RT Front Suspension Upgrades - Which First?

[rodentrancher]

I have a 2017 RT-S, and am trying to decide priority for some upgrades. I'm not a particularly "sporty" rider, and I would be happy enough with the stock suspension as far as handling in the curves and twistys goes. My issue is how my Spyder deals with broken and uneven road surfaces (about the only kind to be found on the east side of Denver). If one front wheel hits a pothole or patch, and the other is on one of the rare sections of good pavement, the machine wallows and wiggles in a most annoying way. If it was a two-wheeler, I would say that the front needs more damping, both compression and rebound - don't know if that's the right concept to apply to a Spyder.

Some notes about my ryde:
- completely stock 2017 RT, just hit 1000 miles
- front tire pressure 19.5 pounds, carefully matched to be the same in both
- rear tire pressure 28 pounds
- no obvious visual signs of tire defects (stock Kenda tires)
- rear suspension air at middle setting
- I almost always ride solo, and weigh 175 pounds
- have not yet had laser alignment done, but if I'm on level, smooth road, I can take hands off bars and it keeps going straight (no pulling)

To fix my issue, I'm contemplating the following, and would like SL folks' opinions on the order to try them:
- BajaRon sway bar
- Elka front shocks
- laser alignment
- non-Kenda tires

Any feedback will be gratefully received, thanks!

[Lew L]

I would consider a laser alignment to be money well spent ( for any spyder). You'll also be happier with better tires but that's down the road a bit ( so to speak )

Lew L

[Bob Denman]

The laser alignment should be your first addition to the bike!
After that: I'd add BajaRon's Anti-SwayBar.
After that: An LED-lighted Bumpskid!
After that: LED lights on the front fenders
After that:....

It never actually stops!

[jcthorne]

For front suspension improvement, I recommend work and parts in this order. Stop when you are happy with the bike.

Check tire pressures, balance and run-out.
Laser Alignment
BajaRon Sway bar and end links
BajaRon Spring adjusters
Elka Front coil overs. (obviously you could skip the spring adjusters and go to this but its a big jump in price)

[Easy Rider]

- have not yet had laser alignment done, but if I'm on level, smooth road, I can take hands off bars and it keeps going straight (no pulling)

The "alignment" with a Spyder is not the same as a car; I don't think I have seen ANY owners report pulling to one side unless there is a brake dragging or a bent suspension part.

I'm in a similar situation.
Here is what I recommend:
1) Up your tire pressure a few pounds. This should cut down on sidewall flex. I found this gave me a more stable feel.
2) Get a laser alignment done, using the information found here: http://www.lindsayroland.com/spyder/spyderwheels.html
3) Get the new sway bar.
4) If you go all the way to new tires AFTER doing the other stuff, let me know how much difference that makes.......so I don't have to spend the money !!!

I hope to get the alignment and sway bar done in the next few weeks.
I personally don't think shocks will help much if any, given what you said about your situation.
Haven't seem many owners who report doing that.

[PMK]

I have a 2017 RT-S, and am trying to decide priority for some upgrades. I'm not a particularly "sporty" rider, and I would be happy enough with the stock suspension as far as handling in the curves and twistys goes. My issue is how my Spyder deals with broken and uneven road surfaces (about the only kind to be found on the east side of Denver). If one front wheel hits a pothole or patch, and the other is on one of the rare sections of good pavement, the machine wallows and wiggles in a most annoying way. If it was a two-wheeler, I would say that the front needs more damping, both compression and rebound - don't know if that's the right concept to apply to a Spyder.

Some notes about my ryde:
- completely stock 2017 RT, just hit 1000 miles
- front tire pressure 19.5 pounds, carefully matched to be the same in both
- rear tire pressure 28 pounds
- no obvious visual signs of tire defects (stock Kenda tires)
- rear suspension air at middle setting
- I almost always ride solo, and weigh 175 pounds
- have not yet had laser alignment done, but if I'm on level, smooth road, I can take hands off bars and it keeps going straight (no pulling)

To fix my issue, I'm contemplating the following, and would like SL folks' opinions on the order to try them:
- BajaRon sway bar
- Elka front shocks
- laser alignment
- non-Kenda tires

Any feedback will be gratefully received, thanks!

As the rider, how much do you weigh, that can be a very important criteria in deciding a best plan.

