Brake Failure warning message

[Randy McClure]

2011 rt. Brakes work great, Replaced rear brakes no problem, came back and bled brakes, failure message comes up!
I think the mistake I made was turning the key to the on position. Any thoughts? or suggestion on a reset.

Thanks

[Chupaca]

Make sure you refilled the resivoirs to the full level.Check the sensor and wires to the ABS rear brake. Check the brakelight switch at the pedal, check the senors at the resivoir tanks and all brake lights. Shut her down and remove the key and allow the computers to reset. Hopefully it is just the fluid level or the computer reset...

[billybovine]

With the Brake Failure Message on the screen. Press the Mode, Set and Turn Signal Cancel at the same. The code(s) will appear. Write them down and post here. We will point you in the right direction.

[Randy McClure]

With the Brake Failure Message on the screen. Press the Mode, Set and Turn Signal Cancel at the same. The code(s) will appear. Write them down and post here. We will point you in the right direction.

c1282

[JKMSPYDER]

​Check brake circuit for possible fluid leak.

[billybovine]

That is what I would expect if you happened to turn on the key before you pumped up the brakes after doing some work. It's a low pressure fault. The brake pedal traveled too far before there was enough pressure in the system. As you said you where afraid of. It is one of the few sticky faults that have to be reset.

Turn the key on and wait until it fully boots up.
Press down hard on the brake pedal and hold it.
Turn the key off and wait until it completely shuts down. Wait 30 seconds just to be sure.
Only then release the brake pedal.
The fault should be cleared the next power up. If not try again.

[sulaco]

With the Brake Failure Message on the screen. Press the Mode, Set and Turn Signal Cancel at the same. The code(s) will appear. Write them down and post here. We will point you in the right direction.

Resurrecting an old thread here,....Im getting the infamous "brake failure scroll"... I have a 2012 RSS SE5 with right at 15k,....Brakes were bled with BUDS last year at dealer,..Problem just started out of nowhere,Brakes perform normally,fluid level is to the very top and I was trying to pull a code by using billybovine's procedure here but I cant get any code to come up,...I press all 3 switches at same time as soon as I see the brake failure scroll...(it only scrolls when its running and PB released)....any suggestions on what I might be doing wrong?...Thanks in advance.

[billybovine]

Resurrecting an old thread here,....Im getting the infamous "brake failure scroll"... I have a 2012 RSS SE5 with right at 15k,....Brakes were bled with BUDS last year at dealer,..Problem just started out of nowhere,Brakes perform normally,fluid level is to the very top and I was trying to pull a code by using billybovine's procedure here but I cant get any code to come up,...I press all 3 switches at same time as soon as I see the brake failure scroll...(it only scrolls when its running and PB released)....any suggestions on what I might be doing wrong?...Thanks in advance.

The problem is that you are using the code retrieval process for a RT and you have a RS. They are not the same.

With engine running.
Press the mode button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display. Make sure you do not release the mode button when you get to "engine hours"
While still holding the mode button. Flash high beams 5 times within 2 seconds.
If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed.
If there are more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.

If you cannot start the engine.
Press and hold the headlight overrun button on the front of the right handlebar controls.
Press the mode button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display. Make sure you do not release the mode button when you get to "engine hours"
While still holding the mode button and headlight overrun button. Flash high beams 5 times within 2 seconds.
If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed.
If there are more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.

[sulaco]

The problem is that you are using the code retrieval process for a RT and you have a RS. They are not the same.

I thought about that after I posted (DOH)....Thank you!,Will get back ASAP.

[Nobodyjj]

Make sure your reservoir lids are on the right way, check your manual!

[sulaco]

I opted for the engine not running method (thx billybovine for the 2 options)I got home from work late afternoon and because I have a pretty loud exhaust and didn't want to disturb anyone later in the evening on this gorgeous Mothers day here in north Texas (Hope everyone had a great Mothers day!).....Anyway I ran the test twice and only code I can retrieve is OC 1282.

[billybovine]

I opted for the engine not running method (thx billybovine for the 2 options)I got home from work late afternoon and because I have a pretty loud exhaust and didn't want to disturb anyone later in the evening on this gorgeous Mothers day here in north Texas (Hope everyone had a great Mothers day!).....Anyway I ran the test twice and only code I can retrieve is OC 1282.

That is a low pressure fault. If there is not enough pressure in either the front or rear brake system. When the brake pedal has moved far enough to trip the low pressure switch. That triggers the code.

Inspect the braking system for leaks. Safety is number one.

Is the brake pedal firm. If not. The brake need to bled again.

