Frunk release.
Pic 1 -- direction the wire takes from lever down to the inspection panel.
pic 2 -- behind inspection panel, the key ring barely visible, attached by a mini clip.
pic 3 -- how the wire attaches to the lever
ignore the two pics below !
I dunno...fishing line...I'm not seeing a clinch knot or surgeon's knot there...
Thanks for the pics. What did you use for the outer casing?
pic 1 -- end of fishing line, tied to a key ring, cinched by a white cable tie and dropped into bottom right corner of glove box. Hidden when lid is down.
pic 2 -- direction of fishing line from glove box and down through a hole I drilled to the left of the dip stick.
pic 3 -- fishing line attached, knotted and knot fixed with superglue, to the seat release lever.
To release seat, remove line from glove box and bring in line with bottom front of seat -- pull to the right -- viola!!
don't know how two of those pics made it to the above post also -- pilot error
....Nice job ... I have a Gas Door & I did what you did, but put the wire near the gas cap ( behind the locked door )............. Mike
The long side panels have to be loosened at the front so that the screw holding that center panel can be removed (it's hidden). Then there are two screws underneath the center panel and then the obvious ones at the mirror. Hope that helps.
Can you post pics? I have the snap swivel attached but can't get it closed with the center panel on. Thanks, Mike
2014 RT Limited Matte Silver,Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars, Will it ever stop--NO
Okay, now I'm confused. Isn't the gas cap on the opposite side of the bike from the seat latch release?
You are correct.... I drilled a tiny hole next to the gas Cap and fished a thin wire under the glove box to the area just forward of the seat latch ... I then attached the wire to the latch arm ..... since the gas cap is closer to the front of the bike than the latch .... the angle allowed the wire to pull open the latch .....all these methods work the same way, they are a little different in the way the wire travels to the latch ..... Mike .........PS - Kudos to the member who discovered the Telephone wire , that is very strong stuff, very thin, flexible yet stiff enough to feed thru blind area,s .............I was going to suggest using it, but not all have access to it ..... Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 05-31-2018 at 12:46 PM.
You are correct.... I drilled a tiny hole next to the gas Cap and fished a thin wire under the glove box to the area just forward of the seat latch ... I then attached the wire to the latch arm ..... since the gas cap is closer to the front of the bike than the latch .... the angle allowed the wire to pull open the latch .....all these methods work the same way, they are a little different in the way the wire goes ..... Mike
Watch this video. I think it will help answer your questions.
Thanks, I'm slowly but surely learning how to take her apart, once when I was played up from knee surgery I removed the carbs on my Virago and stripped em down and cleaned em,
2014 RT Limited Matte Silver,Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars, Will it ever stop--NO
Thanks, I'm slowly but surely learning how to take her apart, once when I was played up from knee surgery I removed the carbs on my Virago and stripped em down and cleaned em,
It's best not to tackle it the first time when you're under time pressure. I just took these pics today of the headlight surround removal. The trick is to get at that bolt that's out of sight underneath the front of the side panel.
Headlight surround hidden bolt.jpg In this one, I've removed the hidden bolt and pulled the surround slightly forward so you can see how the various panels are secured at that location.
It's best not to tackle it the first time when you're under time pressure. I just took these pics today of the headlight surround removal. The trick is to get at that bolt that's out of sight underneath the front of the side panel.
Headlight surround hidden bolt.jpg In this one, I've removed the hidden bolt and pulled the surround slightly forward so you can see how the various panels are secured at that location.
Thanks, I got her all apart and was able to attach the wire and she works. I also drill a hole thru the bottom/side of the glove box and ran a wire from the seat lock into the glove box and put a key-ring on it.
2014 RT Limited Matte Silver,Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars, Will it ever stop--NO
You could just get a generic key cut (no transponder) and slide it under the passenger footrest rubber pad. That way, nobody can steal your Spyder (won't start with that key), but you can still unlock the trunk if you leave your keys in your heavy pants and you change into lighter clothes because the sun finally came out.
(Don't ask me how I know this works.)
I had mine in that spot on my old Spyder for 7 years and it never moved...
You could just get a generic key cut (no transponder) and slide it under the passenger footrest rubber pad. That way, nobody can steal your Spyder (won't start with that key), but you can still unlock the trunk if you leave your keys in your heavy pants and you change into lighter clothes because the sun finally came out.
