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  1. #1
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    Default How To Properly and Stylishly Mount Mutazu Bags To An F3 or F3S - with pics

    Mutazu bags, at $299 shipped, represent the best value for money by far.

    In addition to being stylish, they are quite large, and well built. We also (well, Patti my wife) found some very affordable inner liners that are a close fit and will do the job for us.

    Their downfall has been their universal mounts - the frames supplied which the bags attach to are very robust and well thought out. The hanging brackets supplied to mount the frames to the bike are strong and pre-bent for an "average" installation, but to do the job properly takes time and thought. Well, it took me 2 1/2 weeks of mornings to nut it out and put it together, and so I share my work with you now. I reckon it would take 5 to 6 hours of not rushing to finish mounting them from scratch, not including electrical wiring.

    It also takes a few additional parts, like spacers, T nuts and bolts (about $35 worth), in addition to the pretty good set that comes with the kit, plus an angle grinder with cut-off and finishing disks, a 10-12" adjustable wrench and a can of satin black touch up paint.

    To me, mounting bags up high and angling them to match the grab handles is just not on. These are set straight, in line with the frame, not the grab handles, and are angled down ever so slightly. You probably could adjust the angle up or down by about a 1/2", measured at the rear of the bag.

    In addition, the bags need additional support to stop them from sagging inwards at the bottom under load, just like any other saddlebags. That is where most of the time and thought went. Some people mount them without that, and it looks wacky and is unsafe.
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    Last edited by Trevor G; 04-16-2018 at 03:50 PM.

  2. #2
    Active Member Raprider's Avatar
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    Looks great! Nice job and thanks for sharing
    Raprider (Rich)

    2016 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5 Steel Black Metallic
    BRP Audio, Heated Grips, Fog Lights, Passenger Backrest
    Givi Saddlebags and Top Case
    BajaRon Swaybar
    Tricled Wide-Vu Mirrors

    1996 Yamaha Virago 750 (Vera) - garaged for now
    1987 Honda Shadow 500 (Shady) - sold
    1982 Honda Rebel 250 (Little Reb) - sold

  3. #3
    Consumer Advocate akspyderman's Avatar
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    Looking good.

    Currently Owned: 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium), 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow), 2015 Vulcan 900 LTD

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) Pictures of 2008 and 2009 Spyders are in Alaska Albums 2009 and 2010.
    5 Spyders, 10 years, 145,375 miles


  4. #4
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Default

    Looks great. How about a picture, or two of the mounts without the bags. Even better if you have step by step instructions of how you did this!
    2015 F3S, 2018 F3L

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
    but our benefits don't?

  5. #5
    Very Active Member ofdave's Avatar
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    Looks good with them lower than where most mount them (including me).
    Have been putting off lowering mine, but now I will after seeing yours.
    I ran a cross piece between the bags at the rear to eliminate sideways movement of the bags. I also did not like the idea of them flopping side to side. Mine are level like yours because they do look odd at the steep angle many have done.
    The actual bags mounts look almost identical to the system Givi uses for some bags (I've had three different sets of that type) and make for easy removal for cleaning..
    My bike with bags on is one of the pics in the Ebay listing for the Matazu bags. Sent them a pic after install and they decided to use it. If it helps someone decide to buy them, I'm all for it.

    So how about pics without the bags so we can see how you handled the brackets?
    And tell us what the angle grinder and cutoff and discs were used for.



    2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple

  6. #6
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default THOSE BAGS

    Thanks for sharing ... I also have a set to be mounted on an RSS ..... I have already painted the side covers ( the ones that un-screw from the inside so it's very easy to paint ) .... I painted mine " Cognac " with no clear top coat, I wanted them to match the Flat RSS orange .....it does very nicely ............... another member here " Warlock " discovered the plastic brackets that hold the bags onto the frame aren't very sturdy and He fixed them ( PM Him I can't remember exactly how He did His ) .... because of His Experience I plan to weld a nut to the Bracket that attaches the bags to the Mutaza Frame ..... then I will put a bolt through from inside the bags and screw it into the welded nut .... the only it can possibly come off accidently is the entire attachment Bracket will have to come loose ....... Mike

  7. #7
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    Default Bracket Mods

    Can you explain what you did to the stock mounting brackets to lower the bags. I just bought a pair and have them mounted much higher.

    Thanks, Chris

  8. #8
    Very Active Member ofdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ca8920 View Post
    Can you explain what you did to the stock mounting brackets to lower the bags. I just bought a pair and have them mounted much higher.

