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Thread: Valve adj

  1. #1
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    Default Valve adj

    2015 st sts bought new have 13k on it running mobil 1 10-40 croch rocket oil, no problems , book says valve adj time i do all svcs myself inc belt tens etc. oil change every 3k, should i ck valve adj or keep rollin?

    Steve

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    Very Active Member GOZFST's Avatar
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    There have been a number of threads about this subject and the consensus seems to be don't worry about it. Many have had them checked at 40,000 and needed no adjustment.
    Bob S

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    Just keep on rolling

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    aka: akspyderman ARtraveler's Avatar
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    YUP! I am one of the valve adjustment beta testers.

    I did a valve check on my 2008 at 10K--before they changed it to 14K. Spent an extra $1K for the service (it's labor intensive). No adjustment needed.

    I did the valve check on my 2010 at 28K. Another $1K spent. No adjustments needed. They failed to put in a new gasket. It leaked over the winter. They had to re-do it on their dime in the spring.

    I am NOT going to do a valve check on my 2011 until at least 50K--if then. So far, at 30K miles no issues or indicators that it needs it.

    In the beginning, it was thought to be overkill by BRP. I and others have also felt that "shady" dealers will charge for the work and not actually do it--because it usually results in a wasted effort. It is a quick $1K to add to the service bill.

    There have been a few who do them religiously regardless. I usually say--its your spyder, its your money. Go for it.

    Just my .02.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium). 6 Spyders, 11 years, 167,000 miles


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    Active Member vindex1963's Avatar
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    Good to hear!!! I did the valve check of my Vstrom and as easy as it is compared to the Spyder was still a PITA!! and the Strom is a shim under bucket also. I did all that work myself and yes, no adjustment needed.
    2012 RT A&C SE5
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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Doning well at 40

    I have 42,000 miles and alls well. I do ryde hard but it still depends. I have a mechanic's stethescope that I use to listen to the valves. Having done many a shim style valve adjustment I have stockpiled shims of various types and sizes...there in lies the problem when doing them yourself and you do need to adjust them. If you don't have a assortment of thicknesses on hand or your at the mercy of the dealer and they may not have them in stock for you though the shop will have them .... you need a friendly tech that will trade with you....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
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    ​2012 RS sm5

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    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    What would be an indicator for needing this done?

    Starting to hear a little more “popping” on deceleration?

    Little more stumble when cold?

    Trying to decide if valve clearance, dirty carb or something else?

    Only at 16K miles, but 6 years.

    .

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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOOPY View Post
    What would be an indicator for needing this done?

    Starting to hear a little more “popping” on deceleration?

    Little more stumble when cold?

    Trying to decide if valve clearance, dirty carb or something else?

    Only at 16K miles, but 6 years.

    .
    Time is not a factor for valve issues - only hours on the engine ….. you don't have a CARB , it's a throttle body, but using a Quality injection cleaner would be my first step ……….if you have V-twin - hoses have been the biggest issue ( and time matters for hoses ). …..good luck ….Mike

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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    I go with Blueknight911 on this. Pull the side panel off on the left side so you can see the throttle bodies. You will see to rubber hoses that come from the MAP sensor. Since these are rubber they are sensitive to time and heat and develop cracks. Easy to remove. Replace with silicone hose of the same diameter and length. You can buy the hose from NAPA in bulk and cut matching the original hose length. Give you plenty extra to share.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SNOOPY View Post
    What would be an indicator for needing this done?

    Starting to hear a little more “popping” on deceleration?

    Little more stumble when cold?

    Trying to decide if valve clearance, dirty carb or something else?

    Only at 16K miles, but 6 years.

    .
    There is no indicator, If you get an indication it is doing damage usually. Generally if you hear something, it is loose which is likely caused by lack of lubrication or defective cam lobes. Generally under normal wear the valves sink into seats, which cause the lash adjustment to reduce (tighter clearance). The shim and bucket is a good system and usually accurate and durable. I personally don't think it would be a good idea do go beyond 30k without inspection and or adjustment under touring conditions. Just my .02c

  11. #11
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sputter View Post
    There is no indicator, If you get an indication it is doing damage usually. Generally if you hear something, it is loose which is likely caused by lack of lubrication or defective cam lobes. Generally under normal wear the valves sink into seats, which cause the lash adjustment to reduce (tighter clearance). The shim and bucket is a good system and usually accurate and durable. I personally don't think it would be a good idea do go beyond 30k without inspection and or adjustment under touring conditions. Just my .02c
    Spyderjockey checked His valves at 75,000 mi and they didn't need adjustment …… if you have the ability to check them yourself , do it ..… but to pay $650.00 for a dealer to CLAIM they did it, is well ………… JMHO …. Mike

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    aka: akspyderman ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sputter View Post
    There is no indicator, If you get an indication it is doing damage usually. Generally if you hear something, it is loose which is likely caused by lack of lubrication or defective cam lobes. Generally under normal wear the valves sink into seats, which cause the lash adjustment to reduce (tighter clearance). The shim and bucket is a good system and usually accurate and durable. I personally don't think it would be a good idea do go beyond 30k without inspection and or adjustment under touring conditions. Just my .02c
    I waited until 28K on my 2010. No adjustment was required. Cost me $1K to find that out.
    They also botched the job. Did not put in fresh gaskets. They had to re-do the job on their dime in the spring.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium). 6 Spyders, 11 years, 167,000 miles


  13. #13
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Ride, Smile and Enjoy! Valves will be just fine.
    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  14. #14
    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Time is not a factor for valve issues - only hours on the engine ….. you don't have a CARB , it's a throttle body, but using a Quality injection cleaner would be my first step ……….if you have V-twin - hoses have been the biggest issue ( and time matters for hoses ). …..good luck ….Mike

    Yeah, meant throttle bodies. And I did replace the hoses a couple years ago, think I got them from BajaRon.


    Still wondering why I think I hear a little extra “popping” than I’ve heard in the past.... maybe exhaust needing repacking? Lol

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    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Snoopy,

    When was your fuel filter last replaced? If never than I would start by replacing that. Also check your air filter to see if that is needing to be replaced.
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    Very Active Member SNOOPY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    Snoopy,

    When was your fuel filter last replaced? If never than I would start by replacing that. Also check your air filter to see if that is needing to be replaced.

    We have a fuel filter? Lol I’ll check that thanks.

    I have the aftermarket filter that was made by a member here. I’ll double check that too. Thanks

    .

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