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  1. #1
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    Default Can't decide which model, RT or F3 Limited

    My better half and I are deciding to take the plunge and upgrade from our 2010 RT. It's been great and is still an awesome machine but the 1330 looks better and better in regards to fuel mileage and easier touring. But.... I'm torn between another RT or the F3 Limited with the trunk. The F3 looks really, really good. I love the styling but the main issue is with the comfort compared to the RT's.

    Can anyone who has done the swap from RT to F3 tell me why you changed models and if the comfort is the same or different? I know the storage is a little less on the F3 but that's not really a concern. We can always build our own HF trailer.
    2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series

  2. #2
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    Default Which one ??

    Quote Originally Posted by jroberts650 View Post
    My better half and I are deciding to take the plunge and upgrade from our 2010 RT. It's been great and is still an awesome machine but the 1330 looks better and better in regards to fuel mileage and easier touring. But.... I'm torn between another RT or the F3 Limited with the trunk. The F3 looks really, really good. I love the styling but the main issue is with the comfort compared to the RT's.

    Can anyone who has done the swap from RT to F3 tell me why you changed models and if the comfort is the same or different? I know the storage is a little less on the F3 but that's not really a concern. We can always build our own HF trailer.
    I have had both a RT (2016) and a F3 (2015). I purchased a brand new RT, but then after purchasing questioned why I did not get the F3, as I liked the looks of the F3 that much more. So I sold the RT and went for a lightly used F3. So the differences, the suspension seems more firm on the F3, then the RT. The RT air ride is great. As for passenger comfort, my passenger says the RT is a lot more comfortable. The back seat area is more inviting and cozy then the more open and boxy F3. Luckily my passenger does not ride that often, which allowed me to go to the F3.

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Pirate looks at --'s Avatar
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    Number one, nobody can answer that question for you. You have to test drive the two vehicles and see how they feel for you. I like the F3 L that I have a lot! But, I never ryde 2 up. You will be sacrificing a lot of storage space with the F3. The frunk is smaller, and the saddle bags are smaller. If you can find one, I would suggest that you look at a leftover 16 F3L and add the top case. You will save money, and, you will get better performance from the larger rear sprocket on the 16 F3 L.

    BUT the test ryde is the key, if it doesn't fit you will hate it!
    White 2013 Spyder RT Limited. BajaRon Swaybar, Custom Dynamic Third Brake Light. Ultimate Custom Black and White seat with driver and passenger back rest. Gloryder Led Wheel lights.Custom Dynamics Led Bright sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright sides.

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  4. #4
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Good advice above. Test drive both flavors to see which the two of you like best.

    The consensus seems to be: F3 will give you a cruiser ride but not for two up, and the RT will give you a GW (as in couch) ride.

    The F3 (IMO) looks the coolest--set up in the T mode with bags and top trunk.

    I am on my third RT. Have had two 998's and now also have the 1330. I had a Premier 2010. The change from two cylinder to three (for me) was an improvement in mileage, and maintenance cost. You will get the same with F3.

    I have test sat F3--and it does not fit me as well as the RT. Have waited for a newer iteration of the RT--but that does not look like its going to happen. Looks like I keep the 2014 and just shut up.
    Last edited by ARtraveler; 10-05-2017 at 04:16 PM.

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    Few have an F3 that are trading for an RT but many have the RT trading for the F3 if that tells you anything. I have the F3 but if I was mostly riding 2 up and going long distances a lot I would probably go for the RT.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazzel View Post
    Few have an F3 that are trading for an RT but many have the RT trading for the F3 if that tells you anything. I have the F3 but if I was mostly riding 2 up and going long distances a lot I would probably go for the RT.
    Yeah, we're probably going to stick with the RT. But man, that F3 Limited goes so good.

    I've read where the upgrade from the 998 to the 1330 is a huge improvement.
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jroberts650 View Post
    Yeah, we're probably going to stick with the RT. But man, that F3 Limited goes so good.

    I've read where the upgrade from the 998 to the 1330 is a huge improvement.
    The engine upgrade is worth it. I did not mention above, it's quieter and has more low end torque. The six speed transmission is also a plus.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

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    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member DGoebel's Avatar
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    +1 and as Pirate and others have said, no matter how good that F3 Limited looks, if you aren't comfortable on one, you'll regret buying the very, VERY beautiful looking bike that you're not comfortable on, ADD to that if your passenger isn't comfortable riding back there, a long day of riding that you enjoy, might get you in a world of hurt. We've had our RT for 11 month's and 20 days, have enjoyed riding over 12,000 miles since buying the bike (and it sat in Winter storage for 4 months). We test rode a '17 F3 Limited last month and weren't on it for 15 minutes before my wife (and my back) said NO. On the RT we sit very upright, on the F3 I was pretty laid back and was personally not used to that, and my wife said she didn't like the passenger backrest, (though she DID like being able to see over my helmet).
    Your mileage may vary.....
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    More leg room for the driver on the F3...

