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  1. #1
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    Default not for the meek

    all apart for plugs/wires and JT's air cleaner assembly. only a fuzz under 14,000 miles but I think this might be a good time to remove the rocker covers and check some clearances.IMG_6434.JPGIMG_6435.JPGIMG_6436.JPG

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Choices, choices

    While your there and in the mood....and you have a V-Twin... most don't or have not needed any adjustment at that mileage and I have almost 40,000 and still good but be sure you have what you need to do it...busy man with fun projects...enjoy..
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Bensonoid's Avatar
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    That nightmare is still fresh in my mind...I did it to mine about 3 months ago. The scars on my hands are barely noticeable now.
    2015 RTS Special Series
    Russell Day Long seat
    F4 Customs windshield
    Sena 20s

  4. #4
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Default

    10 points for bravery. Some of those jobs can be daunting. The is not a user friendly machine when it comes to working on them.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  5. #5
    SpyderLovers Sponsor BajaRon's Avatar
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    It is extremely rare that you will need cam/lifter/shim adjustment. Even after 50k it's not common to need it.
    Shop Ph: 423-609-7588 (M-F, 8-5, Eastern Time)

    Only SLOW people have to leave on time...





  6. #6
    Very Active Member DGoebel's Avatar
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    Default

    Kudo's to you (oh mighty mariner), I just looked at changing my '13's air filter and didn't even try it. I've removed the frunk, all the tupperware, and the rear tire, but getting under that tank/dash is too tight for my meaty paws... I'm gonna pay a dealer for that job....
    Safe Rides,
    David and Sharon Goebel
    Both Retired USAF Veterans
    2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
    Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
    IBA 70020

  7. #7
    Very Active Member spacetiger's Avatar
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    Default A suggestion while it is apart.

    While you have it apart, I would suggest you wrap the exhaust to keep the heat in check.

    Most have used the standard exhaust wrap but I found the 1" or 2" thick ceramic blanket material to be superior in heat insulation. It can take 2,300 degrees F all day no issues, much easier to put on, and is cheap; here is an example on ebay for some 2" thick stuff for $20.:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-Fib....c100005.m1851

    Once on, I used an aluminum dryer duct cut lengthwise to encase the ceramic blanket. It looks clean and really cuts down the heat.

    A pic of the job on my 2013 STL


    Jerry
    Last edited by spacetiger; 12-29-2017 at 01:02 AM.
    13 ST Limited F/R suspension, Corbin, GIVI top case

    16 Vespa Primavera 150: Stock
    16 Piaggio BV350: Suspension, braking mods in work
    14 HD XL1200T: F/R suspension and brake mods; Corbin saddle and bags
    09 Aprilia SC250: F/R suspension and minor brake mods
    97 Honda PC800: F/R wheels, F/R suspension, and F/R brake Mods; Corbin saddle
    90 CB-1: In work, long term project
    89 Honda NT650: F/R suspension; Corbin saddle

  8. #8
    Very Active Member youngers's Avatar
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    Default good job on the " take down "

    Quote Originally Posted by quasi View Post
    all apart for plugs/wires and JT's air cleaner assembly. only a fuzz under 14,000 miles but I think this might be a good time to remove the rocker covers and check some clearances.IMG_6434.JPGIMG_6435.JPGIMG_6436.JPG
    hahahhaa , need to ride in the parade with all the skins off ( I give up , where are the plugs ? )

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by youngers View Post
    hahahhaa , need to ride in the parade with all the skins off ( I give up , where are the plugs ? )
    front plug just forward of the throttle body on right side of head. you can see the ribbed loom on the plug wire. rear plug on left side of the engine. worst part was getting the airbox base out as I didn't want to remove the right lateral stabilizer bar. it was tight but it came out with some persuasion. the entire airbox assy is out including the resonator portion.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Mikey's Avatar
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    They look so sad without all the Tupperware off them, like a wet puppy! Your a better man than I, Good luck!
    Last edited by Mikey; 12-29-2017 at 03:55 PM.
    2012 RTL , Pearl

  11. #11
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    Default This is in my mind for next years winter upgrade. Here is this years plan.

    I have a 2012 RTSE5 with 18k on it. I took the bike from my house here in Indiana to my daughters house in Rock Hill SC. My winter projects are
    Bleed brakes, check pads / wear.
    Oil Change - check all fluids.
    Replace rear tire (have General Altimax R43 ready to install.
    Replace plastic belt tensioner with DOC's metal one.
    Install Elkas on all three
    We were lucky enough to win the bid on a pair of custom hubs at last years Spiderfest - so I added new General Altimax R43's to these, and they are ready to mount on the bike.
    Install new seal on frunk.

    I am not a mechanic, or experienced on this mechanical stuff. But I don't think I'm to thick in the head, plus there a great how to videos to follow for most of this stuff. Plus I am excited to get south and start working on my bike.

    I would welcome any suggestions the more skilled have to offer.

    Next year, I want to tackle plugs, wires, air filter

  12. #12
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    Default

    X rated nudity ??

  13. #13
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    Nekkid Spyder!!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  14. #14
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spacetiger View Post
    While you have it apart, I would suggest you wrap the exhaust to keep the heat in check.

    Most have used the standard exhaust wrap but I found the 1" or 2" thick ceramic blanket material to be superior in heat insulation. It can take 2,300 degrees F all day no issues, much easier to put on, and is cheap; here is an example on ebay for some 2" thick stuff for $20.:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-Fib....c100005.m1851

    Once on, I used an aluminum dryer duct cut lengthwise to encase the ceramic blanket. It looks clean and really cuts down the heat.

    A pic of the job on my 2013 STL


    Jerry
    thanks, gonna order some of this. splitting aluminum dryer duct is a good idea.

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