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Active Member
Originally Posted by newbert
I went one better and dropped the fronts to 19. Tried it out for 35 miles and it does seem to help make the overall ride smoother.
Thanks!
| 2015 F3-S | Heated Grips | USB Ports | RAM X-Grip | RT Sway Bar | '2 Up' Rear Shock | SHAD Bag Kit | Oxford Aqua 50 Dry Bag | BRP Rider Backrest |
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Active Member
Vredestein
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
If you are buying front tires, the Vredestein makes two sizes that will fit the 15" wheel ..... They have very, high performance numbers ..... The Tire Rack has them and will ship this tire to you for FREE , which makes them very attractive from a price standpoint ......... A few here have tried them and liked them a lot ..... Mike
Mike,
Which Vredestein tire do you recommend for an F3T?
Jeff
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Very Active Member
VREDESTEIN TIRES
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Active Member
Rear?
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Will this one work for the rear?
Quatrac 5 - Size: 205/65R15
Do you know anyone that has these on all 3 wheels??
Thanks...
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Very Active Member
WILL 205/65 FIT
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 06-11-2018 at 05:31 PM.
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Originally Posted by Peteoz
That’s opposite to what I have actually experienced, Easy Rider.....I have to ride over a 10km, potholed, secondary road to go anywhere from home. My Kuhmos, running at around 18-20 psi, feel definitely softer than the Kendas did at 18 and 26. .....
Pete
Good report.
Just picking any old brand/model of tire I doubt that would be the case.
This might be just what he needs.
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Vredestein
BK what are the sizes you are referring to, I can only see 175-55-15 on the tire rack site.
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
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Active Member
Mike, I sent this to Peter as well..I value both of your opinions and trying to figure this out.
I found that Vredestein also produces a 205/60R15 91H or 91V What do you think of these choices? How will they affect the speedometer and odometer and Nanny?
For the fronts I found 165/65R 81T and 165/60 R15 77 H. Should I match up the 60s ? Your thoughts on this combo?
Thanks again for all your input!! Jeff
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Very Active Member
Does anyone use runflat tires ,had one on the rear off the Wing worked good ,but never had a flat. But just felt safer with it on.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Easy Rider
Good report.
Just picking any old brand/model of tire I doubt that would be the case.
This might be just what he needs.
Yeah, but it wasn’t any kind of scientific data on my part, Easy Rider, just seat of the pants stuff.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
One thing I will throw out here, is that when I installed my Kuhmo KH17 175x60 fronts, my speedo trued up. It now matches my GPS speed perfectly. This was BEFORE I had installed my Kuhmo rear. Peter A couldn’t understand this, which caused a lot of self doubt, but after checking everything again, there is no question that the install of those size fronts, definitely trued up my speedo.
......and the install of a KU22 205/55 rear, did not alter it .
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
WHAT FLAVOR - VREDESTEIN
Originally Posted by Jeffmal
Mike, I sent this to Peter as well..I value both of your opinions and trying to figure this out.
I found that Vredestein also produces a 205/60R15 91H or 91V What do you think of these choices? How will they affect the speedometer and odometer and Nanny?
For the fronts I found 165/65R 81T and 165/60 R15 77 H. Should I match up the 60s ? Your thoughts on this combo?
Thanks again for all your input!! Jeff
PM sent ............ Mike
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Very Active Member
Immediate difference.
This is all subjective based on the car tire you choose... but with the right car tires I've:
Had way better dry traction front and back
Had way better wet traction front and back
Had way better standing water performance front and back
The Kumho that I tried on the rear of my GS lasted 11k miles - about 1k more than the OEM Kendas. The Kuhmo was a fine touring tire, but overall it's dry and wet performance was pretty bad. Only benefit of the Kumho for me was even tread wear across the entire tire width.
On the GS fronts the Bridgestone Potenza RE-92's were absolutely awesome.
On the GS the best rear I had was the Toyo Proxes 4 (no longer made). That tire was super sticky in the dry and it's wet and rain performance was incredible. Between a nail in one Toyo and selling the GS I never figured out what miles I could get to with the Toyo (on the GS)
On the F3-S I switched to the Federal Evos for the fronts. Did it early. Bit stickier than stock and better in the rain. I switched out the Kenda fronts at 4500 miles and to be honest I would have been ok keeping the OEM fronts, but decided to switch early.
