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  1. #1
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    Default What size tool for an RT Oil filter?

    What size tool do I need to remove the oil filter on my 2017 RT. Not the plug but the filter itself.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default OIL FILTER

    Quote Originally Posted by Scanel View Post
    What size tool do I need to remove the oil filter on my 2017 RT. Not the plug but the filter itself.
    36MM for the cap and three fingers for the filter ........or tongs if you want to stay clean .......... Mike

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Agreed....

    you can also get those gloves the mechanics use and keep your hands clean...costo has good deals on boxes of Nitril exam gloves also less slipping...
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    I was in Home Depot looking for a 36mm socket. They wanted like 12 bucks for one. Then I didn’t have a half inch ratchet or breaker bar, so that would have been another 30 dollars. I carried socket all over store looking for something that it would fit on, found a pvc cap that was real close. The cap was 1 7/16. That’s just a teeny bit bigger than 36mm. Looked all over store again, and in the plumbing department, they had a set of long sockets that are used to get shower valves out of inside the wall. They’re about 4-5” long. The biggest one is 1 7/16. Got a hole in them that you can put a screwdriver or anything in to turn it. You can buy the whole set, like 10 or 12 sizes, for 18 dollars I think it en you can fix your shower too.

  5. #5
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    Default

    If you are going to use a socket I'd recommend a 6 sided socket. I found a 36mm wrench at Summit Racing for a very reasonable price, including shipping. I use the wrench for both the filter and rear axle.

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    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogs View Post
    If you are going to use a socket I'd recommend a 6 sided socket. I found a 36mm wrench at Summit Racing for a very reasonable price, including shipping. I use the wrench for both the filter and rear axle.
    The other guy will be fine with that plumbers wrench set he got, the rear axle is just a pipe, right? No doubt the plumbing tools can handle 160ftlb of torque.

  7. #7
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    Shower wrench deal it pretty flimsy, I doubt if it would work for much more than filter. I just used it Sunday to change oil filter, worked great. I also get a large rubber pan that is used under a house water heater to catch oil, that way you can take out both plugs at same time, and not have to have 2 containers to catch it. Real short sides, works great.

  8. #8
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    Having the right tools for the job is critical and also not cheap.

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  9. #9
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    It's been discussed here before, but you may want to re-think that 160 ft-lb. of torque on the rear axel nut. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the rear axle is tube, not a shaft.

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    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogs View Post
    It's been discussed here before, but you may want to re-think that 160 ft-lb. of torque on the rear axel nut. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the rear axle is tube, not a shaft.
    It's a heavy wall tube. The spec is 166 lb-ft torque beginning in 2013. It was 96 lb-ft before that. The axle and nut part numbers changed in 2013 so BRP most likely changed the strength of the steel. I saw a discussion here of axle nuts coming loose in the early models of the Spyder. A solid bolt of the same size normally would be torqued to about 200 lb-ft minimum. One chart I came across shows torque values up to 500 to 800 lb-ft for 1" bolts, depending on the grade of the steel. So, 166 is lower than the usual real world number.

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  11. #11
    Very Active Member Mazo EMS2's Avatar
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    Adjustable wrench or a channel lock with a rag on the plug cap...whole lot cheaper than buyin' a special socket that gets used a couple times a year. And no, it won't damage anything if used correctly.....don't want anyone here gettin' their britches in a bundle by me sayin use a channel lock
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  12. #12
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2 View Post
    Adjustable wrench or a channel lock with a rag on the plug cap...whole lot cheaper than buyin' a special socket that gets used a couple times a year. And no, it won't damage anything if used correctly.....don't want anyone here gettin' their britches in a bundle by me sayin use a channel lock
    That will not work for the axel, but for those that never touch their axel then it will work for them. Since I do the price of a good 36mm socket is worth it.
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member Mazo EMS2's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PW2013STL View Post
    That will not work for the axel, but for those that never touch their axel then it will work for them. Since I do the price of a good 36mm socket is worth it.
    Well, I've proven this statement wrong 3 times already. I've had my rear wheel off several times using a good adjustable wrench, and a good Channel lock pliers. Piece of cake!
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  14. #14
    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Still believe he should use the inexpensive plumbing wrench for his axle nut. There is only one way to know if it is worthy, see if it holds up...

    Honestly, you guys are often way to serious. I knowtne tool will not work, but if the guy believes his low cost alternatives are fine, then go for it.

    No shame in having the correct size quality tools and a high quality torque wrench,

    As for that axle torque of 166 lbft, realize the spec is for clean dry threads. If you have any lubricant on the threads of either the axle or nut, you are overtorquing the axle.

    Same is true for the oil filter and drain plugs...

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