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Active Member
2018 RT Limited Fuse Block puzzling??
2018 Spyder RT LimitedRight Fuse Block Diagram.jpgRight Fuse Block.jpgLeft Fuse Block.jpgLeft Fuse Block Diagram.jpg
I am trying to familiarize myself with the 2 fuse blocks. Something weird caught my eyes right away. The numbering of the fuses, as F1, F2, ......F8 is reversed looking at the diagram compared to the fuse block. The diagram shows a normal numbering as having F1 starting on the left vs the fuse block having F1 starting on the right. Although the fuses position is correct. That is for the LEFT fuse block.
Right fuse block is concerning. Again, the numbering is reversed as for the left side, but the diagram shows a 5A fuse on position 7 (position 2 on the block) where there is no fuse at position 7 (2). Position 8 (1) labeled as NOT USED and that is OK. There was no fuse in there.
Back to position 7 (2) with no fuse, I decided to put a 10A fuse to see what is that suppose to cover. Got a light arc, which told me there is a load on that fuse. I knew I had the ignition OFF. Looked around and found my dashboard lit up as if the ignition was ON. Weird. I did not try to start the bike. I immediately removed the fuse. Checked the bike, started, all looks normal.
On the diagram, position 7 is labeled as DC PLUGS VBAT. Position 6 is labeled as DC PLUGS VKEY. Again, there is no fuse at position 7.
Used a voltmeter at position 6 and position 7 and I get full voltage, with or without ignition. I am trying to find a fuse that energize with ignition ON and no voltage with ignition OFF.
Any help is appreciated
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Very Active Member
Why don't you try pg 143-144 of your operator's guide.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
well now.....SPUT !
you are sooo lucky that you can successfully goof around with your fuse block
and still have your Spyder run.
I ran my 2014 a long time and never had occasion to look at fuses.
I fully expect my 2017 to work the same way.
I would just rather ryde.
Flatlander, Navy Veteran, Widower
Loved my 2014 RTS SE6 Pearl white
but have a new love now,
my 2017 RTS SE6 Champagne metallic (Champ)
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Active Member
Originally Posted by JayBros
Why don't you try pg 143-144 of your operator's guide.
Oh, I did.. It doesn't tell me anything. Page 143, Position 7 on the right fuse block shows a 5A fuse. There is NO fuse at position 7 on my fuse block. If I put a fuse at position 7, it lights up the dashboard. Any idea?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by mbenazeraf
Oh, I did.. It doesn't tell me anything. Page 143, Position 7 on the right fuse block shows a 5A fuse. There is NO fuse at position 7 on my fuse block. If I put a fuse at position 7, it lights up the dashboard. Any idea?
On page 143, there’s a Note under the right fuse block diagram. The intent is that the fuse is installed in EITHER the F6 or F7 position, depending on if you want the power outlets live all the time, or if you want them switched with the key. You don’t put fuses in both spots at the same time. And yeah, there’s no clear warning not to do that....but that’s the intent. The machine comes from the factory with the fuse installed in F6. You can move it. The manual shows it in F7 for reference.
Otherwise, you ignore the fuse numbering that’s molded into the plastic fuse box itself, and go by the manual and label inside the cover for the correct numbering. My guess is that the numbers molded into the plastic are the pin numbers for the box connections, and make more sense when they are connecting up the harness to the rear of the box.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 05-28-2018 at 01:52 PM.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder
On page 143, there’s a Note under the right fuse block diagram. The intent is that the fuse is installed in EITHER the F6 or F7 position, depending on if you want the power outlets live all the time, or if you want them switched with the key. You don’t put fuses in both spots at the same time. And yeah, there’s no clear warning not to do that....but that’s the intent. The machine comes from the factory with the fuse installed in F6. You can move it. The manual shows it in F7 for reference.
Otherwise, you ignore the fuse numbering that’s molded into the plastic fuse box itself, and go by the manual and label inside the cover for the correct numbering. My guess is that the numbers molded into the plastic are the pin numbers for the box connections, and make more sense when they are connecting up the harness to the rear of the box.
Thanks for the info. It makes more sens now.
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Very Active Member
That's why I suggested you look at the respective pages so you would find the note about the keyed vs always hot option in fuses 6 and 7. The operator's guide is a good friend.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Active Member
Originally Posted by 4 MARIE
well now.....SPUT !
you are sooo lucky that you can successfully goof around with your fuse block
and still have your Spyder run.
I ran my 2014 a long time and never had occasion to look at fuses.
I fully expect my 2017 to work the same way.
I would just rather ryde.
Thanks for the compliment. My Spyder, I think I'm gone name her "Blondie", still run just fine and did what I attempted to do anyway.
Thank you to Snowbelt Spyder.
Last edited by Bigmo; 05-28-2018 at 03:04 PM.
Reason: Typo..
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V Bat = always hot
V Key = keyed power key must be on
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
Awesome and Timely Information! As always, SpyderLovers is the best place for hard to find information. (other than the owners manual - but we won't mention that!)
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