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Active Member
So I replaced the 3-40 amp fuses in the bottom bank. There are 3-40's and 1-25 amp.
Couldn't find a 25 amp anywhere in town so ordered from the dealer.
The result was the same, after about 40 miles it went into limp mode so I came home and washed the miserable $%#$%
I phoned the selling dealer and the warranty expired on April 30, 2018
Now I'm wondering what it cost me for the dealer to intall a new fuse box??????
Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions and advice.
regards
Greg
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Wrongway
Sorry about the length of this post but I'll keep it as short as possible
BACKGROUND:
We got rid of our 2011 Spyder RT in April because of mechanical issues. To get rid of it we traded it on a 2007 Goldwing because we've had goldwings in the past.
The 2007 Wing was great but we both really really missed 3 wheels.
Sold the Wing private and picked up a 2014 Spyder RT Limited in a private sale. Bike was taken to a reputable Spyder Dealer for a check over and safety prior to purchase.
Picked up the Spyder 9 days ago and during the 9 days rode it 400 trouble free miles.
Today was our day for a 300 mile return trip to our daughters.
Here are the codes that we got not once but several times during our ride:
C006C C003A P2159 P081E P0000
Before going into limp mode with the engine light, abs light and ??????? The bike surged once like there was a fuel blockage and then ran fine for about 5 miles. This repeated itself about 4 times and the the limp mode etc came on.
3 days ago I put a can of seafoam in the bike and filled the tank with Shell 91 octaine and rode it about 100 miles since then prior to today. My first thought was that the seafoam had possibly broken some deposits loose and the bike wasn't getting enough fuel.
Anyway, when the limp mode came on I pulled over immediately and shut the bike off and let it sit for 10 minutes. Fired it back up and engine light etc were still on. I started to proceed and the lights went off and everything seemed fine. Full power was back etc.
This repeated itselt about 4 times during the 300 mile ride.
When we got home, I went out alone and filled the bike up with regular fuel. After about 15 miles the bike went into limp mode and started to downshift all the way to first gear by itself.
Pulled over, shut off for 5 minutes. Start up and proceed and lights went out and bike ran great. This repeated itself 4 times during a 40 mile ride.
I'll take it to the dealer in the morning but man oh man is this ever discouraging. Here's a picture of the dash showing the lights. The engine light was also on so don't know why it's not in the picture.
Maybe the same bugs you have running around on your screen got into the bike .
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Active Member
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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Very Active Member
hahahha
Originally Posted by stmike 1800
Maybe the same bugs you have running around on your screen got into the bike .
I know every time I see those things move I get ready to swipe it off the screen ! hey guy if you have to go that far , get the quote on the repair , then do a search on how to do it your self ( you might be able too repair a lot of the wiring just behind the fuse box ? a maybe ? I have never messed in this division of ohhhh heck , so I am just thinking if it is possible to do new connections , and crimps connections to complete the wiring with a new fuse box ? just a thought ...
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Originally Posted by Highwayman2013
I’m betting on a loose battery cable because of all the different things the codes are showing.
OR the battery getting weak.....OR the charging system failed.
Side note: SeaFoam is largely snake oil and putting a whole can in with ~6 gallons of gas is WAY too much. But it should not cause any long term problem unless maybe it fouled the plugs.
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Active Member
Seafoam ain't no snake oil to me :)
Originally Posted by Easy Rider
OR the battery getting weak.....OR the charging system failed.
Side note: SeaFoam is largely snake oil and putting a whole can in with ~6 gallons of gas is WAY too much. But it should not cause any long term problem unless maybe it fouled the plugs.
When I first discovered seafoam I had a 2001 Valkyrie that was running really rough. I was worried because of the 6 carbs because there are fewer and fewer mechanics able to sync them properly.
Anyway, reading on a forum similar to this one, I kept seeing seafoam talked about so after investigating it I put a full can/bottle in the tank, filled up with premium gas and went for a ride.
Within 20 minutes the bike was running like new. Miracle in a can/bottle to me at that time and ever since that my vehicles get it twice a year.
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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Active Member
Update
I dropped the sypder off at the dealer today at 4:30. Although they're fully booked until Monday, because it's electrical related they're going to put it in the shop and the tech will check it out when he can.
I used to work at a car dealership as a service advisor and I did that a lot when customers were able to leave their vehicle with us.
They were always amazed at how fast they got their vehicle back because there are always
no-shows so the vehicle gets looked after.
I'll make sure to update what happens.
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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Originally Posted by Wrongway
Miracle in a can/bottle to me at that time and ever since that my vehicles get it twice a year.
