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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by HayRog View Post


    Frunk release.
    Pic 1 -- direction the wire takes from lever down to the inspection panel.
    pic 2 -- behind inspection panel, the key ring barely visible, attached by a mini clip.
    pic 3 -- how the wire attaches to the lever

    ignore the two pics below !
    I dunno...fishing line...I'm not seeing a clinch knot or surgeon's knot there...

    Thanks for the pics. What did you use for the outer casing?
    2014 RTL Platinum


  2. #27
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default HIDDEN SEAT RE-LEASE

    Quote Originally Posted by HayRog View Post
    Seat release


    pic 1 -- end of fishing line, tied to a key ring, cinched by a white cable tie and dropped into bottom right corner of glove box. Hidden when lid is down.
    pic 2 -- direction of fishing line from glove box and down through a hole I drilled to the left of the dip stick.
    pic 3 -- fishing line attached, knotted and knot fixed with superglue, to the seat release lever.

    To release seat, remove line from glove box and bring in line with bottom front of seat -- pull to the right -- viola!!

    don't know how two of those pics made it to the above post also -- pilot error
    ....Nice job ... I have a Gas Door & I did what you did, but put the wire near the gas cap ( behind the locked door )............. Mike

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    ....Nice job ... I have a Gas Door & I did what you did, but put the wire near the gas cap ( behind the locked door )............. Mike
    Okay, now I'm confused. Isn't the gas cap on the opposite side of the bike from the seat latch release?
    2014 RTL Platinum


  4. #29
    Very Active Member wmh9680's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    The long side panels have to be loosened at the front so that the screw holding that center panel can be removed (it's hidden). Then there are two screws underneath the center panel and then the obvious ones at the mirror. Hope that helps.
    Can you post pics? I have the snap swivel attached but can't get it closed with the center panel on. Thanks, Mike
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  5. #30
    Very Active Member HayRog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    I dunno...fishing line...I'm not seeing a clinch knot or surgeon's knot there...

    Thanks for the pics. What did you use for the outer casing?
    The outer casing is telephone internal wiring, with the 4 wires inside removed.
    DSCF8322.jpg

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmh9680 View Post
    Can you post pics? I have the snap swivel attached but can't get it closed with the center panel on. Thanks, Mike
    Watch this video. I think it will help answer your questions.

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  7. #32
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default SEAT LATCH RE-LEASE & GAS DOOR

    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Okay, now I'm confused. Isn't the gas cap on the opposite side of the bike from the seat latch release?
    You are correct.... I drilled a tiny hole next to the gas Cap and fished a thin wire under the glove box to the area just forward of the seat latch ... I then attached the wire to the latch arm ..... since the gas cap is closer to the front of the bike than the latch .... the angle allowed the wire to pull open the latch .....all these methods work the same way, they are a little different in the way the wire travels to the latch ..... Mike .........PS - Kudos to the member who discovered the Telephone wire , that is very strong stuff, very thin, flexible yet stiff enough to feed thru blind area,s .............I was going to suggest using it, but not all have access to it ..... Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 05-31-2018 at 12:46 PM.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    You are correct.... I drilled a tiny hole next to the gas Cap and fished a thin wire under the glove box to the area just forward of the seat latch ... I then attached the wire to the latch arm ..... since the gas cap is closer to the front of the bike than the latch .... the angle allowed the wire to pull open the latch .....all these methods work the same way, they are a little different in the way the wire goes ..... Mike
    Got it. Thanks Mike.
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  9. #34
    Very Active Member wmh9680's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    Watch this video. I think it will help answer your questions.

    Thanks, I'm slowly but surely learning how to take her apart, once when I was played up from knee surgery I removed the carbs on my Virago and stripped em down and cleaned em,
    2014 RT Limited Matte Silver, Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars,
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmh9680 View Post
    Thanks, I'm slowly but surely learning how to take her apart, once when I was played up from knee surgery I removed the carbs on my Virago and stripped em down and cleaned em,
    It's best not to tackle it the first time when you're under time pressure. I just took these pics today of the headlight surround removal. The trick is to get at that bolt that's out of sight underneath the front of the side panel.

    Headlight surround hidden bolt.jpg In this one, I've removed the hidden bolt and pulled the surround slightly forward so you can see how the various panels are secured at that location.

    Headlight surround removed.jpg
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    Last edited by UtahPete; 05-31-2018 at 02:14 PM.
    2014 RTL Platinum


  11. #36
    Very Active Member wmh9680's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahPete View Post
    It's best not to tackle it the first time when you're under time pressure. I just took these pics today of the headlight surround removal. The trick is to get at that bolt that's out of sight underneath the front of the side panel.

    Headlight surround hidden bolt.jpg In this one, I've removed the hidden bolt and pulled the surround slightly forward so you can see how the various panels are secured at that location.

    Headlight surround removed.jpg
    Thanks, I got her all apart and was able to attach the wire and she works. I also drill a hole thru the bottom/side of the glove box and ran a wire from the seat lock into the glove box and put a key-ring on it.
    2014 RT Limited Matte Silver, Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars,
    Will it ever stop--NO

  12. #37
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    Default Another idea...

    You could just get a generic key cut (no transponder) and slide it under the passenger footrest rubber pad. That way, nobody can steal your Spyder (won't start with that key), but you can still unlock the trunk if you leave your keys in your heavy pants and you change into lighter clothes because the sun finally came out.

    (Don't ask me how I know this works.)

