Any ideas to get a stripped Transmission drain plug out?

[Rookiespyder]

I went to do my first ever oil change on my 2015 RT Limited. I used the T 40 socket to loosen the screw, but on my first turn I realized that it was stripped. So I called a dealer and they suggested for me to try a tap out bit, but to no avail, that did not work. So then I tried vise grips, but the head of the hex screw is too soft, so it slips off. I am out of options, so off to pay the dealer to Pay them to take it out unless someone has an idea. I was hoping to accomplish this by myself to say that I did it. Thanks.

[SPYD3R]

so you've been caught too....
like most of us, you'll now need to drill a hole in it, insert an EASY-OUT and remove it....
next thing to do is order yourself GOLD PLUGS... go online at www.Goldplug.com get their phone number and call Tim.... he'll take care of you just fine... GOLD PLUGS should be OEM on our SPYD3RS but it's called: LOWEST BIDDER.....
tell Tim i said "HI"....
GOOD LUCK, and PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO RE-USE THE OLD PLUGS.....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R

[hypurone]

At this point the only thing I can think of is an impact driver (set to the loosen rotation of course) with either a flat or Phillips head bit inserted.... As you hammer on the driver it will drive the bit in AND twist loose at the same time with the impact working on loosening the bond of threads. If you find you are in between bit sizes you can also use a dremel or the like to create the proper slot for the bit.... Best of luck to you.

[Mad Mac]

I went to do my first ever oil change on my 2015 RT Limited. I used the T 40 socket to loosen the screw, but on my first turn I realized that it was stripped. So I called a dealer and they suggested for me to try a tap out bits, but to know avail that did not work. So then I tried vise grips but the head of the hex screw is to soft so it slips off. I am out of options so off to pay the dealer to Pay them to take it out unless someone has an idea. I was hoping to accomplish this by myself to say that I did it. Thanks.

I had the same issue with the engine plug on my '14. I was able to take the next size up Torx bit and lightly tap it into the drain plug and it had enough grip to remove the plug. You could possibly use an Allen/Hex wrench and get it to grab. Just make sure you "lightly tap" whatever bit you're able to use, because you do not want to crack/mar the nipple that the plug screws into, due to it being alum./mag. material. BE VERY CAREFULL! Hope this helps you. Been there, done that. Mac

[Rookiespyder]

I had the same issue with the engine plug on my '14. I was able to take the next size up Torx bit and lightly tap it into the drain plug and it had enough grip to remove the plug. You could possibly use an Allen/Hex wrench and get it to grab. Just make sure you "lightly tap" whatever bit you're able to use, because you do not want to crack/mar the nipple that the plug screws into, due to it being alum./mag. material. BE VERY CAREFULL! Hope this helps you. Been there, done that. Mac

I tried the next size Torx but that did not work, so I tried the screw outs, but all that did was to spin it in there. If I was to drill it, how far should I GO BEFORE IT GOES IN TO FAR, then try the tap outs?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I went to do my first ever oil change on my 2015 RT Limited. I used the T 40 socket to loosen the screw, but on my first turn I realized that it was stripped. So I called a dealer and they suggested for me to try a tap out bits, but to know avail that did not work. So then I tried vise grips but the head of the hex screw is to soft so it slips off. I am out of options so off to pay the dealer to Pay them to take it out unless someone has an idea. I was hoping to accomplish this by myself to say that I did it. Thanks.

I pretty sure the - TRANSMISSION - Drain plug is a HEX ..... the engine plug is Torx ...... use a mirror and a flashlight ...... and I always set my ratchet to LOOSEN (if removing something)..... before I use it ...... PS these plugs get more difficult after repeated heat cycles, they sort of get varnished in there.... put the socket (hex or Torx) in and then tap it firmly with a hammer to break the seal .... it really helps ........ try a HEX socket before proceeding to the easy out ..... and then get Gold plugs ..... good luck ...Mike

[Mad Mac]

I tried the next size torx but did not work,so I tried the screw outs ,but all it did was to spin in there. If I was to drill it how far should I GO BEFORE IT GOES IN TO FAR then try the tap outs .