    Thanks, Chris
    good question, I asked the same a couple posts earlier.
    He's been on the forum but apparently hasn't been back to this thread.
    His mounting looks good-hope he gives us more info.



    2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple

  9. #9
    Very Active Member ofdave's Avatar
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    sent the OP a private message asking him to please give us the details
    can't wait to take mine off and remount them



    2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple

  10. #10
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    Default Sorry, I had a BMW happen to me two weeks ago

    DSC01673.jpg

    I'll get the closeup pics and details onto my Facebook page shortly.

    I have been looking for something to let me keep up with my wife, Patti, on her F3S. I had been sitting on the back behind her, which is a lot of fun. I get so many thumbs up for doing that, especially from female drivers around town.

    On the day we drove to Prescott to look at the BM, which is a 1988 K75S with less than 6,000 miles, one car pulled up beside us at 75 mph on the I17 just to give us the thumbs, and another did the same at 50mph in Prescott Valley.

    Mrs G will readily push any Spyder to 80-90 mph, and my hotted-up 750 Moto Guzzi was just a bit vibey at that speed. Now I easily leave her, in comfort.
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    Last edited by Trevor G; 03-29-2018 at 05:04 PM.

  11. #11
    Very Active Member ofdave's Avatar
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    thanks for not forgetting us, Trevor
    could you post pics here for those of us who don't do Facebook?

    The K75 is a sweet bike-almost got one a few yews ago and now every time I see one I wish I had.



    2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple

  12. #12
    Very Active Member ofdave's Avatar
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    sure hope to see pics of the mounting
    took my bags off and lowered them on Sun.-looks much better
    The bags in their new position have more side to side movement at the bottom than I like.
    Looking for ideas on how to stiffen them up.
    Maybe connecting them to each other at the bottom as is common on other (mostly adv bikes), or fabricating a mount to the bike itself (maybe to the passenger footpeg)?
    So, let's hear some ideas
    Last edited by ofdave; 03-13-2018 at 07:11 AM.



    2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple

  13. #13
    Very Active Member ofdave's Avatar
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    Default gave it a shot

    lowered my bags because they look so good on the OP's Spyder.
    Decided to add additional bracing as I mentioned before.
    A member here, als, gave me some good advice so I gave it a shot.
    Here are pics. The front brace goes to the outermost bolt under the seat. The rear brace goes to the one I already installed connecting the bags together at the rear.
    The whole thing is pretty solid. Paint used on the additional braces was Rustoleum Bedliner. Have used it many times, very hard finish with texture.
    thumbnail_0315181706b.jpgthumbnail_0315181709.jpgthumbnail_0315181711.jpgthumbnail_0315181708.jpg



    2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple

  14. #14
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    Default Pictures

    Thanks Much for the photos.

    Quote Originally Posted by ofdave View Post
    lowered my bags because they look so good on the OP's Spyder.
    Decided to add additional bracing as I mentioned before.
    A member here, als, gave me some good advice so I gave it a shot.
    Here are pics. The front brace goes to the outermost bolt under the seat. The rear brace goes to the one I already installed connecting the bags together at the rear.
    The whole thing is pretty solid. Paint used on the additional braces was Rustoleum Bedliner. Have used it many times, very hard finish with texture.
    thumbnail_0315181706b.jpgthumbnail_0315181709.jpgthumbnail_0315181711.jpgthumbnail_0315181708.jpg

  15. #15
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    Default My Mounting Mods

    I wanted to modify the standard Mutazu mount but I didn't want to lower the bags as much as Trevor did. I used the forward most mounting hole on the bracket, then I used one of the brackets that came with my Matazu bags to lower the rear a bit.

    I also modified the bracing bar. I ended up buying a metal bar at the local Home Depot to use as the bracing bar. I mounted one of the elbows to the bracket, (had to drill a hole for the height I wanted), then added the bracing bar which is positiong about 1/4" under the taillight. The bracing bar also required drilling to match the mounting holes on the elbow and a bit of black paint.

    Bracket I used to lower the back.
    I mounted lowering bracket at an angle to the rear of the bracket.



    The brace mounted to the two elbows which are mounted to the two brackets.



    Bags mounted


  16. #16
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    Default Here Is An Overview Of The Mounting Syustem

    DSCF2258.jpgDSC01660A.jpgDSCF2242_1.jpg

    My aim was to use the brackets supplied. I don't have a vise, but I do have a drill and an angle grinder, so everything had to be achieved with just those tools.

