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Very Active Member
Rear brake pad change caution
When I took my rear tire off last week to change it I of course ended up with the brake caliper hanging loose. For some reason before I could the new tire on the pads closed up. In trying to push them apart I saw the pads were badly worn out. One was almost paper thin. Rather than just wait and do nothing while I waited to get new pads I decided to just pull them out and put the caliper back in place. That way I could get the belt aligned and the axle nut torqued.
I got the new pads today so I took the caliper off the bracket to install the new pads. I tried using needle nose pliers to turn the piston back in. Yes, you do turn it clockwise. A couple of posts from years past say to turn CCW. That is wrong. I could hardly get the piston to turn so to try to free it up I pulled on the parking brake lever. The service manual says to turn the parking brake lever to retract the piston. Oops! The piston all of a sudden got pushed almost all the way out of the cylinder. I could not for the life of me get the piston to start retracting by turning.
What I believe happened is that with the pads worn down to almost nothing the automatic adjustment had turned the adjusting shaft so much the piston was about to come off of it. The little extra turn when I moved the parking brake lever was enough to turn it off. I cobbled up a tool to turn the piston and still I couldn't get it to catch and start retracting. As a last resort I disconnected the brake line and put the caliper in the vise. With no hydraulic pressure on the piston, and working the parking lever I finally got it to catch and retract. It only takes about 3 or 4 turns to seat it all the way.
So, be warned. If your pads are totally worn down be careful when trying to turn the piston in. It will be close to coming off the adjuster shaft. If it does, the air in your garage will turn blue very quickly!
Now, any suggestions about how to most easily bleed the rear brake line will be appreciated!
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
'15 F3-S Pure Magnesium Metallic - Mad Max Edition
'15 Mclaren 650S Coupe - Aurora Blue
"You Were Really Flyin', When I Passed You Back There!"
Chuck
2015 F3-S , Pure Magnesium Metallic/Steel Black Metallic
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Very Active Member
Let's see...
Seeing as your removed the hose and caliper altogether... reassemble add fluid pump the pedal and bleed at the hose connections first then repump and bleed at the bleeder nut. If you have a vacuum pump goes a lot faster...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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SpyderLovers Ambassador
Rear Brake pads
Wow, thanks for the TIP. Might go ahead and change/bleed the total brake system. I would look at the Front pads too.
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
Ryde with a Friend and be Safe
My Spyder ..... 'Little Blue-Boy'
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Active Member
Rear brake pads
I have a 2011 RT SE5, I too replaced my rear brake pads yesterday.
I discovered that my caliper does NOT have a screw in type piston. I don't know if, somewhere, someone replaced the caliper with a non BRP until but was most definitely a push in or squeeze type piston.
Brakes working great now. Old pads were VERY thin.
Right at 25k on the bike.
Front pads are still at 50% or more.
Last edited by 11rtLTD; 04-29-2018 at 09:53 AM.
It's a 21 now....,BUT I like being on top
TricLed afterburnerz gen2
BajaRon sway bar
F4 customs SRT 28" Clear Wide
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What is the average miles before pads need changing?
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Very Active Member
rear brakes 2011
Originally Posted by 11rtLTD
I have a 2011 RT SE5, I too replaced my rear brake pads yesterday.
I discovered that my caliper does NOT have a screw in type piston. I don't know if, somewhere, someone replaced the caliper with a non BRP until but was most definitely a push in or squeeze type piston.
Brakes working great now. Old pads were VERY thin.
Right at 25k on the bike.
Front pads are still at 50% or more.
The pre Bremo brakes just push in like a regular caliper does. I believe it was 2012 that they started using the bremo brakes alll around.
Al
All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!
2018 F3-T
My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
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rear brake piston caliber
Turn the parking brake counter clockwise to return piston!! R Wallace Kansas,
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
When I took my rear tire off last week to change it I of course ended up with the brake caliper hanging loose. For some reason before I could the new tire on the pads closed up. In trying to push them apart I saw the pads were badly worn out. One was almost paper thin. Rather than just wait and do nothing while I waited to get new pads I decided to just pull them out and put the caliper back in place. That way I could get the belt aligned and the axle nut torqued.
