Trailer to haul the Spyder

[shroth]

Tried to do my homework before I got a trailer to haul the Spyder between Western NY & the Outer Banks of NC. Ended up with a Triton GU10 which is 5.5' wide by 10' long. It's all aluminum except for the treated plywood decking. Total weight is 370lbs.

Here's some pictures. I know I didn't secure it properly but it was a 6 mile test run....the 650 mile trip will be different & the F4 windshield will be removed.

1...2...3...go......here comes the remarks!! 20180427_165448.jpg20180427_165424.jpg20180427_165604.jpg

[Gldwnger]

I see no need to remove windshield since you will be loading it forward.Good looking trailer though.

[Deanna777]

Here is a suggestion for securing a spyder on a trailer: run/put a strap on the center of the rear tire, and run the strap under your spyder( so you don't scratch your spyder's tupperware) and secure it to the front of your trailer.


Sorry no pictures.

Blueknight911( mike) has done this. Send him a pm. He can help you.

Deanna

[shroth]

I see no need to remove windshield since you will be loading it forward.Good looking trailer though.

I figured taking the windshield off would protect it while increasing the gas mileage

[shroth]

Here is a suggestion for securing a spyder on a trailer: run/put a strap on the center of the rear tire, and run the strap under your spyder( so you don't scratch your spyder's tupperware) and secure it to the front of your trailer.


Sorry no pictures.

Blueknight911( mike) has done this. Send him a pm. He can help you.

Deanna

Thanks

[Brentc]

I see no need to remove windshield since you will be loading it forward.Good looking trailer though.

i vote for leave windshield on. Good looking trailer though.

[Mazo EMS2]

Nahhh, leave the windshield on. And Deanna is referring to how I tie ours down. Not sure what you have in mind but I use a single ratchet strap over each tire, in the travel direction. I have loops directly in front of, and behind each wheel mounted on the deck of the trailer. Ratchet all 3 down tight and the Spyder won't wiggle a bit, AND you don't touch any paint or tupperware securing it. I use a utility trailer too....I use it for all sorts of trailering.... It's loaded right now.....we leave in the morning for Spyderfest

[Deanna777]

Nahhh, leave the windshield on. And Deanna is referring to how I tie ours down. Not sure what you have in mind but I use a single ratchet strap over each tire, in the travel direction. I have loops directly in front of, and behind each wheel mounted on the deck of the trailer. Ratchet all 3 down tight and the Spyder won't wiggle a bit, AND you don't touch any paint or tupperware securing it. I use a utility trailer too....I use it for all sorts of trailering.... It's loaded right now.....we leave in the morning for Spyderfest

The spyder tie down that I was referring to does work. I'll send you a pm.

Deanna

[UtahPete]

I see no need to remove windshield since you will be loading it forward.Good looking trailer though.

unless you're planning to haul it faster than you ride it!

[UtahPete]

I figured taking the windshield off would protect it while increasing the gas mileage

Pretty unlikely.

[UtahPete]

Nahhh, leave the windshield on. And Deanna is referring to how I tie ours down. Not sure what you have in mind but I use a single ratchet strap over each tire, in the travel direction. I have loops directly in front of, and behind each wheel mounted on the deck of the trailer. Ratchet all 3 down tight and the Spyder won't wiggle a bit, AND you don't touch any paint or tupperware securing it. I use a utility trailer too....I use it for all sorts of trailering.... It's loaded right now.....we leave in the morning for Spyderfest

This is the ideal way to do it if you don't have the proper front wheel chocks (which also stop the front end from hopping side to side).

[bushrat]

Just a comment or two about tie-downs. I'm a firm believer in using extra 'back-up' restraints, even if it seems like 'overkill' - better safe than sorry! Use a separate tie-down for each wheel. Fasten them so that your rear tie-down pulls your Spyder toward the back of your trailer, and the front tie-downs pull toward the front. That way, your load can't move either forward or back while in motion. I then use a secondary 'back-up' tie-down at the rear and another in front. If anything let's go out on the highway, I have safety lines. On my way back north from Florida in early April, I had my main rear tie-down let go (not sure why, but it did); I discovered this while at a rest stop. Thankfully, I still had a 'solid' load because of my secondary strap; a good reason why I will continue to 'over-do' my tie-downs.

Looking at your pics, I suspect you have a bit of space (an inch or two) between your front tires and the sidewalls of your trailer. I would suggest placing a small block of wood (2 x 2 or 2 x 4) between the tires and each sidewall - wedge them in. This will prevent your Spyder from 'creeping' sideways, which could result in your front fenders rubbing against the trailer side rails, which would leave ugly scars if it ever happens. Just make sure the blocks are not as high as your wheel rims and don't rub against them.