  10. #10
    Very Active Member blacklightning's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pirate looks at -- View Post
    Number one, nobody can answer that question for you. You have to test drive the two vehicles and see how they feel for you. I like the F3 L that I have a lot! But, I never ryde 2 up. You will be sacrificing a lot of storage space with the F3. The frunk is smaller, and the saddle bags are smaller. If you can find one, I would suggest that you look at a leftover 16 F3L and add the top case. You will save money, and, you will get better performance from the larger rear sprocket on the 16 F3 L.

    BUT the test ryde is the key, if it doesn't fit you will hate it!
    I agree with what is said above. I had a 2014 RT and loved it, but since I ride solo 95% of the time, and I love the cruiser riding position, I decided on a F3T.
    The only thing that I don't understand is that I (unlike most) actually like the looks of the RT with the hidden engine, better than the F3 series. The biggest seller for the F3T was getting rid of the rear trunk, and the cruiser riding position. Test drive both, and then decide.
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  11. #11
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jroberts650 View Post
    My better half and I are deciding to take the plunge and upgrade from our 2010 RT.......
    Others have said it JR, but I'll add to it - you REALLY hafta do some miles & go with what YOU (& your Missus of course!) like most. That said, I'll throw some of what I discovered & went thru before I decided NOT to upgrade to an F3 OR something with the 1330 motor!!


    Firstly, and yeah, I get that I might be one of the few, but I personally LIKE the 998 motor, I LIKE the seating/ryding position on my RT, & I LIKE the looks and the storage of my RT, I'm not so impressed with the F3 or even the bulkier RT, but the major drawback of the F3 & 1330 motor for ME is that while it might be a wonderful torquey motor that so many rave about, it is IMO quite simply, lazy!! Sure, it pulls like a train from low revs, but it's got nowhere near the excitement that the 998 V-twin has!! The extra gear & the extra range from the triple is nice stuff, and I would appreciate both in my 2013 RT with the V-twin, but the 1330 just doesn't get the heart pumping or the blood coursing anywhere near as quickly or in the same way the V-twin does!! Yeah, I know you can wring it's neck & make the 1330 get up & boogey (eventually.... ) but it still feels like a lazy dinosour that just doesn't ZING from the set-to anywhere near the way the V-twin does. And since I've started looking at/doing some relatively minor mods to improve the range on my RT, I've discovered some upgrades that have not only improved that range usefully but they've also been able to unleash even more performance AND better fuel economy from the smaller V-twin motor, but more on that later & elsewhere in an appropriate time.

    The second thing that REALLY gets to me about the F3 is that 'cruiser' position that some love to ride in..... it just doesn't work for me AT ALL!! I've done a lot of miles on a few different F3's (read a few thousand miles into that), we've played with different U-fit settings, every handlebar option, & various windscreens, even a couple of after market seats, and nothing we've been able to do allows me to get as comfortable as I can get on my RT! The 'sit on my tailbone' position with my feet forward might be OK in front of the TV at home, but once I'm forced into that position on a Spyder out on the roads so that I can't take any of my weight on my feet nor make it easy to shift it around, it rapidly becomes uncomfortable; then when that's added to the 'sit up like a dog leaning on the windscreen position' that your hands pretty much HAVE to rest in when the steering head is up & forwards from the seat like it is, basically forcing you to hold your arms & hands up like the front paws on a dog begging for treats, it only takes a few miles before things start to become excruciatingly painful! Punting an F3 around a smallish town might be fun for a shortish time, but I really don't fit one well enough to want to spend a couple of thousand miles on it - something the Missus & I do fairly often on the RT; but then when you throw in that inherently lazy motor too, it makes that even less appealing than it should be to ME!

