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Senile Member
It's enough to disconnect either one. But it would be safer to disconnect the negitive terminal. My Hindle also back fires from time to time when backing off the throttle. I think its got a slight leak at the Y-joint. I am going to true up the pipe and apply a little RTV to seal it up good-n-tight and see if I am still getting backfire.
Silver SM5 PE# 1274, Hindle Exhaust, Touring Windshield, Caliper Trim, B.E.S.T. 3 Year Ext, Nuvi 255 GPS, Fog Lights, Sport Rack, Back Rest, 12V Outlet, Talon 3300p Alarm, NMN Mud Flap and TipZ LEDs, SpyderLovers Emblems, Kuryakyn Widow Pegs and Axel Trim, Luimoto seat skin, Evo Air Filter and O2 Mod, Cranker Tank Bag, Blue Sea fuse block, MAD/AMS/MBG, Oddyssey battery, IPS.
Service Bulletin Applied: Gen II parking brake, 2nd SW patch, evap can/hose update, Gen II DPS
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I just got some permatex ultra copper rtv.
I'll give it a try. I hope the pipe has stayed true after it was torqued. I'll let you know. I'll let it set up for about 24 hrs and then do a reset.
Thanx
Max
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M2wild,
I was wondering about the reset as I didn't have to reset my clock?
Max
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Mod Maniac
Originally Posted by max continuous
I just got some permatex ultra copper rtv.
I'll give it a try. I hope the pipe has stayed true after it was torqued. I'll let you know. I'll let it set up for about 24 hrs and then do a reset.
Thanx
Max
Better yet, just disconnect while it's drying.
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ata = allergic to asphalt
My mods: https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...ead.php?t=5753
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There are two kinds of people: (1) those who can read, reason and apply the experiences of others; and (2) those who just have to pee on the electric fence. ataDude, 2009
My Spyder:
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I've read many posts about concerns on "backfiring" when letting off on the throttle. My Spyder has the Two Brothers dual exhaust and will emit a POP now and then, and my Harley Road King, with aftermarket pipes, does the same. Also, I ride a Ducati 1098 with the full Termi exhaust and ECU, and that will emit a popping noise when slowing down. All of my bikes seem to run perfectly, so perhaps this is just normal.
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Very Handy Member
My Hindle pops and also an occasional backfire but it never seems to cause any problems. I really don't think about it. Maybe I should. I haven't had a problem with it yet and it has been doing this for thousands of miles. Yes I have had the gaskets replaced also and the GPS.
With Christ all things are possible, so live life with no fears and no worries.
Happy Ex Owner, Hopefully future Spyder owner again.
Pastor Deb Tangen, Missions Director and short term missionary.
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Alignment Specialist
Originally Posted by dltang
My Hindle pops and also an occasional backfire but it never seems to cause any problems. I really don't think about it. Maybe I should. I haven't had a problem with it yet and it has been doing this for thousands of miles. Yes I have had the gaskets replaced also and the GPS.
When does this occur? I sometimes wonder if it's like the effect you get with a tractor (love my John Deere!)...
If you shut your bike off after running at high RPMs without letting the engine 'catch up', it will backfire...this might be the same with dramatically dropping off the RPMs while riding...
If you're just riding around at relatively controlled RPMs and it backfires, then obviously this is a different situation...
Bone Crusher
If you work to make money, you'll never be happy, as there's never enough money...if you work to take good care of people, the money will always be there....Sean O'Connell, 1999
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Very Handy Member
Originally Posted by bone crusher
When does this occur? I sometimes wonder if it's like the effect you get with a tractor (love my John Deere!)...
If you shut your bike off after running at high RPMs without letting the engine 'catch up', it will backfire...this might be the same with dramatically dropping off the RPMs while riding...
If you're just riding around at relatively controlled RPMs and it backfires, then obviously this is a different situation...
It is usually when I slow down quickly from higher speeds.
With Christ all things are possible, so live life with no fears and no worries.
Happy Ex Owner, Hopefully future Spyder owner again.
Pastor Deb Tangen, Missions Director and short term missionary.
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I don't mind the occasional pop or spit. As someone said I think a certain amount is normal with a pipe.
My bike has developed a stutter and lack of power at low rpm. When turning at an intersection it will either threaten to stall or if you gas it to push through this zone then it's a "spirited" ride through the intersection.
The silicone only has a few more hours to cure and then we'll see.
Max
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Active Member
I put on the high flow filter and the 2 bros single can - I had backfiring on decel - this is caused by a lean fuel condition. I added the 02 sensor override and have not had one pop or backfire since.
I will not add anything else to this setup, because this is the first bike I have added a pipe to that did not snap, crackle and pop when I let off the gas. Got all the performance increase and no side effects - gotta love that!
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I have the same issue. However, I have learned that it is "normal" and my bigger issue is the surging I get at a steady cruise, but thats another topic.
I talked to 2 bro's racing and they say its always there, but you just don't hear it with the stock muffler, just the aftermarket units. Basically when you let off the gas, the spark is also turned off, so the fuel is not combusting in the pistons.
I also found this article to be interesting:
Deceleration Backfire is caused by fuel burning in the exhaust manifold or header.
No ifs ands or buts, that’s what causes it. But the bigger question is how does gas get there in the first place, and that’s a bit more complicated. Generally, there are a variety of ways it gets there, and a variety of things that can make the backfiring worse. But there’s a kicker, and something you should understand before we go any farther:
A motor in perfect tune will exhibit deceleration backfiring.
