Stranded in Orlando

[Warlock]

Lots of great suggestions, none have paid off (gas was a few hours old, fuses were good but I replaced them anyway).

But it now gets more interesting. I went to start it this morning and it fired right up like nothing had ever happened. I took a chance and rode it to the prison I was visiting (old friend is incarcerated). It behaved perfectly.

Went to start it again this afternoon and it would crank. I ended up having to tow it back to the hotel because no place near here will accept bikes on Sundays.

SHort term plan - if it starts in the morning, I’m heading straight back home stopping only for gas but will not shut down the motor. If it won’t crank, I’ll have to have it towed to a dealer, fly home, and try to talk the hotel into letting me park my little trailer somewhere.

How far of a drive and maybe if you get strained some members might could help trailer it home. Maybe a tag team trailer haul. JAT
David

[OverHillAndDale]

Nanny threw up a P0335, which is a crankshaft position sensor error. Perhaps this implies that the ECM doesn’t know when to trigger a spark to the plugs. Still not rolling, but hopefully this is a (faint) start.

So, today I’ll be calling some of the dealer you all have recommended to and BEGGING them to service me TODAY. It seems unlikely, but that’s my only shot at this morning. Otherwise I’ll be UBERing (is that a new word?) ride to the airport, flying home, and trying to deal with a stuck trailer.

[bushrat]

If you're in Wildwood, FL, the closest shop handling Spyders is going to be Seminole Power Sports North, in Eustis, just east of Leesburg, about 20 - 25 miles away. Go east on Hwy 44 to 441 to their shop. Info here:
Address: 15821 US-441, Eustis, FL 32726, USA
Hours: Closed ⋅ Opens 9 a.m.
Phone: +1 352-357-1607

I spend winters nearby, but am back in Canada right now. If you have continuing problems and need a place to park something temporarily, PM me and maybe I can help.
Good luck.

[PMK]

Nanny threw up a P0335, which is a crankshaft position sensor error. Perhaps this implies that the ECM doesn’t know when to trigger a spark to the plugs. Still not rolling, but hopefully this is a (faint) start.

So, today I’ll be calling some of the dealer you all have recommended to and BEGGING them to service me TODAY. It seems unlikely, but that’s my only shot at this morning. Otherwise I’ll be UBERing (is that a new word?) ride to the airport, flying home, and trying to deal with a stuck trailer.

While speaking with the dealers, you might also ask the parts department if they have the sensor in stock. Waiting on the part may be your longest delay.

[OverHillAndDale]

If you're in Wildwood, FL, the closest shop handling Spyders is going to be Seminole Power Sports North, in Eustis, just east of Leesburg, about 20 - 25 miles away. Go east on Hwy 44 to 441 to their shop. Info here:
Address: 15821 US-441, Eustis, FL 32726, USA
Hours: Closed ⋅ Opens 9 a.m.
Phone: +1 352-357-1607

I spend winters nearby, but am back in Canada right now. If you have continuing problems and need a place to park something temporarily, PM me and maybe I can help.
Good luck.

Bushrat - thank you! The hotel has agreed I can keep my trailer here for a few days, but if I’m told that the repair is a couple of weeks out I’ll likely take you up on your offer to park something. I’ll still have the issue of getting it there, but one step at a time...

[Easy Rider]

Bushrat - thank you! The hotel has agreed I can keep my trailer here for a few days, but if I’m told that the repair is a couple of weeks out I’ll likely take you up on your offer to park something. I’ll still have the issue of getting it there, but one step at a time...

Too bad this happened when it did. I have a toy hauler that could have helped a LOT.....and am not too far from Wildwood.....but it is in use for the next week. If you can get the Spyder to a dealer, why can't the trailer go with it and stay there ??
Come to think of it, my TH wouldn't handle Spyder AND trailer.

Just out of curiosity, where do you live ??

[ijon1]

I had a car that I got a bad tank of gas. The car would run for a while and quite. It would fill up the filter. Let it set awhile and it would run. It took two or three filters to get to run right. Just a thought.

[OverHillAndDale]

I had the byke hauled to the nearest dealer (In Eustis) and begged them to at least take a look. The battery did show as failing so they replaced it, but this was like the sick child who is suddenly better once they get to the doctor. The byke started! I asked them to try regularly, and they did. Each time the byke started right up.

So, I Ubered a ride, paid for the battery, and drove to get gas. it restarted perfectly. Drove to the hotel, loaded up the byke and trailer, and ........ it wouldn't start. I waited about 10 minutes, tried again, and it started right up.

Long story short - I left Orlando at 6 PM Eastern and rode straight until 1:15 AM Central, about 475 miles. I filled up with gas 4 times but never shut off the motor. Everything ran like a top.

This morning I tried to move the byke from the driveway to the garage and it wouldn't start!

