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  1. #1
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    Default Looking for confidence in the curves...

    Hi folks,
    Well, its been a week or so with the new F3S and I've ridden it around 150 miles or so. Haven't had it on the interstate yet but I've briefly had it up to 65 MPH and, other than the wind (no windshield) I'm getting more and more used to traveling at speed. What'e bothering me is the curves. More specifically, the gradual higher speed variety. There are several roads on the way to work that are very twisty (25-35 MPH) speed limit and, after several repetitions those are no problem. What seems to be causing me an issue are the higher speed (45-50 MPH) speed limit curves. I just can't seem to bring myself to take these at the posted limit, always have to slow down to well under. For some reason this seems to be worse on right hand curves (probably psychological). I've done a thread search and come up with mostly tire pressure, laser alignment, sway bar etc but I don't believe this to be the case as the bike does feel rock-solid and track perfectly straight and doesn't wander at all. The issue at hand appears to me me (or my mind, or IN my mind). So, how does one overcome the fear of tipping this thing over on high speed (albeit gentle) curves?

    Just an FYI-this is my first open-air vehicle of any kind at all, no previous two-wheel experience so no countersteering to "un-learn".

    Thanks in advance...
    Frank
    2018 F3S , Black

  2. #2
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    Default

    Are you familiar with riding ATVs?
    They are about the most similar to the Spyder; when it comes to cornering technique.
    Lean in and forward, and you'll be fine.
    Don't be in a rush to tackle high speeds!
    There IS a learning curve. Give yourself time, and work your way up at your own pace.
    Good luck!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Time at the wheel....

    It takes time and some more ryding. Rule of thumb is 300 to 500 miles to get comfortable but does vary. The relaxed grip and some more freeway speed would help you along. As you get there you will see if you feel you need any of those items you mentioned... have fun with it ...
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  4. #4
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    Give it time and don't push it. It will come to you.

    It is important to practice the basics.

    Look through the turn, not at it. Keep your focus down the road and not close to the front of the Spyder.

    Understand that you need to brake BEFORE entering the turn. Approach the curve near the outer edge, not the inside edge which is very dangerous at speed. Then apex (mid curve if possible) and then accelerate out while drifting back to the outside edge once again (a reverse of how you came into the turn). Most people try to apex too soon, which can really mess up an otherwise well executed maneuver.

    These actions are not necessarily natural and, for most of us, take some practice to master.

    Good luck!

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  5. #5
    Active Member SpyderChris's Avatar
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    Default Curve speed

    I'm only a few hundred miles ahead of you with the same Spyder and same lack of motorcycle experience, so hopefully I can help. I expect that you are correct that the issue is in your mind and that you aren't coming anywhere close to tipping it over. I suspect that you *feel* like it is tipping over because you're sitting more upright than you should be. This is going to cause you to feel the g-forces on the upper half of your body more and you'll feel like your body is going to tip over (even if the Spyder is firmly planted on the pavement). If you lean into the curve the g-forces are more in line with your body and instead of pushing you off of the Spyder you will be pushed into the Spyder.

    Find a road that has a few of these 40 mph curves and practice. Overly exaggerate your leaning to make sure that you are intentional about it.

    And like others have said, take your time. You don't need to be an expert after only a few hundred miles. I had 600 miles on mine before I took it on an interstate. Interstates are designed for getting from point A to point B as quickly as possible, and that's not usually the goal when ryding a Spyder anyhow

    BTW, congrats on the new toy!
    2017 F3 , Blue

  6. #6
    Active Member Spyder601's Avatar
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    This is all great advice. I recall this being an issue for me when I first started ryding. Take your time and try throttling up out of the curve as that helps to straighten out. Time in the saddle is the only way to get over the feeling as it is mostly the G-forces that you are feeling. What helped me was also applying pressure to the foot on the outside of the curve as I leaned into it. anyway stay at it and you soon will be handling the curves at posted speed limits!

    Congrats on the new ryde!
    Last edited by Spyder601; 09-25-2018 at 09:49 AM.
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  7. #7
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    Lean into the curve lining your head up over your arm on the inside of the curve, like you were going to kiss the top of your wrist. Also push down with your outside leg.

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  8. #8
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Like skiing--------

    I do this:


    Pressure on the outside foot ( even moving the foot to the outer edge of the floorboard )

    Touch the inside knee to the " tank".

    Bend the inside elbow to pull your body down a bit and inside the turn radius ( use you core muscles )

    Cha, Cha, Cha .

