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Active Member
Any easy way to Bleed Brakes & ABS Module?
2015 RTSE6 Looking to do a complete bleed out of the brake system. Is there an easy way to get to the bleeder screw on the VSS/ABS MODULE. I am using a mighty vac break bleeder. THANK YOU
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Do you have experience bleeding ABS systems ?
And do you have access to the diagnostic computer ? I think that is necessary to do it "right".
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Easy Rider
Do you have experience bleeding ABS systems ?
And do you have access to the diagnostic computer ? I think that is necessary to do it "right".
I have experience with bleeding ABS brakes. I don't have BUDS.
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I believe there is a procedure. Maybe rear then left then right to bleed. If I can find my annual I will post.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by trikermutha
I believe there is a procedure. Maybe rear then left then right to bleed. If I can find my annual I will post.
I have the procedure. I am looking for ideas as to how to get to the ABS module.
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Very Active Member
Patterns.....
Left front
Right front
Rear
VCM...located in the front of vehicle
You can do rear only but recommended you follow with the VCM...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ris
I have the procedure. I am looking for ideas as to how to get to the ABS module.
It's a bit easier to get at if you take the left front tire off...
Though the manual say you need BUDS, I have done at least 6 full brake fluid changes with no problems not using BUDS.
I always pump my brake pedal a few times to make sure I have good pressure before I turn the key on...
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Very Active Member
BRAKES
Originally Posted by ris
2015 RTSE6 Looking to do a complete bleed out of the brake system. Is there an easy way to get to the bleeder screw on the VSS/ABS MODULE. I am using a mighty vac break bleeder. THANK YOU
for what it's worth...
i just bled the brakes on my F3 about 2 months ago, and DID NOT bleed the VCM.... i now have ridden about 1000 miles of smiles with NO ISSUES....
when i bled them, i used a vacuum assist unit, and pulled an entire bottle of Brake Fluid (32 oz.) tru the system... i would imagine that every bit of the old fluid has been replaced... NO computer codes came up, and my brakes feel better than ever now...
jmho
Dan P
SPYD3R
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There will remain a wee bit of brake fluid in the ABS unit without using the BUDS to cycle the valving. Is that an issue? There is a certain amount that remains in the calipers that will not be purged out and that's the area subject to the highest heat, i.e., thermal break down of the DOT 4 fluid. The specs say to replace the fluid when it has water content of 4% or greater (see information related to the H-D recall for brake fluids).
The brakes are a closed system. There is no circulation between the ABS module and the calipers, rather a column of fluid. The reason to purge the brake fluid is to remove the potential for high temperatures boiling the water in the brake fluid creating a compressible column of gas and spongy brake control. The highest likelihood of high temperatures is the brake pedal (due to proximity to the exhaust) and the calipers (due to frictional heating).
The ABS system on the Spyder was adopted from an automotive system, which typically receive far less attention than our Spyders.
Wayne
pauly1 - SpyderDeb's 'wrench'
2018 F3-T & 2015 F3-S Road Warrior Foundation Tribute customs
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Thinks out loud
A simulated panic stop after a bleed or flush will cycle the ABS and push out the tiny bit of fluid it hoards.
Not recommending anyone do it.
Though, lots who have ABS bikes and prefer to do their own maintenance do.
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
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Very Active Member
While on this subject.....has anyone installed Speed Bleeders?
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Member
I'm very interested in Speed Bleeders. I just bought my F3 and I doubt it ever had any service to the brake system (only had 2100 miles on it when I bought it). Anyone have an idea what size the bleed screws are? I'll happily be the guinea pig.
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Very Active Member
I have leaned that the best way to order Speed Bleeders and get the correct size(s) is to do it by phone. Had I not phoned the order when I had my last bike, I would have ordered incorrectly. Lesson learned.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by RICZ
I have leaned that the best way to order Speed Bleeders and get the correct size(s) is to do it by phone. Had I not phoned the order when I had my last bike, I would have ordered incorrectly. Lesson learned.
What year and model Spyder do you have? What was the correct Part Number you ordered?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by PMK
What year and model Spyder do you have? What was the correct Part Number you ordered?