On the F3-S rear I have once again a Toyo Proxes 4. My OEM Kenda was ready for replacement near 4500 miles. After 5500 on this current Toyo it looks like I might make 8k miles before needing a new rear. So I'm not getting great mileage out of the rears on the F3. I chalk that up to riding style. My Spyder doesn't do low heat around town puttering. When I ride I'm out for 8+ hours a day of riding twisties with hard braking and acceleration. No burnouts other than some wheel slip now and then.
Best advice? Any car tire is going to perform better than the Kendas and wear evenly. You may or may not get more miles out of the rear specifically. The Kumho is fine for many, but I suggest spending the extra $ on something better like the Yokohama s drive 205/50R15. It may even be in the same price range but people seem far happier with the Yokohama than the Kumho.
As for air pressure I'll only say you will find lots of opinions and a lot of apparent tire experts here. Yes the Spyder is lighter than a car and thus the tires aren't even pushing their load ratings. I've run 20-22 PSI on the fronts for thousands of miles with no issues and anywhere from 28-30 on the rear with no issues. You go too low of a PSI and the tire may create too much heat via sidewall flex and may break a bead in an abrupt swerve. Some here suggest some very low PSI in the tires.... "Tread" carefully... Get it?
I buy mine for performance and not price and not the miles I get out of them. True, I wish the tires would last longer on my F3-S but that is probably my fault more than anything else. Just remember that at some point after your 2nd or 3rd rear tire you should have your rear bearings inspected and potentially replaced.
I will be mounting my last Toyo Proxes 4 this summer at some point... I really wish they still made that tire.
WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
Charlotte (Matthews), NC
Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
*Mower deck in development*
2008 model -new in crate, April 09
26,000 miles.
Looking for other Charlotte area riders to cruise with and compare Spyders.
HAPPY SPYDER OWNER
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Very Active Member
LOW PSI
Originally Posted by WackyDan
Immediate difference.
This is all subjective based on the car tire you choose... but with the right car tires I've:
Had way better dry traction front and back
Had way better wet traction front and back
Had way better standing water performance front and back
The Kumho that I tried on the rear of my GS lasted 11k miles - about 1k more than the OEM Kendas. The Kuhmo was a fine touring tire, but overall it's dry and wet performance was pretty bad. Only benefit of the Kumho for me was even tread wear across the entire tire width.
On the GS fronts the Bridgestone Potenza RE-92's were absolutely awesome.
On the GS the best rear I had was the Toyo Proxes 4 (no longer made). That tire was super sticky in the dry and it's wet and rain performance was incredible. Between a nail in one Toyo and selling the GS I never figured out what miles I could get to with the Toyo (on the GS)
On the F3-S I switched to the Federal Evos for the fronts. Did it early. Bit stickier than stock and better in the rain. I switched out the Kenda fronts at 4500 miles and to be honest I would have been ok keeping the OEM fronts, but decided to switch early.
On the F3-S rear I have once again a Toyo Proxes 4. My OEM Kenda was ready for replacement near 4500 miles. After 5500 on this current Toyo it looks like I might make 8k miles before needing a new rear. So I'm not getting great mileage out of the rears on the F3. I chalk that up to riding style. My Spyder doesn't do low heat around town puttering. When I ride I'm out for 8+ hours a day of riding twisties with hard braking and acceleration. No burnouts other than some wheel slip now and then.
Best advice? Any car tire is going to perform better than the Kendas and wear evenly. You may or may not get more miles out of the rear specifically. The Kumho is fine for many, but I suggest spending the extra $ on something better like the Yokohama s drive 205/50R15. It may even be in the same price range but people seem far happier with the Yokohama than the Kumho.
As for air pressure I'll only say you will find lots of opinions and a lot of apparent tire experts here. Yes the Spyder is lighter than a car and thus the tires aren't even pushing their load ratings. I've run 20-22 PSI on the fronts for thousands of miles with no issues and anywhere from 28-30 on the rear with no issues. You go too low of a PSI and the tire may create too much heat via sidewall flex and may break a bead in an abrupt swerve. Some here suggest some very low PSI in the tires.... "Tread" carefully... Get it?
