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  1. #1
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    Default 30 psi in frt tires

    I put 30 psi in frt tires handles better and steers easier any one else tried this?

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    I went as high as 23 PSI and thought that was to much.

    I felt better at 19 psi for the Spyder but I am running Federal Formoza on mine.

    Never liked the stock tires.

    Good luck on this topic.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    I'm running 17 lbs and the bike handles great. You can run what you feel comfortable with, but in rain you will see the difference. Also I feel 17 lbs sticks better in curves than the higher pressure. But like I said each to their own.
    David

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    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    Oh, boy.... here we go. I can't believe that there is such hard feelings in this topic!

    I run my front Yokohamas at 26psi's on my RT. Love the handling. Some will claim that 14psi is the only safe pressure.
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    Very Active Member tehrlich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warlock View Post
    I'm running 17 lbs and the bike handles great. You can run what you feel comfortable with, but in rain you will see the difference. Also I feel 17 lbs sticks better in curves than the higher pressure. But like I said each to their own.
    David
    I disagree about the rain. I've run 25-26psi in many different situations. Even tried to skid them out in a wet parking lot, and couldn't get it to happen. My belief is that it is speculation that it will have an unsafe characteristic with this type of psi. I know that I run my RT a lot harder than probably the 'average' Spyder rider. I still can't get them to slide. But, I can get 14psi to mush around like wet socks.

    Someone is dying to get out on this subject.... and, 3....2.....1......
    2015 RT Limited: Fox Shocks - RonJon swaybar and links - BRP Comfort Seat - BRP Triaxis handlebars - Yokohama tires (26psi fronts 28psi back) - Centramatic wheel balancers - BRP belt tensioner - BRP Short windshield - CATdelete/Spyder1 attitude exhaust - Lamonster footpegs - sintered brake pads - LED TRYCLED lights - BumpSkid


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    Very Active Member Warlock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tehrlich View Post
    I disagree about the rain. I've run 25-26psi in many different situations. Even tried to skid them out in a wet parking lot, and couldn't get it to happen. My belief is that it is speculation that it will have an unsafe characteristic with this type of psi. I know that I run my RT a lot harder than probably the 'average' Spyder rider. I still can't get them to slide. But, I can get 14psi to mush around like wet socks.

    Someone is dying to get out on this subject.... and, 3....2.....1......
    I'm running a 08 GS and it is a lot lighter than yours. Like yourself I'm not the average rider. I tend to run the limits. I use to run right with the sport bikes on deals gap on my Honda Valkyrie. Not all of them, but a lot of them.
    David

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    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Here's the thing....

    I run 17lbs and have found that to be the best for my style (agressive as the nanny ) but rain or not traction was not the issue with the higher pressures what I found was hopping in the curves. The best pressure is the one you feel most comfortable with. Car tires with higher ply's can react differently and the higher the pressure the rougher on the driver as you loose some suspension with less flex in the tire. In the end the tire has a max pressure rating stay under that ...
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    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Anyone tried 50 psi yet?

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    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    You haven't said what kind of tires you have.
    If they are stock 2 ply Kendas, then 30 PSI will round out the profile, minimizing the contact patch.
    It puts the bike up on the "Balls Of It's Feet" so to speak.
    This makes it much easier to turn. The bike seems very responsive.
    Until you go out on the highway.
    At highway speeds, that much tire pressure will make the bike seem twitchy, and almost uncontrollable.
    Also, by rounding the profile, you create excessive wear, necessitating early tire replacement.
    The minimum contact patch won't be helpful in the rain.
    But, it's a matter of choice. If you're comfortable with the feel of the bike and your style of riding, then go for it.
    The tires won't shred or fall off the rims.

    And if you're NOT running the stock Kendas, and have a different brand, then I don't know what I'm talking about and everything I said could be wrong.
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    SpyderLovers Ambassador Little Blue's Avatar
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    Default Front Tires

    All Good Tips. The Bottom Line is 'Your Choice'. Little Blue
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    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default tire psi

    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeWheels View Post
    You haven't said what kind of tires you have.
    If they are stock 2 ply Kendas, then 30 PSI will round out the profile, minimizing the contact patch.
    It puts the bike up on the "Balls Of It's Feet" so to speak.
    This makes it much easier to turn. The bike seems very responsive.
    Until you go out on the highway.
    At highway speeds, that much tire pressure will make the bike seem twitchy, and almost uncontrollable.
    Also, by rounding the profile, you create excessive wear, necessitating early tire replacement.
    The minimum contact patch won't be helpful in the rain.
    But, it's a matter of choice. If you're comfortable with the feel of the bike and your style of riding, then go for it.
    The tires won't shred or fall off the rims.

