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Active Member
Electrical issue w/ New LaMonster Bright Ryder
These lights have to be defective but, this is weird. First, I tested the unit across the battery terminals and no problem. I had a light there before (sorta yellow or warmer and I didn't like it) so, I peeled it off and used the same wiring (checked with a volt meter). No light...what? Back to the terminals, no light. About 5 minutes later, light! Both on the terminals and the wire previously used. So, I installed the new light...no light again. Being very annoyed I waited till today and still no light, including across the terminals. LED's are generally super reliable but there must be a bad connection. Can you think of anything else I could try before returning them?
Thanks!
2016 F3T Limited
F4 Windshield, LaMonster backrest, headlights, foglights with rings, Long Horn mirror lights, saddle bag and fender lights, swaybar, cat bypass, Centrtonics balancers, Fobo, Baker hand and lower wings, laser alignment, Dual power plate,Givi E47 center bag, Sensa 20s, Pitbull highway riding pegs, Tricled highway lights, empty bank account
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
I'm sorry if this might seem a bit obvious Neal, but like you, I'm sorta clutching at straws here to try & guess what else it could be.... is there ANY chance you got the wires crossed between the working & not working episodes, so when they are not working the polarity of the LED connection is wrong??
For those who might not realise, LED's only work with the polarity one way - if you swap the + & - terminals, they just don't work; but put em back the right way, & suddenly you've got light again!! Generally, getting the polarity on an LED or LED string wrong shouldn't hurt, they just don't work when connected the wrong way, but do again when connected the right way! Do you really need to ask me how I know it's bloody easy to get the wires crossed.... repeatedly; giving the 'works when tested, but not when installed' result!!
Apart from that, I got nuthin'
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Active Member
YOU DA MAN!!
Bingo! I did not know about the polarity issue. It's a wonder any of my other LEDs work!
Thank you so much!
2016 F3T Limited
F4 Windshield, LaMonster backrest, headlights, foglights with rings, Long Horn mirror lights, saddle bag and fender lights, swaybar, cat bypass, Centrtonics balancers, Fobo, Baker hand and lower wings, laser alignment, Dual power plate,Givi E47 center bag, Sensa 20s, Pitbull highway riding pegs, Tricled highway lights, empty bank account
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Double check the wiring
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
I'm sorry if this might seem a bit obvious Neal, but like you, I'm sorta clutching at straws here to try & guess what else it could be.... is there ANY chance you got the wires crossed between the working & not working episodes, so when they are not working the polarity of the LED connection is wrong??
For those who might not realise, LED's only work with the polarity one way - if you swap the + & - terminals, they just don't work; but put em back the right way, & suddenly you've got light again!! Generally, getting the polarity on an LED or LED string wrong shouldn't hurt, they just don't work when connected the wrong way, but do again when connected the right way! Do you really need to ask me how I know it's bloody easy to get the wires crossed.... repeatedly; giving the 'works when tested, but not when installed' result!!
Apart from that, I got nuthin'
You might think it might be the obvious, but I did exactly that when installing the fender blinker lights. Lights worked, but not when I tried using the blinker. It was not until I removed the other fender light in preparation to send it back that I realized my hooking the wires wrong, so it is pretty easy to do.
Is it Friday yet? ... Oh yeah, I forgot. I'm retired
Past bikes
2010 RS - Sold
2012 RT - Sold
2014 RT - Testing completed
2016 F3-T Audio package - Sold
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Very Active Member
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
There you have it....
They really should put flagged tips on the LED wires + and -- cause this happens a lot.. Glad Peter got you fixed up...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Active Member
So started reading and thought...polarity, but everyone beat me to it !. Like Chupuca said, be nice if they were flagged. I actually flag mine, check them across a battery and label the wires so when I install I do it right, way too easy to screw it up otherwise. Glad you're fixed up!
Current: "Scarlett", 2017 Can Am F3-T, SE6, Intense Red Pearl.
BRP heated grips, DIY brake light strip and turn signal strips, Chrome/LED brake light tag frame, SpyderPops bumpskid, Baja Ron swaybar and billet links, Lamonster Third Peg, BRP Adjustable Passenger Backrest, SpyderPops Missing Belt Guard, ShowChrome oversize brake pedal, TricLED foglights.
Previous: "Synthia", 2014 Can Am Spyder RT, SM6, Pearl White.
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