I don't know if I would drill it, due to the ground clearance of the Spyder, even with an offset drill. The plug has a magnet on it, but I can't remember off hand how tall the plug was. If you need to drill it, I would definitely put it up on a lift so you can be absolutely sure of where that drill bit is headed. I would think you could drill it deep enough to get an easy-out to get a bite (maybe a 1/8-1/4"??). Not sure. Without being there, this is the best I can suggest. Good Luck. Mac

[JayBros]

I'm confused, but that's normal. The thread subject line says trans-mission drain plug. Mike is correct, the transmission, i.e., clutch cover, plug is a 6mm Allen. The crankcase drain plug is a T40 torx. The OP said he used a T40; was it on the clutch cover drain plug, in which case if he did someone must have previously hogged it out with with the wrong size Allen (U.S. instead of metric) or Torx bit because a T-40 Torx will not fit in a 6mm Allen plug hole. If, OTOH, it is in fact the crankcase plug that is rounded out, someone may have hogged out a Torx plug with the wrong size Allen bit. If it is the crankcase plug I suggest trying to fit the next larger size Allen bit, U.S. or metric in the hole you might have to sacrifice the bit by carefully grinding or filing the bit to tap it into the plug with a hammer. A Dremel tool might be the best grinder to use on the bit. I agree that if it is the engine grain plug, trying to drill out the plug to use an easy out might be difficult because of the angle of the plug in the crankcase and working room under the Spyder.

[JKMSPYDER]

I’m pretty sure the engine drain plug is a 45 Torx. At least that is what is on my F3. The transmission plug (on the right side) is a 6 Allen.

[Rookiespyder]

I finally got it out. I had to use my drill out bit, then put it on an angle and used the drill as a rachet to get it to bite. Then I ratcheted the drill and it grabbed and unscrewed. It is the clutch cover drain plug. That is what the dealer told me, someone was using the wrong tool likely. So after all that nonsense I ordered the GOLD PLUGS. That is why I like this forum. Thanks for all the help everyone.

[JayBros]

Congrats! That was definitely the easier one to remove.

[ofdave]

like the idea of the Gold Plug.
Is the plug for the trans the same for SM6 and SE6?
The trans plug shown on the Gold Plug site says "

Can-Am # 420241782 Spyder 990 Engine 420241786

"
Is this the same for the 1330?

[JayBros]

No, this is the plug for the crankcase: https://goldplug.com/shop/mp18/.

This is the plug for the clutch cover, aka transmission:
https://goldplug.com/shop/mp01/.

[JerryB]

Hi Rookie,

Re: That is why I like this forum.

Me, too; this is the very best thing about this forum.

Jerry Baumchen

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

so you've been caught too....
like most of us, you'll now need to drill a hole in it, insert an EASY-OUT and remove it....
next thing to do is order yourself GOLD PLUGS... go online at www.Goldplug.com get their phone number and call Tim.... he'll take care of you just fine... GOLD PLUGS should be OEM on our SPYD3RS but it's called: LOWEST BIDDER.....
tell Tim i said "HI"....
GOOD LUCK, and PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO RE-USE THE OLD PLUGS.....
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R

What kind of anti-corrosion coating is there on the Gold Plugs? If none there is a risk of corrosion between the engine and the plug because of galvanic action. The aluminum will corrode in favor of the stainless. I don't know what metal the OEM plugs are made of but I would guess they are closer to the aluminum in the electromotive force series, hence a lot less likely to cause the aluminum engine housing to corrode.

[ofdave]

No, this is the plug for the crankcase: https://goldplug.com/shop/mp18/.

This is the plug for the clutch cover, aka transmission:
https://goldplug.com/shop/mp01/.

thanks

[SPYD3R]

​I’m pretty sure the engine drain plug is a 45 Torx. At least that is what is on my F3. The transmission plug (on the right side) is a 6 Allen.

