I drove it to a dealer and found that it was closed due to Presidents day. I did however check the torque before I left and it was way under the 92 pounds. I torqued it to 92 and went. It should be OK till the next chance I get to drive it down there.
Its a 54 mile trip one way so double that. My wife warned me to call them to verify tat they were open on Presidents day and I forgot after started getting ready to make the trip in upper 30 degree temps. Ill drive it again tomorrow but may have to ride in some rain.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
After seeing that the nut was not torqued and not even a thread lock. I saw that what I need to do in the future instead of checking for red dust, I need to check the torque about every 5-8k miles. If it has broken its lock, I need to remove it and add more thread lock and re torque. Ill ask Chad at Texas Adventure powersports if this is a better way to check than just waiting for visible red dust.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
I discovered the red dust on my 2015 F-3 sport after 13,000 miles two weeks ago. I ordered the pulley sprocket, bolt, washer, off of cheap cycle parts.com...ordered the loc-tite spline grease from amazon. My mechanc installed it and torqued it at 92 ft. pounds...I also installed a new kumho rear tire...as a safety precaution im going to replace the pulley, bolt and washer every two years...and also inspect the pulley at every oil change (every 5000 miles). its not expensive to replace it..as long as you catch it before it fails. This is the best way to do it...my mechanic agreed.
Just got back from getting my Spyder sprocket replaced. They gave me the old sprocket. It was pretty worn and rusty. He said the part number is now different. That means they finally have upgraded the sprocket. A3BA4B14-35AF-45A8-A0E8-04BB8960552B.jpg
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
Just got back from getting my Spyder sprocket replaced. They gave me the old sprocket. It was pretty worn and rusty. He said the part number is now different. That means they finally have upgraded the sprocket. A3BA4B14-35AF-45A8-A0E8-04BB8960552B.jpg
Sorry but that is not correct. Part number 705502134 is still current for all F3 2015 to 2019 and is the same part that was installed on my very early 2015 F3 (unit number 103). There is no upgraded sprocket nor is there any problem with the sprocket. Its the installation of the sprocket that is causing the issues.
I discovered the red dust on my 2015 F-3 sport after 13,000 miles two weeks ago. I ordered the pulley sprocket, bolt, washer, off of cheap cycle parts.com...ordered the loc-tite spline grease from amazon. My mechanc installed it and torqued it at 92 ft. pounds...I also installed a new kumho rear tire...as a safety precaution im going to replace the pulley, bolt and washer every two years...and also inspect the pulley at every oil change (every 5000 miles). its not expensive to replace it..as long as you catch it before it fails. This is the best way to do it...my mechanic agreed.
A local rider that required needing his front pulley replaced informed me that Can Am / BRP is not recommending Loctite in the TST and provided a copy of that info. Seems some have used Loctite, ours was lubed when assembled new and has no wear. Just sharing info, not saying what is correct or better.
Sorry but that is not correct. Part number 705502134 is still current for all F3 2015 to 2019 and is the same part that was installed on my very early 2015 F3 (unit number 103). There is no upgraded sprocket nor is there any problem with the sprocket. Its the installation of the sprocket that is causing the issues.
I am just relaying what they said. I asked him what improvements and he did not know. I just assume that the only improvement they could make was the type of steel but I dont know. I do trust this particular dealers service and Chad who does the work. I could have gone to my local dealer in Greenville but do not trust them. I had to arrange transportation from and to Richardson in some pretty nasty weather in the middle of rush hour in Dallas.
What I will do is go take a pic of the new part and post it to compare the numbers stamped on the outside.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
A local rider that required needing his front pulley replaced informed me that Can Am / BRP is not recommending Loctite in the TST and provided a copy of that info. Seems some have used Loctite, ours was lubed when assembled new and has no wear. Just sharing info, not saying what is correct or better.
I did not use the loctite 648 sealant...I used the BRP recommended moly lube spline paste so it will be easier to remove if/when it needs to replaced in the future...
I am just relaying what they said. I asked him what improvements and he did not know. I just assume that the only improvement they could make was the type of steel but I dont know. I do trust this particular dealers service and Chad who does the work. I could have gone to my local dealer in Greenville but do not trust them. I had to arrange transportation from and to Richardson in some pretty nasty weather in the middle of rush hour in Dallas.
What I will do is go take a pic of the new part and post it to compare the numbers stamped on the outside.
I just went to remove the cover and you are right, it is the same part number. 705502131, but neither one had your number of 705502134 2E768610-6FBB-47A3-B43A-C74896952F6B.jpg
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
I did not use the loctite 648 sealant...I used the BRP recommended moly lube spline paste so it will be easier to remove if/when it needs to replaced in the future...
You mentioned and posted you ordered Loctite, now you say you used moly lube that BRP recommends, pretty certain the BRP stuff is not moly lube. As longas you are happy, all the best with it.
He did say that he used Loctite 648 on the shaft and bolt.
Well, the bolt will not backoff or fall out...
FWIW, most timeswhen using Loctite products with a high strength rating, you must use a lot of heat to soften the bond. I would believe 648 on threads is a very strong bond and myself would be cautious when removing that bolt, fearing it will snap off inside the shaft, but maybe not.
I did not use the loctite 648 sealant...I used the BRP recommended moly lube spline paste so it will be easier to remove if/when it needs to replaced in the future...
