Weird question: Convert an SE5 into a manual shift? A tale of woe...

[stevencovert]

Hi all! As you eat your turkey I have weird things for you to mull over

I am at my wits end trying to figure out why my 2008GS 998cc SE5 sticks in gear (any) and sometimes shifts into neutral when going from 2nd to 3rd. The clutch feels fine, pulls great, easily does a burnout. When running normal I don't feel anything, shifts solid, no slipping. Has a new gearbox position sensor, bajaRon plugs & wires, throttle sensor, fresh oil change with LaMonsters kit, paddle shifter (which was fine - has sealed switches in it!!) and probably $500 of other parts trying to fix this!!

Your gonna like this one! It also likes to - I THINK - go into limp mode?? It will get stuck in a gear, and feel like the engine is cutting out like every half second: on - off - on - off, like bwap bwap bwap down the road. It will smooth out a lower RPM, maybe around 3K or less. No codes, no messages. I thought LCD goes orange in limp mode?? I did happen to catch something on the right side CLICKING in time with the engine cutting. Cycling the key cleared it. I looked on cheapcycleparts and found something in a gas line that had a connector, bit looks like a sensor. So put on your thinking caps! Whats on upper right side in the carb area I think that makes a solid fairly loud click?

Did throw codes at random (was running OK at the time)
P0730 - expected as I have a HMF exhaust
P0710 - Trans temperature (but sensor is in cylinder in the coolant??) or I tracked down wrong one
P0730 - Incorrect gear ratio ECM vs TCM. This one was interesting. Still trying to figure what reports speed to the ECM. I was thinking maybe the rear hall effect was too far from the teeth, but I would think there would be a separate code for that. Still might adjust closer anyway

Threw these codes many times over the last few months - but not when the bike went buts. I'm trying to put all this together in my head, and just get a headache. Something mechanical that isn't checked by a computer? A sensor (all sensors go to a computer though!). I'm about thinking buying a wrecked bike and wholesale swap out the motor or trans. I'll never get close to what I paid for it, plus parts. Even with a great deal at the time, with the Ryker out I think all used GS/RS just lost $2K or so in value.

With no codes showing when any of this happens, I'm at a loss. So now wondering if maybe something like the electric shifter unit is weak, or something in that series.
The gear is correct on the LCD, maybe took to long, or

I see the gearshift sticking out, so I wondered if it's possible to rip out all the auto shift stuff and put in a manual system. Any ideas? Haven't seen anyone do this on any forum!


Steve

[ARtraveler]

You have given us on the site a LOT to think about. I am not mechanical so will have to sit back and watch this one.

There ARE some mechanical genius's on board, and hopefully they can come up with a solution for you. I believe there are some who have made a manual into a SE. So what you are contemplating may be doable.

[kep-up]

Paddle shifter; no matter that it has sealed switches. the contacts go bad. If you have replaced the paddle shifter assembly, I would suspect that a connection in the wiring harness is faulty. Or perhaps you got a defective assembly. Or did you take a shortcut during the assembly installation?

[stevencovert]

No shortcuts installing paddle shifter. Sprayed connector with contact cleaner. Can hear the nice clicks. Whatever is happening is ignoring the paddle shifter input for some reason.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Yes, the transmission itself is the same, but the software and clutch are different on the SE5. And that’s just for starters. The rear speed sensor reports speed. Seems electronic related, especially if it used to run fine. I wouldn’t rule out a faulty transmission control module (TCM), or harness connector.

[canamjhb]

For one thing, some months ago I posted a picture of a searated stud coming out of my SE transmission wanting to know what it is. Turns out to be where the shift lever for the manual shift attaches to the transmission. One less problem to deal with.....

[Chupaca]

One other place to check would be the gear positioning sensor. The SE does have the ability to shift on its own and may be getting the wrong signal. Also check linkage especially the arm on the shift shaft...

[Bob Denman]

For the time, aggravation and money: sell your bike, and go get the one that has the shifter you want.

[stevencovert]

For the time, aggravation and money: sell your bike, and go get the one that has the shifter you want.

Well I wish! Recent hip replacement $$ blew the new bike fund! Was looking to trade in for an F3 base model. However something new did happen that I caught...

Pulled off the hall effects at rear checking gaps, and found bits of metal stuck to it (magnetic and all), cleaned off. Original gaps in spec. Took out for a ride, and finally noticed something happen when shifting from 2nd to 3rd - the engine RPM went up quite a bit, but not bike speed. Like the clutch slipped. Then stuck in 3rd. No codes on LCD.

It has a fresh LaMonster oil change, not even 100 miles yet. Level is right on the "F". Has 30K miles on it. So now *maybe* that error code I saw about "ECM speed does not match TCM speed" could be the engine RPM not calculating correct for the MPH (in whatever gear). So now I am researching the clutch itself. Is it the same as a manual? Hard to replace? Could it be only certain components in it?

Also thinking of locating the cable for the electric shifter and cycling it to see if it is sticking in the out position. I see you can do this easily with BUDS. I don't know anyone with (a personal) BUDS around me here in VA.

Steve