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Brake Pedal Position Way Too High..Want to lower it.
Hi folks..A little technical stuff here for some..... Just got a new OEM (Can-Am) #4 position brake rod for my '17 F3L....$28.17 on internet. with all new nuts and bolts.. My F3L came stock with #3 position rod in place. I have longer legs and prefer stretching them out a bit and that is primarily why I chose the F3 over the RT. The problem is the position of the brake pedal position in all stock rod lengths...1-2-3-4-5... IT IS TOO HIGH. It should be down more so you don't have to bring your foot up so high to engage it. So I'm looking at it...(the rod and all And thought of a simple solution. Drill a hole further back on the rod and that will lay the pedal down just a few more degrees.
.So to LOWER BRAKE PEDAL HEIGHT.... I drilled a 5/16 hole for only front pin about 7/16"+- on center of factory hole back on one end of the rod. U measure your own..just a little....measure more than twice and drill only once.... So now reinstall the brake lever... you must remove to entire foot board assembly( 2 Screws) and the install the brake rod end with brake pedal first and tighten to torque specs...Be sure to tighten the brake lever end rod bolt before installing foot board assembly because you can't get your 5 mm allen in there. Work it it place and install rear pin last. My brake pedal is right where I like it now. You might find yours okay where it at. But this a quick fix and cheap enough for those who like the brake lever a little lower... just a little patience does the trick..The design of the Can-Am engineers prevents the two brake pins from coming out even it the nyloc nuts fall off. ...Brilliant!!!............ Peace to All Please....MsPolly
Last edited by SpyderPolly; 08-14-2018 at 10:17 PM.
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Sweet!
A bit of measuring, a drill and bingo! It fits you! We have done similar mods; use a longer rod than spec, or drill a New hole. Or, add a spacer to a pedal. Whatever it takes! One size does not fit all, and the F3 series recognizes that. Good for you!
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
Lamonster Garage has a new rod ready made to fix the brake pedal height problem:
http://www.lamonstergarage.com/can-a...rod-lamonster/
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Active Member
Any similar suggestions for an ST-S?
I've got over 2k miles and while I'm "used" to the brake pedal height, I'd probably be a bit more comfortable if it were a little lower. Any suggestions/recommendations appreciated.
Thanks!
Raprider (Rich)
2016 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5 Steel Black Metallic ( Blackbird)
BRP Audio, Heated Grips, Fog Lights, Passenger Backrest, Givi Saddlebags/Top Case
BajaRon Swaybar, TricLed Wide-Vu Mirrors, Lamonster Ram mount and X-grip, Sena 20S Evo Dual
TricLed Sequential Front SpyderFenderz, Dual Color Run/Brake/Turn LEDs, Brake Flasher
Kumho Ecsta AST installed on rear 4/2021
1996 Yamaha Virago 750 (Vera) - still riding
1987 Honda Shadow 500 (Shady) - sold
1982 Honda Rebel 250 (Little Reb) - sold
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Very Active Member
We sell a kit that can adjust it in 1/4" increments.
https://www.roadsterrenovations.info/for-the-f3
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I drilled the factory #4 position rod and it put the pedal at just the right height, just slide over and apply the brake. The more i thought about the extra hole in there, I ordered Lamonster brake rod and what a nice rod! Same spot for pedal, but no extra holes, no welded pieces, just one piece. This machine has one brake source and if that fails, its your life. Just the was I think. Rod was realitivey cheap. Tim
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Originally Posted by tim1
I drilled the factory #4 position rod and it put the pedal at just the right height, just slide over and apply the brake. The more i thought about the extra hole in there, I ordered Lamonster brake rod and what a nice rod! Same spot for pedal, but no extra holes, no welded pieces, just one piece. This machine has one brake source and if that fails, its your life. Just the was I think. Rod was realitivey cheap. Tim
The factory hole is forward of the pushing pressure of the rod against the master cylinder. I drilled behind it. The pedal pressure pushes back on the rod. So why should it compromise the strength of the rod?......$60,00 seems okay but why spend that when you can accomplish the same thing by drilling a simple hole that will not affect the safety of the only brake source on the machine.. No welding at all to do this simple fix. No argument here please... we are talking Brakes. Just wanted to make my point clear. .....Polly
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Our dealer drilled the same hole on our 15 f3s when we bought it - absolutely no issues, and brake pedal is in a far safer position - well done Polly
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