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  1. #26
    MOgang Member Yazz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supersuk View Post
    Also, did anyone have problems with their coolant over flow cracking? The previous owner said hers cracked and replaced it with an aluminum one that doesn't fit and just hangs there. I don't like the way it just sits there loose. I was planning to purchase a new oem one, but was also thinking of modding the aluminum one to make it fit better.
    My original coolant reservoir cracked. The new OEM reservoir is more robust and have had no problems since. It's still plastic and you can shine a flashlight on it to read the fluid level.

    "I guess whoever put on the exhaust system didn't install a new gasket on one side as seen in the photo below. The pipe on the right is missing the gasket. Makes me wonder how quiet the trike is with the gasket in place?"

    The OEM gaskets burn out after 1,500 miles. Install Honda 18392-MAM-000 gaskets on both sides. They last much longer, cut the heat down as well as the sound.




    Joy
    Very Happy Ryder...
    '09 Phantom and a '15 F3-S

    If you don't slow down, they can't catch you..
    ​If you don't give up, they can't win.
    What a long strange journey its been.





  2. #27
    Very Active Member oldgoat's Avatar
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    Somebody on here described how he removed the fuel tank the other day. He didn't remove the engine.
    2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
    2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc

  3. #28
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    I did not know these gaskets can burn off!? I did end up purchasing new Honda gaskets because of some recommendations that I read in this forum.

    I was able to remove the fuel tank today. It's a very tight squeeze. Since my tank as surface rust, I'm going to coat it with some KBS rustseal. I've had really good luck with this product in Hawaii. The POR 15 stuff just doesn't work as well and I can't get masterseries in Hawaii. Anyhow, I plan to install the fuel tank before I install the engine to make it easier.

  4. #29
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by supersuk View Post
    .....I tried to take out the fuel tank, but it looks like you need to remove the engine before that can come out.....
    The tank will come out the RHS of the 2013 & earlier models without removing the engine if you get frustrated enough & carefully jiggle it the right way... In fact, I reckon it might be pretty hard to take the engine out without first removing the tank, but luckily I didn't hafta get quite that far! I'd strongly suggest that you check it all out very carefully before trying to put the tank back in before the engine..... that could turn 'a tight squeeze' into 'an impossible task'!!

    Still, it certainly looks like you are getting a lot done & having fun doing it all, good luck with it - and please, keep the pics coming!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-07-2018 at 05:21 AM.
    2013 RT Ltd Pearl White

    Ryde More, Worry Less!

  5. #30
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    No real updates so far. Still chugging along documenting every single bolt, electrical connector, and location of items. I was able to pull out the wiring harness this weekend though. The rear section of the wire harness goes through the backbone of the frame, which will make it very difficult to pass back through with all the bulky electrical connectors. I did however find out why the parking brake on the trike didn't work. The cable was dry and basically frozen inside the protective housing and it was also pinched by the parking brake lever. You can see the kinked cable by the button head bolt.

    20180211_095737.jpg

    I also found more rust in the support panel where the limit switches for the brake lever was. I guess the brake fluid was able to travel down the rubber lines from the reservoir to the master cylinder. Amazing how far the brake fluid will travel if leaks are not fixed.

    20180211_094652.jpg

    Started disassembly of all foot pegs to get those powder coated. They were all frozen so that the pegs couldn't swing up and down. A little PB blaster loosened them enough so that I can press the pins out without any drama. Looking forward to reassembling them with the spring and ball bearing! Not really....

  6. #31
    Very Active Member oldgoat's Avatar
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    Still chugging along documenting every single bolt, electrical connector, and location of items

    I wish you luck there. A bit like cataloguing the Smithsonian.
    2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
    2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc

  7. #32
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    20180213_085723.jpg

    This is where I stand right now. I have the engine all ready to be removed. The mounting bolts are all loose and only hand tight. Can't wait for the engine lifting tool to arrive. All bolts holding the suspension components to the frame is loose and ready to be removed. Once the engine is removed, then all the metal parts go to the powder coater. While all the parts are getting coated, i'll start on the paint work.

    The plan for the paint is a matte black for the lower sections where it would get dirty and possibly scratched from debris and feet, center sections of the trike and tail will be either a metallic orange or blue, and the top sections will be gloss black. Good thing I have a bunch of ppg deltron black left over from my VW build. Just need to buy some of the blue or orange. If all goes well, i'll be done with this project by end of March 2018. crossing my fingers!

  8. #33
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Suggestion.....

    From the picture above it would be a good idea to check that drive pulley (sprocket). Looks like red rust powder associated with it being loose and damaging the splines on both the shaft and the sproket...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  9. #34
    Very Active Member oldgoat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chupaca View Post
    From the picture above it would be a good idea to check that drive pulley (sprocket). Looks like red rust powder associated with it being loose and damaging the splines on both the shaft and the sproket...
    I'm not sure I agree with you there, but worth checking of course. That is far too much rust to come from worn splines. The pulley on my '08 gets rust spots on it after every wash.
    I think it is just the climate it was left in causing the non-painted steel to rust all over.
    2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
    2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc

  10. #35
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    Old Goat is correct. The drive pulley is perfectly fine other than the surface corrosion. All it needs is a quick blast and coat of some KBS rust seal. That coating works well and holds up in the Hawaii Climate.