[OverHillAndDale]

When the bike didn't start this morning I couldn't remember if I'd waiting for the normal nanny time. So I waited about 10 minutes, turned the key and hit the starter immediately. It still didn't start but the starter turned. I never had to clear the screen.

Nanny appears to be doing her normal wait time, but she's not stopping the starter from turning. I think maybe nanny has the flu!

Before you ask, no it still won't start if I wait for the normal nanny delay before I try.

[Easy Rider]

Before you ask, no it still won't start if I wait for the normal nanny delay before I try.

You should be able to eliminate that delay by pushing the mode button once.
Key ON.
Push brake.
Hit mode once.
Start.

This might not have anything to do with your present problem though.

[billybovine]

I am guessing that waiting nanny time refers to the long running myth, that removing the key and waiting some period of time, fixes something. Removing the key does absolutely nothing. But causes no harm either. It is true that turning the key off and waiting 30 seconds can change the state of a fault from active to occurred. But waiting longer then that is a waste of your time. But you do not mention that the engine light is on. So there are no active fault codes either. So the waiting the 30 seconds is a waste of time as well. Sounds like a faulty relay to me. It is randomly working.

[OverHillAndDale]

I am guessing that waiting nanny time refers to the long running myth, that removing the key and waiting some period of time, fixes something. Removing the key does absolutely nothing. But causes no harm either. It is true that turning the key off and waiting 30 seconds can change the state of a fault from active to occurred. But waiting longer then that is a waste of your time. But you do not mention that the engine light is on. So there are no active fault codes either. So the waiting the 30 seconds is a waste of time as well. Sounds like a faulty relay to me. It is randomly working.

I didn't remove the key, just waited several minutes, turned the key, hit the starter. The starter kicks in immediately rather than forcing the usual wait time.

[billybovine]

I didn't remove the key, just waited several minutes, turned the key, hit the starter. The starter kicks in immediately rather than forcing the usual wait time.

If the key was off for less than 5 minutes and you mean that you did not have to wait or push the mode button. That is perfectly normal.

When you turn the key on and the engine kill switch is in the run position. You should hear the fuel pump run for 3 or 4 seconds. Do you? If you do will it start then.

[Joel The Biker]

Still sounds like a bad relay to me. Fuel pump could be, but usually when they stop working, its for good. If you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key, then its probably working ok. Check those relays. You won;t be the first person on here that has had a relay go bad. At they very least, remove each one and make sure the contacts are clean. Swap any that you can for another that is the same.

[billybovine]

Still sounds like a bad relay to me. Fuel pump could be, but usually when they stop working, its for good. If you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key, then its probably working ok. Check those relays. You won;t be the first person on here that has had a relay go bad. At they very least, remove each one and make sure the contacts are clean. Swap any that you can for another that is the same.

I don't think it is the fuel pump either. But engine relay R5 in the left fuse box. Powers the fuel pump, coils and fuel injectors. Just trying to identify the bad relay. That is the only relay that I am seeing that could cause the symptoms described. But if that relay does not power up on command. It should result in a check engine light. Because there is a feedback circuit to the ECM.

[BRPcare]

On a trip - started as a nice way to reconnect with some old friends. Then... the bike stopped running. The starter turns the motor over but there’s either no spark or no fuel. And of course it’s Sunday, so my options are few.

Does anyone have any easy things to try (limited tools), or a great dealer near Wildwood, FL?

Hi there,

Here are a few dealers near Wildood:

SEMINOLE POWERSPORTS NORTH
15821 U.S. HWY 441, EUSTIS, FL, 32726-6557, US
352-357-1607



RIDENOW POWERSPORTS OCALA
3880 N.US HWY 441, OCALA, FL, 34475-8706, US
352-732-8531


BARNEY'S OF BROOKSVILLE
14430 CORTEZ BLVD, BROOKSVILLE, FL, 34613-5975, US
352-796-6116

Best,

Karine, BRP-Care

[Spyder_Cowgirl]

Long story short - I left Orlando at 6 PM Eastern and rode straight until 1:15 AM Central, about 475 miles. I filled up with gas 4 times but

never shut off the motor

. Everything ran like a top.

This morning I tried to move the byke from the driveway to the garage and

it wouldn't start!

Please note, the OP has GONE HOME and is no longer near the location of the original failure! While I appreciate your desire to help, pointing to dealers that are nowhere nearby anymore is NOT HELPFUL!

Better would be an offer to get a case open and referred to his "home" dealer of choice …. All the best … Ann

Hi there,

Here are a few dealers near Wildood:

SEMINOLE POWERSPORTS NORTH
15821 U.S. HWY 441, EUSTIS, FL, 32726-6557, US
352-357-1607



RIDENOW POWERSPORTS OCALA
3880 N.US HWY 441, OCALA, FL, 34475-8706, US
352-732-8531


BARNEY'S OF BROOKSVILLE
14430 CORTEZ BLVD, BROOKSVILLE, FL, 34613-5975, US
352-796-6116

Best,

Karine, BRP-Care

[ARtraveler]

A little bit of too little, too late going on.

