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    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
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    Default RT 1330 Spark plug changeout. Part 1

    Here's a few photos and tips about the &%%$#^^ job of changing the spark plugs on the RT 1330. I was well into the process before I thought to take any photos. Sorry.

    I had questions about the tightening torque so I went to the NGK web site. I found there that the design lifetime of the OEM plugs is 100,000 miles! They may fire more often in a 1330 than a Honda car engine, but still I don't see why BRP recommends changing them out at 28,000 miles. I don't expect to ever change mine again!!

    First, consider removing the frunk. I can't say that it makes the job easier or not, other than it does get the air intake hose out of the way. I'd suggest you start the process and if it looks like removing the frunk will make it easier, then do it. I took the frunk off because I was changing the spark plugs and installing LED fog lights at the same time.

    Remove the mirrors, middle side panels, and the acoustic panels. I had the headlight trim off also but I don't think you have to remove it to change the plugs. I replaced my LED headlights at the same time as the other work.

    Disconnect the air intake hose from the first air box and remove the air cleaner.

    Remove hose and cleaner.jpg

    Remove the screws that hold both air cleaner boxes in place.

    Remove the support bar. There's one screw at each end. Turning it 90° will make it a bit easier to work loose from the air box tabs.

    Support bar.jpg

    Remove the ring that holds the central air intake adapter to the air cleaner box. You have to reach through the air cleaner hole. On reinstall make sure the arrow points down. I used silicone spray to get the ring to turn and lock.

    Central air intake adapter ring.jpg

    Now comes the toughy! The air cleaner box has to be pulled out and it is a TIGHT fit. Be careful, pull hard, and it'll come. It goes back in easier. Go figure!

    I don't have a pic but the central air intake adapter (hose) is connected to the second air box with a plastic hose clamp. Cut it to remove the adapter.

    Now go to the right side. You have to get the conglomeration of harnesses and cable out of the way. The harness connector block will slip loose off the frame. Cut cable ties as necessary. I disconnected several connectors to move the harnesses out of the way more.

    Harnesses and cable.jpg

    Remove the clamp and hose shown here. The hose comes out with the manifold intake adapter hose.

    recirc hose.jpg
    Last edited by IdahoMtnSpyder; 09-03-2018 at 12:56 AM.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

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