Guess when I used Premium vs Regular

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

For me, this has been a real hoot!!

Many of you aren't going to want to believe this, BUT......

The poll option that most closely matches my fuel selection over the 2016 and 2017 riding seasons is ---------

The option that got ZERO VOTES!!

That's right. I ran premium all the time (unless it wasn't available which was very seldom) until about 15,000 miles when I switched to regular on my trip to Homecoming. My nephew who went with me to Homecoming said he runs regular all the time in his 2010 RT and has experienced no problems, so I decided to see what the result would be for me. Since I haven't had any reason to tear down the engine, and have no plans to do so, I cannot say what the effect has been inside the engine. But I will unequivocally say premium does not give better gas mileage!

I hope all of you have enjoyed this exercise!

[JIM W]

The only reason I use premium is because it's the only fuel I can get without ethanol!
that crap destroys seals.

[Easy Rider]

The only reason I use premium is because it's the only fuel I can get without ethanol!
that crap destroys seals.

No it does not. Not in an engine that was designed for it, that is.
So that means any engine made in the past 35 years or so.

Note: cheap Chinese two-cycle engines are another story.

[Wildrice]

No it does not. Not in an engine that was designed for it, that is.
So that means any engine made in the past 35 years or so.

Note: cheap Chinese two-cycle engines are another story.

Don't use ethanol in your lawn mower or other small engines that use a spring return on a rubber type diaphragm. Large engines with a fuel pump can usually handle it but ethanol with distort the small engine rubber diaphragm even on current yr small engines. I know it has nothing to do with Spyders but ethanol will need a carb rebuild after a few months--I'm speaking from experience. Maybe those engines were built in ChinaBriggs & Stratton.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Don't use ethanol in your lawn mower or other small engines that use a spring return on a rubber type diaphragm. Large engines with a fuel pump can usually handle it but ethanol with distort the small engine rubber diaphragm even on current yr small engines. I know it has nothing to do with Spyders but ethanol will need a carb rebuild after a few months--I'm speaking from experience. Maybe those engines were built in ChinaBriggs & Stratton.

B & S doesn't agree with you. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...endations.html

Gasoline with up to 10% ethanol (gasohol) or up to 15% MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether), is acceptable. Some fuel stations are now selling gasoline with up to 15% ethanol. This E15 product is not recommended or approved for use in small engines.

BTW, B & S engines are made in USA, believe it or not. At least that's what they say on their web site! Well at least 90% + are US made from what I find. They have 10 plants in foreign countries, I think mostly making engines using brand names other than B & S.

[Easy Rider]

Maybe those engines were built in ChinaBriggs & Stratton.

Having an "American" company name on it does not say anything about where it was built.....so you might be right.

Just for the record, I have been using regular E10 in all of my small engines ever since it came out.
That includes probably 30 different ones over more than 30 years.
Never had ANY problems with anything but grass trimmers and chain saws. It's hard to find those things that are not cheaply made.

For my other things.......lawn mowers mostly, I don't buy cheap stuff and kind of got away from B&S a LONG time ago.
With Kohler or Kawasaki engines, I've had ZERO trouble, with just a tiny bit of good fuel management practices.

[Wildrice]

[QUOTE=IdahoMtnSpyder;1315955]B & S doesn't agree with you. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na...endations.html


I had a 15 yr old Craftsman riding mower. The neighbor would borrow it on occassion & used the 10% ethanol. Two (2) times after she used it approx 2-3 months later--the vacuum operated fuel pump in the carb--the rubber type material distorted. But that was from 15 yrs ago on a Briggs & Stratton Engine. The diaphragm material must have upgraded on newer models. Replaced it last yr with a Cub Cadet 46" Kohler 7000 Series twin cyl. I agree on the B & S but the engine was still running fine--the deck was the maintenance issue. I bought the Cub Cadet because the deck was one (1) gauge thicker than other mfgs. Plus the mulching was best in the reviews.

http://www.fuel-testers.com/manufact...hanol_e10.html

http://www.fuel-testers.com/ethanol_...ms_damage.html

Darrell

[Wildrice]

Very interesting comparison on run between Calif to Las Vegas


https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy...QaAii_EALw_wcB

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Very interesting comparison on run between Calif to Las Vegas


https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy...QaAii_EALw_wcB

First, based on my experience with my Spyder MPG their test was far too short to really be meaningful.

