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  1. #26
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    Can I bleed the system myself without BUDS?
    Also is the low pressure switch built into the Master cylinder?

  2. #27
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Can I bleed the system myself without BUDS?
    Of course you can. Folks do it all the time. The only thing you need BUDS for is to bleed the VCM. There will only be a small amount of old fluid left in it when your done.

    Also is the low pressure switch built into the Master cylinder?
    No the low pressure switch is a separate switch. Many folks confuse it with the brake light switch or are confused thinking there are 2 brake light switches. It doesn't matter anyway. The low pressure switch is good. If it wasn't you would not have got a C1282 code. It would have been a different code.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  3. #28
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    Thank you billybovine for all the help!!...I will try to get to it this weekend.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    If you think the brake pedal is firm and there are no leaks. Then try and reset the fault.
    Turn the key on and wait until it fully boots up.
    Press down hard on the brake pedal and hold it.
    Turn the key off and wait until it completely shuts down. Wait 30 seconds just to be sure.
    Only then release the brake pedal.
    The fault should be cleared the next power up. If not try again.

    If that does not work after several tries. It could be a bad master cylinder or sensor.
    Been real busy with work and Grand-kids and just stuff popping up.....Any way I was able to call on a friend to help me bleed the brakes today,The Master Cylinder has always felt good and solid,not spongy at all,...but since bleeding it seems like it might be a little more solid (IDK might be imagination)...Anyway I can not get the code to clear (brake MIL stays on and get the "Brake Failure" scroll)....billybovine,If the MC feels rock solid would you try replacing the sensor?(is that the micro-switch that detects if the MC has traveled to far)....If so I can watch the roller on the actuating arm "NOT" roll past the dropoff.,Thanks in advance.

  5. #30
    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    If you believe the low pressure switch is bad. Why not just test it. First. In a quiet location. Listen for the clicks. Press down the brake pedal. The first click is from the brake light switch. The second click is from the low pressure switch. Honestly I am too deaf to hear it for myself. If you are the same get someone with better hearing. Second if you still believe the switch is bad. Test it with an ohm meter. Don't switch parts without a good reason. It just wastes money and time.

    Just to be clear. The low pressure switch is not for detecting if the pedal has traveled too far. In fact it should be activated almost every time the pedal is pressed. It is causes a code if there is not enough minimum pressure in the brake system when the switch is closed. So from your symtoms as described. I think the switch is working fine. If you can't clear the code manually. You will need to find someone with BUDS to clear it for you.

    2018 F3 LIMITED

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Just to be clear. The low pressure switch is not for detecting if the pedal has traveled too far. In fact it should be activated almost every time the pedal is pressed. It is causes a code if there is not enough minimum pressure in the brake system when the switch is closed.
    OK....so the BUDS computer is sensing system pressure?,I will verify the Micro-switch at pedal is not faulty and will try to clear code manually again....Thanks again.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    The low pressure switch is good. If it wasn't you would not have got a C1282 code. It would have been a different code.
    Was able to clear code,....(I don't believe I was pressing down hard enough on brake pedal,when trying to clear fault),I told my youngest son that I need to borrow his ears for the second click.
    billybovine,....I either did not see the above quote you wrote or misinterpreted its meaning,...Thank you so much for help. JP

  8. #33
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    FYI - I'm still getting harassed by 'Brake Failure' warnings on my 2015 ST Limited. They simply come and go away on a regular basis after getting the first one at 6000 miles, we now have 21,000 miles on the ST! Topping off the reservoirs sometimes helps but not always. Just finished a 2 day ride down to Athens area without a single warning and that is pretty unusual. Brake pedal is always firm and never any indication that the brakes are acting up.
    2021 RT Limited , Deep Marsala Metallic (red)

  9. #34
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    I know it's an old thread but I have a brake failure code after bleeding brakes on an 11 rt. My code is c0049. Thanks in advance

  10. #35
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    From SpyderCodes for 2011 RT

    C0049 module VCM

    Brake Failure (Brake Fluid)

    Low brake fluid

    Verify brake fluid level in both reservoirs for proper fluid fill.

    .....


    Be aware that these Spyder things are EXTREMELY sensitive to low brake fluid, so even if it looks OK, if there's ANY space in there at all, add a little - even maybe half a teaspoon full might make the difference! . It's also worth poking the floats with something clean to make sure they're free; and when you put the caps back on, make sure the bigger raised ridge on the top of the lid is facing aft, with the notch in the rubber seal thing aligned properly too.

    Good Luck!
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

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