It does function as a decent fuel system cleaner.....but not really good.
Berrymans B12 Chemtool or Gumout or Techron for injectors are much better cleaners.....with actual solvents.....and are about 1/3 the inflated price of SeaFoam.
But do whatever makes you happy. Just read and follow the directions.
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GOS member (Girls On Spyders)
Warranty Expiration
Ugh! Expired April 30, 2018 ... that's just TOO close! Might your current dealer, the one doing the diagnosis, be willing to "go to bat" for you and see if a good will extenstion of BEST is possible? The only reason I suggest this is that a 2014 model should have been eligible for about a year (maybe slightly less, depending on when first sold) extension to bring the factory warranty to a full five years. Since that fluid was so badly colored it seems that this problem has existed for a while (maybe even before you bought the bike) -- corrosion that bad doesn't happen overnight and to color the liquid it had to be in that box for several weeks (IMHO). I know this was a private sale, but shame on the dealer that checked the bike out for you -- they should have informed you of the warranty status, and also should have noticed the water intrusion problem (I just think it had to be there before you bought the bike).
If it were my Spyder, I would certainly ask if there is a possibility to extend the BEST warranty under good will from BRP. If so, the place to purchase is Bert's Megamall (they are a sponsor here); best price for BEST warranty and they give Spyderlovers a discount.
Just a suggestion …. good luck with the diagnosis and repair …. Ann
__________________________________________________ _
2016 RT Limited -- "Jubilee" (as in Cherries)
Guardian Bell (gift from spyderowboy)
ISCI Dual Flag Mount – Tall Poles
Lamonster Bottle Holder and Spyder Cuff
Spyderpops Missing Belt Guard
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Rear Run / Brake / Turn LEDs
Spyderpops Mirror LEDs
Custom Dynamics HMT Brake
Spyderpops Keep Out The Trash (KOTT) Grills
Don't Eat Mud / mudflap
__________________________________________________ __
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Spyder_Cowgirl
Ugh! Expired April 30, 2018 ... that's just TOO close! Might your current dealer, the one doing the diagnosis, be willing to "go to bat" for you and see if a good will extenstion of BEST is possible? The only reason I suggest this is that a 2014 model should have been eligible for about a year (maybe slightly less, depending on when first sold) extension to bring the factory warranty to a full five years. Since that fluid was so badly colored it seems that this problem has existed for a while (maybe even before you bought the bike) -- corrosion that bad doesn't happen overnight and to color the liquid it had to be in that box for several weeks (IMHO). I know this was a private sale, but shame on the dealer that checked the bike out for you -- they should have informed you of the warranty status, and also should have noticed the water intrusion problem (I just think it had to be there before you bought the bike).
If it were my Spyder, I would certainly ask if there is a possibility to extend the BEST warranty under good will from BRP. If so, the place to purchase is Bert's Megamall (they are a sponsor here); best price for BEST warranty and they give Spyderlovers a discount.
Just a suggestion …. good luck with the diagnosis and repair …. Ann
Good suggestion. I'll talk with the dealer today and see what they're willing to do for me.
Thanks
Greg
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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Active Member
Update
So I picked up my spyder at 5:30 today.
The mechanic told me that he cleaned the left side fuse box and replaced all fuses and relays.
Said that they did a good long road test with no issues.
This was very good news.
I told my wife that I was going to go for a good long ride to make sure it was good to go.
After riding a grand total of 10 miles, the bike went into limp mode and performed exactly like it did before I left it with the dealer. How the ^%$^* long was the good long road test that I was told they did???
This is supposed to be a reputable dealer.......hmmmm.
The did submit a claim to BRP to cover the issue but who knows if BRP will honor it or not.
Anyway I'll drop it off tomorrow (saturday) and they're closed on Sunday and Monday so nothing will be done until at least Tuesday.
I'm going to ask the mechanic if he tested the battery as well just to be sure that he didn't just assume it was the fuse box. Of course, in my mind it's definately the fuse box.
More to follow:::::::: someday!!!!!
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Trapdoor
Battery connections may be tight but corrosion between the posts and clamps will create problems. And, speaking from my two-wheel experience, don't forget the negative cable connection to the Spyder chassis.
I'll second that comment. That was exactly the problem with my wife's RT - loose chassis ground. All is well now.
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Active Member
Losing faith in BRP and Dealer
So this morning I proceeded to take the spyder back to the dealer.
Had the key out of the bike all night.
Started right up but still in limp home mode and engine light etc still on.
Drove 1 block, pulled over and turned bike off. Removed key and walked away for 4 minutes.