    So JR, you might be able to tell from the above that not everyone absolutely loves the F3 &/or the 1330, but I guess that's why BRP still offer the RT AND the F3! I hope what I've outlined can help you concentrate on the things that make you really enjoy your 2010 RT, and with any luck, doing that & getting some F3 saddle time will allow you to decide if an F3 in one form or another is going to lend itself to your ryding enjoyment! Me, I'm sticking with my 2013 RT V-twin for a while yet....(& do check out the info on an Aussie ECU upgrade that I'll be putting out soon!) but I will go so far as admitting that something that can stick a cattle prod up that 1330's bum, like a turbo or a supercharger, might just help me think of ways & reasons to overcome the 'other' shortfalls that I see with the current crop of 1330 powered Spyders! For now, I've got mine & it suits me, especially since the (still under test) upgrades we've made, it's up to you to go out & get yours... And really, your decision really hasta be all about YOU & YOUR wants/needs from YOUR Spyder - but please, don't let go of the excitement just cos everyone else is raving about the torque or range or whatever!
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  12. #12
    Very Active Member safecracker's Avatar
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    As everyone above has stated, you need to ride each. I just want to say I also like the looks of the front end of a pre 2014 and I love the 998 engine. Only downside in my opinion is gas mileage. Bruce
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    Thanks a lot guys, your responses are great and has helped us to really know what to look for. I really like the 998 but we love to just poke around on back country roads and enjoy the scenery, and I think the 1330 is better suited for that. The 998 really wants to be revved. And the missus loves the comfort on the RT so i'm sure that's what we will be going with.

    We will test ride the newer RT and the F3 just to compare the 2. But I think she already has decided for me, even the color.....
    2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series

  14. #14
    Very Active Member Pirate looks at --'s Avatar
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    Just remember........if your passenger isn't happy......there is no way you will be!
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    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    We went from a 2012 RTL to a 2016 F3L. After a cross country trip of 7,300 miles the rider comfort is much improved on the F3L. Not sure about the passenger comfort because my wife and I ride our own bikes.
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  16. #16
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    To jroberts... as most have already said, YOU need to make this decision for YOURSELF, and your PASSENGER needs to be a VERY BIG PART OF IT. In fact, give the deciding vote to your passenger if you can't totally agree between you. BUT, base it on your combined comfort, not what others feel.

    IMPORTANT POINT: Be totally fair in your comparison of the two different bikes. I see a lot of folks comparing F3's of earlier years to RT's. That's not really an equal comparison. The only fair one, IMHO, is to put a 2017 F3L up against an RTL. Then, you are choosing between roughly comparable features. A 2017 F3L is very different from a 2015 or 2016 F3L. For starters you get the added top case, but you also get the electronically adjusted air suspension as well as the smaller sprocket. So, your riding comfort is much greater on the latest F3L, and more in keeping with what the RTL offers. Other F3 versions don't present as equivalent a choice. As for space, the F3L top case is twice as large as the rear case on the RTL; it sort of balances out for the smaller frunk. The F3 side cases are a bit smaller than the RT.

    We were pretty sure we would be buying an RT, when we first set out to test. However, I just couldn't feel or get comfortable on it the way I did on the F3L. My wife also preferred the F3L ride and comfort to the RTL. So, our decision was easy; we bought us a 2017 F3L, and couldn't be happier. We're two-up 95% of the time, doing back-roads country touring from 2 to 6 hours, not cross-country. We're not out for speed, but occasionally travel quickly between points at up to 70-75 mph. The F3L does everything we want it to, and has the capability to do much more. It's very comfortable, aside from the stock driver seat which I will change; wife is fine with her seat.

    So, judge for yourself, suit yourself. First, define your 'purpose' in wanting a Spyder. Before you test ride, check out the features that each bike offers to ensure you are making the fairest possible comparison, and choosing as much as possible between 'equals'. As I say, if your standard on one side is an RTL, then I believe you can only properly test that against a 2017 F3L. Anything less and you are not being fair to yourself or to the bikes.
    Last edited by bushrat; 10-06-2017 at 07:41 PM.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushrat View Post
    To jroberts... as most have already said, YOU need to make this decision for YOURSELF, and your PASSENGER needs to be a VERY BIG PART OF IT. In fact, give the deciding vote to your passenger if you can't totally agree between you. BUT, base it on your combined comfort, not what others feel.

    IMPORTANT POINT: Be totally fair in your comparison of the two different bikes. I see a lot of folks comparing F3's of earlier years to RT's. That's not really an equal comparison. The only fair one, IMHO, is to put a 2017 F3L up against an RTL. Then, you are choosing between roughly comparable features. A 2017 F3L is very different from a 2015 or 2016 F3L. For starters you get the added top case, but you also get the electronically adjusted air suspension as well as the smaller sprocket. So, your riding comfort is much greater on the latest F3L, and more in keeping with what the RTL offers. Other F3 versions don't present as equivalent a choice. As for space, the F3L top case is twice as large as the rear case on the RTL; it sort of balances out for the smaller frunk. The F3 side cases are a bit smaller than the RT.

    We were sure we would be buying an RT. I just couldn't feel comfortable on it the way I did on the F3L. My wife preferred the F3L ride and comfort to the RTL. So, our decision was easy. We bought the 2017 F3L, and couldn't be happier. We're two-up 95% of the time, doing back-roads country touring of 2 to 6 hours, not cross-country. We're not out for speed, but occasionally travel quickly between points at up to 70-75 mph. The F3L does everything we want it to, and has the capability to do much more. It's very comfortable, aside from the stock driver seat which I will change.