Be sure to check your tie-downs at every rest and/or gas stop. You'll be surprised at how they can loosen when underway. It's a good rule to check them about 15 minutes after you leave home, then at your breaks. Do a 'circle check' and test your lighting system at the same time. Climate, temperature and weather changes can all have an effect on strap tension as you move from one area to another. Loads can shift and creep, especially if you have to make a sudden stop or take evasive action, and this is magnified by slack tie-downs. Your loading ramp comes up high behind your Spyder; make very certain that it can't fold further forward and contact your bike if you have to make a sudden stop. You don't need that ramp whacking your ryde.

Have fun. Be safe.

[NewYorkSpyder]

Couldn't find pictures to show it but I have a 6X10 Aluma and I bolted a 4X4 across front of the wheels and put two "I"'s on the front of it and strapped each wheel individually to it ran straps thru socks to keep from scratching the wheels. Should show in my prior posts on this subject.

[Tomline]

I had a trailer that I used to haul my 03 Honda VTX 1300(pre Spyder) back & forth from Maine to Clearwater,FL every Fall & Spring. My trailer was 6' by 10' and a "Low Boy" that made loading much easier. The only thing I added was a piece of 3/8" pressure treated plywood 4 ft tall to the front of the trailer to act as a Dirt & stone guard. I used it for 11 years with no problems. If it changed the air & changed the "drag" & mpg of my minivan I didn't notice it. By the time I bought my Spyder I had up graded to a Chevy Silverado and a 7' by 14' enclosed aluminum trailer. But think about the plywood mod.

[Eviltwin]

Nice trailer. I'm in the process of setting up an Aluma trailer for the same purpose. I had a local shop fab up some wheel chocks for the front wheels since I want to make sure I keep the tongue wt the same all the time and keep the bike centered on the trailer.

IMG_20180422_151021441_HDR.jpg IMG_20180422_151012409_HDR.jpg

[robtdonna]

Certainly up to you, but aerodynamically, as large as it is that pick-em-up should be flowing air over the SpYder .

Nice trailer, will come in useful for many things I'm sure.

I figured taking the windshield off would protect it while increasing the gas mileage

[CA Railwhale]

If you are worried about damage from stuff being thrown up by your towing vehicle, go to a custom upholstery shop and have them make you a bra for the Spyder. I had one made that covers the front of the bike and has separate pants for the wheels. It wasn't terribly expensive, about five hundred bucks if I remember correctly.

[StickerPatch]

Tried to do my homework before I got a trailer to haul the Spyder between Western NY & the Outer Banks of NC. Ended up with a Triton GU10 which is 5.5' wide by 10' long. It's all aluminum except for the treated plywood decking. Total weight is 370lbs.

Here's some pictures. I know I didn't secure it properly but it was a 6 mile test run....the 650 mile trip will be different & the F4 windshield will be removed.

1...2...3...go......here comes the remarks!! 20180427_165448.jpg20180427_165424.jpg20180427_165604.jpg

Have Triton for my Polaris RZR the same size and will use it Friday to pick up a CanAm F3..mine has an aluminum floor with lots of tie downs and slots for front wheels..

[OKey]

Nice trailer. I'm in the process of setting up an Aluma trailer for the same purpose. I had a local shop fab up some wheel chocks for the front wheels since I want to make sure I keep the tongue wt the same all the time and keep the bike centered on the trailer.

IMG_20180422_151021441_HDR.jpg IMG_20180422_151012409_HDR.jpg

sweet!!!! Love the idea.

[Big F]

[QUOTE=shroth;1356134]Tried to do my homework before I got a trailer to haul the Spyder between Western NY & the Outer Banks of NC. Ended up with a Triton GU10 which is 5.5' wide by 10' long. It's all aluminum except for the treated plywood decking. Total weight is 370lbs.

Here's some pictures. I know I didn't secure it properly but it was a 6 mile test run....the 650 mile trip will be different & the F4 windshield will be removed.

1...2...3...go......here comes the remarks!! 20180427_165448.jpg20180427_165424.jpg20180427_165604.jpg[/QUOTE
I recently bought the exact same size from Tractor Supply. has top side rails and a bit different tail gate. just wondering what your trailer cost? mine was $1750 after a bit of negotiating... same weight with wood treated floor also. do have a small issue with the middle hinge on the tailgate as my Spyder drags/hangs up if I am not on a bit of incline?? really like the minimal weight issue going down the highway..
BIG F

[ofdave]

I figured taking the windshield off would protect it while increasing the gas mileage

you'll have more drag from the tailgate/ramp than from the spyder
Nice trailer, remember to check all straps soon after starting out and again at every fuel stop.