JKM;
didn't you state awhile back that you had yours DRILLED out....?
PS: you'd think the BRP would use the SAME TOOL for both plugs, since both are pulled during an oil change.... duh.....
Dan

[JKMSPYDER]

I had to have the original OEM plugs drilled out on my first Spyder, the ST-S. Then I purchased the Gold plugs. No more problems!😁

[viperryder]

Just a word of caution. When using the gold plug, you are using two dissimilar metals and you can get a reaction between the metals. This can cause the plug to lock up in the base metal. Just letting everybody know it is possible.

[SPYD3R]

Just a word of caution. When using the gold plug, you are using two dissimilar metals and you can get a reaction between the metals. This can cause the plug to lock up in the base metal. Just letting everybody know it is possible.

i'm coming up on my 3rd oil change with the GOLD PLUGS and have had no issues as of this time.....
Dan P
SPYD3R

[honda]

I had the same problem and ended up finding allen wrench worked . Also ordered new plugs.

[UtahPete]

Originally Posted by Rookiespyder
Hello, how hard is it to do an oil change on a 2015 RT Limited 1330 ? I just bought the Spyder in the middle of July last summer from dealership. So now it is do. Dealership cost to much so I might tackle it myself.

YOU probably stripped the OEM plug by using the wrong size of Torx drive socket (T-40 vs T-45). There has been plenty posted about this topic. E.g. below;

It's not difficult at all. You will need a torque wrench that goes down to 18 ft-lb and a 36mm socket for the engine oil filter, a T-45 drive socket for the engine drainplug and a 6mm hex drive socket for the transmission clutch housing drainplug. You will need to get the bike off the ground (level) high enough to get at the plugs and slide a drain pan under there; 8-12" should do it.

Then, 5-1/2 quarts of the right oil and an O-ring and crush washer set, plus the oil filter. You can buy the oil, filter and washer kits from BajaRon and Lamonster with everything you need. Saves a LOT of money for labor at the dealer.

[JayBros]

Just a word of caution. When using the gold plug, you are using two dissimilar metals and you can get a reaction between the metals. This can cause the plug to lock up in the base metal. Just letting everybody know it is possible.

The OEM oil sump plug is some type of nonmagnetic alloy, monel perhaps perhaps, for its anticorrosion properties. The OEM clutch cover plug will jump to a magnet a magnet but the head and threads will not attract a hacksaw blade or metal filings; don't know what it's made of.

IMO, it is most important to remember the recommended torques for all three removables are pretty low: oil sump plug - 21 lbft +/- 1 lbft; clutch cover plug 15 lbft +/- 1 lbft; oil filter cover 18 lbft +/- 2 lbft, according to my Green Manual. Also, both the aluminum washer on the oil sump plug and the copper washer on the clutch cover plug are designed to be used only once and should be replaced at each oil change. They compress a tiny amount when the plug is tightened and if reused additional torque must be used to try to get the correct seal. This can lead to myriad problems down the line.

[UtahPete]

i'm coming up on my 3rd oil change with the GOLD PLUGS and have had no issues as of this time.....Dan P SPYD3R

You won't have any issues with OEM plugs, either, if you use the correct tools correctly.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The OEM oil sump plug is some type of nonmagnetic alloy, monel perhaps perhaps, for its anticorrosion properties. The OEM clutch cover plug will jump to a magnet a magnet but the head and threads will not attract a hacksaw blade or metal filings; don't know what it's made of.

IMO, it is most important to remember the recommended torques for all three removables are pretty low: oil sump plug - 21 lbft +/- 1 lbft; clutch cover plug 15 lbft +/- 1 lbft; oil filter cover 18 lbft +/- 2 lbft, according to my Green Manual. Also, both the aluminum washer on the oil sump plug and the copper washer on the clutch cover plug are designed to be used only once and should be replaced at each oil change. They compress a tiny amount when the plug is tightened and if reused additional torque must be used to try to get the correct seal. This can lead to myriad problems down the line.

I have done dozens of Oil changes ..... I have not re-placed any of the washers or "O" rings ..... I have not had any leakage on any of the Spyders I now or have owned ... Is this some sort of miracle ....... just a thought ..... Mike