Came back, started bike and no codes showing and not in limp home mode.
Proceeded and after 2 miles while in 5th gear at 55mph the bike started DOWNSHIFTING ON IT'S OWN.
Pulled over, turned off and removed key. Walked away and then came back and restarted. No warning lights on and no codes showing.
Proceeded and after 1 mile while in 4th gear at 45 mph the bike WENT INTO LIMP HOME MODE and started DOWNSHIFTING ON IT'S OWN agin.
Anyway, got to the dealer at 8:50 AM and explained everything to them and left bike with them.
The closed at 2PM and phoned me at 1:50 to tell me the bike would have to stay with them and they're closed until Tuesday due to Canada Day.
They told me that they only got to spend about 10 minutes on it today which I understand and find acceptable.
The SAGA continues.
The Mechanic assured me that he had already tested the battery as well as all battery connections so who knows.
This update has been provided to you by a Spyder Lover (the concept anyway) who is quickly becoming a Spyder Ex Lover.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-30-2023 at 05:18 PM.
Reason: Moved Post title into text - many only see Thread titles, and post titles mess with Searching! ;-)
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Wrongway
So this morning I proceeded to take the spyder back to the dealer.
Had the key out of the bike all night.
Started right up but still in limp home mode and engine light etc still on.
Drove 1 block, pulled over and turned bike off. Removed key and walked away for 4 minutes.
Came back, started bike and no codes showing and not in limp home mode.
Proceeded and after 2 miles while in 5th gear at 55mph the bike started DOWNSHIFTING ON IT'S OWN.
Pulled over, turned off and removed key. Walked away and then came back and restarted. No warning lights on and no codes showing.
Proceeded and after 1 mile while in 4th gear at 45 mph the bike WENT INTO LIMP HOME MODE and started DOWNSHIFTING ON IT'S OWN agin.
Anyway, got to the dealer at 8:50 AM and explained everything to them and left bike with them.
The closed at 2PM and phoned me at 1:50 to tell me the bike would have to stay with them and they're closed until Tuesday due to Canada Day.
They told me that they only got to spend about 10 minutes on it today which I understand and find acceptable.
The SAGE continues.
The Mechanic assured me that he had already tested the battery as well as all battery connections so who knows.
This update has been provided to you by a Spyder Lover (the concept anyway) who is quickly becoming a Spyder Ex Lover.
Thank you for the update. Give them a chance to fix it--THIS TIME. Hopefully you have a good and knowledgeable dealer. That can make or break ones love affair with the
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Off topic pic I know but just curious. Your tag line. Says 2014 RT with SE5. I thought 2014s were 6 speed.
Originally Posted by Wrongway
So this morning I proceeded to take the spyder back to the dealer.
Had the key out of the bike all night.
Started right up but still in limp home mode and engine light etc still on.
Drove 1 block, pulled over and turned bike off. Removed key and walked away for 4 minutes.
Came back, started bike and no codes showing and not in limp home mode.
Proceeded and after 2 miles while in 5th gear at 55mph the bike started DOWNSHIFTING ON IT'S OWN.
Pulled over, turned off and removed key. Walked away and then came back and restarted. No warning lights on and no codes showing.
Proceeded and after 1 mile while in 4th gear at 45 mph the bike WENT INTO LIMP HOME MODE and started DOWNSHIFTING ON IT'S OWN agin.
Anyway, got to the dealer at 8:50 AM and explained everything to them and left bike with them.
The closed at 2PM and phoned me at 1:50 to tell me the bike would have to stay with them and they're closed until Tuesday due to Canada Day.
They told me that they only got to spend about 10 minutes on it today which I understand and find acceptable.
The SAGE continues.
The Mechanic assured me that he had already tested the battery as well as all battery connections so who knows.
This update has been provided to you by a Spyder Lover (the concept anyway) who is quickly becoming a Spyder Ex Lover.
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Active Member
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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New to the Spyer, but been an electrician for 25+ years, so here’s my take...Sounds like a lot of corrosion in the wiring harness. The ends of the wires at the connectors are probably severely corroded. They are working OK for a while, then when it’s run for a while, connections heat up. Sometimes go “open” while others will create a resistance. Wires would need trimmed back until you have clean copper, solder splice replacement lengths, then reconnect to the fuse lock, or replace fuse holder. Soldering connections would be best. The original are crimped. Just my 2 pennies, hope this helps. Intermittent electrical gremlins suck!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by inspmark
New to the Spyer, but been an electrician for 25+ years, so here’s my take...Sounds like a lot of corrosion in the wiring harness. The ends of the wires at the connectors are probably severely corroded. They are working OK for a while, then when it’s run for a while, connections heat up. Sometimes go “open” while others will create a resistance. Wires would need trimmed back until you have clean copper, solder splice replacement lengths, then reconnect to the fuse lock, or replace fuse holder. Soldering connections would be best. The original are crimped. Just my 2 pennies, hope this helps. Intermittent electrical gremlins suck !
