Please define, "kills all power".
Does it engage?
Is it shutting off the engine?
Is the throttle response not as crisp as before?
(That one is normal!)
And "activate" too, for that matter. Does the problem happen when you just turn it ON, or when you try to SET it. The Cruise status is indicated in the lower left corner of the center display. What does it indicate when the switch position is changed? Is the motor shutting down, ie turning off, electrical power lost, or is the cruise simply not engaged when you let go of the throttle? You can test it out while only going a little over 15 MPH ..or 25 km/h ...whatever you folks use down there.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 04-05-2018 at 08:53 AM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
Check to see if your brake lights remain on. Crud in the switch mechanism will prevent the brake switch from cancelling. That of course is one of the things that "cancel" the cruise automatically.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 04-05-2018 at 04:20 PM.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Check to see if you brake lights remain on. Crud in the switch mechanism will prevent the brake switch from cancelling. That of course is one of the things that "cancel" the cruise automatically.
But that shouldn't cause the bike to lose all power and shut off when he's trying to activate the cruse control.
Bet he is hitting the engine kill switch. The kill switch is red. The cruise control switch is black. The graphic symbols look similar on both switches.
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There's literally got to be a wired crossed somewhere inside the "loud grip"...
My guess: tell your dealer to swap a known "good" switch-set in, and see what happens.
Good luck!
So Frank, I take it that the kill switch does operate normally.
Except for the fact that the cruise function and the run/stop function from the kill switch both reside in the same switch assembly and share the same wiring harness, these two functions don't really share anything in common electrically until they reach the ECM. You could start taking stuff apart and check the wiring harness and plug for any critter damage, pin damage or anything otherwise needing repair. But I'm going to agree with Bob in that replacing the right hand switch assembly is probably the most effective course of action. Not cheap. 300 bucks US new. But, hopefully the dealer will work with you with an assembly to try first - just to be certain - or you could find a salvaged one.
Have a good holiday.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 04-05-2018 at 06:20 PM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238