  11. #36
    Very Active Member ofdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldgoat View Post
    I'm not sure I agree with you there, but worth checking of course. That is far too much rust to come from worn splines. The pulley on my '08 gets rust spots on it after every wash.
    I think it is just the climate it was left in causing the non-painted steel to rust all over.
    If it is only surface rust, you may be correct.
    If it is the red dust it is the beginning of a problem. There are a couple threads on pulley rust. Mine went seriously downhill in a few hundred miles after it was first noticed (and it was replaced at less than 4000). The dust grew to be worse than in the pic in only a few hundred miles.It had never been in the rain or under a hose.
    He's in that far so it's no big deal to check further.
    I will now check my pulley every 1500 mi.
    Last edited by ofdave; 02-14-2018 at 04:56 PM.



    2017 F3, SM6-basic black, plain and simple

  12. #37
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    While reading the service manual, in order for me to do a complete bleed for the brake system, I would need to connect to the BUDS system. That is a big problem since we don't have a CAN-AM dealer here in Hawaii. Is there any way around this? I wonder if there is a way to manually activate the ABS unit so that I can bleed it that way.

  13. #38
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Default super progress!

    PM sent.
    Might as well do the brakes while its out. Tires, too. If we can help, just ask. Nice job.
    Look into a fancan from ISCI. Redirects the heat down from the radiator. Leave off the belly pans. Seat looks fine - once you spend time on it, you will make changes. You have the aftermarket risers. Those are good. Or, any 7/8 motorcycle handlebar will fit in the clamp. You will need a workaround on the switch, but making it fit you and be comfortable is huge! Enjoy the project! Coming along fantastically! Joe
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  14. #39
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    I inspected the drive pulley again and it seems perfectly fine. There is some wear on the pulley, but nothing unusual that I can see. Doesn't seem like the pulley is self destructing. The red rust you see on the front isn't a powdery substance.

    Anyhow, this weekend was a good one. I was able to remove the motor using the engine lift tool. I didn't think it was going to be as big as it was. It hooks onto the brace between the cylinder heads and you just lift the engine out using a cherry picker or with a bar and two people. If you're using two people, you'd need a bar long enough to stretch past the front wheels or just take off the A-arms like I did. I'd estimate the engine being about 150-175lbs. Didn't think it was going to be this heavy, but I did leave all the oil in the engine.

    20180216_145953[1].jpg

    20180217_121021[1].jpg

    Next on the list is to remove the swingarm. I was expecting the swingarm to drop after removing the long bolt, but it didn't. A look in the service manual shows two spacers with a conical end facing the inside at each end. These have to be removed from the inside out. Well, I didn't have a punch long enough so I guess i'll go have to buy some metal rods and punch them out at a later time. Thats where I am at the moment. I'm expecting everything to be apart by this upcoming weekend and have everything delivered to the powder coater by next week. Yay for progress!

  15. #40
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    Its been 8 days since my last update. I was able to remove the swingarm after using a 2 foot length of 3/8-inch steel rod from Home Depot to punch out the two cone shaped bushings that hold the swingarm onto the frame. These cone shaped bushings were stuck in the bearings pretty good on the right side, but the left side was snug.

    20180222_184629.jpg

    Next tough item was the removal of the 4 circular motor mounts inset into the frame just in front of the swingarm. If removed with the proper tool, a blind hole bearing puller, then the job would've been simple. However, murphy's law kicks in and I am not able to receive the tool that I ordered. I purchased the tool from ebay way in advanced knowing that I have to remove bearings and such from the can am. One week goes by with no tracking number provided. I email the seller and they say it was shipped. I still insisted that they send me a tracking number so I can verify that it was shipped. Another week goes by with no response. By this time, I know they're full of ****. Did a claim and got my money back. Seller responded that their supplier doesn't ship to Hawaii. Couldn't have told me this from the beginning?

    Anyhow, I was able to rig something up using a 14" long piece of 3/8" steel rod, two 2-ton 3 jaw pullers, and two long zipties (very important!). I inserted the steel rod into the hole and setup the pullers on each side of the rod. The pullers I used has holes in each of the jaw arms which was used to insert the ziptie to tightly hold the jaws onto the steel washer that's bonded to the rubber bushing. Without the zipties, the puller would slip off the bushing. Using this method, I was able to remove one side. The other side required a backing plate to be held onto the opposite end so that the steel rod could butt up against it and one puller could be used to pull out the remaining bushing. I guess its a little hard to see what I did without any pictures, but I forgot to take some...If anyone needs pictures, I can set it up again to show how I did it.

    20180222_184708.jpg


    Next was the swingarm bearings. The manual calls out for the blind bearing puller to be used, but you can just press it out if you have a press with a very long push rod. Easy enough.

