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Trailer lights
Do I need to put a bigger fuse in a 2011 RT to run the led lights on a pull behind trailer? Or is the one that's in the fuse box ok? What does everyone else do. It's a new 2017 aluma trailer that we bought back during the winter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Very Active Member
Fuses are usually ok it's the trailer module that has been known to fail, poor grounding. Some improvements have been made but some still pop up.
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Originally Posted by Two cats
Do I need to put a bigger fuse in a 2011 RT to run the led lights on a pull behind trailer? Or is the one that's in the fuse box ok? What does everyone else do. It's a new 2017 aluma trailer that we bought back during the winter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
The bike's wiring harness needs to have an isolator module so that the trailer lights are powered separately from the bike's lights. If it's a factory install it should be okay.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Two cats
Do I need to put a bigger fuse in a 2011 RT to run the led lights on a pull behind trailer? Or is the one that's in the fuse box ok? What does everyone else do. It's a new 2017 aluma trailer that we bought back during the winter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
What kind of wiring harness for the trailer do you have installed in your Spyder?
If it is the oem harness then the 10 amp fuse in the fuse box is plenty. Some aftermarket ones are not isolated and I would not recommend those. Some aftermarket ones are isolated but do not use the trailer fuse in in the spyder and have a separate power lead and fuse.
Need more info.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Originally Posted by Two cats
Do I need to put a bigger fuse in a 2011 RT to run the led lights on a pull behind trailer? Or is the one that's in the fuse box ok? What does everyone else do. It's a new 2017 aluma trailer that we bought back during the winter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Generally speaking, fuses are sized based on the current capacity of the wiring it is protecting. Using larger fuses than spec'd risks overloading the circuit wiring.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by billybovine
What kind of wiring harness for the trailer do you have installed in your Spyder?
If it is the oem harness then the 10 amp fuse in the fuse box is plenty. Some aftermarket ones are not isolated and I would not recommend those. Some aftermarket ones are isolated but do not use the trailer fuse in in the spyder and have a separate power lead and fuse.
Need more info.
it is a plug and play harness I bought from can am spyder accessories in Canada with the isolator bilt into it. The only lights the trailer has is 1 LED on each side for turn ,brake, and running lights. And a tag light that is a led also.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Two cats
it is a plug and play harness I bought from can am spyder accessories in Canada with the isolator bilt into it. The only lights the trailer has is 1 LED on each side for turn ,brake, and running lights. And a tag light that is a led also.
Unfortunately that harness from Pierre is not power isolated. So the first possible issue is hyperflash of the signal lights. Since the trailer is all leds you may be OK there. Second, as long as all the trailer wiring is in very good condition it will be fine. But if there is a short circuit in any of the trailer circuits. One of the fuses will blow. Instead of inconvenience of having the lights not working on the trailer. It can cause The same lights to fail on the Spyder, warning lights to come on and the Spyder to go into limp mode. Easily fixed by disconnecting the trailer and replacing the fuse. But still. Do not put in bigger fuses. Since the turn signal/hazard lights go through the gage cluster. If your damage that. It's $800 to fix.
Last edited by billybovine; 07-23-2018 at 07:04 PM.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Originally Posted by billybovine
Unfortunately that harness from Pierre is not power isolated. So the first possible issue is hyperflash of the signal lights. Since the trailer is all leds you may be OK there. Second, as long as all the trailer wiring is in very good condition it will be fine. But if there is a short circuit in any of the trailer circuits. One of the fuses will blow. Instead of inconvenience of having the lights not working on the trailer. It can cause The same lights to fail on the Spyder, warning lights to come on and the Spyder to go into limp mode. Easily fixed by disconnecting the trailer and replacing the fuse. But still. Do not put in bigger fuses. Since the turn signal/hazard lights go through the gage cluster. If your damage that. It's $800 to fix.
thanks so much. I was worried that it would start blowing fuses. It's a new trailer, wiring harness is run thru the tong and wrapped in plastic tubing all the way through. I just got all this finally put together this past week. It's been in pieces in my basement since November. Again thanks for all the info from everyone
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Two cats
thanks so much. I was worried that it would start blowing fuses. It's a new trailer, wiring harness is run thru the tong and wrapped in plastic tubing all the way through. I just got all this finally put together this past week. It's been in pieces in my basement since November. Again thanks for all the info from everyone
You really do need to get a plug & play harness for the bike that has an isolator in it. The turn signals on the RT are powered from the cluster with no fuse in the line. If you connect the trailer wires to the bike turn signals and later have a short there is a possibility that you may damage the cluster. If that happens you're looking at about an $800 repair bill. Get the isolator.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by billybovine
Unfortunately that harness from Pierre is not power isolated.
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
You really do need to get a plug & play harness for the bike that has an isolator in it.