Thank you. After a lot of reading your opinion makes perfect sense.
Definately I want a new fuse holder and cover regardless of who pays for it.
The corroded wires definately need to be cut back until they find clean copper.
Thanks again for you input, it's appreciated.
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Wrongway
Just got back from the dealer and the spyder mechanic agrees with you Ron. He said the box doesn't look too bad and suggested removing the bottom bank of 3-40 amp and 1-25 amp fuses, cleaning up the contacts and installing new fuses.
I took it for a long ride after talking with him because I had the fuse box opened up all night with a fan blowing on it. After 40 miles riding it did everything that it did yesterday so no more riding until I replace the fuses. Then I'll say a prayer and go riding.
Looks like you're making progress... Once there's water intrusion and any sign of corrosion in a fuse box the magic electrical pixies tend to get moody... If you caught it in time and there's sign of corrosion, replace the affected wires and terminals, get out a can of fluid film and PLASTER that fuse box from the front and back with it... I had a customer have this issue and I added drain ports in the factory fuse box and polluted that fuse box with fluid film and it's been three years now with no further malfunctions. Yes water still gets in there a bit but there's so much fluid film in there it just beads off and drains out. The fuse boxes are a part of a yearly inspection on Spyders and may I add, when I was at the Spyder dealer recently I checked the fuse box on a 2018 sitting on the lot after it had rained and been driven about 20km in the rain.... guess what? WATER INTRUSION!
Last edited by gmctech; 07-04-2018 at 01:11 PM.
“The very existence of flamethrowers proves that sometime, somewhere, someone said to themselves, 'You know, I want to set those people over there on fire, but I’m just not close enough to get the job done.”― George Carlin
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Active Member
Originally Posted by inspmark
New to the Spyer, but been an electrician for 25+ years, so here’s my take...Sounds like a lot of corrosion in the wiring harness. The ends of the wires at the connectors are probably severely corroded. They are working OK for a while, then when it’s run for a while, connections heat up. Sometimes go “open” while others will create a resistance. Wires would need trimmed back until you have clean copper, solder splice replacement lengths, then reconnect to the fuse lock, or replace fuse holder. Soldering connections would be best. The original are crimped. Just my 2 pennies, hope this helps. Intermittent electrical gremlins suck !
Excellent advice... ever try muriatic acid on corroded wires? I use it all the time when working with corroded wires on some units especially boats. Dip the corroded wire in it and voila! Clean as a whistle... neutralize it then get to soldering. use this a lot on vessels I do electrical work on.
Last edited by gmctech; 07-04-2018 at 01:29 PM.
“The very existence of flamethrowers proves that sometime, somewhere, someone said to themselves, 'You know, I want to set those people over there on fire, but I’m just not close enough to get the job done.”― George Carlin
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Very Active Member
BRP does not sell parts of the fuse box. You buy a new one complete with the harness section attached to it and replace the whole thing. No dealer is going to slice and dice, solder and patch and stand behind the work. Never ending returns.
Now, if you are an adept electronics repair person, then sure, perhaps you can spend the hours on end to do the patch clean and solder type repair on your own time (lots of it).
Wish you luck but the sooner you bite the bullet and get it repaired right, the sooner you will be able to enjoy the bike. And you really cannot sell it in its current condition.
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Active Member
Finally Fixed (I HOPE)
Got my Spyder back today around 2:30.
When I dropped it off on Saturday, it was down-shifting by itself all the way to first at 50 mph.
The mechanic found a code for the VCM (expensive) so when he went to check on Tuesday when they opened, he told me there's some kind of connector similar to the fuse box for the VCM connection. When he removed the cover, water poured out if it. Anyway, he cleaned up all the connections and tested everything and all was ok.
The dealer road tested it for 50 miles before giving it back to me.
Then I rode it another 140 miles and it performed flawlessly.
As luck would have it, 15 miles from home the skys opened up and it poured rain. Since the dealer is only 3 miles from home and they were open late today, I headed there in case water got into the fuse box again and the bike acted up.
The sun was out when I got to the dealer and the bike worked fine. The mechanic came out and checked both fuse boxes and they were both free of water. The outer covers that keep the frunk dry did have water in them as designed.