    The bags are braced at the rear. Because the frame mounting system supplied is so strong there is no chance of the brackets twisting or bending unless, maybe, you sat on one of the bags!

    The bag frame is stabilised at the front, to stop it bending inwards under the weight of the bags, by using a third hanger. The top of this sits directly under the grab rail boss - as the bags try to bend inwards the top of this hanger contacts the boss and prevents further movement.

    This additional hanger also allows the bags to be mounted at the correct height, so that they don't come too close to any fixtures such as the front hanger/grab rail mounting bolt.


    DSCF2264.jpg

    The full instructions are being placed on my Facebook page first. I'll add here as required.

    https://www.facebook.com/trevor.grae...09804402538083
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Trevor G; 03-29-2018 at 02:36 PM.

  17. #17
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    Default List Of Additional Parts Required

    When ordering Mutazu bags for your Spyder make sure you get the Can Am Spyder version from Ebay. This will ensure that you get side opening bags (top opening will not clear the grab rails) and the brackets supplied exactly fit the mounting points.

    You will also need to buy some additional components, which are available in the US from Ace Hardware stores.

    4 x 8mm (or 5/16") mudguard washers

    4 x Steel bushes 5/16" ID, 3/8" Long, 5/8" OD

    2 x Steel bushes 5/16" ID, 3/4" Long, 5/8" OD

    2 x Button head 8mmx50mm bolts

    2 x 8mm T nuts

    If you have no other accessories fitted to the grab rails then you will use the 4 x 40mm long 8mm round head bolts which are supplied in the mounting kit, to mount the hangers off the grab rails. In that case you will then need:

    4 x 8mmx30mm round head bolts.

    I had originally thought to use heat shrink tubing on the hangers to cover the many bolt holes, but that has certain issues. Instead, we found 5/16 nylon caps at Ace which fill the holes nicely.

    You will need the following tools:

    Big hammer (just joking)

    Electric drill with 8mm or 5/16" bit.

    Small bit to drill pilot holes

    Angle grinder with cutoff and finishing discs, or hacksaw (very slow)

    Hand file (optional if you are really good with the angle grinder).

    1 aerosol can of satin black paint - Ace's paint is great.



    Last edited by Trevor G; 03-29-2018 at 05:00 PM.

  18. #18
    Very Active Member ofdave's Avatar
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    Default

    @Trevor g
    nice job
    I like the extra brace mounted to the bike and the addition of the extra bolt through the rear mounting bracket. Much cleaner than my connecting the two bags-may have to revisit my install.
    I can see it would be sturdy.



    2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple

  19. #19
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    Default The First Step

    The first step is cosmetic.

    Remove the screws from the grab rails, one side at a time, and pull the grab rail off its mounting.


    Inside the mounting on the grab rail is a black mudguard washer - that is, a washer with a much larger outside diameter than normal.

    Replace this black washer with a silver one you bought from Ace (or wherever). Note that all of these types of washers (not engineering washers) are stamped out of flat sheet or bar, so that one side is rounded off on the edges and the other side is straight-edged flat.

    DSCF2234.jpgDSCF2235.jpg

    Install the new washer so that the flat edge is against the mounting stub on the frame and the rounded edge is against the inside of the grab rail.

    The black washers will be used on the outside of the rail when mounting the hangers for the bags.

    Here is an example of the rounded-off edge of a normal size (not mudguard size) washer, which is normally used on the top or outside of the item you are mounting it on, so that this rounded off edge is visible.

    There is an important exception to this rule - when using this type of washer on plastic or a similar, soft surface, the rounded-off edge always goes against the plastic. The sharp edge will actually cut through the plastic - this is important for a later step in the installation.

  20. #20
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    Default Installing The Hangers

    There are six hangers, about 8" long, with an offset bend on one end, and six holes drilled in the long, straight section. These form the basis of the brackets; three are used on each side.

    Before you mount the front one you need to cut off the bottom

    section, about 3/16" below the bottom hole. This is to allow a mounting bolt to fit just below the end of this hanger. You will understand later, if not now.

    De-burr, but there is no need to round off the corners.

    Note the orientation of the two hanger brackets - this is the key to the parallel installation of the bags.

    DSCF2208.jpg

    The front hanger is mounted so that the 6 holes section is inwards of the top mount.

    The rear hanger is mounted so that the 6 holes section is outwards of the top mount.