Hey Billy, it looks like we need to do the trumpeter thing and back pedal! I just looked at Pierre's web site. The trailer harness he shows is essentially a clone of the BRP harness. It plugs into the harness under the seat and has a Hopkins 5 to 4 wire converter in it!
Two Cats, check the harness you got. Does it have a 5 to 4 wire converter/isolator like I see on the hitch page at canamspyderaccessories.com? If so you're good to go. That harness uses the OEM trailer power supply for the trailer lights so it's already fused as needed.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Here's Pierre's video about installing the harness.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
Hey Billy, it looks like we need to do the trumpeter thing and back pedal! I just looked at Pierre's web site. The trailer harness he shows is essentially a clone of the BRP harness. It plugs into the harness under the seat and has a Hopkins 5 to 4 wire converter in it!
Two Cats, check the harness you got. Does it have a 5 to 4 wire converter/isolator like I see on the hitch page at canamspyderaccessories.com? If so you're good to go. That harness uses the OEM trailer power supply for the trailer lights so it's already fused as needed.
It is not a clone of the brp harness. He is using the wrong module. That is a 5 to 4 converter. There is no power isolation. look and count the wires going into the module. There are only 5. Where is the power wire?
This picture is from Canam Spyder Accessories website.
trailer harness.jpg
It is a nice looking and appears to be a well made, plug and play harness. I wonder why he choose not to spend the extra 10 bucks on the right module.
PS I just looked up each module on amazon.com. The correct module is $30 more then the one he is using.
Last edited by billybovine; 07-24-2018 at 09:06 AM.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
The correct module
This is the module that BRP is using. This is what pierre should be using or another brand equivalent.
converter 1.jpg
This is what pierre is actually using.
converter 2.jpg
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
Hey Billy, it looks like we need to do the trumpeter thing and back pedal! I just looked at Pierre's web site. The trailer harness he shows is essentially a clone of the BRP harness. It plugs into the harness under the seat and has a Hopkins 5 to 4 wire converter in it!
Two Cats, check the harness you got. Does it have a 5 to 4 wire converter/isolator like I see on the hitch page at canamspyderaccessories.com? If so you're good to go. That harness uses the OEM trailer power supply for the trailer lights so it's already fused as needed.
no mine has the isolator separate from the 4 way pigtail. My wife found it on ebay. It is a plug and play for a RT that did come from canada. She said it cost 89:00 dollar on ebay. The plug for the trailer comes off the isolator . a little black box with a place to mount it with a screw and stickie tape on the back
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Two cats
no mine has the isolator separate from the 4 way pigtail. My wife found it on ebay. It is a plug and play for a RT that did come from canada. She said it cost 89:00 dollar on ebay. The plug for the trailer comes off the isolator . a little black box with a place to mount it with a screw and stickie tape on the back
Got a picture with a clear view of all the wires going into the module. I see there are a bunch on Ebay. Some of the vendors are saying they are isolated but they are not.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Originally Posted by billybovine
Got a picture with a clear view of all the wires going into the module. I see there are a bunch on Ebay. Some of the vendors are saying they are isolated but they are not.
ok is there any where to buy isolators at. Auto shop or online. Any help would be useful.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Two cats
ok is there any where to buy isolators at. Auto shop or online. Any help would be useful.
Let's make sure first. Get a picture or vendor name.
Another idea is to remove the trailer fuse. See your owner's guide. With the fuse removed the trailer lights should not work.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Originally Posted by billybovine
Let's make sure first. Get a picture or vendor name.
Another idea is to remove the trailer fuse. See your owner's guide. With the fuse removed the trailer lights should not work.
ok thanks,i'll try that and see what happens. If they still work is that bad or good
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Two cats
ok thanks,i'll try that and see what happens. If they still work is that bad or good
If they still work without the trailer fuse that means the harness is not using that fuse and is not power isolated.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by billybovine
It is not a clone of the brp harness. He is using the wrong module. That is a 5 to 4 converter. There is no power isolation. look and count the wires going into
the module. There are only 5. Where is the power wire?
You are so right, and I am so wrong!!!
I let myself get duped by the fact his harness plugs into the Spyder harness.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Fuse
Originally Posted by billybovine
If they still work without the trailer fuse that means the harness is not using that fuse and is not power isolated.
I finally got time to take the trailer fuse out of the front fuse box. With the fuse out I have no trailer lights, with it back in they work just fine. Does this mean that it is power isolated from the rest of the bike. Thanks p.s it is the number 7 fuse in the front fuse box on a 2011 RT and a 10 amp fuse
Last edited by Two cats; 07-28-2018 at 11:30 AM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Two cats
I finally got time to take the trailer fuse out of the front fuse box. With the fuse out I have no trailer lights, with it back in they work just fine. Does this mean that it is power isolated from the rest of the bike. Thanks p.s it is the number 7 fuse in the front fuse box on a 2011 RT and a 10 amp fuse
You are good to go. Nice to see some suppliers stepping up and doing the right thing.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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