    20180222_184703.jpg

    This is how the frame and swingarm sat until yesterday. I took everything to the powder coater and got the quote. $1024.35 to do a total of 45 pieces, including the frame and swing arm. I still have to get the tires removed from the rims and disassemble the mirror assembly to get those powder coated too. For the mirrors, I definitely need the blind hole bearing puller. There is a bushing that locks in the mirror arm to the mounting base that needs to be removed in order to separate them. Looks like my powder coating bill will come out to about $1300 total. YIKES!

    20180222_184605.jpg
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  16. #41
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    Now i'm working on my brake system and need to go through my calipers. Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding the caliper? Where do I buy the seals? What special tool is needed to remove the yellow anodized pieces from the back of the caliper? Do those yellow anodized pieces need to be removed to rebuild it? Any information would be helpful since I did not see any information in the service manual.

  17. #42
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    Finally able to update something. I picked up all of the powder coated parts, minus the wheels, today. I didn't have any time to take pictures of everything yet, but will be posting it tomorrow. I'm hoping to have everything assembled again by the end of next weekend. I haven't been working on the body panels yet since i've been working on some other stuff. Just wanted to let everyone know that this project isn't dead and i'm not dead...yet.

  18. #43
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    Here are some pictures of the parts after I brought them home from the powder coater. Sure looks pretty. I only opened up the parts that will be assembled soon so more pictures of all the parts will be shown as I install them. In total, I was able to pick up 41 parts. I'm still waiting for the rims and one front fender brace. I really like how the textured parts came out. In hindsight, I should've made the rider and passenger foot rest assemblies textured instead of semi-gloss black.

    2018-03-22 17.49.51.jpg 2018-03-22 17.50.09.jpg 2018-03-22 21.42.37.jpg 2018-03-22 21.43.07.jpg 2018-03-22 21.57.17.jpg

  19. #44
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    This 5 pictures per post sucks... Last night I was able to start the assembly of the brake system and front suspension. These components were really easy to install since I kept them in large sub assemblies that would be ready to install. I purchased new stainless brake lines since the existing was badly corroded on all steel parts. The Arms, spindles, and rotors literally took me 10 minutes per side to install. Next on the list for tomorrow is the swingarm and electrical wiring install. I think these two components will take me the longest. I don't have access to a press so i'll have to find a way to install the swingarm bearings without damaging them. I do have a large C-clamp that could be used for this, but we'll see if it can be used. As for the wiring harness, I foresee days of work installing it. Definitely not going to be a fun weekend...

    2018-03-22 21.37.56.jpg2018-03-22 21.39.08.jpg2018-03-22 21.38.20.jpg2018-03-22 21.39.18.jpg

  20. #45
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    This weekend I was able to assemble almost every mechanical and electrical things on the spyder. I wish I took pictures of the engine installation process, but it was super easy and literally took about 15 minutes. Used my friends engine hoist to install it easily. Before installing the engine, I made sure to check the valve clearances on the engine and replaced the valve cover gaskets. Sucks that you need all kinds of special tools just to do this type of maintenance.

    I had thought the wiring harness was going to be tough to pull through the frame because of its size and the sheer number of connectors, but after removing some of the connectors and taping up the harness, it was easy to pull through. Of course I had to use a solid core copper fishing wire to help pull it. Now i'm just waiting for the wheels to be finished and my lazy ass to start on the bodywork. Cleaning, sanding, and prepping all of these plastic panels suck! Onto the pictures.

    Pulling wiring harness through the frame.
    2018-03-23 19.04.18.jpg

    Installing the projector lights
    2018-03-24 07.19.07.jpg 2018-03-24 07.25.42.jpg

    Small bits and pieces installed
    2018-03-24 10.24.09.jpg

    The foot pegs were all frozen and could be retracted. Also didn't like the silver, so the only thing to do is rebuild them and powder coat it semi-gloss black.
    2018-03-24 10.24.31.jpg
    Last edited by supersuk; 03-27-2018 at 06:00 PM.

  21. #46
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    Starting to position the wiring harness back to where its supposed to be to prepare for the engine installation
    2018-03-24 14.33.33.jpg

    Trunk, headlights, and fog lights installed.
    2018-03-24 16.50.24.jpg

    Engine installed. I'll be installing the header wrap on the left side header as recommended by spyderlover members. I just have to find the wrap that I have stored somewhere in the garage. hahaha
    2018-03-25 11.01.30.jpg
    Last edited by supersuk; 03-27-2018 at 06:12 PM.

  22. #47
    MOgang Member Yazz's Avatar
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    Looking good!
    Joy
    Very Happy Ryder...
    '09 Phantom and a '15 F3-S

    If you don't slow down, they can't catch you..
    ​If you don't give up, they can't win.
    What a long strange journey its been.





  23. #48
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Great progress...

    your coming along leaps and bounds.
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  24. #49
    Very Active Member oldgoat's Avatar
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    It's like watching "Game of Thrones". Can't wait for next week's episode.

    Keep the pics coming please.
    2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
    2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc

  25. #50
    Very Active Member JerryB's Avatar
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    Hi supersuk,

    Re: Starting to . . .

    Absolutely amazing. I wish I could be there to help.

    Jerry Baumchen
    'I'll never forget what's her name.'

    'Things are more like they are now than they ever have been before.' Dwight Eisenhower

    2008 GS SE-5

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