I buy mine for performance and not price and not the miles I get out of them. True, I wish the tires would last longer on my F3-S but that is probably my fault more than anything else. Just remember that at some point after your 2nd or 3rd rear tire you should have your rear bearings inspected and potentially replaced.
I will be mounting my last Toyo Proxes 4 this summer at some point... I really wish they still made that tire.
Dan, in all the Car tires I have used ( for the rear ) ...they have been in 16 to 18 PSI range ....well over 100,000 miles of riding ...... I have never had a tire even SLIP on the Rim let alone break a BEAD ....Over-inflating a Car tire ( for the Spyders weight ) is #1. - giving you less traction ...and #2. - a punishing ride..... This is tire Science not " what someones Butt told them " ...... To ALL those tire Science doubters just try this ..... On your Spyder , deflate a tire to about 5 psi ( this won't break the Bead on a parked machine ) ... now start IN-FLATING it, you can Actually see the tire FOOTPRINT getting smaller ....this begs the question - How can a smaller Footprint give better traction - Answer IT CAN'T..............and if you think it CAN - then you should " PROVE IT " ........ Mike
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Dan, in all the Car tires I have used ( for the rear ) ...they have been in 16 to 18 PSI range ....well over 100,000 miles of riding ...... I have never had a tire even SLIP on the Rim let alone break a BEAD ....Over-inflating a Car tire ( for the Spyders weight ) is #1. - giving you less traction ...and #2. - a punishing ride..... This is tire Science not " what someones Butt told them " ...... To ALL those tire Science doubters just try this ..... On your Spyder , deflate a tire to about 5 psi ( this won't break the Bead on a parked machine ) ... now start IN-FLATING it, you can Actually see the tire FOOTPRINT getting smaller ....this begs the question - How can a smaller Footprint give better traction - Answer IT CAN'T..............and if you think it CAN - then you should " PROVE IT " ........ Mike
Prove what? What exactly are you asking me?
The answer is simple. At the same tire pressure the car tire will out perform stock kendas. You want to go lower fine, that is choice. I don't know how you ride Mike. I've met a lot of people that say they ride their spyder hard and then end up riding with them and find out their own perception of their riding style is not anywhere near reality. I've seen some people here suggest some pretty low psi numbers which quite frankly probably weren't safe for all riders and situations.
I'm well aware of what air pressure does for tires. I run my rock crawler at 3-5 psi per tire for traction, but I have dual beadlocks.
Again... not here to get in an internet pissing match.
Last edited by WackyDan; 06-13-2018 at 01:16 PM.
WackyDan - Fun, not crazy.
Charlotte (Matthews), NC
Silver Moon SM5 - V35 and V46 Givis, CHAD, Motolight 35w steering lights, Dash Powerlets, Helibar risers, Garage door opener, Eastern Beaver PC-8, Digital voltmeter, Kewl Metal Intake, Evoluzione Sway Bar, RT Shocks and Juice Box PRO.
*Mower deck in development*
2008 model -new in crate, April 09
26,000 miles.
Looking for other Charlotte area riders to cruise with and compare Spyders.
HAPPY SPYDER OWNER
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Originally Posted by WackyDan
This is all subjective based on the car tire you choose... but with the right car tires I've:
- Had way better dry traction front and back
- Had way better wet traction front and back
- Had way better standing water performance front and back
The Kumho that I tried on the rear of my GS lasted 11k miles - about 1k more than the OEM Kendas. The Kuhmo was a fine touring tire, but overall it's dry and wet performance was pretty bad. Only benefit of the Kumho for me was even tread wear across the entire tire width.
On the GS fronts the Bridgestone Potenza RE-92's were absolutely awesome.
On the GS the best rear I had was the Toyo Proxes 4 (no longer made). That tire was super sticky in the dry and it's wet and rain performance was incredible. Between a nail in one Toyo and selling the GS I never figured out what miles I could get to with the Toyo (on the GS)
On the F3-S I switched to the Federal Evos for the fronts. Did it early. Bit stickier than stock and better in the rain. I switched out the Kenda fronts at 4500 miles and to be honest I would have been ok keeping the OEM fronts, but decided to switch early.