[Chupaca]

After the normal balance and equalized air pressure go for the laser alignment. See how that feels and then the BajaRon sway bar. The bar will make a big difference after wich you could look into the shocks/ shock adjusters if you have no adjustment ...

[rodentrancher]

As the rider, how much do you weigh, that can be a very important criteria in deciding a best plan.

175 pounds

[rodentrancher]

2) Get a laser alignment done, using the information found here: http://www.lindsayroland.com/spyder/spyderwheels.html

Thank you very much for that link - great info!

One of the dealers near Denver does laser alignments, but I think to the BRP specs, which doesn't sound like what I'd need. Might have to do a road trip to get it done.

Gee, another excuse to go for a long Spyder ryde ...

[BoilerAnimal]

I highly recommend Squared Away, site sponsers here. They did ours and the difference was unbelievable!

[PMK]

175 pounds

At 175 pounds there is no need to upgrade or alter spring preload. Likely not even a great need to swap swaybars. 175 is about 15% below the design rider weight weight for an RT in stock trim.

Rider weight and junk in the frunk are contributing factors to front end alignment. Ideally, your alignment will be set then check with you seated on the Spyder to ensure the optimum dimension is set.

I would focus my money on a set of new front tires first along with a proper alignment. OEM front shocks are not bad, and getting anything with added damping, both in compression and rebound may be counter productive if the shocks have firmer springs.

Apologies for not reading or seeing the weight before.

[tehrlich]

I think a lot of what you'll read here is the same, so best to go that route. Plus, we all kind of fall in line and justify it by saying do this first, this second, etc, from the order we did ourselves. Just the nature of forums.

However, I'll give you my opinion.

If you don't think the alignment is an issue, don't go get it done just because of forum posts. I personally did this because I'll spend whatever I want to make my chariot better and better. James Thorne did a great job but told me that the alignment was good when he did his laser alignment. So.... you MAY not necessarily need an alignment. (Kudos to Thorne for showing/telling me what he found.)

I'd do the anti-sway bar first as everyone has commented. I couldn't believe the difference. It is a do-it-yourself project if you are willing.

Then, I'd upgrade to real tires. You'll be amazed.

Later, I'd do the shocks. I replaced the shocks on my 2015 RT Limited immediately after purchase. The stock shocks are cheap, but for your weight an upgrade of shocks may not be such a big improvement as it was for me! I weigh more than you and carry a lot of camera gear with me all of the time. I bought the Fox shocks instead of the Elkas just because of the price difference. Elkas probably are better, but at the time was unaware of them. Fox shocks are a great improvement to the lousy stock RT shocks. Hey... I'll buy the Elkas and sell you my Fox shocks!

After you change all of that, THEN get the alignment to tie it all in.

[Easy Rider]

If you don't think the alignment is an issue, don't go get it done just because of forum posts.

But.....how is your "average owner" going to have any good way to know whether the alignment is an issue or not......without having it checked ??

Answer: They don't have any way to know or even to make a good guess.

Some have reported finding theirs WAY off when it is checked........and some have found enough improvement that they stopped right there.

[fjray]

For sure get proper alignment and then I would get a lot more than 1k on it before I spent more money. The bump steer you are experiencing on uneven pavement is the nature of the beast in most cases. play with air pressure and lighten up your grip on the bars.

[tehrlich]

But.....how is your "average owner" going to have any good way to know whether the alignment is an issue or not......without having it checked ??

Answer: They don't have any way to know or even to make a good guess.

Some have reported finding theirs WAY off when it is checked........and some have found enough improvement that they stopped right there.

Obviously didn't read the rest of my post. I said to do other things first, and then wrap it up with the alignment. How do you know the average owner won't be just fine after the anti-sway bar?

[Al_lockup]

Check out m2 shocks on YouTube, there is a video about Spyder upgrade.

[Flamewinger]

First thing I did was alignment and sway bar. After 5000 miles I noticed the front end diving more when stopping hard so I opted for BajaRon's shock adjusters as the Elka shocks made the last Spyder I had have a hasher ride. Now I know the ST was not as heavy a bike compared to the RT and that might be the difference in how the Elka shocks feel but just adding the shock adjusters stiffened the front end nicely and I can gradually stiffen them when I need and enjoy a comfy ride. I run 20psi in the fronts and 28ish in the rear.

I also have a few added lights rear brake flasher, spot lights for more noticeability and a comfy seat with gas door.