FWIW, most timeswhen using Loctite products with a high strength rating, you must use a lot of heat to soften the bond. I would believe 648 on threads is a very strong bond and myself would be cautious when removing that bolt, fearing it will snap off inside the shaft, but maybe not.
Yes I did tell him before to just use regular blue on the bolt. I commented when he said he used 648 that it will be hard to get off, he said he can get it off. Im just hoping that with the 648, the bolt will not back off like the first one did. Im thinking that as long as it keeps its torque, it will hold with the 648 on both. The description on the 648 also says it prevents rust.
What ill do is make a note on the owners manual of the sprocket falure, the mileage and that 648 was used on both the bolt and sprocket. Use heat to remove.
If there is a next time, I'm thinking they will have to replace the shaft also.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
A local rider that required needing his front pulley replaced informed me that Can Am / BRP is not recommending Loctite in the TST and provided a copy of that info. Seems some have used Loctite, ours was lubed when assembled new and has no wear. Just sharing info, not saying what is correct or better.
Would you happen to have the TST number from your posted picture ??
That's what I used on the splines. loc-tite makes a similar spline moly grease item to that(loc-tite part# 51048) ...and that's what I used..the bolt is pre-treated with loctite already on it...just torque it down to spec...ask jcthorne..he uses that grease in his shop for sprocket replacements.
The part number I gave is the replacement part number from the order system in a retail box. The part number stamped on the pulley is the assembly part number shipped in bulk to the factory. If you look up the part in the BRP parts system, you will get the part number I gave you above.
That's what I used on the splines. loc-tite makes a similar spline moly grease item to that(loc-tite part# 51048) ...and that's what I used..the bolt is pre-treated with loctite already on it...just torque it down to spec...ask jcthorne..he uses that grease in his shop for sprocket replacements.
No need to ask James, I inspected the pulley months ago by removal and inspection. I did install the new style bolt after drilling the head for locwire. I assembled the pulley without Loctite, but did lubricate the splines. The bolt and possible corrosion areas were coated with Mastinox. After torquing, the bolt was saftied, and the locwire hole was sealed.
There are several good spline lubes on the market, 3 of them mentioned above. I suspect any of them would do the job far better than no lube. We use the Loctite brand moly paste spline lube at our shop but the others are likely just fine.
I know this is an old, really long, thread but figured it’s the best place for my comments. My wife’s ‘18 F3L has about 12k miles and still no sign of the dreaded red dust on the sprocket. But after reading several pages in this thread it sounds like the proper thing to do to prevent failure is at each oil change remove the bolt and sprocket to inspect, clean, and reapply spline lube with a fresh bolt. Guess I’ll do all this at her next oil change. Does that sound about right?
Oh I’ve already checked, realigned and tensioned her belt, and installed the belt tensioner from lamonster so all that should be ok.
Mine: 2016 Indian Springfield & 2021 Indian Roadmaster
Wife: 2018 Can-am Spyder F3 Limited Pearl White
...... it sounds like the proper thing to do to prevent failure is at each oil change remove the bolt and sprocket to inspect, clean, and reapply spline lube with a fresh bolt. Guess I’ll do all this at her next oil change.....
I dunno, lugnut! Bearing in mind that you're meant to change the oil once a year or at the scheduled milage, whichever comes first, and that the bolt used to hold the sprockets on is meant to be a single use bolt, replaced every time you take the sprocket off, plus the fact that removing/replacing a splined sprocket on/off a splined shaft WILL wear whichever is made of the softer metal; I'd think that changing the bolt & checking the sprocket every year or sooner (as per milage/oil change schedule) would probably be a pretty self fulfilling excercise..... Do it often enough and you WILL wear the sprocket out sooner than it would if you just inspected the sprocket without removal!
I've seen it before, sometimes on quite important and expensive pieces of kit.... Over-servicing can be just as damaging if not more so than under-servicing! So please, don't go needlessly pulling the sprocket off!
Sure, check for the red dust; check the torque on the bolt if you must (but that'll probably hurt the locktite!); maybe even take the belt off & check the sprocket for looseness on the shaft; heck, you might even take the bolt and sprocket off now (just the once!) to inspect, clean, and reapply spline lube with a fresh bolt, then leave it as is at least until there's some indication that it needs attention again! But whatever you do, don't just remove the bolt &/or sprocket every oil change just cos you've read all the doom and gloom reports here! Forums are where people come to resolve problems &/or vent about them, so the number of reports here likely doesn't reflect the reality of all the other Spyders out there with no sprocket issues at all! Besides, doing that 'every oil change' thing would almost certainly cost you a LOT more than is really warranted, and it'd very likely create more bolt/spline/sprocket issues than it'd ever resolve!
Check & inspect in situ, sure, but only remove & replace as & when necessary!
Originally Posted by AllanSpyder
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Bearing in mind that you're meant to change the oil once a year or at the scheduled milage, whichever comes first, and that the bolt used to hold the sprockets on is meant to be a single use bolt, replaced every time you take the sprocket off, plus the fact that removing/replacing a splined sprocket on/off a splined shaft WILL wear whichever is made of the softer metal; I'd think that changing the bolt & checking the sprocket every year or sooner (as per milage/oil change schedule) would probably be a pretty self fulfilling excercise..... Do it often enough and you WILL wear the sprocket out sooner than it would if you just inspected the sprocket without removal! 
