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  1. #1
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Default New Bed-In Instructions from EBC

    It has been brought to my attention that EBC has completely changed their recommended 'Bed-In' process for new brake pads. They are no longer recommending the quick process of hard braking over several consecutive events when used in a street application.

    My feeling is that the original recommended process was tailored for race vehicles which do not have a lot of time or miles in which to get the brakes up to 100% efficiency. After-all, the original application for Sintered pads was for racing. But more and more people are finding they work very well on street applications as well.

    So, for whatever reason these changes were made. Here are the new recommendations from EBC for bedding-in their pad sets. I see it, basically, as drive and brake as you normally would, trying to be a bit easier on the brakes (if possible) until you get some stop & go miles on them.

    Their process makes it sound like it takes forever for the pads to work effectively. I have not found this to be the case at all. This may apply more to cars than to our Spyders.

    Bedding in EBC pads

    In Street use situations …

    Best procedure is to drive gently avoiding harsh braking unless in an emergency for first 100 miles. In the second 100 miles (up to 200) you can use gently increasing brake pressures when using the brakes.

    Only after 200 miles urban driving (not 200 miles on a freeway where brakes are almost unused) should you attempt to apply heavy load and heat to the brakes. To do this final bedding on a QUIET ROAD in safe traffic apply the brakes and slow from 60 to 10 MPH five times in a row. Then drive slowly for a few minutes if safe to do so to allow the brakes to cool. Try to avoid coming to a rest whilst the brakes are heated.

    A smell may be noticed from the warm brakes, this is normal. Repeat this procedure a second time after the brakes have TOTALLY cooled down. EBC pads get better with miles. Even after this bed in procedure it can take up to 1500 miles before the pads are at their best. In the meantime the pads will be good and safe but true potential not realized. EBC makes performance pads that last, they do not bed in within 5 minutes driving. Noises will be more likely during the first 1000-1500 miles use whilst this chemical bedding takes place.

    NEVER attempt to sand or Scotch Brite brake pads to assist it bedding in or noise reduction. This will only make things worse by taking the pads “Off-Flat” and require hundreds of miles driving to seat them again, during which time the brakes will feel very dull. The only way to seat pads is against the rotor they will be used on, and by following our bedding recommendation.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 07-16-2018 at 01:20 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Default

    As usual, you've provided useful information on components that are important for our safe enjoyment of these amazing machines. Thanks.
    2014 RTL Platinum


  3. #3
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Default Not So Fast!

    After having done a fair amount of research on this 'New' EBC brake pad bedding-in process. I am convinced that while this new approach will work OK. It is not ideal. The original bedding-in process is still being hailed by those who do a lot of hard riding as the best and quickest way to get maximum stopping capability from the Semi-Sintered and Fully Sintered brake pads.

    So I am going to go back to recommending the original process which is.

    On a safe, straight, open road with good traction. Speed up to about 60 mph and slow as quickly as possible (hard braking) to about 20 mph.

    Then, immediately speed up to about 60 mph again and Repeat this hard braking scenario 4-5 times in rapid succession.

    DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP anytime during this process.

    After the least sequence, ride, (without stopping if possible) for about 5 minutes to allow the braking components to cool evenly.

    The idea here is to get the brake pads very hot. This cures the resins which bind the braking material and also mates the brake pad surface to the rotor surface giving you 100% contact area. You will smell hot brakes, but continue with at least 4 complete sequences. If you do not smell hot brakes, you are not applying enough force and you will not get the desired results. These are intended to be, pretty much, emergency stopping scenarios.
    Last edited by BajaRon; 07-24-2018 at 08:36 AM.
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  4. #4
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    Default Ron, I'm with you on this one...

    200 to 1500 miles to seat-in motorcycle brake pads to function properly is ludicrous and unsafe. Just how many folks who own and ride spyders, or any other motorcycle for that fact, have any knowledge about brake pad seat-in process. These machines are designed for comfort, safety, dependability and enjoyment. I've been aware of the process and used the heat'm up and cool'm down method for years, and that's it. Then, "ride it like you stole it," as the saying goes. Just how many folks have been warned about an extensive break-in procedure when they've just had a brake job done for them by a dealership? Few if any would be my guess. You take your bike in on one day for new brakes and possibly and new rear tire and pick it up it up on another day from the service department. Then your off for a weekend of enjoyment. But wait; not so fast, your breaks won't be working properly for 200 or 1500 miles so take it easy and don't take any unnecessary chances until the brake pads seat in. They won't function properly until they've been broken in properly. If that's how it works, those type of pads should not be sold to the general public.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Thanks .....

    Thanks fot the follow up but do agree the original bed in is what works best for the agressive ryders and does seem safer. will be doing the fronts here soon and will do them as I did the rear ones...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  6. #6
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogs View Post
    200 to 1500 miles to seat-in motorcycle brake pads to function properly is ludicrous and unsafe. Just how many folks who own and ride spyders, or any other motorcycle for that fact, have any knowledge about brake pad seat-in process. These machines are designed for comfort, safety, dependability and enjoyment. I've been aware of the process and used the heat'm up and cool'm down method for years, and that's it. Then, "ride it like you stole it," as the saying goes. Just how many folks have been warned about an extensive break-in procedure when they've just had a brake job done for them by a dealership? Few if any would be my guess. You take your bike in on one day for new brakes and possibly and new rear tire and pick it up it up on another day from the service department. Then your off for a weekend of enjoyment. But wait; not so fast, your breaks won't be working properly for 200 or 1500 miles so take it easy and don't take any unnecessary chances until the brake pads seat in. They won't function properly until they've been broken in properly. If that's how it works, those type of pads should not be sold to the general public.
    Only speculation because they will never say. But I think it is a liability concern that EBC is addressing in having a non-professional rider speed up and slow down quickly on a public road. But like anything in life, everything you do (or do not do) has some form of liability attached to it. With a bit of common sense, this is a safe and easy procedure.

    I am going to stick with what works best. I think the liability of doing the quick bedding-in process is less than needing an emergency stop during the first 200-1500 miles. You want your brakes to be there when you mash on them, and so do I.

    This is not a mandatory step. I'm sure I have many customers who just ride away with new brakes without doing the bedding-in process and never have a problem.

    But I want to do my due diligence and give you what I think is the best way to go. What you do with the information is completely up to you. As it should be.

    Thanks everyone and have a great day!
    Last edited by BajaRon; 07-25-2018 at 10:01 AM.
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  7. #7
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    Default Yea Ron, sadly....

    Everything is liability driven these days. And I mean everything.

  8. #8
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2dogs View Post
    Everything is liability driven these days. And I mean everything.
    True, but you can't really blame them. Liability management has become an industry because the consumer, assisted by the legal profession, has made it this way.
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