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  1. #26
    Active Member tibadoe's Avatar
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    Already have Shell Rotella T-6 on my list.
    ----
    Joe

    2023 F3

  2. #27
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    So let me ask, which machine do you ride most and why. Thanks.

  3. #28
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    YES, use it always, from Walmart. NO clutch problems....

  4. #29
    Active Member 007james's Avatar
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    I have used Full Synthetic Mobil One 10W-40 4T Motorcycle Racing Oil since my 3000 first Service. Doc Humphrey used it in his 2014 RT, so I followed his choice. I don’t care about the cost of the oil, considering 10,000 miles between oil changes. But the Reviews on this Oil are excellent, and it is recommended for Vehicles that share the same oil in tne engine and Tranny.
    2016 RT Limited , Black & Lava Bronze

  5. #30
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    Shell Rotella T-6 Always !

  6. #31
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandman53 View Post
    Shell Rotella T-6 Always !
    Rotella has just repeated last years incredible deal ….. someone posted a LINK earlier …… Mike ..Find my " Rotella Oil Rebate " thread...… and look @ post #9 for the LINK

  7. #32
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge707 View Post
    Valvoline 10w40 Synthetic Motorcycle oil from Walmart at $6.75 a quart. Most important is Using a JASO M2 Rating and Not just Jaso . Unless you use BRP oil.
    Valvoline standard 10W40 motorcycle oil (excellent wet clutch protection) JASO MA2 API SL High Temp-High RPM's $4.85/qt
    Ryan Schnitz Racing--1st street bike to get into 6.90 1/4 mile Guinness Book record holder doesn't run synthetic.
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

  8. #33
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Shell Rotella 5/40 T6 synthetic. I have bought so much of this oil on sale that I'll have over 100,000 miles on the Spyder before I use it all up. The sale Mike mentions earlier is a great sale, take advantage.

    The why is that it is an excellent oil it is readily available (Walmart) and it is cheap. I change it out every 4500 miles so I can't see putting in an expensive oil.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

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    2012 Spyder RT L , Baja Ron Plugs and wires Lava Bronze

  9. #34
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike oil. The reason why, in a very complete test of many oils, the Mobil 1 10w40 Sportbike oil was ranked as number 2 best motorcycle oil behind very expensive Motul race oil, and the Mobil was higher rated than the Rotella and other oils mentioned here.

    The test, for unknown reasons does not compare Amsoil, so there is no means to praise nor condemn it.

    Additionally, others here have had the Mobil 1 from their Spyders tested by labs and the results are excellent.

    Plus, from a practical point, the Spyder shifts better and the clutch is smoother compared to BRP oil.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. White View Post
    I use whatever my neighbor has in his garage when it is time to change my oil.
    Mr. I see you have two trikes, which one do you ride most often?

  11. #36
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    I just switched to Lamonster oil from Amsoil and could feel a vast improvement.
    2017 F3 Limited
    2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by AY4B View Post
    I just switched to Lamonster oil from Amsoil and could feel a vast improvement.
    Would you please comment more on its improvements? Thanks, cueman

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbillone View Post
    Mr. I see you have two trikes, which one do you ride most often?
    Interesting reply, guess that's a funny icon, I thought it was a good question, maybe not. Thanks for the response, I see you've given it a lot of thought.

  14. #39
    Active Member deer30084's Avatar
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    Why use 10W40 when the manual says to use 5W40? It cracks me up when people say they use it with "no issues." Maybe years down the road the 2nd or 3rd owner will experience the "issues."
    John F.
    Tallahassee, FL

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  15. #40
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deer30084 View Post
    Why use 10W40 when the manual says to use 5W40? It cracks me up when people say they use it with "no issues." Maybe years down the road the 2nd or 3rd owner will experience the "issues."
    What do you think ….. is the difference between 5w and 10w ?????? …. Mike

  16. #41
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deer30084 View Post
    Why use 10W40 when the manual says to use 5W40? It cracks me up when people say they use it with "no issues." Maybe years down the road the 2nd or 3rd owner will experience the "issues."
    There are actually a number of good reasons to use 10w-40 as opposed to a 5w-40.

    1- The larger the gap between the low number and the high number, the less stable an oil is. If you are using a mineral oil with an additive package (which is what most 'Synthetic' labeled motor oils are), it takes more additive to get this wider spread. Additives are there to protect the weaker mineral oil molecules from shearing and other forces which break the oil molecules down and degrade their lubricating properties. Additives are not lubricants, and they do break down. Once these protective additives start to go away, the weak mineral oil molecules tend to lose integrity quickly. This is why the BRP oils tend to shear down to 20 weight at around 5,000 miles according to the oil analysis testing we've seen.

    2- The low number of these 2 is only designed to give a relative viscosity at cold start-up. While cold start-up viscosity is important, it only needs to be thin enough to deliver adequate lubrication to vital parts during this very short period of time. If you are storing your Spyder in sub-zero temperatures, then a 5w oil would certainly be advantageous. However, it is probably a very rare Spyder which ever sees this kind of cold start-up temperature. This means that you are sacrificing at least some stability for a cold start-up viscosity that you will never need.

