ECU Flash

[larryd]

I must be the only one not noticing a difference between stock and Stage 1 and its been a year now, i first thought maybe it was a case of getting my ecu back without the flash but I lost my eco mode and I reved it higher than stock rpm limit so i know it got flashed. I even did a comparison with my cousin who is running stock and he actually pulls ahead all the time, he is 20lbs lighter but still.

I'm NOT sure which F3 models have the 89 T rear sprockets...But if yours has the 79 T sprocket and your cousin has the 89 T sprocket you'll NEVER keep up...

[donhy]

I'm NOT sure which F3 models have the 89 T rear sprockets...But if yours has the 79 T sprocket and your cousin has the 89 T sprocket you'll NEVER keep up...

Nope both identical except color, unless red color goes faster.

[308gunner]

I must be the only one not noticing a difference between stock and Stage 1 and its been a year now, i first thought maybe it was a case of getting my ecu back without the flash but I lost my eco mode and I reved it higher than stock rpm limit so i know it got flashed. I even did a comparison with my cousin who is running stock and he actually pulls ahead all the time, he is 20lbs lighter but still.

tell us more about your exhaust...is it factory or cat delete...if its a cat delete, what brand, and does it have a baffle?...give us more info.

[donhy]

tell us more about your exhaust...is it factory or cat delete...if its a cat delete, what brand, and does it have a baffle?...give us more info.

Stock exhaust.

[308gunner]

Stock exhaust.

Change out the factory exhaust..the tune needs to breathe...or at least remove the cat...I suggest the RLS cat delete with NO baffle..

[T.P.]

I must be the only one not noticing a difference between stock and Stage 1 and its been a year now,

According to Coleman at Wick-It your only looking at a 5/6 HP increase for a stage 1 flash. 8100rpm is the stock redline, did you do 8600 for redline after flash?

Maybe your BUTT DYNO isn't calibrated

T.P.

[donhy]

According to Coleman at Wick-It your only looking at a 5/6 HP increase for a stage 1 flash. 8100rpm is the stock redline, did you do 8600 for redline after flash?

Maybe your BUTT DYNO isn't calibrated

T.P.

Yes I hit the 8600 redline thats how i knew I got the flash, I wouldn't trust my butt dyno I was just going by comparison with another F3. I was under impression is more around 15 HP without needing a cat delete. If it's only 5/6 HP plus the weight difference and slight shifting variations between my cousin that could explain why he pulls ahead.

[308gunner]

Yes I hit the 8600 redline thats how i knew I got the flash, I wouldn't trust my butt dyno I was just going by comparison with another F3. I was under impression is more around 15 HP without needing a cat delete. If it's only 5/6 HP plus the weight difference and slight shifting variations between my cousin that could explain why he pulls ahead.

Don't forget also..the tune needs to breathe...swap out the cat with no baffle...it's not expensive...RLS!!

[donhy]

Don't forget also..the tune needs to breathe...swap out the cat with no baffle...it's not expensive...RLS!!

I have the RLS cat delete but I took it off as I couldnt stand the fuel smell. Loved the sound though it really sounded nice. I may give it another try and do another race with my cousin just to see the difference.

[fatboy]

i dont get the fuel smell are you sitting still with engine running alot

[donhy]

i dont get the fuel smell are you sitting still with engine running alot

No not sitting still, lot of people love the fuel smell and are used to from riding carburated two wheelers so you many not even notice it but it should be there if you are running it with stock exhaust.

[SNOOPY]

Those with the WickIt Stage II kit, what are they requiring to have done to the stock air box?

Mine has been totally removed and I have a round air filter over the throttle body.

.

[troop]

(2) 1" holes drilled into the cover, like this:

[Peter Aawen]

Those with the WickIt Stage II kit, what are they requiring to have done to the stock air box?

Mine has been totally removed and I have a round air filter over the throttle body.

.

Hey Snoopy, your air cleaner will do the necessary 'increase air flow/volume' job even better than those with just the 2 holes!!

[larryd]

Those with the WickIt Stage II kit, what are they requiring to have done to the stock air box?

Mine has been totally removed and I have a round air filter over the throttle body.

.

SNOOPY, is your ride a 998 or 1330...I've never seen a 1330 with that set up...Could you post a picture if its a 1330...THANK YOU, larryd

[AY4B]

Those with the WickIt Stage II kit, what are they requiring to have done to the stock air box?

Mine has been totally removed and I have a round air filter over the throttle body.

.

The form you need to fill out and send in has a place for what mods you currently have. Write it down there so Wick it will know your set up and make any changes to the tune if any. Sounds to me like you already have more air intake and could not send them the lid anyway because of your air box mod. If I were you, I would also call them to discuss any options.

[thereverend]

I want to do the ECU stage 1, but I can not figure out how to release the ECU from the connections. I have looked at the pictures and they are not specific, like exactly push this tab here.. I have a 2015 RTSE, I got the 3 screws out but can not get the lock tab to release... can someone take a picture with a flash and show me the exact place to put pressure on ?

[308gunner]

I want to do the ECU stage 1, but I can not figure out how to release the ECU from the connections. I have looked at the pictures and they are not specific, like exactly push this tab here.. I have a 2015 RTSE, I got the 3 screws out but can not get the lock tab to release... can someone take a picture with a flash and show me the exact place to put pressure on ?

the locking black tabs are located at the bottom of the two connectors..you PUSH them in while turning the lever at the same time unlocking the lever.

[thereverend]

do you have a picture? what do they look like?

[Peter Aawen]

They are the tiny black tabs in the middle of the cross bar on the cam-lock type fasteners. Once you see them, you really won't need a pic.... but if your 'close vision' is becoming anything like that of most of us as we age, you might need longer arms, or a magnifying glass!!

The tabs are quite small & insignificant looking, but they're right in the centre of the cross bar, and they REALLY WORK at stopping those fasteners from ever coming undone accidentally!!

Good Luck!

[juscuz]

I can't remember where a picture was just posted a few days ago. The releasing mechanism folks are talking are small oval shaped button type thingys. One under each locking tab or get a small mirror and look there. I feel your frustration, I looked over and over again and there they were right under the locking tabs. As I said earlier, they are very small and sort of oval shaped. You must push them in and the release tabs will move easily so you can pull the connectors away from the ECU.

[thereverend]

thank ya'll so much, I will look again.

[AY4B]

thank ya'll so much, I will look again.

With me I had to pull the ECU out as much as I could so I could turn it to be able to look at the end close up. the tab is in the end area and once you have it pushed in the lever will almost pop over buy itself. Once you figure out the first one, the second one is right behind it.

[troop]

I want to do the ECU stage 1, but I can not figure out how to release the ECU from the connections. I have looked at the pictures and they are not specific, like exactly push this tab here.. I have a 2015 RTSE, I got the 3 screws out but can not get the lock tab to release... can someone take a picture with a flash and show me the exact place to put pressure on ?

Didn't take long to want more from your PCV. That said, I doubt the Stage 1 mod will be much, if any, of an improvement over the PCV. Just get the Stage 2 and be done with it. No shoulda, woulda, coulda remorse...

[thereverend]

Ok, after turning the ECU upside down with the connection now on top and with a mirror, I found this mysterious oval shaped "button", kinda small, but I pushed it in and low and behold it was able to release the hold it had on the lock.....and took the advice and removed the filter top cover and sent in both items to wick-it in Shreveport. Thanks Ya'll