    I had mine in that spot on my old Spyder for 7 years and it never moved...
    Regards-

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  13. #38
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default your answer

    Quote Originally Posted by FrankPa View Post
    You could just get a generic key cut (no transponder) and slide it under the passenger footrest rubber pad. That way, nobody can steal your Spyder (won't start with that key), but you can still unlock the trunk if you leave your keys in your heavy pants and you change into lighter clothes because the sun finally came out.

    (Don't ask me how I know this works.)

    I had mine in that spot on my old Spyder for 7 years and it never moved...
    I think you missed the point of this Thread ...... WE ( me and a lot of others ) don't want to use the Ignition switch for opening Anything .....if / when yours breaks and you get charged $400 or so to fix it ....the spare Key thing won't seem to be as good an idea as once thought ....... Mike

  14. #39
    Very Active Member wmh9680's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankPa View Post
    You could just get a generic key cut (no transponder) and slide it under the passenger footrest rubber pad. That way, nobody can steal your Spyder (won't start with that key), but you can still unlock the trunk if you leave your keys in your heavy pants and you change into lighter clothes because the sun finally came out.

    (Don't ask me how I know this works.)

    I had mine in that spot on my old Spyder for 7 years and it never moved...
    Thanks, I have 3 generic keys. It was the generic key that I had in the ignition trying to open the trunk and seat with it in the ignition and it got stuck there.
    2014 RT Limited Matte Silver, Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars,
    Will it ever stop--NO

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmh9680 View Post
    After getting locked out this weekend I want to stop using the key for frunk access and seat access. I have attached 2 pics of the frunk lock. The cable pulls from the right to trip the lock open. What is the best/easyest way to run a cable and where to? Seen and heard diff ways. Just wanna make it as simple as possible. Thanks, Mike
    You can also use a 1/4" dowel to reach in and push the lock open. You can lift the frunk lid enough to reach in with a dowel. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it just right, but still pretty easy. Play with it first with the lid open and when it's in place hold it and lower the lid. Then mark on the dowel how far it has to go in to make contact.

    Unlock frunk 1.jpg Unlock frunk 2.jpg Unlock frunk 3.jpg

    This is shown on the 2013 RT I had but it would be same for other models.

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  16. #41
    Very Active Member wmh9680's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    You can also use a 1/4" dowel to reach in and push the lock open. You can lift the frunk lid enough to reach in with a dowel. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it just right, but still pretty easy. Play with it first with the lid open and when it's in place hold it and lower the lid. Then mark on the dowel how far it has to go in to make contact.

    Unlock frunk 1.jpg Unlock frunk 2.jpg Unlock frunk 3.jpg

    This is shown on the 2013 RT I had but it would be same for other models.

    Thanks, I will have to try that. Mike
    2014 RT Limited Matte Silver, Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars,
    Will it ever stop--NO

  17. #42
    Active Member Tatonka's Avatar
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    I like those ideas and will try something as starting to have intermittent problems...but...how do you get it open if locked out?

  18. #43
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatonka View Post
    I like those ideas and will try something as starting to have intermittent problems...but...how do you get it open if locked out?
    See the posts just above yours. You can lift the lid enough to get the dowel in there to reach the lock.

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  19. #44
    Active Member Tatonka's Avatar
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    Yes, I saw that....any other options I wonder.

  20. #45
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatonka View Post
    Yes, I saw that....any other options I wonder.
    None that easy and straightforward that I know of. I suppose you could connect a cable to the latch like the one going to the ignition but I don't right off hand where the best routing for it would be. You could get a solenoid like was used on the 2013 & earlier RTs and come up with some wiring so you can power it to pull the lock lever open.

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  21. #46
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    You can also use a 1/4" dowel to reach in and push the lock open. You can lift the frunk lid enough to reach in with a dowel. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it just right, but still pretty easy. Play with it first with the lid open and when it's in place hold it and lower the lid. Then mark on the dowel how far it has to go in to make contact.

    Unlock frunk 1.jpg Unlock frunk 2.jpg Unlock frunk 3.jpg

    This is shown on the 2013 RT I had but it would be same for other models.
    I have a 2014 RT but it is the same as yours ….. I tried pushing that area ( shown above ) with my thumb - it caused a lot of pain …. pushing that small lever gives you no leverage ….. Everyone who views this method should try it on their own Spyder ….. I have opened a few RT hoods with a thin flat piece of steel stock, but came in from the other side and had to go under the Blk plastic cover to get to the large lever ( that can't be seen here …… good luck everyone ….. Mike

  22. #47
    Active Member Tatonka's Avatar
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    Right...there is no easy way to get to the mechanism without removing the black panels and you need the trunk open to do that as well as taking off other panels.....I think doing some kind of redundant option need to be done.....maybe the next time I can actually open it��

  23. #48
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Preventative maintenance i.e. Clean latches and lubricate every 3-4 months and adjust the mechanism when needed. Cables stretch and need to be adjusted on occasion. Cable may need to be cleaned with bicycle cable cleaner if needed. This is not failsafe but will save you a lot of head aches and need to install makeshift secondary cables. I do this to all my latches on frunk, seat, side bags and trunk lid on a regular basis and have had good luck on both Spyder's.

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  24. #49
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatonka View Post
    Right...there is no easy way to get to the mechanism without removing the black panels and you need the trunk open to do that as well as taking off other panels.....I think doing some kind of redundant option need to be done.....maybe the next time I can actually open it��
    Well actually you don't need to have the Frunk open …. I've done four successfully by going in from the right side ( as seated on the bike )…. that panel can be lifted ( not easy ) and a rod slid under the panel..... The Bent end of the latch is has 5 x's the area of contact than the front part of the lever ….. just sayin ….. Mike

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