    We have an MBL rack mounted which somewhat obscures the placement of the fixing hardware. I'll show that in another image, but the sequence is:


    1) silver washer under grab rail

    2) grab rail

    3) grab rail spacer

    4) black washer removed from inside grab rail

    5) hanger

    6) washer and 40mm round head bolt from fitting kit

    Don't leave off the washer between the hanger and the grab rail spacer. This spacer has a raised edge which the hanger does not fully cover, which means that it would have a lot of flex outwards and produce an unstable mounting.

    MOST IMPORTANT: If you have a nice, shiny Akrapovic or similar get a bath towel and fold it over several times and place it on top of the muffler BEFORE you start work. This will prevent damage from the many times you drop something on it.
    Last edited by Trevor G; 03-31-2018 at 10:26 AM.

  21. #21
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    Default Aligning The Hangers

    Only two brackets need to be cut or shortened for each side, and two extra holes also need to be drilled for each side. I will give details as we go, including how to finish the holes and the cuts and prepare them for painting.

    The next part, the slight twisting of the hangers, is best done in a vise. If you don't have one you can do it like I did, on the bike.

    Tighten up both hangers. They now need to be twisted slightly to help align them with the frame that the bags mount to.

    Use an adjustable wrench (shifting spanner or "shifter" in Oz) to grip the hanger above the first hole in each case, The handle needs to be pointing towards the rear of the bike.

    DSCF2207.jpg

    The hanger will be oriented in line with the angle of the grab rail, so to straighten it, to make it more in line with the wheel or direction of travel, you pull the handle towards you. Not too much, mind you.

    Hold the bottom of the hanger with one hand while you do this, so that you don't also bend it outwards. You don't need to twist it so that it is perfectly parallel with the bike, just a little, enough to start it, and to make it easier to connect and tighten the bag frame.

  22. #22
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    Default Adding Stabilisers To The Hangers

    Each hanger has an additional piece bolted to it, to allow the saddlebag frame to sit at the right height, and to stabilize the bags so that they don't bend inwards and bounce up and down.

    By now you should have modified the front hanger before installing it, by cutting it off 3/16" below the lowest mounting hole.

    Now take the third hanger and hold it on the inside of the front one, making sure that the offset section is disposed inwards towards the tyre. The photo shows the correct orientation.

    Front hangers.jpg

    The top of the offset will sit just under the boss on the grab rail, when you fit it correctly. Take a 25mm bolt, place a washer on it, and insert it from the inside (the tyre side) into the top hole of the third hanger, then into the third hole on the original, front hanger.

    Front and third hanger bolt.jpg

    Once again, check the photo. Attach a nut but only tighten it with your fingers about 1 1/2 turns.

    When mounting the third hanger you might find that once you insert the bolt the hanger will not sit under the boss.

    Loosen the bolt on the front hanger, which also mounts the grab rail, and then insert the mounting bolt for connecting the third hanger
    to the front hanger.

    Gradually tighten both bolts and make sure that the front hanger is not being bent outwards at the bottom. If it is, you might need to slightly relieve the top edge of the third hanger, where it contacts the underside of the grab rail boss, with a half-round file. Don't rush into doing this, however.

    Note that all hangers point straight down. The photos sometimes suggest that they might be slanted because of perspective distortion.

    When you insert the bolt which connects the two hangers leave the nut on loosely - the saddlebag frame also connects to this bolt, but we only attach that later
    Last edited by Trevor G; 03-31-2018 at 10:21 AM.

  23. #23
    Very Active Member PW2013STL's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks Trevor !!
    2015 F3S, 2018 F3L

    Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
    but our benefits don't?

  24. #24
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    Default Closeup Detail Of Front and Third Hanger Mounting

    Let's review the mounting of the front and third hangers.

    Note that the third hanger is not just to stop the bags from wobbling inwards under the weight of their load or road surface irregularities.


    The third hanger actually extends the length of the front hanger to allow the bags to be mounted at the correct height, so that they allow good clearance to other fixtures.

    front hanger detail.jpg

    There is an alternative way to deal with the bush Can Am provide in their original grab rail mounting. If you reverse it you won't need to use a washer between it and the hanger - the inside edge is flat, not recessed like the outside edge.

    If you don't have an MBL rack, then here is the way the mounting screw and washer attach the hanger to the grab rail components.

    DSCF2447.jpg

    Behind the hanger is the black washer retrieved from inside the grab rail mounting, then the bush, then the grab rail.

    I don't have photos but the alternative mounting under the hanger is to not use a washer and turn the oem Can Am grab rail bush back to front so that the recess is inside and the flat edge is to the outside.

  25. #25
    Very Active Member HayRog's Avatar
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    Default


    Real nice set-up.

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