If you think the brake pedal is firm and there are no leaks. Then try and reset the fault.
Turn the key on and wait until it fully boots up.
Press down hard on the brake pedal and hold it.
Turn the key off and wait until it completely shuts down. Wait 30 seconds just to be sure.
Only then release the brake pedal.
The fault should be cleared the next power up. If not try again.

If that does not work after several tries. It could be a bad master cylinder or sensor.

[sulaco]

If you think the brake pedal is firm and there are no leaks. Then try and reset the fault.
Turn the key on and wait until it fully boots up.
Press down hard on the brake pedal and hold it.
Turn the key off and wait until it completely shuts down. Wait 30 seconds just to be sure.
Only then release the brake pedal.
The fault should be cleared the next power up. If not try again.

If that does not work after several tries. It could be a bad master cylinder or sensor.

Been real busy with work and Grand-kids and just stuff popping up.....Any way I was able to call on a friend to help me bleed the brakes today,The Master Cylinder has always felt good and solid,not spongy at all,...but since bleeding it seems like it might be a little more solid (IDK might be imagination)...Anyway I can not get the code to clear (brake MIL stays on and get the "Brake Failure" scroll)....billybovine,If the MC feels rock solid would you try replacing the sensor?(is that the micro-switch that detects if the MC has traveled to far)....If so I can watch the roller on the actuating arm "NOT" roll past the dropoff.,Thanks in advance.

[sulaco]

Can I bleed the system myself without BUDS?
Also is the low pressure switch built into the Master cylinder?

[billybovine]

Can I bleed the system myself without BUDS?
Of course you can. Folks do it all the time. The only thing you need BUDS for is to bleed the VCM. There will only be a small amount of old fluid left in it when your done.

Also is the low pressure switch built into the Master cylinder?
No the low pressure switch is a separate switch. Many folks confuse it with the brake light switch or are confused thinking there are 2 brake light switches. It doesn't matter anyway. The low pressure switch is good. If it wasn't you would not have got a C1282 code. It would have been a different code.

[sulaco]

The low pressure switch is good. If it wasn't you would not have got a C1282 code. It would have been a different code.

Was able to clear code,....(I don't believe I was pressing down hard enough on brake pedal,when trying to clear fault),I told my youngest son that I need to borrow his ears for the second click.
billybovine,....I either did not see the above quote you wrote or misinterpreted its meaning,...Thank you so much for help. JP

[sulaco]

Thank you billybovine for all the help!!...I will try to get to it this weekend.

[billybovine]

If you believe the low pressure switch is bad. Why not just test it. First. In a quiet location. Listen for the clicks. Press down the brake pedal. The first click is from the brake light switch. The second click is from the low pressure switch. Honestly I am too deaf to hear it for myself. If you are the same get someone with better hearing. Second if you still believe the switch is bad. Test it with an ohm meter. Don't switch parts without a good reason. It just wastes money and time.

Just to be clear. The low pressure switch is not for detecting if the pedal has traveled too far. In fact it should be activated almost every time the pedal is pressed. It is causes a code if there is not enough minimum pressure in the brake system when the switch is closed. So from your symtoms as described. I think the switch is working fine. If you can't clear the code manually. You will need to find someone with BUDS to clear it for you.

[sulaco]

Just to be clear. The low pressure switch is not for detecting if the pedal has traveled too far. In fact it should be activated almost every time the pedal is pressed. It is causes a code if there is not enough minimum pressure in the brake system when the switch is closed.

OK....so the BUDS computer is sensing system pressure?,I will verify the Micro-switch at pedal is not faulty and will try to clear code manually again....Thanks again.

[knobby]

FYI - I'm still getting harassed by 'Brake Failure' warnings on my 2015 ST Limited. They simply come and go away on a regular basis after getting the first one at 6000 miles, we now have 21,000 miles on the ST! Topping off the reservoirs sometimes helps but not always. Just finished a 2 day ride down to Athens area without a single warning and that is pretty unusual. Brake pedal is always firm and never any indication that the brakes are acting up.

[Motorsickle]

I know it's an old thread but I have a brake failure code after bleeding brakes on an 11 rt. My code is c0049. Thanks in advance

[Peter Aawen]

From SpyderCodes for 2011 RT

C0049 module VCM

Brake Failure (Brake Fluid)

Low brake fluid

Verify brake fluid level in both reservoirs for proper fluid fill.

.....

Be aware that these Spyder things are EXTREMELY sensitive to low brake fluid, so even if it looks OK, if there's ANY space in there at all, add a little - even maybe half a teaspoon full might make the difference! . It's also worth poking the floats with something clean to make sure they're free; and when you put the caps back on, make sure the bigger raised ridge on the top of the lid is facing aft, with the notch in the rubber seal thing aligned properly too.

Good Luck!