    It becomes natural very quickly---- turning becomes a bit more sporty but you're not pulled at all by centripetal force.

    Lew L

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    " Centrifugal force is not a real force. It is an inertial force established so that Newtonian laws are valid when observing motion in an accelerated frame of reference. Centripetal force is the force that an object feels when is in a circular motion."
    Last edited by Lew L; 09-24-2018 at 12:39 PM.
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  9. #9
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    Default

    Thanks so much for the info so far folks.
    I did take the MSF basic rider course on the Spyder a few weekends ago but, of course, that was all low-speed riding. Up to now, no one has ever offered any really specific instruction on body placement (thanks SpyderAnn and others). I'll give this a try on the way home and see how it goes.
    So, push down on outside peg, line up head over inside forearm and inside knee toward tank... is that correct?
    2018 F3S , Black

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Lew L's Avatar
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by frj322 View Post
    Thanks so much for the info so far folks.
    I did take the MSF basic rider course on the Spyder a few weekends ago but, of course, that was all low-speed riding. Up to now, no one has ever offered any really specific instruction on body placement (thanks SpyderAnn and others). I'll give this a try on the way home and see how it goes.
    So, push down on outside peg, line up head over inside forearm and inside knee toward tank... is that correct?


    Yes------- Most of us had to overcome " counter steering" of our long experience with 2 wheels. But " hanging off" on a sport bike gave some of the right moves.

    Lew L
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Default

    Early advice is right on. Lean into the curve, plant the outside foot and grip the tank with the legs. All will help to reduce the "g's."

    Overcontrol is another issue. Pretend there are eggs between the hands and the bars. Don't break the eggs. A slight push/pull on the steering.

    Speed: if you have to brake going into the turn--you are probably going a bit fast. Best to be able to accelerate during curves.

    I can go 20 + posted (if I want to) and not cross the center line. Have NEVER had the nanny kick in to tell me I am to fast. Never had the wheels leave the ground when doing the twisties.

    It's all about practice, practice, practice. And...that can be a lot of fun.

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  12. #12
    Very Active Member Mazo EMS2's Avatar
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    Default

    Lean "in" and "forward"
    Support your weight with the outside foot
    Keep your eyes as far forward as possible. Don't let yourself look at where you "are" but rather where you wanna go
    Push and pull equally with your hands, with a light grip

    The Spyder will "roll" a bit in the curves, let it....the wheels don't lean like two wheelers so you have to steer it.
    Make sure your front tire pressures are equal too.

    you'll do fine, just let it come to you with practice
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    All posts above are excellent advice, based on that knowledge, think it threw a few times in your comfort zone but as you get some miles, dont over think it, let your body find the correct balance and learn relax into your ryde. Nothing is better than repetition and muscle memory. When you get in an unexpected situation, you want to get to the point of high speed reaction. Your body is equipt to react at speed. So is your Spyder. It can make moves that will startle you. Also dont ever go any faster than your angel can fly.
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  14. #14
    Active Member Jarred's Avatar
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    Default 500-750 Miles, Big difference

    After 500 miles it felt a lot better, after 750 I noticed a big difference. After 2k miles, you’ll be as comfortable as you are in your car.
    Enjoy those miles and good luck.

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  15. #15
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    Default yee haa this is fun

    Quote Originally Posted by frj322 View Post
    Hi folks,
    Well, its been a week or so with the new F3S and I've ridden it around 150 miles or so. Haven't had it on the interstate yet but I've briefly had it up to 65 MPH and, other than the wind (no windshield) I'm getting more and more used to traveling at speed. What'e bothering me is the curves. More specifically, the gradual higher speed variety. There are several roads on the way to work that are very twisty (25-35 MPH) speed limit and, after several repetitions those are no problem. What seems to be causing me an issue are the higher speed (45-50 MPH) speed limit curves. I just can't seem to bring myself to take these at the posted limit, always have to slow down to well under. For some reason this seems to be worse on right hand curves (probably psychological). I've done a thread search and come up with mostly tire pressure, laser alignment, sway bar etc but I don't believe this to be the case as the bike does feel rock-solid and track perfectly straight and doesn't wander at all. The issue at hand appears to me me (or my mind, or IN my mind). So, how does one overcome the fear of tipping this thing over on high speed (albeit gentle) curves?

    Just an FYI-this is my first open-air vehicle of any kind at all, no previous two-wheel experience so no countersteering to "un-learn".