It's not specifically mentioned in the article but it sounds like they were comparing non-ethanol regular with E15. For that type of comparison to have any real meaning today you'd need to have comparisons of E10 vs E15 and each E version against non-ethanol. Given the lower energy output and lower MPG of E10, when compared to non-E I'm doubtful of any cost savings with non-E. Every pump of non-E regular I've seen is higher priced than premium.

The move to E gas was prompted in large part to high levels of imported oil, the fact that corn is home grown, and its ability to boost octane number and help with emission control. One of the drives to E15 is to get more power via compression boost. The original octane booster, tetraethyl lead, is an environmental poison. I read years ago that traces of lead have been found on high mountain top water sources. The only place it could have come from was vapor from gasoline burned in vehicles. The replacement for ethyl was MTBE, but it too is an environmental pollutant when gasoline containing it leaks into the ground, not an uncommon problem.

As an octane booster and oxygenator, and having a lower pollution factor, ethanol looks to be the best choice. From the standpoint of energy output, not including the argument it takes more energy to produce it than it produces, and the impact on food supply, it is a poor choice. As in all things of life, there are no easy answers!

[UtahPete]

As an octane booster and oxygenator, and having a lower pollution factor, ethanol looks to be the best choice. From the standpoint of energy output, not including the argument it takes more energy to produce it than it produces, and the impact on food supply, it is a poor choice.

I didn't know that. Thanks.

[Wildrice]

[QUOTE=IdahoMtnSpyder;1316057]First, based on my experience with my Spyder MPG their test was far too short to really be meaningful.

667 mile r/t on the same hwy was far too short to compare mileage??? Sounded perfect to me.

I spent a week with friends in McCall Idaho on lake Payette --it was beautiful. Also snow skied Sun Valley for a week--very nice also. I'd prefer the mountain areas to live but my wife's children live local in Ohio. I've skied most of major Rocky Mountain resorts--2 decades ago.
Darrell

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'm wondering what you did to control a variable not seen mentioned here (at least in my quick browse through). I have only owned our 2014 RT for a short time but have noticed it is extremely difficult to get it all the way full. I can see where if a person is very patient and intent on getting the tank 100% full they can do so. On the other hand, those who are not so patient will cut short with trickling gas in so they can get on the road more quickly. It is also obvious that the angle the Spyder is sitting will affect how easily it is to fill to the top. The ability of each pump to trickle or not would be a factor as well. So, all that begs the question, in your testing, how did you make sure the tank was filled to exactly the same level every time? That variable of 1/4 to 1/2 gallon can make a huge difference in mileage calculations on a 7 gallon tank.

, Wrong ...it is IMPOSSIBLE to get the liquid amount BRP states the size of you tank holds ......UNLESS you remove the Tank and fill it with the tank at an angle so the opening is Gravitationally level .....BRP's given amount of 6.9 gal. is the Mathematical volume of the tank size ..... Not the actual amount of liquid that can be put in ( when mounted on the Spyder ) ............. A practical example would be , take a glass or cup that can hold EXACTLY 12oz. ,.... now tilt the glass 20 degree's and fill it to the very edge before it spills .....now set the glass up-right, notice that IT isn't full to the top... the same applies to your Spyder ................Mike

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

We should only use Kenda tires, right? And of course, only BRP oil!! At least they don't tell us whose air we need to use in the tires!

.... On page 137 of my Owner's Manual ...it states in BOLD - RED - print " only use BRP dealer certified AIR " when refilling the KENDA tires "....................... ...............Mike