FOR A 2017 SPYDER RT SE6, COLD WEATHER STARTING BELOW 40 DEGREES F

[StevenQ]

I am looking for any suggestions on getting my chariot started when the temps go below 35-40 degrees up here in CT. I have heated gear & try to ride year round, conditions permitting. I use a battery tender junior at all times when parked in my garage (not heated). Sometimes in the upper 30's, low 40's, I can work at getting it started. But it sure is stubborn. I have used a light bulb under the engine in my garage, and that works. But if it is parked for a long period time (no engine heat remaining), and I am not at home, I don't relish getting stuck with it not starting.
I have only had this bike for a year, and am looking for ideas/suggestions from all of you that have had a lot more time with the 1338 cc engine.
Thanks.
PS: I just had the oil changed to the can am oil winter grade- 0W40 full synthetic.

[Bob Denman]

Just keep it on the Battery Tender until it's stab to poke the starter button: there's nothing else you can do to the bike.
Just make sure that you keep yourself warm... It's no fun riding when your eyeballs are rattling, around because of all the vibrations from your chattering teeth!

[BajaRon]

I am surprised you're having trouble. 30 degrees isn't all that cold.

[ThreeWheels]

Just ride it, and let me know when you go out.
Maybe I'll join you.
40 °F is a piece of cake.
I routinely go out at least once a month, even in winter.

[Bob Denman]

40 degrees is pretty easy...
I've ridden with the temperatures down in the twenties; but I park the bike when they start salting and brining the roads.

[4 MARIE]

my RT starts just fine in Arctic weather. I winterize with treated fuel that is ran down through the injectors.

Battery Tender plugged in. It's fuel injected, it knows how to start. Do you have to give your car CPR to start just because it's cold ?

[StevenQ]

Thanks for all the replies. U guys are absolutely right, 30 degrees isn't all that cold. When I had my Kawasaki Vulcan 900, I rode down to 11-12 degrees, with my heated outfit. But the Spyder, which I bought new last October 2017, has consistently given me fits when it starts to get cold. The starter cranks over, then it cuts out. It does this over and over and over, until it either starts or that orange engine icon comes on the dash. Very frustrating.

[Bob Denman]

You've got a 1330, so it should have plenty of charging capacity...
Are you sure that your fuel is okay?
How about the plugs?
and the fuel filter?

[StevenQ]

Good afternoon: Thanks for the reply. Back in 1963-1965, I was stationed at McConnell AFB, Wichita, KS. I am curious as to what you treat your fuel with. Have a good day.
StevenQ
Retired military

[BajaRon]

You might want to look into getting straight gasoline instead of ethanol. That might be all it needs to be happy in the winter. Though I still think there might be something more going on here. Try some fuel treatment to 1- get all the moisture out of your tank and 2- clean out the fuel system (especially injectors). I like SeaFoam. But there are other products that will also give you good results.

Your Spyder should fire off with no problem well below 30 degrees if everything is right. Especially running 0w-40 weight oil.

[Chupaca]

What exactly is it doing...? Slow turning over or slow firing up..? If charged up you should not have a problem cranking the engine. But these would be different problems to look at...

[R FUN]

Snowmobiles with the same battery and same engines start at well below 0 with no problems.
Roger

[Bob Denman]

There seems to be something happening with the O.P's. bike...
If you're concerned about the cold oil in the tank: can you rig up some heat tape on it?

[tibadoe]

................The starter cranks over, then it cuts out. It does this over and over and over, until it either starts or that orange engine icon comes on the dash. Very frustrating.

Are you sure the battery is still in top working order. Even when on a tender a battery, one that is going south will not get a good saturation charge. Check voltage and load test battery. If it fails, a new battery will be needed.

[woods]

Are you sure the battery is still in top working order. Even when on a tender a battery, one that is going south will not get a good saturation charge. Check voltage and load test battery. If it fails, a new battery will be needed.

Starter should not be cutting out on it's own.I would suspect either a bad battery or a poor connection.

[UtahPete]

Thanks for all the replies. U guys are absolutely right, 30 degrees isn't all that cold. When I had my Kawasaki Vulcan 900, I rode down to 11-12 degrees, with my heated outfit. But the Spyder, which I bought new last October 2017, has consistently given me fits when it starts to get cold. The starter cranks over, then it cuts out. It does this over and over and over, until it either starts or that orange engine icon comes on the dash. Very frustrating.

It's under warranty. Take it to the dealer.