    It is also interesting to note that true synthetic oils like Amsoil, Schaeffer, etc., being engineered at the molecular level during the refinement process have much stronger molecules. This is why they are able to achieve multiple viscosities and are inherently more stable and able to resist shearing and other destructive environments with minimal additives. We consistantly see Amsoil tests coming back in the low to mid 30's at 10k as opposed to BRP and other oils at 20w at the same mileage.

    If you really want to know what is going on with your oil, have it tested. It's easy and not that expensive. And then you don't have to take someone else's word for it. But be prepared. The results may surprise you.

    People truly do get personally invested in their brand and the oil debate will certainly rage on. I do not expect that my 2 cents will change anything. But it is always an interesting discussion.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 02-21-2019 at 11:45 AM.
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  17. #42
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    Another vote for Amsoil 10W40. But I have used Royal Purple as well. I think any good synthetic (with the right specs)is a wise choice. Just my 2 cents!
    2012 RT , stock Lava Bronze

  18. #43
    Active Member deer30084's Avatar
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    Mike: Viscosity I suppose. I'm no oil expert.
    John F.
    Tallahassee, FL

    2015 Spyder F3 SE6, black
    BRP Driver/passenger Footboards
    BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest
    Blue Ridge Windshield
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    H4 LED Headlights
    F3 LED Fog Light Kit, LED Amber Halo Ring Kit, LED Tail Lights, F3 Rear run/brake/turn LEDs
    Easy Brackets
    Leatherworks, Inc. 120 Special Slight Angle Saddlebags
    Custom Dynamics Front Mud Flap LED lights, Street Magic Front Fender Tips, Double Feature Lens
    2-up rear shock
    Idler pulley kit

  19. #44
    Active Member vindex1963's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deer30084 View Post
    Why use 10W40 when the manual says to use 5W40? It cracks me up when people say they use it with "no issues." Maybe years down the road the 2nd or 3rd owner will experience the "issues."
    Probably not, todays oils are excellent and if you use the correct weight and change it accordingly all JASO oils will be fine. People buy into the hype instead of the facts and the fact is "Name brand, wet clutch compatible. BAM good to go". My Uncle had an old 60's Galaxy 500 that ran 300,000+ miles before the frame rusted and broke in the 1970's running Quaker State oil without "issues". Turns out with those miles he was, in a way the 2nd, 3rd and maybe 4th owner.
    2012 RT A&C SE5
    2015 Victory Cross Country (Dyno tuned 118hp 116tq)
    2006 Triumph Rocket Dyno tuned 140hp 154tq)

  20. #45
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vindex1963 View Post
    Probably not, todays oils are excellent and if you use the correct weight and change it accordingly all JASO oils will be fine. People buy into the hype instead of the facts and the fact is "Name brand, wet clutch compatible. BAM good to go". My Uncle had an old 60's Galaxy 500 that ran 300,000+ miles before the frame rusted and broke in the 1970's running Quaker State oil without "issues". Turns out with those miles he was, in a way the 2nd, 3rd and maybe 4th owner.
    Not necessarily true. There are JASO MA2 oils out there that will slip the clutch on a 998 because of additives not conducive to this clutch. It is important for different model Spyder owners to know what specific needs their Spyder has and not assume that all Spyders are created equal. The 1330, on the other hand, is engineered to have a much more tolerant clutch mechanism and will work fine with lubricants that would slip the clutch on a 998.
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  21. #46
    Active Member vindex1963's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BajaRon View Post
    Not necessarily true. There are JASO MA2 oils out there that will slip the clutch on a 998 because of additives not conducive to this clutch. It is important for different model Spyder owners to know what specific needs their Spyder has and not assume that all Spyders are created equal. The 1330, on the other hand, is engineered to have a much more tolerant clutch mechanism and will work fine with lubricants that would slip the clutch on a 998.
    Examples?
    2012 RT A&C SE5
    2015 Victory Cross Country (Dyno tuned 118hp 116tq)
    2006 Triumph Rocket Dyno tuned 140hp 154tq)

  22. #47
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deer30084 View Post
    Mike: Viscosity I suppose. I'm no oil expert.
    If you haven't read BAJARON's post above - it is in your best interest to do so ….. PS I use 10/40 synthetic ….. Mike

  23. #48
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    [SIZE
    OIL --we don't need no stinking OIL. We run em till they quit then use em for a boat anchor!

    By the way what kind of tires youse guys using?



    Jack[/SIZE]
    All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
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  24. #49
    Active Member 007james's Avatar
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    How many PSI do you run your Oil at,....and what Viscosity do you put in your tires? 🤓
    007James

    Quote Originally Posted by jaherbst View Post
    [SIZE
    OIL --we don't need no stinking OIL. We run em till they quit then use em for a boat anchor!

    By the way what kind of tires youse guys using?



    Jack[/SIZE]
    2016 RT Limited , Black & Lava Bronze

  25. #50
    Very Active Member Zip's Avatar
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