On the F3-S rear I have once again a Toyo Proxes 4. My OEM Kenda was ready for replacement near 4500 miles. After 5500 on this current Toyo it looks like I might make 8k miles before needing a new rear. So I'm not getting great mileage out of the rears on the F3. I chalk that up to riding style. My Spyder doesn't do low heat around town puttering. When I ride I'm out for 8+ hours a day of riding twisties with hard braking and acceleration. No burnouts other than some wheel slip now and then.
Best advice? Any car tire is going to perform better than the Kendas and wear evenly. You may or may not get more miles out of the rear specifically. The Kumho is fine for many, but I suggest spending the extra $ on something better like the Yokohama s drive 205/50R15. It may even be in the same price range but people seem far happier with the Yokohama than the Kumho.
As for air pressure I'll only say you will find lots of opinions and a lot of apparent tire experts here. Yes the Spyder is lighter than a car and thus the tires aren't even pushing their load ratings. I've run 20-22 PSI on the fronts for thousands of miles with no issues and anywhere from 28-30 on the rear with no issues. You go too low of a PSI and the tire may create too much heat via sidewall flex and may break a bead in an abrupt swerve. Some here suggest some very low PSI in the tires.... "Tread" carefully... Get it?
I buy mine for performance and not price and not the miles I get out of them. True, I wish the tires would last longer on my F3-S but that is probably my fault more than anything else. Just remember that at some point after your 2nd or 3rd rear tire you should have your rear bearings inspected and potentially replaced.
Thanks for sharing this info and perspective.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
NOT - a pissing match
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 06-13-2018 at 02:34 PM.
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Very Active Member
i use vredstein quatrac on my '13 rt-s and they are very good tires in quality and performance
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Active Member
Sizes?
Originally Posted by SPECTACUALR SPIDERMAN
i use vredstein quatrac on my '13 rt-s and they are very good tires in quality and performance
Can you provide the size for front and back and how many miles you have on them. Thanks
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Originally Posted by Peteoz
Yeah, but it wasn’t any kind of scientific data on my part, Easy Rider, just seat of the pants stuff.
Sometimes that is better, sometimes it isn't.
Sometimes people "know" scientific data but don't understand how to use it correctly.
Sometimes they make stuff up and CALL it science.
Last edited by Easy Rider; 06-13-2018 at 06:05 PM.
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Originally Posted by WackyDan
Again... not here to get in an internet pissing match.
He is still pissing about my statement that a smaller contact patch will have less tendency TO HYDROPLANE.
I did NOT say it was better for overall traction.....in any conditions.
Yet he continues to chase ghosts.
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Very Active Member
I run 25psi up front and 28psi in the back. Ride every day and experimented countless times, and measured heat signatures.
I personally do not like the soft shoe feel of 20psi, and 15psi was like a wet sock trying to just turn in my driveway. Just not for me and others that I know.
2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by tehrlich
I run 25psi up front and 28psi in the back. Ride every day and experimented countless times, and measured heat signatures.
I personally do not like the soft shoe feel of 20psi, and 15psi was like a wet sock trying to just turn in my driveway. Just not for me and others that I know.
Curiosity, but did you track and measure the heat differentials at differing inflation figures?
Many people actively advocate for lower inflation figures, but have not posted any temperatures. That's the biggest potential problem with under inflating the tires is heat build up. The old rule of thumb was to measure the temperature of the tire when cold and then when run up. If there's more than 2-3 psi difference, then you're under inflated.
2020 RTL SE6
Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by KX5062
Curiosity, but did you track and measure the heat differentials at differing inflation figures?
Many people actively advocate for lower inflation figures, but have not posted any temperatures. That's the biggest potential problem with under inflating the tires is heat build up. The old rule of thumb was to measure the temperature of the tire when cold and then when run up. If there's more than 2-3 psi difference, then you're under inflated.
Yes, I did. Discussed my findings, and the low pressure police wouldn't have any of it.
2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid
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