[SpyderConvert]

Just a thought, are you disconnecting the battery tender before you try to start the engine? Not disconnecting the tender may well have caused damage to the tender and limit or disable its ability to maintain the battery. JMHO

[StevenQ]

Y'all have been great with your responses. All of this started last year, when it started getting colder. It was brand new when I received it the beginning of last November 2017. Told the dealer about it, and they suggested going to their "winter oil"- 0W40 full synthetic. This didn't help it very much. Prior to buying the Spyder, I had been on 2 wheels for over 40 years, with virtually no problems during the winter months. Thank you SpyderConvert for the Battery Tender info. Up until recently, I always disconnected the tender before starting. But the problem has been going on long before this. I will probably be taking the bike in to the dealer, to get this all sorted out. It shouldn't be the fuel. I do run only 93 octane gas, and it has never sat for months without being run. At the most, several weeks when the weather and roads did not permit my riding. I plan on telling the dealer about all the 16 responses to my thread, which concluded that this should not be happening, just because it has gotten cold.
Thanks for your support.
StevenQ

[JayBros]

The second winter I had my '14 it developed a problem wherein the battery would crank a few times very slowly and then nothing. Bike was always on a tender like OP's and wx was routinely in mid-low thirties. I could go through this cycle two or three times befor the bike would finally catch and start. Took battery to dealer for load check and it was OK, good readout. Reinstalled paying particular care to ensure terminals were good and tight. Same stutter start crap. Took bike to dealer and told them they could have it for a week since I had schedule that precluded any riding. Asked them to only check terminals. They left bike in unheated storage warehouse for week, brought it out, checked terminals, found 'em tight started bike on first try, and it's been doing so ever since. Go figure.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Just a thought, are you disconnecting the battery tender before you try to start the engine? Not disconnecting the tender may well have caused damage to the tender and limit or disable its ability to maintain the battery. JMHO

I agree, my Odyssey battery maintainer - STATES - do NOT leave maintainer attached when starting ………. Mike

[Easy Rider]

I am surprised you're having trouble. 30 degrees isn't all that cold.

Me too.
It might mean that your battery is weak, meaning it isn't taking a full charge.

BUT....what exactly are you doing to start it ?
You should NOT open the throttle at all.
You should let it crank for 5 to 10 seconds before pausing.

If it sounds like the engine is turning over really slow, you definitely should have the battery tested.
The dealer could have neglected your battery for up to a year before you bought it.

You don't have any additives in the gas, do you ??

I know some people will find this "blasphemy" but regular grade gas might start better than premium in the cold.

Edit: Now that I have read ALL of the posts.................

The starter cranks over, then it cuts out. It does this over and over and over,

Definitely a case of: "loose" connection on one of the battery cables OR bad battery.
You don't have any extra electrical accessories that come on BEFORE the engine starts, do you ??

P.S. The battery is NOT a warranty item......unless you have a really good dealer.

[StevenQ]

Thank you Easy Rider. The only accessory that is plugged in is the Garmin for that bike. I could try disconnecting the Garmin, to see what happens. It seems to crank over well enough, but cuts out. I am not sure of how long it cranks, but probably not more than 10 seconds. Also, I am sure the terminals are secure, as I recently added another lead to heat my lady friend's jacket. The 2 leads just sit there with no draw on them. I snugged the leads on the battery sufficiently, as I had been an aircraft & engine mechanic, for over 30 years, plus working on cars and my bikes. Like I said, if nothing else seems to help the situation, it will be going back to the dealer. I just had the dealer change the oil, etc., & had them check the bike out, but it was warmer then.
Thank you again:
StevenQ

[Easy Rider]

I could try disconnecting the Garmin, to see what happens. It seems to crank over well enough, but cuts out. I am not sure of how long it cranks, but probably not more than 10 seconds.

No, almost impossible that the Garmin would have anything to do with this problem. It doesn't draw enough power.


BUT.....the cranking time is kind of important. 10 seconds is a LONG time for a modern engine to crank without firing.
Maybe there is a built-in timed cutoff to keep from burning out the starter.

I think you need a shop visit......at a time when it is still COLD out.

Do you NOT have a voltmeter ? If not, you probably should get one.
A perfectly adequate one can be had for $20 or less.
Even the little red ones from Harbor Freight are good enough.

[StevenQ]

Yesterday I took the leads off the battery, cleaned the terminals & the lead connectors. They all looked good, but I cleaned them anyway. I was able to get the bike started, but it was almost 40 degrees. Reconnected my battery tender junior before leaving the bike (in garage). This morning it was just below 30 degrees. With the brake turned off & the fog lights turned off, I took Bob Denman's suggestion & did brief starts, - not long enough for the starter to cut out. After about 4 or 5 stabs, the bike came to life. That was a very nice sound, even with a stock muffler. Now I feel more confident about being able to ride as the weather gets colder.
Riding in the cold was never a problem, it was just getting the bike to start. For years I have used the "Hot Wired" jacket liner & the heated gloves, from Cycle Gear. They have kept me nice & warm, even down to 10 degrees. For those of you that don't put their bike away until spring, happy riding.

[Easy Rider]

I took Bob Denman's suggestion & did brief starts, - not long enough for the starter to cut out. After about 4 or 5 stabs, the bike came to life.

Now you have a false sense of security.

That kind of procedure should NOT be necessary.......and it is likely that it will fail on you sometime soon.

It sounds like the "coolant temperature sensor" is not working right to richen the mixture like a choke did with a carb.

I think it was mentioned before that you need to test your battery and the charging voltage on your tender too.

You have applied a band aid to a gun shot wound.
It will start to bleed again eventually.