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Originally Posted by Wildrice
If the front wheel rotor has the same diameter as the rear---cutting & inputting all 3 speed sensors to the ECM would produce the same effect as riding in a straight line. Digital frequency is nothing more than pulses & all 3 wheels use them. Unless the ratio from the front is different than that from the rear---how else could it produce a problem?? Just my opinion from spending 20 yrs as an I/O & Mainframe National/International Tech Support Specialist. I just about lived on an airplane for 7 yrs repairing systems in 40+ States & England, France, Germany, & Mexico City. Technology units have really shrank in size but most of the concepts are fairly similar on the output side. I don't miss riding the NYC subway at 2AM-3AM with the weirdo's. When time, weather, & family health issues clear up I will locate the speed sensor wires entering the ECU--cut & splice & go for a ride & let you know the results of my theory. Currently it is 25 degrees in Westerville OH Worse case if the front wheel sensors attach to more than the ECU I will remove the front wheel sensors & splice all 3 sensor wires together at the ECU in lieu of just letting the front wheel sensor wires as an open floating. The ECM maybe sending different signal.wires to the Trans & VSS.
Darrell
Had read on other forums that this was one way to disable anti-slip on older machines that did not have provisions to disable traction control.... (After the mod, traction control reporting 0 slip, all input reading off the front wheel.) But even without mod (me simply disabling t/c on my SE machine) there's not really enough power during warm weather (with sticky tires) to reliably get the tire loose/counter-steer. (So close, but not quite there. And I have no interest/won't hold the brake to build power from a stop, although that might work.)
I hope someone comes up with a good flash for my machine that makes a difference. I'd be happy with 10 - 15% increase. That would make all the difference with traction control disabled. As it is now, 2/3 of the time I accelerate from a stop (even turning onto the road) with traction disabled in warm weather: Instead of the expected slip & counter-steer, all I'm left with is my inside front tire 6 inches off the ground. Definitely not the desired results!
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Last edited by TRLBLZR1; 11-24-2017 at 08:19 PM.
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dyno
I must be missing something here. Who says that you have to have the engine in the bike to dyno ?
It can be dyno tested on a stand - same as a car. So long buds, nanny and all other computer controls.
als
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Very Active Member
Interesting discussion, and here is a video I posted a while ago, yes, you can dyno a Spyder. Can-Am Spyder - Three Wheel Motorcycle - Bing video
As for the ECU reflash, I have a 2015 RT Limited, with a one piece exhaust and the muffler is a fiberglass wrapped can, on the free flowing side. I can't give you horse power numbers, or drag strip times but will say that seat of the pants, my RT seems to have better throttle response, and is smoother running over the whole rpm range. With my wife on the back, it easily spins the rear tire thru 1st gear, I was taking off from a driveway,and had no need to do any more. The same thing whne passing a car on the road, from 65 mph in stead of having to down shift three times like I normally do (and I will say that I have hit the rev limiter (8300 rpm) a couple of times while passing) I only had to downshift twice to get the needed acceleration. Just about the time I felt it was time to shift our of 4th I glanced a the the tach it was at 8500 rpm and so smooth I didn't want to believe it. I can't say any more except my RT is somoother now what ever rpm I'm at, has better throttle responce, and my gas mileage is about the same as it was before, as long as I behave my self. I have no regrets, and the folks at Wick-It Performance ( in La.) were absoultely great to work with. I'm not a street racer or anything like that, but when I ask, I expect performance back. the only wrecks I've had have been on the race track, I've had, and think I understand performance. I've owned a Kawasaki H2 that was warmed over, a Kawasaki Z1, a 170 mph Ducati, and the first Yamaha V-Max in Jacksonville Florida in 1984. I've only been riding for 58 years, so I guess I am really too old to be doing this, I'll be 79 on July 4th.
That ECU flash gives you so much more than just speed, it makes riding two up more enjoyable, and I think my RT is a much nicer all around street bike.
David VonStein
Middleburg, Florida
Last edited by Devious56; 04-19-2018 at 07:49 AM.
How old would you be if you didn't know how old you were?
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Originally Posted by Devious56
Interesting discussion, and here is a video I posted a while ago, yes, you can dyno a Spyder. Can-Am Spyder - Three Wheel Motorcycle - Bing video
As for the ECU reflash, I have a 2015 RT Limited, with a one piece exhaust and the muffler is a fiberglass wrapped can, on the free flowing side. I can't give you horse power numbers, or drag strip times but will say that seat of the pants, my RT seems to have better throttle response, and is smoother running over the whole rpm range. With my wife on the back, it easily spins the rear tire thru 1st gear, I was taking off from a driveway,and had no need to do any more. The same thing whne passing a car on the road, from 65 mph in stead of having to down shift three times like I normally do (and I will say that I have hit the rev limiter (8300 rpm) a couple of times while passing) I only had to downshift twice to get the needed acceleration. Just about the time I felt it was time to shift our of 4th I glanced a the the tach it was at 8500 rpm and so smooth I didn't want to believe it. I can't say any more except my RT is somoother now what ever rpm I'm at, has better throttle responce, and my gas mileage is about the same as it was before, as long as I behave my self. I have no regrets, and the folks at Wick-It Performance ( in La.) were absoultely great to work with. I'm not a street racer or anything like that, but when I ask, I expect performance back. the only wrecks I've had have been on the race track, I've had, and think I understand performance. I've owned a Kawasaki H2 that was warmed over, a Kawasaki Z1, a 170 mph Ducati, and the first Yamaha V-Max in Jacksonville Florida in 1984. I've only been riding for 58 years, so I guess I am really too old to be doing this, I'll be 79 on July 4th.
That ECU flash gives you so much more than just speed, it makes riding two up more enjoyable, and I think my RT is a much nicer all around street bike.
David VonStein
Middleburg, Florida
That's exactly what I have been looking for ..... and I loved the video ... Stay safe and appreciate your expertise
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Steve flashed mine and it runs better, esp at higher revs, would be interested in the 89t. Mike crow
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Originally Posted by wmh9680
Steve flashed mine and it runs better, esp at higher revs, would be interested in the 89t. Mike crow
Steve thought he had this accomplished but a glitch showed up on the test bike...
There are several waiting for this fix to be worked out...
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