Therefore, just because your motor is banging it up, doesn’t mean there’s anything wrong. And consequently:
Getting rid of the noise means de-tuning your motor.
Yup. If you’ve jut got to eliminate that popping, you’ll have to accept the fact that your motor is going to be forced to run rich to do it, and that isn’t necessarily a good thing.
Ok, so you’re driving along at some given rpm, and suddenly you decide to decelerate, and you reduce the amount of throttle. This causes an “overrun” – that is, the motors rpm is turning faster than the fuel provided can support, so the motor begins to spool down. This causes a couple of things to happen.
First, when you close the throttle, you are also closing the throttle plate. This reduces the air and fuel flowing into the motor, and increases the vacuum (lowers the pressure). This results in less air and fuel in the cylinder during the power stroke, which in turn results in a lower pressure in the [COLOR=#c80000! important][COLOR=#c80000! important]combustion [COLOR=#c80000! important]chamber[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]. The A/F mix burns faster in proportion to the pressure applied? Well, when we reduce pressure this way, the mix burns slower. This results in two things happening.
1. The lower burning fuel generates less heat, and the cooling effect of the non-burning fuel tends to “quench” the flame front, or slow it down even further. Because the mix is burning much slower, the exhaust valve can open before all the fuel is consumed, and the unburnt fuel is ejected into the exhaust.
2. The engine designers, in order to promote smoother idling and better combustion, retard the spark when the throttle is shut, and this results in the mix being lit later.
So, now we end up with unburnt fuel in the exhaust, and burning fuel being ejected into the exhaust, and bang! Backfire.
So the bottom line, is: That backfiring is perfectly normal and expected. If you’ve just got get rid of it, that’s up to you. You’re entitled to set your motor up the way you want, and your goals are your goals. But don’t refer to it as “fixing” the popping. Rather, the correct way to think of it is “de-tuning a bit to get rid of the popping”.
You will get worse gas mileage by getting rid of it because you will have to run richer on decel inorder to raise the chamber pressure engough to burn all the fuel.
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Very Handy Member
Thanks for the info blinc, it makes me feel a bit more comfortable.
With Christ all things are possible, so live life with no fears and no worries.
Happy Ex Owner, Hopefully future Spyder owner again.
Pastor Deb Tangen, Missions Director and short term missionary.
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Registered Users
I too appreciate that info! I have the Micron on my and really didn't notice the popping, etc., until riding behind dltang and bjt last weekend. I've been a bit worried, but I feel better now. Thank you!!!
Number One: 2008 Yellow GS SM5. I love my Spyder.
Number Two: 2012 RT-S Limited (the poop colored RT) I still have Number One, but Some Girl made me buy Number Two...
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by HDXBONES
Don't know where you found that article, but it reads to me to apply more to the old carb days. In a modern fuel injection system, fuel AND ignition timing are PRECISELY controlled by the ECU. There is no overrun. Fuel and spark delivery are governed by RPM, throttle percentage and manifold absolute pressure. Changes are instantaneous. If that "article" was correct, the Spyder would afterfire(not backfire, that happens through the intake) regardless what exhaust were on it, INCLUDING the stock system. The reason that it afterfires is that the aftermarket exhaust and/or intake changes are significantly making a marginally lean stock condition even leaner. When you decelerate, the mixture can become so lean, that there is not enough oxygen left to support a complete burn. When those extraordinarily hot unburned vapors are introduced to fresh air in the exhaust, through reversion or leak, they explode. That is your 'popping'. The only way to eliminate it is to richen the mixture during decellaration. If you start from a richer running condition, the decel leanness isn't as pronounced. There are a couple options out there for the Spyder. The correct way to tackle it is to dyno tune the entire ignition AND fuel maps after ANY intake and/or exhaust changes, but that option isn't available yet. Don't let anyone tell you that decel afterfiring or part throttle surging is 'normal'. It isn't. Does your car or truck do it? It is a sign that the engine is too lean, and when it is too lean, it is also too hot. When it's too hot, bad things can happen. I wouldn't let my bikes run like that.....
100%. Overly lean conditions will also cause throttle surging and lag. Just because it is "common", doesn't mean it is "normal."
-Scotty
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Registered Users
AAAHHH!!! After my reply, I read HXD's message...now I'm all worried again!
Now what?
Number One: 2008 Yellow GS SM5. I love my Spyder.
Number Two: 2012 RT-S Limited (the poop colored RT) I still have Number One, but Some Girl made me buy Number Two...
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Very Handy Member
Originally Posted by Some Guy
AAAHHH!!! After my reply, I read HXD's message...now I'm all worried again!
Now what?
Are you sure you weren't hearing my popping? If you never noticed it before, it might not be you. Unless of course you are still doing it.
With Christ all things are possible, so live life with no fears and no worries.
Happy Ex Owner, Hopefully future Spyder owner again.
Pastor Deb Tangen, Missions Director and short term missionary.
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Of course it could just be the actual riders doing all that backfiring and we just want to blame it on our spyders??
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Originally Posted by HDXBONES
In a modern fuel injection system, fuel AND ignition timing are PRECISELY controlled by the ECU. There is no overrun. Fuel and spark delivery are governed by RPM, throttle percentage and manifold absolute pressure. Changes are instantaneous.
Hey HDX, in these modern fuel injected engines, wouldn't the fuel be shut off completely during decel?
Edit: Looks like some of them shut off for various reasons:
http://www.gassavers.org/archive/ind...ing/t-865.html
Last edited by spyryder; 05-22-2009 at 12:43 AM.
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