On my F3-S the ECU is behind the left side body panel. It is mounted with 3 10mm bolts that have locktite (Grrr) can be a bit fussy to get to the top and forward bolts. The top has to be done with a wrench vs socket. The two wiring loom connectors are a bit tricky to disconnect. You have to push in at one edge of the base of the connector then the latch rotates and you must rotate it all the way down until you hear it click. Very important! Otherwise you will not get them off.
'15 F3-S Pure Magnesium Metallic - Mad Max Edition
'15 Mclaren 650S Coupe - Aurora Blue
"You Were Really Flyin', When I Passed You Back There!"
Chuck
2015 F3-S , Pure Magnesium Metallic/Steel Black Metallic
It's behind the L side panel, the one that says "Rotax" on it. Engine off. Remove the two connectors at the bottom and the three Torx bolts holding ECM to frame.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
The 2014's & newer are fairly easy & might take as little as 10 minutes to remove! Easy as!! For 2012's & older, it's not much more difficult...
However, if you've got a 2013 RT that's a whole different ball game!! Those are fairly diffucult to get at, let alone remove, cos their ECU is sandwiched up front underneath the remote battery terminals & behind the front cross member that the frunk hangs off but in front of the engine & all the air intake ducting!! And those 10mm screws are aimed back away from where you can get at them... plus they are about 25 mm long & on 2 of them the 'extraction space' with everything else remaining in place is only about 15-18mm!! Pulling the air inlet trunking from in front of the engine out entirely & lifting the headlight assy makes it a lot easier to get the ECU out, but doing that does take some fiddling & time & makes for a whole lot of frustration......
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-14-2018 at 06:06 PM.
[QUOTE=JayBros;1336280]It's behind the L side panel, the one that says "Rotax" on it. Engine off. Remove the two connectors at the bottom and the three Torx bolts holding ECM to frame.[/QUOTE
I see the small panel with Rotex on it but I dn see any screws on it. I'm attaching 2 pics, hopefully the right ones. I have foot pegs, does it matter.
2014 RT Limited Matte Silver,Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars, Will it ever stop--NO
When you remove the L side panel look at the small plastic clip on the backside of the top of the panel. When you reinstall the panel be absolutely certain you get it snapped into place on the front body panel. If you don't get snapped in place you can lose the whole side panel at a cost of about $230.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
When you remove the L side panel look at the small plastic clip on the backside of the top of the panel. When you reinstall the panel be absolutely certain you get it snapped into place on the front body panel. If you don't get snapped in place you can lose the whole side panel at a cost of about $230.
Thanks for the tip. Mike
2014 RT Limited Matte Silver,Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars, Will it ever stop--NO
Well I got it on and filled her up with 93 octane and took her for a short ride and did not notice much difference-----until I realized the rear wheel was spinning and I got up to 60 real quick and the throttle response is much quicker. Can't wait til I can really take her out for a long ride. Anyone know what to expect mpg wise? Also I thought I read that I might get better traction by lowering the rear psi. Thanks, Mike
2014 RT Limited Matte Silver,Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars, Will it ever stop--NO
Remove engine ecu
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The 2014's & newer are fairly easy & might take as little as 10 minutes to remove! Easy as!! For 2012's & older, it's not much more difficult... 
Originally Posted by kngfsh27