    And if you're NOT running the stock Kendas, and have a different brand, then I don't know what I'm talking about and everything I said could be wrong.
    What you said above about Kenda's is very much correct .......... Kenda's are weak compared to Auto tires ...... But high psi in auto tires will lower their traction also and for some of the same reasons ............Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 12-30-2017 at 09:36 AM.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    I find that 20 psi works best for me on my RSS, RT, and F3T when riding aggressive. I sometimes go to 18 when just cruising.
    I have tried 32 psi in my RSS and found that there was a little too much bounce when the road got a little rough.
    Just try what works best for you and take the others advice with a grain of salt.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    What you said above about Kenda's is very much correct .......... Kenda's are weak compared to Auto tires ...... But high psi in auto tires will lower their traction also and for some of the same reasons ............Mike
    Kenda's are "weak" only because they have a softer rubber tread....because the machine they support is lighter.(to maintain traction)
    Car tires are stronger....... because the machine they support is heavier.
    My stock Kenda tires are doing awesome. 15,000 rear and 20,000+ for the front.
    No need to risk extending my breaking distance to save a few bucks (or risk an accident).
    What I'm reading on the use of car tires is why dealers, car tire manufacturers and installers mandate a waiver be signed.

    BTW....I keep my awesome Kenda tires at 19PSI front and 28PSI rear.

    19 in the front cause I installed the Baja Ron sway bar which eased up on the steering effort.

  14. #14
    Active Member nslowmotion's Avatar
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    Default psi

    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Anyone tried 50 psi yet?

    i find that running 90 to 125 psi works the best in mine

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    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akspyderman View Post
    Anyone tried 50 psi yet?

    How about 75 psi or even a 100 psi. They float better when crossing rivers with the higher PSI's right?


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    Quote Originally Posted by Road-Kill View Post
    ...My stock Kenda tires are doing awesome. 15,000 rear and 20,000+ for the front...
    My rear Kenda did 17K (below) but my front Kendas still have at least 25% tread-life remaining at over 45,000 miles! I run the recommended 18-22psi in them.

    But then I don't have very much hard turning to do; mostly just flat & straight here in the Rio Grande Valley.
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  17. #17
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default TIRE PSI

    Quote Originally Posted by Road-Kill View Post
    Kenda's are "weak" only because they have a softer rubber tread....because the machine they support is lighter.(to maintain traction)
    Car tires are stronger....... because the machine they support is heavier.
    My stock Kenda tires are doing awesome. 15,000 rear and 20,000+ for the front.
    No need to risk extending my breaking distance to save a few bucks (or risk an accident).
    What I'm reading on the use of car tires is why dealers, car tire manufacturers and installers mandate a waiver be signed.

    BTW....I keep my awesome Kenda tires at 19PSI front and 28PSI rear.

    19 in the front cause I installed the Baja Ron sway bar which eased up on the steering effort.
    Sorry R.K. but #1 & #2 are wrong, plus #2 doesn't make sense !!!! ..... Kenda's are weak because they don't have enough plies or strong enough plies to support more weight ............. and concerning Braking distance vs. cost ..... 1 inch of braking distance could mean $1000.00 plus in body panel damage ....annnnnnnnnnnd your Kenda Spyder tires ....NEEDS those psi's because it is a weak tire, and has nothing to do with tread compound...... Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Sorry R.K. but #1 & #2 are wrong, plus #2 doesn't make sense !!!! ..... Kenda's are weak because they don't have enough plies or strong enough plies to support more weight ............. and concerning Braking distance vs. cost ..... 1 inch of braking distance could mean $1000.00 plus in body panel damage ....annnnnnnnnnnd your Kenda Spyder tires ....NEEDS those psi's because it is a weak tire, and has nothing to do with tread compound...... Mike
    Kenda tires are not "weak"....they have a softer rubber compound because they need to stop a lighter vehicle.
    The reason tire manufacturers will not list certain vehicles is due to the weight of the intended vehicle.
    They know from their research a stronger tread on a lighter vehicle causes braking distances to increase.
    Your complete lack of knowledge is why there are waivers to be signed or flat out denial of a tires sale.
    You are a classic example of a know-it-all who does something then blames it on someone else...(why waivers need to be signed)
    Stop pretending you have a clue and are smarter then the engineers/scientists who develop both the tires and its use.
    Log onto any tire website, they talk weight ratings.....not too many cars out there that weigh less then a 1000lbs Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Road-Kill View Post
    Kenda tires are not "weak"....they have a softer rubber compound because they need to stop a lighter vehicle.
    The reason tire manufacturers will not list certain vehicles is due to the weight of the intended vehicle.
    They know from their research a stronger tread on a lighter vehicle causes braking distances to increase.
    Your complete lack of knowledge is why there are waivers to be signed or flat out denial of a tires sale.
    You are a classic example of a know-it-all who does something then blames it on someone else...(why waivers need to be signed)
    Stop pretending you have a clue and are smarter then the engineers/scientists who develop both the tires and its use.
    Log onto any tire website, they talk weight ratings.....not too many cars out there that weigh less then a 1000lbs Mike.
    BK, what's your answer or are you still typing? Be nice now.

