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  1. #1
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    Default Easiest Way to Lower Brake Pedal on F3-T?

    Because I have to lift my leg (not just my foot) to apply the brake pedal on my 2016 F3-T, which is fatiguing, I'd like to lower the pedal by about 1/2 to 3/4 inch so that I could just slide my foot over to it.

    I have the standard BRP pegs and the pedal is in the #3 U-Fit position. I'm looking for the simplest way of doing this since I'm --- uhhh, let's just say .... mechanically-challenged.

    Any ideas (with perhaps a video on how to do it)?


    Thanks!
    Bert


  2. #2
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    This is a thread that deals with what you are saying.
    http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...dal-Height-Mod
    2017 F3 Limited
    2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic

  3. #3
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    Or you can do what I did, Raise the height of the floorboards. Much cheaper and easier.
    Last edited by AY4B; 04-22-2018 at 12:06 AM.
    2017 F3 Limited
    2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by AY4B View Post
    Or you can do what I did, Raise the height of the floorboards. Much cheaper and easier.
    Unfortunately that's not an option for me because a) I don't have floorboards , and b) that would change my sitting position for the worse (increasing the bend of my hips, which ache already).

    Thanks.
    Bert


  5. #5
    Very Active Member ofdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AY4B View Post
    Or you can do what I did, Raise the height of the floorboards. Much cheaper and easier.
    any chance for a pic as to how raising the boards changes the pedal angle?



    2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple

  6. #6
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    Default f3 pedal height

    Roadster Renovations has a kit. check them out


  7. #7
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    All I did was purchase the shortest u-fit tie rod and drilled holes beside the 2 holes that were on it. Wish I would of took pics for you. There was also a post on here that I followed.
    2016 F3 Spyder Limited SE6
    2005 Honda ST1300 ABS

  8. #8
    Active Member bushrat's Avatar
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    Default Simple, inexpensive fix

    There is/are a/some previous thread(s) on here which explained the simplest, least expensive 'fix' yet seen to effectively lower the brake pedal. Simply take the brake rod off by disconnecting the pins at the front and back ends. Then drill a hole of the same diameter through the sides of the "U-shaped" forward end (clevis/jaw) of the rod about 5/16" (maybe 3/8" max) closer to the 'throat'. You can do this job with just about any hand-held power drill and a decent bit; use some sewing machine oil (or similar) to lubricate the point of the drill bit. It may help to use a punch or even a stout nail to 'mark' or 'start' the center of the new hole you intend to drill. You need to drill both sides of the jaw (i.e., 2 holes), so be sure to follow straight through, keeping them properly aligned. The work is not difficult, nor heavy, nor time-consuming. The result will drop your brake pedal about an inch. What you are doing with the new hole is effectively shortening the brake rod.

    Disclaimer: if you do this, you do it at your own risk and at your own volition; I'm simply describing one possible 'fix'. And, yes, I did it; and it works! My pedal is lower, the brake action is the same, my right foot is faster; I can 'rock' the ball of my foot higher with my heel still on the floorboard and simply slide it over to apply the brake. No lifting necessary. Prior to this, there were times at the end of a long ride when braking was slower and took effort, thus losing time. For me, drilling the hole has meant a decided improvement. In fact, I drilled a new hole at each end of the rod, but found that I could only really use the new front hole. Warning: Don't be too greedy and try to move the new hole much closer than 3/8" o/c toward the jaw. If you get too close to the jaw, there isn't enough room for the pedal arm to swivel on the pin, and you may be in danger of the arm binding or jamming. If that happens, you may need to file a thin strip off the rear face of the arm in order to gain back the necessary flexibility and freedom of movement. That also explains the reason I couldn't use the new hole drilled through the rear clevis connection - the forward side of the rear plate is broad, so much so that I couldn't connect the arm to the new hole without substantial filing, which I chose not to do. And, in any event, I didn't need the extra 'shortening' of the brake rod; using the new front hole was plenty enough to drop the pedal where I needed it to be. At the same time, you do need to ensure that your new hole is not too close to the original; leave a modicum of space between them.

    I believe a number of others have previously done the same with similar results, and I thank them for the inspiration to attempt their solution for myself.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by bushrat; 04-22-2018 at 03:09 PM.
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    2017 F3 Ltd. Intense Red Pearl/Metallic Black topside
    2017 F3Limited , lowered brake pedal Intense Red Pearl w. Metallic Black topside

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushrat View Post
    There is/are a/some previous thread(s) on here which explained the simplest, least expensive 'fix' yet seen to effectively lower the brake pedal

    I believe a number of others have previously done the same with similar results, and I thank them for the inspiration to attempt their solution for myself.

