How To Properly and Stylishly Mount Mutazu Bags To An F3S - with pics

[Trevor G]

Real nice set-up.

Thanks :-)

[Trevor G]

We have to extend the rear hanger as well, in order to mount the saddlebag frame at the correct height. We do that by attaching one of the two extended right angle support arms supplied in the fitting kit.

Just as the extension on the front hanger performs a double duty the extension on the rear forms the basis for the virtual triangulated support system which stops the bags from wobbling up and down and in and out.

We have to drill one extra hole in the longer side of this bracket, two holes closer to the bend. You will see the position of the extra hole in the photo. Counting from the bottom of the bracket it would be the eighth hole - the seventh hole is not drilled.

For neatness, you might also want to remove the last two holes on the long end of this bracket. I didn't, and you can see this excess length hanging down below the saddlebag frame, either when looking from the rear, or when you have the bags removed. You can see this in some of the pictures.

right angle brackets.jpg

[Trevor G]

Here is how I bolted two brackets together to make sure I got the position of the extra hole just right. The brackets shown are ones we use later, but the idea is the same.

DSCF2215.jpg


All of the hanger and right angle brackets have the same hole spacing, so it doesn't matter which bracket you bolt up to the one you want to drill. It's easier, and only one bolt operation is needed, if you bolt the two identical brackets back to back, with the right spacing.

Look at the picture in the previous comment to make sure.

Use a small drill, such as 3mm or 1/8" to make a pilot hole, then use the 8mm or 5/16" drill to complete. Drill slowly when using the large bit. It's easier using a bench or pedestal drill, but I made do with a hand drill.

Once you finish drilling these holes use a larger drill bit to de-burr the holes. Do this by hand and do it neatly so that there is no metal sticking up to prevent a good, surface to surface contact when bolting up tightly. Proper preparation ensures you have a tightly bolted together frame which won't flex or wobble.

NB When drilling the smaller right angle brackets (equal length sides) later on there are two things to note:

1) The small right angle bracket with the large hole is not drilled - only the small right angle brackets (x2) with 3 holes on each leg have one extra hole added.

2) The original holes are not drilled equidistant from the bend - one side's holes are closer to the bend than the other.

3) The extra hole is always added on the side with the holes slightly closer to the bend.

[Trevor G]

Before we mount the extended right angle bracket with its extra hole to the rear hanger we need to prepare the mounting frame.

Two of the bolt holes that we want to use on the mounting frame are right where they bent that part of the bracket to make the frame. During the bending the holes become slightly distorted.

Run a 5/16" or 8mm drill bit through them and rotate the drill in a conical shape as you do so to clean to the edges.

clean frame.jpg

[Trevor G]

Just a reminder to cover that lovely Akrapovic or whatever with a thickly folded towel or similar, to protect against the things you drop from time to time.



DSCF2450.jpg

[Raprider]

Wow...nice job, Trevor!

[ofdave]

If you can't install the bags from reading these instructions, I suggest you purchase a back pack and forget luggage.
Everything you need to know is here.

[Trevor G]

Attach the extended right angle bracket to the back of the rear hanger, with the shorter arm pointing towards the tyre.

Use a 25mm round head bolt with a washer under its head, pushed through from the back.

The bolt passes through the top hole in the long edge of the bracket (the extra one drilled earlier) and continues into the second hole from the bottom on the rear hanger.

rear hanger extended.jpg

No need to attach a nut just yet, because the saddlebag frame goes on next.

If you are not sure how this all looks, because the photo does not show the back of the brackets, look at the photo in the next step before proceeding.

Each hanger has a bolt (actually too long in this photo for the application) which is suspending the bracket mounted behind it. The bolts are in their correct positions, if you count the holes down.

[Trevor G]

Here is the rear view of the rear hanger with the extended right angle bracket attached.

Fit the mounting frame to the upper front hanger bolt and add the nut to hold it in place, then do the same with the rear hanger and bolt.

Now add the lower bolts and washers for the mounting frame - use the 30mm bolts purchased separately. Add the 3/8" spacer between the hanger and the frame so that the frame sits vertically and not at some crazy angle.

Tighten all four nuts connecting the mounting frame to the hangers, after ensuring that the hangers are vertical. Tighten the round head bolts which secure the hangers to the grab rail mounting points.

