Installing Big Bike Parts Electronic Fuse Block 13-311 in 2014RT

[UtahPete]

I'm finally getting around to installing this Electronic Fuse Block (EFB) I got from Lamonster Garage last Fall http://www.lamonstergarage.com/trailer/



I've already got the OEM trailer harness, so didn't need the trailer lighting aspect of it. What I wanted it for was to power switched and unswitched accessories from a convenient location instead of tapping into the existing OEM wiring harness (as much as possible)

I already had a battery tender harness attached directly to the battery, but with this device I could remove that from the battery and thus clean up the wiring in the frunk.

So, first step, after removing the battery tender connection, was to attach the main power leads from the EFB to the battery. I decided to locate the EFB just under the left headlight. I ran the two wires (red and green) down from there and in through the opening at the battery compartment. I then covered these two wires with some wire loom material to protect them at the chafe points.

Electronic Fuse Block - 1.jpg

Electronic Fuse Block - 2.jpg

Electronic Fuse Block - 3.jpg

[UtahPete]

The third power wire (yellow) is the trigger for the relay to power the switched terminals. I've been looking for a convenient place to tap into a switched circuit. Since it's just a 20 AWG wire, I tapped into the hot lead for the Left Front Running Light (that little light outboard of the headlights. Checked it out and works well.

Electronic Fuse Block - 1.jpg

[NM Wrench]

When I installed mine I don't have any gauges anymore so I tapped into the red wire from one of them which is a switched power wire. Hope that helps!

[r1100rider]

Any other suggestions for picking up a switched power circuit ?

Put your volt meter to 12v setting and turn key on and off checking for voltage at fuses block the block un screws and tap the switched wire it is only a trigger for the relay so it doesn't need to be a heavy fused circuit,but you can take it for what it's because remember in past threads you critized my highest grade I achieved,and the miserable state I live in not everybody spent there live's in a office I spent my life building fixing wireing and plain old physical labor

[billybovine]

If you don't have the optional front trunk power outlet and the fuse in the slot for switched. You could use that pigtail zip tied to the left frame. If any of your switch positions under the handlebars are not used. You can unplug the connector underneath and use the running light circuit. Crip a male spade connector to your wire and plug in. That's on with the key. Now if you want to be behind the load shedding relay so your accessouries don't come on until the engine starts. That would take a little more digging.

[billybovine]

I think that pigtail might be ideal. Can you be a little more specific where to find it? Thanks.

I just noticed you have RT Limiteds. The Limited I thought had the power outlet as standard. So the pigtail should have been used.

If you have the outlet. You can still tap into that. But it would be easier to take the front trunk off. To get easy access.

If you don't have the outlet. You can likely find it if you look into the upper left front suspension. The wires are in a rubber sleeve/boot. It still may be easier just to take the front trunk off.

This is from the 2011 service manual but yours should be similar and not as neat. See item labels DC1/DC2

DC1.jpg

[billybovine]

Did you look for the pigtail? I have read several times. Folks accessing it without taking the front trunk off.

[UtahPete]

This is the EFB wired up. I have the battery tender cord on one of the 2 unswitched circuits (10 amp). On the switched circuits, I have the GPS on a 5amp, my D2 driving lights on a 10 amp, and a new 12v outlet at the dash (actually speaker grill) on the remaining 10amp switched circuit. As I said before, I'm not using the trailer lighting circuits. This all tucks neatly away into the cavity beneath the left headlight and is readily accessible by removing the one inspection panel.

Electronic Fuse Block - 4.jpg

[Peteoz]

Yeah, these electronic fuse blocks save sooooo much trouble once they are in, Pete. I’ve got the Neutrino, set up very similar to yours, with the trigger wire running to the F3 accessory power in the front. It has also allowed me to set Lamont’s Bright Rider running lights to full power in daylight and dropping automatically to half power when it detects sunset.

Pete

[billybovine]

This is the EFB wired up. I have the battery tender cord on one of the 2 unswitched circuits (10 amp). On the switched circuits, I have the GPS on a 5amp, my D2 driving lights on a 10 amp, and a new 12v outlet at the dash (actually speaker grill) on the remaining 10amp switched circuit. As I said before, I'm not using the trailer lighting circuits. This all tucks neatly away into the cavity beneath the left headlight and is readily accessible by removing the one inspection panel.

Electronic Fuse Block - 4.jpg

I see you must have gotten to the accessory pigtail?

[UtahPete]

I see you must have gotten to the accessory pigtail?

No, I wasn't ready to tackle the frunk removal. I used the running light circuit to trigger the switched outlet relay.

[UtahPete]

Update
The switched circuits quit working. Inside the box, corrosion is evident and I'm sure the relay has failed in some way because i only get 5v or less at those circuits. This box is NOT waterproof and i dont recommend it.

So, I'm considering the Denali Hub, Neutrino Black Box or the Eastern Beaver products.