(Don't ask me how I know this works.)
I had mine in that spot on my old Spyder for 7 years and it never moved...
I think you missed the point of this Thread ...... WE ( me and a lot of others ) don't want to use the Ignition switch for opening Anything .....if / when yours breaks and you get charged $400 or so to fix it ....the spare Key thing won't seem to be as good an idea as once thought ....... Mike
You could just get a generic key cut (no transponder) and slide it under the passenger footrest rubber pad. That way, nobody can steal your Spyder (won't start with that key), but you can still unlock the trunk if you leave your keys in your heavy pants and you change into lighter clothes because the sun finally came out.
(Don't ask me how I know this works.)
I had mine in that spot on my old Spyder for 7 years and it never moved...
Thanks, I have 3 generic keys. It was the generic key that I had in the ignition trying to open the trunk and seat with it in the ignition and it got stuck there.
2014 RT Limited Matte Silver,Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars, Will it ever stop--NO
After getting locked out this weekend I want to stop using the key for frunk access and seat access. I have attached 2 pics of the frunk lock. The cable pulls from the right to trip the lock open. What is the best/easyest way to run a cable and where to? Seen and heard diff ways. Just wanna make it as simple as possible. Thanks, Mike
You can also use a 1/4" dowel to reach in and push the lock open. You can lift the frunk lid enough to reach in with a dowel. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it just right, but still pretty easy. Play with it first with the lid open and when it's in place hold it and lower the lid. Then mark on the dowel how far it has to go in to make contact.
This is shown on the 2013 RT I had but it would be same for other models.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
You can also use a 1/4" dowel to reach in and push the lock open. You can lift the frunk lid enough to reach in with a dowel. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it just right, but still pretty easy. Play with it first with the lid open and when it's in place hold it and lower the lid. Then mark on the dowel how far it has to go in to make contact.
I like those ideas and will try something as starting to have intermittent problems...but...how do you get it open if locked out?
See the posts just above yours. You can lift the lid enough to get the dowel in there to reach the lock.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
None that easy and straightforward that I know of. I suppose you could connect a cable to the latch like the one going to the ignition but I don't right off hand where the best routing for it would be. You could get a solenoid like was used on the 2013 & earlier RTs and come up with some wiring so you can power it to pull the lock lever open.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
You can also use a 1/4" dowel to reach in and push the lock open. You can lift the frunk lid enough to reach in with a dowel. It takes a bit of trial and error to get it just right, but still pretty easy. Play with it first with the lid open and when it's in place hold it and lower the lid. Then mark on the dowel how far it has to go in to make contact.
This is shown on the 2013 RT I had but it would be same for other models.
I have a 2014 RT but it is the same as yours ….. I tried pushing that area ( shown above ) with my thumb - it caused a lot of pain …. pushing that small lever gives you no leverage ….. Everyone who views this method should try it on their own Spyder ….. I have opened a few RT hoods with a thin flat piece of steel stock, but came in from the other side and had to go under the Blk plastic cover to get to the large lever ( that can't be seen here …… good luck everyone ….. Mike
Right...there is no easy way to get to the mechanism without removing the black panels and you need the trunk open to do that as well as taking off other panels.....I think doing some kind of redundant option need to be done.....maybe the next time I can actually open it
Preventative maintenance i.e. Clean latches and lubricate every 3-4 months and adjust the mechanism when needed. Cables stretch and need to be adjusted on occasion. Cable may need to be cleaned with bicycle cable cleaner if needed. This is not failsafe but will save you a lot of head aches and need to install makeshift secondary cables. I do this to all my latches on frunk, seat, side bags and trunk lid on a regular basis and have had good luck on both Spyder's.
Jack
All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
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Right...there is no easy way to get to the mechanism without removing the black panels and you need the trunk open to do that as well as taking off other panels.....I think doing some kind of redundant option need to be done.....maybe the next time I can actually open it��
Well actually you don't need to have the Frunk open …. I've done four successfully by going in from the right side ( as seated on the bike )…. that panel can be lifted ( not easy ) and a rod slid under the panel..... The Bent end of the latch is has 5 x's the area of contact than the front part of the lever ….. just sayin ….. Mike