The extended right angle bracket on the rear hanger sticks down lower than the third hanger behind the front hanger. You might want to cut this extra length off before mounting it fully.

rear hanger extended rrear view.jpg

[Raprider]

If you can't install the bags from reading these instructions, I suggest you purchase a back pack and forget luggage.
Everything you need to know is here.

I'm all thumbs, but if I needed bags, I'd be asking for Trevor to post his install $$ rate and an address in Glendale!

[Trevor G]

I'm all thumbs, but if I needed bags, I'd be asking for Trevor to post his install $$ rate and an address in Glendale!

I could fly into Noo Joysie in a flash and help you out. Send ticket any time...

[Trevor G]

Stabilising The Brackets

We need to stop the bags flexing inwards - BRP have conveniently provided attachment points at the rear that we will use.

Because the mounting frame and hangers are so stiff and strong we only need to fully stabilise at the front or the back, and the back is much easier. The front is already stabilised and prevented from bending inwards by the top part of the third hanger

1) Under the tail light assembly:

remove two covers.jpg

Remove the three screws and two covers uindicated - #25 Torx. The middle screw will be re-used/replaced, but the two outer screws will not be re-used.

The two covers will be refitted later.

[ofdave]

after you have finished your install of the bags following trevor's comprehensive instructions you will be a happy traveler.
To cap off the install and make a bit of a Spyder statement you can replace the Matazu emblems with some more suitable to your ride.
Like these:P1020026.jpg
from Ebay as no sponsor here sells them

[Trevor G]

Stabilising The Brackets - Under The Seat

2) Remove the seat, and the 5 screws indicated. This will allow you to lift this panel and access the 2 x 6mm T nuts which are used to hold those two small covers underneath, in place.


Remove screws.jpg


The picture is taken looking forwards from behind the tail light.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

after you have finished your install of the bags following trevor's comprehensive instructions you will be a happy traveler.
To cap off the install and make a bit of a Spyder statement you can replace the Matazu emblems with some more suitable to your ride.
Like these:P1020026.jpg
from Ebay as no sponsor here sells them

.......do you happen to have the item , number for that ......Thanks ...Mike

[ofdave]

.......do you happen to have the item , number for that ......Thanks ...Mike

sending you a PM with link

[ofdave]

this thread on the Matazu bags has become a good one for those of us who have them or want to get them.
Install instructions by Trevor with pics should be a format all should follow when they post DIY stuff.

I got the spider emblems on Ebay as no vendor here has them in the size and type to fit.
I have provided the source to a couple folks already, so PM me if you need more info.

[Trevor G]

Under The Seat Panel

Replacing The T Nuts

3) When you lift the seat panel you will see a 6mm T nut on each side, which needs to be removed. The screws that held each of those small covers in place go into the 6 mm T nuts

In its place on each side we put an 8mm T nut purchased separately. The top stabiliser brackets will be bolted on each side to this same point and also hold the covers in place.

Use a flat blade screw driver and slip-joint pliers or multigrips to remove the T nuts. If you examine the new ones you will see that on the underside there is a small projection which locks or locates the T nut in the hole. The idea is to spread the two sides of the T nut just enough to let this locking locater slide out of the hole.

Position the new 8mm T nut in the centre of the hole.

Replace T nut.jpg

Refit the cente screw to the main under-guard cover.

Now insert the 50mm x 8mm button head bolt into the small cover on each side. It won't slide in but it will screw in. Don't open up the hole with a drill - use its size to help hold the button head bolt in place.

Reposition the cover and make sure the bolt will screw into the new T nut. If not, you might just have to reposition the T nut slightly on the flat metal bracket. (Don't try to screw the bolt in all the way - it needs a spacer, washers and bracket on it to be the correct length.)

After test fitting remove the bolt and the cover.

Insert and tighten the 5 screws in the under-seat cover.

DSCF2219.jpg

[Trevor G]

There are two types of standard size right angle brackets supplied in the kit, four right angle brackets in total, which have equal length sides. (We have already used the 2 brackets which have an extended side, on the rear hanger.)

Ignore the two standard size right angle brackets with a large hole on one arm; they will be used without modification.

The two remaining brackets have 3 holes in each arm. We need to drill an extra hole closer to the bend, and then cut off the extra length on that arm. This then becomes the top stablising bracket. (The extra length would catch on the tyre on large bumps.)

Look carefully at the bracket - on one arm of each the existing holes are drilled slightly closer to the bend. This is the side that we will add the hole to. When we do this the three stabilising brackets fit in perfectly!