They've got a claim in with BRP to see if they cover the repair because the best warranty expired on April 30, 2018. BRP hasn't said no yet and they submitted the claim last Wednesday so here's hoping.
Anyway, I'll be nervous on every ride for a while and if caught in rain, fusebox inspections will become the norm.
Thanks to everyone here for all your suggestions, advice and support.
My wife wants to trade the Spyder for a 2008 Goldwing trike with a Lehman kit with solid rear axle. It would cost us about $7,000.00 difference (a lot of money). We've had Goldwings and their reputation for reliability is well deserved in our opinion.
I love the Spyder and want to give it a chance. I warned her that the solid axle wing would be a much rougher ride for her that the Spyder.
Anyway, hopefully the problem has been resolved. Even in BRP doesn't come through, I'm happy.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-30-2023 at 05:21 PM.
Reason: Moved Post title into text - many only see Thread titles, and post titles mess with Searching! ;-)
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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Originally Posted by Wrongway
Got my Spyder back today around 2:30.
When I dropped it off on Saturday, it was downshifing by itself all the way to first at 50 mph.
The mechanic found a code for the VCM (expensive) so when he went to check on Tuesday when they opened, he told me there's some kind of connector similar to the fuse box for the VCM connection. When he removed the cover, water poured out if it. Anyway, he cleaned up all the connections and tested everything and all was ok.
The dealer road tested it for 50 miles before giving it back to me.
Then I rode it another 140 miles and it performed flawlessly.
As luck would have it, 15 miles from home the skys opened up and it poured rain. Since the dealer is only 3 miles from home and they were open late today, I headed there in case water got into the fuse box again and the bike acted up.
The sun was out when I got to the dealer and the bike worked fine. The mechanic came out and checked both fuse boxes and they were both free of water. The outer covers that keep the frunk dry did have water in them as designed.
They've got a claim in with BRP to see if they cover the repair because the best warranty expired on April 30, 2018. BRP hasn't said no yet and they submitted the claim last Wednesday so here's hoping.
Anyway, I'll be nervous on every ride for a while and if caught in rain, fusebox inspections will become the norm.
Thanks to everyone here for all your suggestions, advice and support.
My wife wants to trade the Spyder for a 2008 Goldwing trike with a Lehman kit with solid rear axle. It would cost us about $7,000.00 difference (a lot of money). We've had Goldwings and their reputation for reliability is well deserved in our opinion.
I love the Spyder and want to give it a chance. I warned her that the solid axle wing would be a much rougher ride for her that the Spyder.
Anyway, hopefully the problem has been resolved. Even in BRP doesn't come through, I'm happy.
Could you please clarify what repair you're now anticipating? It seems from your explanation the fuse box issue is resolved now? Are you talking about the VCM? Thanks.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Active Member
Originally Posted by UtahPete
Could you please clarify what repair you're now anticipating? It seems from your explanation the fuse box issue is resolved now? Are you talking about the VCM? Thanks.
Yes, the fuse box issue seems to be resolved now.
The VCM was mentions because one of the fault codes led to mechanic to that. Apparently there is some kind of connector box for the VCM and when he undid the box to check things out, water poured out of the box but the VCM is functioning properly now (thank god).
We'll never know for sure but the guy that I bough the spyder from is a big ATV nut. The techs at the shop are guessing that when he was getting his toys ready to put away for the winter, he used a pressure washer on the underside of the vehicles which forced water into the left fuse box and the VCM box or connector or whatever (I haven't seen the VCM area personally).
The mechanic does not anticipate that any further repairs will be required for this issue. He cleaned up everything and tested everything and he doesn't think anything else is required.
Last edited by Wrongway; 07-04-2018 at 10:43 PM.
Greg
2015 RT Limited (White)
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Originally Posted by Wrongway
Yes, the fuse box issue seems to be resolved now.
The VCM was mentions because one of the fault codes led to mechanic to that. Apparently there is some kind of connector box for the VCM and when he undid the box to check things out, water poured out of the box but the VCM is functioning properly now (thank god).
We'll never know for sure but the guy that I bough the spyder from is a big ATV nut. The techs at the shop are guessing that when he was getting his toys ready to put away for the winter, he used a pressure washer on the underside of the vehicles which forced water into the left fuse box and the VCM box or connector or whatever (I haven't seen the VCM area personally).
The mechanic does not anticipate that any further repairs will be required for this issue. He cleaned up everything and tested everything and he doesn't think anything else is required.
What an ordeal. Sorry you had to experience that. Thanks for sharing it with us.
2014 RTL Platinum
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