  20. #20
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default TIRE PSI

    Quote Originally Posted by Road-Kill View Post
    Kenda tires are not "weak"....they have a softer rubber compound because they need to stop a lighter vehicle.
    The reason tire manufacturers will not list certain vehicles is due to the weight of the intended vehicle.
    They know from their research a stronger tread on a lighter vehicle causes braking distances to increase.
    Your complete lack of knowledge is why there are waivers to be signed or flat out denial of a tires sale.
    You are a classic example of a know-it-all who does something then blames it on someone else...(why waivers need to be signed)
    Stop pretending you have a clue and are smarter then the engineers/scientists who develop both the tires and its use.
    Log onto any tire website, they talk weight ratings.....not too many cars out there that weigh less then a 1000lbs Mike.
    Why have you decided " Attacking me personally " proves or bolsters your theories on this subject ???? .... I'm not a " know-it-all " and I resent the inference..... the views I express on tires is based on my Schooling and training in the subject. I have testified in Court about what tires can and can't do based on my knowledge. It's known as " Expert witness testimony " , NOT - " know-it-all testimony ". There are people who THINK they know what they are talking about .....and a couple here who actually KNOW what they are talking about............ Everyone has the right to believe what they want, the problem arises ( for me ) is when they make statements that are Scientifically false, and that information could potentially hurt people ..... I will never argue with anyone who states that red ( or blue - white - yellow etc. ) is the best / nicest color, because it doesn't matter. But tire " PSI " does...... My message is about safety ..... frankly I don't know what your message is ............ Mike

  21. #21
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    I always loved a good tire thread.

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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    I always loved a good tire thread.
    lol....true.
    The back-n-forth argument gets too funny at times.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    Why have you decided " Attacking me personally " proves or bolsters your theories on this subject ???? .... I'm not a " know-it-all " and I resent the inference..... the views I express on tires is based on my Schooling and training in the subject. I have testified in Court about what tires can and can't do based on my knowledge. It's known as " Expert witness testimony " , NOT - " know-it-all testimony ". There are people who THINK they know what they are talking about .....and a couple here who actually KNOW what they are talking about............ Everyone has the right to believe what they want, the problem arises ( for me ) is when they make statements that are Scientifically false, and that information could potentially hurt people ..... I will never argue with anyone who states that red ( or blue - white - yellow etc. ) is the best / nicest color, because it doesn't matter. But tire " PSI " does...... My message is about safety ..... frankly I don't know what your message is ............ Mike
    Hey Mike. I am also as you stated...."an expert witness".
    I (we) could not testify that we know better then a tire manufacturer, you would be laughed out of a courtroom if you did.
    That testimony would only come from a tire manufacturer.
    My statement, albeit harsh, was to demonstrate you are not an expert in that field.
    PSI means little if the tread is too hard for the weight of the vehicle.
    Adding another slight problem, the Spyder is 2000-3000 lighter then a car AND missing a tire.
    That missing tire decreases traction and adding a harder tread is adding greatly to traction loss.

    I have 20,000+ miles on my Spyder with the same front tires still going strong.
    I am not going to mess with what BRP mandates because some random digits on my screen says BRP is wrong.
    I am not going to let anyone I know put the wrong tires on anything that might cause them harm without my 2cents mentioned.

  24. #24
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default experts

    Quote Originally Posted by Road-Kill View Post
    Hey Mike. I am also as you stated...."an expert witness".
    I (we) could not testify that we know better then a tire manufacturer, you would be laughed out of a courtroom if you did.
    That testimony would only come from a tire manufacturer.
    My statement, albeit harsh, was to demonstrate you are not an expert in that field.
    PSI means little if the tread is too hard for the weight of the vehicle.
    Adding another slight problem, the Spyder is 2000-3000 lighter then a car AND missing a tire.
    That missing tire decreases traction and adding a harder tread is adding greatly to traction loss.

    I have 20,000+ miles on my Spyder with the same front tires still going strong.
    I am not going to mess with what BRP mandates because some random digits on my screen says BRP is wrong.
    I am not going to let anyone I know put the wrong tires on anything that might cause them harm without my 2cents mentioned.
    ..... I have a feeling that you had a distant relative who was at " Kitty Hawk " and EXPERTLY remarked ............. that thing will never fly ........ ..... and PS the world isn't Flat ......and PPS " Butt " theory is as valid as Bar Stool - BS ....... also ....Happy New Year , Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 12-30-2017 at 05:53 PM.

  25. #25
    Very Active Member hypurone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trikermutha View Post
    I went as high as 23 PSI and thought that was to much.

    I felt better at 19 psi for the Spyder but I am running Federal Formoza on mine.

    Never liked the stock tires.

    Good luck on this topic.
    I was running at 19 on my AZ01's and it handled great but I have some injuries that beg to have lighter/less effort steering and I have moved up to 22psi cold. It still handles great but is soooo much easier to bend into the corners. I do feel it being a little more nervous at warp speed on a rough road but until I heal all the way (Please God, make this day come sooner!) the higher pressure is where it is at for me.
    Last edited by hypurone; 12-30-2017 at 07:38 PM.

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