[AngryBug]

Try the WOT *Wide Open Throttle)
Ignition ON
Twist and hold throttle Wide Open
Crank Engine
Release Throttle
Try restarting without opening throttle.

What does the WOT do? Does that clear something internally?

Also Easy Rider suggested (couldn't figure out how to quote two folks)
"You should be able to eliminate that delay by pushing the mode button once.
Key ON.
Push brake.
Hit mode once.
Start."

Does that just clear the splash screen quicker when you first start the start up process?

Just one more question...are these only troubleshooting steps applicable only to the RTs, or if there were a problem would it work on any Spyder?

Please be patient with my newbie questions. I just got my '17 F3T (first Spyder) June 16 and Angry Bug has quickly become my daily driver. I was raised helping dad in the garage and can usually limp myself home on four wheels if/when needed. With that upbringing, I totally believe that if I'm gonna ride alone (husband is truck driver and gone all week) I need to know how to troubleshoot and/or remedy random issues that may pop up when I am away from home.

Many thanks - Stephanie and Angry Bug

[Easy Rider]

Does that just clear the splash screen quicker when you first start the start up process?

Yes I think so.
On my older (998 engine) RT, I think it forced you to wait for the initial screen to time out or push the mode button before it would start.
I think the new ones don't do that and the mode button may not be any real advantage anymore.

Edit: Just tested and the '17 still needs the mode button hit if you want to speed things up.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

This might be a good time to talk about this.

WOT while cranking:

Although less frequently than on a carbureted motor, an electronically fuel injected motor can get flooded. This simply means that most or all of the spark plug electrodes and insulators have been coated with excessive liquid fuel, such that the spark voltage just gets shorted to ground rather than create a spark in the gap. Typically a leaky or sticking fuel injector causes this. So, ever since Bosch invented the thing, they incorporated a flooded engine mode into the ECU. Going to full throttle BEFORE you hit the start button and begin cranking tells the ECU to fully open the butterfly valves in the throttle bodies, but not to add any fuel...or in some applications, only a tiny amount. Technique is the key here. Go through your normal prestart items, twist the grip to full throttle, hold it there, THEN hit the start button and crank for about 10 seconds. The idea is to dry off the plugs to allow a spark. After that, attempt a normal start.

Another item to note - very early on Monday morning, the OP was able to pull up a crankshaft position sensor error active code. Since we don’t have distributors anymore, it is this sensor that tells the ECU the ROTATIONAL position of the crankshaft so that it knows when to fire the plugs and set ignition timing. A flaky CPS could be the entire cause of his fail to start issues. As important as the CPS and CAPS is, to me there should be two redundant sensors. But since we can’t fall out of the sky when the engine quits, I guess they just give us one.

It was a long stressful day but he made it home safely.

[AngryBug]

Yes I think so.
On my older (998 engine) RT, I think it forced you to wait for the initial screen to time out or push the mode button before it would start.
I think the new ones don't do that and the mode button may not be any real advantage anymore.

Edit: Just tested and the '17 still needs the mode button hit if you want to speed things up.

This might be a good time to talk about this.

WOT while cranking:

Although less frequently than on a carbureted motor, an electronically fuel injected motor can get flooded. This simply means that most or all of the spark plug electrodes and insulators have been coated with excessive liquid fuel, such that the spark voltage just gets shorted to ground rather than create a spark in the gap. Typically a leaky or sticking fuel injector causes this. So, ever since Bosch invented the thing, they incorporated a flooded engine mode into the ECU. Going to full throttle BEFORE you hit the start button and begin cranking tells the ECU to fully open the butterfly valves in the throttle bodies, but not to add any fuel...or in some applications, only a tiny amount. Technique is the key here. Go through your normal prestart items, twist the grip to full throttle, THEN hit the start button and crank for about 10 seconds. The idea is to dry off the plugs to allow a spark. After that, attempt a normal start.

Really appreciate the helpful explanations. Makes perfect sense.
Storing all these nuggets in the back of my head in case I ever have issues when I'm out alone (or so I can dazzle hubs if I have issues when we are out together)

[larryd]

OH&D...Any word on a fix yet???

[ofdave]

Hi there,

Here are a few dealers near Wildood:

SEMINOLE POWERSPORTS NORTH
15821 U.S. HWY 441, EUSTIS, FL, 32726-6557, US
352-357-1607



RIDENOW POWERSPORTS OCALA
3880 N.US HWY 441, OCALA, FL, 34475-8706, US
352-732-8531


BARNEY'S OF BROOKSVILLE
14430 CORTEZ BLVD, BROOKSVILLE, FL, 34613-5975, US
352-796-6116

Best,

Karine, BRP-Care

his post on the 3rd noted he was no longer in Florida