Bolt the two sides of the standard right angle brackets together, back to back, along the edge that the hole(s) needed to be added to.

Mark and drill each bracket from the opposite side.

Drill brackets back to back.jpg

[Trevor G]

After bolting up back-to-back the two brackets that need extra holes, be careful when marking the centre to start drilling.

Use a hand-held automatic centre punch in good light, to make sure you have the right spot. Turn the brackets around 180 degrees to obviate parallax errors.

Drill a pilot hole all the way through with a 5/32" bit, or equivalent metric size. Use a slow speed on the drill and gradually speed up to get a good flow of swarf from the bit. Not too fast, though, it could overheat and become dull. The best speed gives the best flow.

Use 5/16" or 8mm to make the full size hole, using the slowest possible speed.

DSCF8849.jpg

[Trevor G]

Finishing The Holes

There will be raised edges on the holes after you finish drilling.

You can remove these either by using a larger bit held in your hand and rotated a few times on the edge of the hole, or by using the curved edge of the handle of a file which you also rotate in the hole.

When the edge of the hole is smooth (this is very important to make sure that the brackets bolt together tightly) you can add some satin black paint to match the rest of the bracket.

DSCF8851.jpg

[Trevor G]

Preparing The Top Stabilising Bracket

Cutting Off The Excess Length

Time to fire up the angle grinder, after fitting it with a cutoff disc.

Make sure you wear ear plugs and eye protection. Only use an angle grinder outside of the garage, with the door shut, to prevent ther sparks igniting a fire from fuel or oil remnants.

Cut it off at the second hole from the bend, next to the one you just drilled.

Angle the cut to the edge of the hole, from each side, and then round off this section of the bracket using a grinding/finishing disc.

Use a file to remove the sharp edges remaining.

DSCF2225.jpg

[Trevor G]

Summarising The Bracket Modifications

At this stage the following essential modifications should have been made:

1) The front hanger - bottom section cut off, about 3/16" below the bottom hole - to allow the spacer which connects to the saddlebag frame to correctly fit in.

2) The extended right angle bracket - an extra, 8th hole drilled close to the bend. The 7th hole is not drilled.

3) The standard right angle bracket - it has 3 holes on each side. An extra hole is drilled on the side with the holes closer to the bend, then the excess length of this side is cut off at the second hole (the one adjacent to the new one drilled).

This then becomes the top stabiliser bracket.

right angle brackets.jpg

Non-essential modification:

4) You could cut off the bottom 2 holes from the extended right angle bracket, so that this bracket projects below the saddlebag frame the same amount as the third hanger does on the front mount. Now is the time, if you are going to do it!

Once the painting is done, the system can be assembled. You can also paint each bracket as it is modified, rather than leave it all to the end of the mods.

[Trevor G]

Painting The Modified Brackets

Please ensure that any raised edges on the holes or where brackets have been cut, are removed, to ensure a strong fit to the adjacent bracket or bolt.

Place the brackets on their edge.

Spray 3 or 4 light coats from about 12" away.

A light coat is one which still looks dull and dry. A heavy coat is one which looks wet and thick, and runs. It will take a day to dry properly.

Don't try to cover all the bare metal with the first coat - the paint should be touch dry in 60 seconds to allow you to turn the brackets over on their other edge.

Turn the brackets around, as well, so that you are painting from the opposite side or angle.

Multiple light coats at one or two minute intervals will produce good cover which will be touch dry in minutes, and usable in about half an hour.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Painting The Modified Brackets

Please ensure that any raised edges on the holes or where brackets have been cut, are removed, to ensure a strong fit to the adjacent bracket or bolt.

Place the brackets on their edge.

Spray 3 or 4 light coats from about 12" away.

A light coat is one which still looks dull and dry. A heavy coat is one which looks wet and thick, and runs. It will take a day to dry properly.

Don't try to cover all the bare metal with the first coat - the paint should be touch dry in 60 seconds to allow you to turn the brackets over on their other edge.

Turn the brackets around, as well, so that you are painting from the opposite side or angle.

Multiple light coats at one or two minute intervals will produce good cover which will be touch dry in minutes, and usable in about half an hour.

............ and let me add that you can easily make the Paint tougher by putting it a 275 degree oven and letting it bake for 10 minutes after it has thoroughly Dried ..... If you do it sooner it will smell....After the volatiles have dried it bakes with only a minor smell ...... I just did my re-painted car wheels ...... Mike ......PS do not do this on Plastic