I have yet to put Speed Bleeders on my 2017 F3L as I only had it since Feb. and only have 400+ miles on it due to life getting in the way. But I will be ordering (by phone) soon.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Very Active Member
does anyone have a part # for 2015 RT Speed Bleeder?
2015 RTS SE6 Special Series Red/Black w/Magnesium front fenders(bought in Nov. 2018 w/9,400 miles)
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Thinks out loud
How about if you had a bleed bottle with a check valve in it, for under $27.00?
It's a one person bleed system that works slick as a whistle.
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Jerbear
How about if you had a bleed bottle with a check valve in it, for under $27.00?
It's a one person bleed system that works slick as a whistle.
So are Speed Bleeders. I started working on my bikes and cars in 1952 and for decades, I could never get a really hard pedal or lever. Then I discovered that air seeps past the bleeder threads. Someone recommended Speed Bleeders because they not only have a check valve but also a substance on the threads that provides a seal when the bleeder is loosened. I tried them and have never looked back and got those hard pedals and levers I always wanted.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
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Thinks out loud
Identify what you have control over and find peace with what you don't.
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Originally Posted by Jeriatric
How about if you had a bleed bottle with a check valve in it, for under $27.00?
It's a one person bleed system that works slick as a whistle.
That sounds like a good idea. I ordered speed bleeders for my 2011 rt, but might make up a set up for other vehicles I have. My 2011 have 8mm bleeders and found 2 pairs on Amazon for 26.50 delivered, but the manufacturer doesn't have a 6mm for 2013 and later.
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I have speedbleeders on the 2012 RTL...however not on the VSS/ABS....I don't have BUDS....I'm good with about a 90% fluid exchange. The BUDS can measure hydraulic pressure as well as other factors-I've been corrected by purists on this matter that it is important since afterall ya need to stop and other systems are tied into this algorithm-but we all get to make our own decisions -some good some bad. I'm happy for the most part. I'm not happy in comparing my 2014 RTS Brembo brakes vs my 2012 RTL brakes....the early brakes in comparison are poor. I know both Lamonster and BAJARON support the idea that changing rotors and pads on the pre brembo SPYDERS brakes can help increase functionality. Well-I don't think they could possibly get any worse so there's that thought.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by davev1pa
I have speedbleeders on the 2012 RTL...however not on the VSS/ABS....I don't have BUDS....I'm good with about a 90% fluid exchange. The BUDS can measure hydraulic pressure as well as other factors-I've been corrected by purists on this matter that it is important since afterall ya need to stop and other systems are tied into this algorithm-but we all get to make our own decisions -some good some bad. I'm happy for the most part. I'm not happy in comparing my 2014 RTS Brembo brakes vs my 2012 RTL brakes....the early brakes in comparison are poor. I know both Lamonster and BAJARON support the idea that changing rotors and pads on the pre brembo SPYDERS brakes can help increase functionality. Well-I don't think they could possibly get any worse so there's that thought.
I assume that both yourself as well as Motorsicle realize that this is a 2 year old thread? just sayin.....
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Chilliwack, BC
Canada
You know when a politician is Lying. It's when his lips are moving!
2014 RTS-SE6 - Cognac
intro to m/c 1949 Royal Enfield 500cc thumper
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by davev1pa
I have speedbleeders on the 2012 RTL...however not on the VSS/ABS....I don't have BUDS....I'm good with about a 90% fluid exchange. The BUDS can measure hydraulic pressure as well as other factors-I've been corrected by purists on this matter that it is important since afterall ya need to stop and other systems are tied into this algorithm-but we all get to make our own decisions -some good some bad. I'm happy for the most part. I'm not happy in comparing my 2014 RTS Brembo brakes vs my 2012 RTL brakes....the early brakes in comparison are poor. I know both Lamonster and BAJARON support the idea that changing rotors and pads on the pre brembo SPYDERS brakes can help increase functionality. Well-I don't think they could possibly get any worse so there's that thought.
IMHO I doubt there is 10% of the brake fluid for the ABS portion of the system .... good luck .... Mike
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Very Active Member
I've used this https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0143 from Motion Pro for years and it works excellent.
2022 Petrol Metallic RT Limited / 'PYDER'
There's no place like G28 X0 Y0 Z0
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