    Thanks in advance...
    Frank
    I traded my 2013 RTS for an 18 f3 and do not regret anything, an F3 is on rails, powering out of a corner is the best.
    Your F3 is your trusted friend so just relax and enjoy.
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  16. #16
    Very Active Member MRH's Avatar
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    I was terrified just doing the posted speed in the curves at the beginning. You can, of course, go much faster than what the signs "suggest", but it will just take time to feel comfortable with it.

    Take your time, and realize this is a very normal feeling in the beginning. You'll get there.

    Also, it can help to go with another Spyder rider leading, because you'll be able to see that the machine can handle the curve at a given speed before you take it.
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  17. #17
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    One of the biggest things that helped with higher speed cornering on my F3S other than the Baja Ron Ronbar was to get an inexpensive pair of Sypderpops foam "Grip Puppies" that allowed the rather small grips to become plusher and larger. The foam grips allow me to exert less force per square inch on the palms and fingers of my hands when applying steering forces and this allowed me to increase my finesse of the steering controls almost instantaneously after the simple installation of the foam grips.

  18. #18
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    Default How do you get to Carnegie Hall ?

    Practice. It takes practice, all at your own time. Relax Enjoy the ride. It will just click one day. Don't sell yourself short.

  19. #19
    Very Active Member 4 MARIE's Avatar
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    I want to give you "my take" before I read everyone else's response.
    Then look back and see who agrees.

    Centrifugal force tries to throw you to the outside of a curve, making you tend to run wide, or
    feel "tippy". YOU.. so by a little weight shift to the inside of the curve, like a lean, or in the case of
    a big guy like me, I can do a little head n shoulders move to the inside, You will feel more planted
    and can negotiate turns more rapidly..

    Your F3 is a lot lower in the seat than the RT, so any weight transfer you do will give even
    bigger results. Also, some folks recommend weighting, or pushing down on the outside peg
    or floorboard. But remember, ryde, ryde, ryde. Don't get in over your head and practice safely.
    Flatlander, Navy Veteran, Widower
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  20. #20
    Very Active Member canamjhb's Avatar
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    The only thing I would add to the advice given is to pull in the inside corner handlebar more than pushing on the outside. For example, when turning right, pull the right side grip towards you rather than pushing the left one. Doing this keeps weight towards the lower center of gravity as you corner. At one time, I was told to do just the opposite and it messed me up. After I started pulling the inside grip, corners became much easier.
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  21. #21
    Active Member Kiry's Avatar
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    Default

    As of May of this year, I was also a new rider. It does get easier. Exactly as these folks say, lean and brace. Makes a huge difference. Some practice helps, took me a bit to get comfortable with the approach and speed, and with time it does get better.

    I'm at 3500 miles now, and I'm not a pro, but I'm a heck of a lot more comfortable with the bike and the path than < 500 miles for sure.

    I call it dancing by the way. When I'm driving my sciatic acts up, but it never does on my bike. I think because I"m moving across it as I'm adapting to the road.

    Enjoy!!! Congrats on the ride!
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  22. #22
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    Default Random thoughts

    1. All the previous advice is good advice.
    2. I also had a major problem with right curves, and was not comfortable even after 4500 miles. I got a laser alignment and it was a huge help. The alignment also cured a major problem I had with "bump steer" where one wheel hits a bump, common for some reason on some roads near my house.
    3. After some experimentation I am convinced hand position makes a huge difference, and I am undecided between getting handlebar risers versus a new handlebar. Rox risers are the cheapest way to go, and I can install them myself, but may interfere with my cell phone holder from LaMonster if I ever buy a large phone.

  23. #23
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    Default

    Hi folks,
    Thanks so much for all the replies and advice!
    So, I rode home last night, making sure to at least weight the outside pegs for sure. Tried my best to over-exaggerate the lean and line up my head with the inside arm and it did feel much better. It felt stable at least. I'm not really sure what happened with my knees (this is a LOT to process at once for sure). It did feel better for me this way and I'm getting more confident, still slightly shaken when I got home but I think that was from the wind more than anything else. Again, these are all brand-new sensations for me as I have absolutely NO previous motorcycle or ATV experience whatsoever. The last time I rode anything at all like this I was a teenager (49 now) and it was one of the old Honda 3 wheelers. I got VERY good at tipping that thing over...
    2018 F3S , Black

  24. #24
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    Glad to hear that you're already making good progress!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  25. #25
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    Lol, I wouldn't say its good but it is slightly less terrifying!
    2018 F3S , Black

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