    Good luck.
    Thanks for the long description, this is exactly what I did. I can get my camera underneath and get some pics if needed.
    2016 F3 Spyder Limited SE6
    2005 Honda ST1300 ABS

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    We have a inexpensive kit (BP Mod kit #2) that will do that. It is adjustable in 1/4" increments. Here is the video and link. (NOTE: video shows kit #1 with the longer length. Kit #2 does not need modified. Plug & play)



    Also, here is the website:

    https://www.roadsterrenovations.info/for-the-f3


  11. #11
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    Hi all,
    I am posting from Australia and I had the same problem with my 2016 F3 Ltd,
    all I did was remove the brake rod, cut it into two pieces, put a right hand thread
    on one end and a left hand on the other piece screwed nuts on each piece ,then
    joined with a turnbuckle. After I fitted the rod back on the bike it was only a matter
    of adjusting the turnbuckle to get the right brake pedal position, then locking it with
    the 2 locknuts. it works well, if I want to alter the position I can do it without pulling
    anything apart.
    Last edited by Hagar; 04-26-2018 at 04:32 PM.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ofdave View Post
    any chance for a pic as to how raising the boards changes the pedal angle?
    Actually I was just restoring back to the stock height. The after market boards I got are not as thick as the stock ones, making them lower. I simply added enough spacer to raise it back to the stock height and angle. When you lower the board, common sense says you are making the brake higher and harder to reach. I posted pics on another thread and had to remove them. I will not go down that road again .
    Last edited by AY4B; 04-24-2018 at 02:19 AM.
    2017 F3 Limited
    2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic

  13. #13
    Very Active Member AY4B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newbert View Post
    Unfortunately that's not an option for me because a) I don't have floorboards , and b) that would change my sitting position for the worse (increasing the bend of my hips, which ache already).

    Thanks.
    Sorry, I missed the part where you have pegs. The Roadster Renovation mod would be your best option. The idea is not to do it like I did it, Its to find a good way to get it where you feel it is best for you. Like Hagar found a way. He has a skill set that helped him do a very clever mod.
    Last edited by AY4B; 04-24-2018 at 02:43 AM.
    2017 F3 Limited
    2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AY4B View Post
    Sorry, I missed the part where you have pegs. The Roadster Renovation mod would be your best option. The idea is not to do it like I did it, Its to find a good way to get it where you feel it is best for you. Like Hagar found a way. He has a skill set that helped him do a very clever mod.
    I have pegs on my Daytona and have the brake pedal where I can either just slide my foot over to the brake without raising it or in town and traffic I place my foot on the peg right over it. This gives me unbelievable reaction time. My foot is always in the most comfortable position. I really like being able to adjust in 1/4" increments. It really dials it in. Think it would work well for you.

  15. #15
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    Default Spot on. Did the same

    This mod only cost me the price of the 1/2 repair nut coupler.
    1. the rod is basically 1/2 diameter and hollow in the center. It threads well with a 1/2 X16 die.
    2. I measured with the rod off to figure out how much to cut out. But I threaded both the cuts ends with the same die. TO adjust I turn the rods separate. Then I lock-tite because the rod and nut CAN'T turn after it's installed.
    3. There is a point of too much lowering where the pedal gets past a center point and can become a parking brake.
    Cons: This only works if you are committed to a set point on the unifit arm.
    Dennis



    Quote Originally Posted by Hagar View Post
    Hi all,
    I am posting from Australia and I had the same problem with my 2016 F3 Ltd,

    all I did was remove the brake rod, cut it into two pieces, put a right hand thread

    on one end and a left hand on the other piece screwed nuts on each piece ,then

    joined with a turnbuckle. After I fitted the rod back on the bike it was only a matter

    of adjusting the turnbuckle to get the right brake pedal position, then locking it with

    the 2 locknuts. it works well, if I want to alter the position I can do it without pulling

    anything apart.

  16. #16
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    I just took off the rod and drilled a hole 1/2" shorter (further back) and it worked.
    2016 F3 Limited
    2019 Ryker Rally
    2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
    2020 CSC TT 250
    2016 F 3 Limited , Vegas White

  17. #17
    Very Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
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    I drilled out the brake rod. Details here:

    >CLICK ME<
    Last edited by Rattlebars; 06-02-2018 at 12:24 PM.
    to see my 2016 F3-T and many how to's
    2016 F3-T SE6 Roadster , Extended brake pedal for which I drilled out the brake rod yolk to lower it and added spacers to lift it slightly Black/Grey

  18. #18
    Active Member GaryinWI's Avatar
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    My F3L came set up in position 3 and I too thought the brake lever was uncomfortably high and uncomfortable. I am 6’4” so I changed to position 5. The change in angle of my leg and a natural reduction in pedal height now makes it very comfortable.
    2017 F3 Limited , Gloss Black with red and carbon fiber accents

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hagar View Post
    Hi all,
    I am posting from Australia and I had the same problem with my 2016 F3 Ltd,
    all I did was remove the brake rod, cut it into two pieces, put a right hand thread
    on one end and a left hand on the other piece screwed nuts on each piece ,then
    joined with a turnbuckle. After I fitted the rod back on the bike it was only a matter
    of adjusting the turnbuckle to get the right brake pedal position, then locking it with
    the 2 locknuts. it works well, if I want to alter the position I can do it without pulling
    anything apart.
    I am wondering why that wasn't done at the factory using aviation quality parts.

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