I got the new pads today so I took the caliper off the bracket to install the new pads. I tried using needle nose pliers to turn the piston back in. Yes, you do turn it clockwise. A couple of posts from years past say to turn CCW. That is wrong. I could hardly get the piston to turn so to try to free it up I pulled on the parking brake lever. The service manual says to turn the parking brake lever to retract the piston. Oops! The piston all of a sudden got pushed almost all the way out of the cylinder. I could not for the life of me get the piston to start retracting by turning.
What I believe happened is that with the pads worn down to almost nothing the automatic adjustment had turned the adjusting shaft so much the piston was about to come off of it. The little extra turn when I moved the parking brake lever was enough to turn it off. I cobbled up a tool to turn the piston and still I couldn't get it to catch and start retracting. As a last resort I disconnected the brake line and put the caliper in the vise. With no hydraulic pressure on the piston, and working the parking lever I finally got it to catch and retract. It only takes about 3 or 4 turns to seat it all the way.
So, be warned. If your pads are totally worn down be careful when trying to turn the piston in. It will be close to coming off the adjuster shaft. If it does, the air in your garage will turn blue very quickly!
Now, any suggestions about how to most easily bleed the rear brake line will be appreciated!
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Very Active Member
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
2008 to 2012 do not need to turn. I have change rear pads every summer. I will be putting on my 6th rear brake pads in a few days. Front brakes are original and they are half worn out. I have 54,000 miles on my Spyder. Bruce
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
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Odd
I did a set of rear brake pads today. I admit, Ann had to hold the caliper while I pushed and turned clockwise, but the piston went in all the way. Took 20 minutes, tops!
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by cptjam
I did a set of rear brake pads today. I admit, Ann had to hold the caliper while I pushed and turned clockwise, but the piston went in all the way. Took 20 minutes, tops!
I suspect the dealers do that a lot. I just could not figure out a way to hold the caliper solid enough to push the piston back in against the spring and turn it at the same time. Times like that is when I need a strong 25 yo buddy close by to help. All my available neighbors are old farts, like me!
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by cptjam
I did a set of rear brake pads today. I admit, Ann had to hold the caliper while I pushed and turned clockwise, but the piston went in all the way. Took 20 minutes, tops!
cptjam, if I understand YOU correctly, YOU TURN the PISTON, NOT the parking brake lever like IdahoMtmSpyder referred to in his post #10???????
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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
That's what I thought would do, but it didn't work! The parking brake lever would not turn CCW. It is stopped solidly by some sort of latch or ratchet inside the cylinder. I looked for a diagram that shows how the brake innards are assembled but came up empty.
What is confusing is the service manual says to turn the parking brake lever to retract the piston. But it doesn't say which direction.
I decided to do another Google search and found this page about how to rebuild a Brembo caliper. It looks to be basically the same as the Spyder brake. https://wiki.seloc.org/a/How_to_Rebu...Brembo_Caliper
This pic is part of the instructions. It shows the internal assembly minus the piston.
Brembo_Caliper_21.JPG
As you can see it's a right hand thread on the adjuster shaft. That means you would need to turn the parking brake lever CW to retract the piston. I still can't get my head around how turning the parking brake lever CW pushes the piston to lock the pads onto the rotor. That is somehow done by a plate with three balls pushing against the piece in the pic, but what exactly causes the disk to rotate and snug up the piston as the pads wear I can't figure out.
Helpful, thanks.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
This thread is all kinds of mixed up with many comments being directed at 2013+ Brembo calipers but actually applying to the older chinese BRP calipers.
The older calipers you need to turn the parking brake lever shaft. The newer calipers you need to turn the piston.
BajaRon sells a tool for the newer caliper piston that makes turning it in much easier. The off the shelf brake tool kits do not have an adaptor that fits the Brembo powersports caliper.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by jcthorne
The older calipers you need to turn the parking brake lever shaft. The newer calipers you need to turn the piston.
That clears things up. As I remember when I did mine the 2014 service manual has a comment about turning the parking brake lever. Must have been a left over instruction from earlier manuals. Not the only time old info got left in newer manuals.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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