    So, judge for yourself, suit yourself. First, define your 'purpose' in wanting a Spyder. Before you test ride, check out the features that each bike offers to ensure you are making the fairest possible comparison, and choosing as much as possible between 'equals'. As I say, if your standard on one side is an RTL, then I believe you can only properly test that against a 2017 F3L. Anything less and you are not being fair to yourself or to the bikes.
    Thanks for that insight, I never thought about those aspects between the different models. I will take my newfound knowledge and test ride both and make the best decision.
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  18. #18
    Very Active Member Fat Baxter's Avatar
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    IMO, there's one major factor between the two seating positions. On the RT's, when you come to something bumpy in the road, like a RR crossing, you can stand up on the pegs (or floorboards) and let your legs absorb some of the bumps, vice your ass. Off-road riders do this a lot. On the F3's, with your legs straight out in front, you can't stand on the pegs. You ass and spine must absorb some of the shock.

    What drove it home for me was when I was looking for a new BMW in 1999. I test-rode an R1100RT and liked that (although it's a slightly sporty, feet-under-the hips seating arrangement, vice the Spyder RT's feet-under-the-knees arrangement). Then I took a test ride on the R1100C, their "cruiser" that they had for a few years, with a feet-forward arrangement. I ran across a RR crossing and felt it in my ass! No way to stand on the pegs. It looked neat (like the F3) but for me -- no way!

    So, I think a lot depends on the quality of the roads where you usually ride.

    My advice if you ever get a cruiser-style machine: invest in a good seat!

  19. #19
    Very Active Member al0vely's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Baxter View Post
    IMO, there's one major factor between the two seating positions. On the RT's, when you come to something bumpy in the road, like a RR crossing, you can stand up on the pegs (or floorboards) and let your legs absorb some of the bumps, vice your ass. Off-road riders do this a lot. On the F3's, with your legs straight out in front, you can't stand on the pegs. You ass and spine must absorb some of the shock.

    What drove it home for me was when I was looking for a new BMW in 1999. I test-rode an R1100RT and liked that (although it's a slightly sporty, feet-under-the hips seating arrangement, vice the Spyder RT's feet-under-the-knees arrangement). Then I took a test ride on the R1100C, their "cruiser" that they had for a few years, with a feet-forward arrangement. I ran across a RR crossing and felt it in my ass! No way to stand on the pegs. It looked neat (like the F3) but for me -- no way!

    So, I think a lot depends on the quality of the roads where you usually ride.

    My advice if you ever get a cruiser-style machine: invest in a good seat!
    You can stand on the optionally installed 3rd peg or floorboards.
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  20. #20
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Baxter View Post
    IMO, there's one major factor between the two seating positions. On the RT's, when you come to something bumpy in the road, like a RR crossing, you can stand up on the pegs (or floorboards) and let your legs absorb some of the bumps, vice your ass. Off-road riders do this a lot. On the F3's, with your legs straight out in front, you can't stand on the pegs. You ass and spine must absorb some of the shock.
    Not being able to stand on the pegs when you hit a railway crossing or something bumpy in the road is a “MAJOR factor between the two seating positions”, Fat?

    You do realise that if you install a longer footboard on an F3, you can have your feet out in front of you, half way toward you, or directly under you in the blink of an eye (in case you see a rail crossing).......not that I have ever found that necessary ....

    I also don’t understand why you say you need to invest in a good seat if you buy a cruiser-style machine. Have a look on the Russell Daylong site and you will see a huge number of their seats replacing stock seats on tourers and other non cruiser styles.

    Sounds like a pretty blinkered view to me.

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  21. #21
    Very Active Member Fat Baxter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peteoz View Post
    Not being able to stand on the pegs when you hit a railway crossing or something bumpy in the road is a “MAJOR factor between the two seating positions”, Fat?

    You do realise that if you install a longer footboard on an F3, you can have your feet out in front of you, half way toward you, or directly under you in the blink of an eye (in case you see a rail crossing).......not that I have ever found that necessary ....

    I also don’t understand why you say you need to invest in a good seat if you buy a cruiser-style machine. Have a look on the Russell Daylong site and you will see a huge number of their seats replacing stock seats on tourers and other non cruiser styles.

    Sounds like a pretty blinkered view to me.

    Pete
    Not being able to stand *is* a major factor with me. YMMV, but that's how I see it. And you mention an aftermarket set of floorboards -- that kinda makes my point. You have to modify the as-delivered bike.

    I think being able to stand up readily on the pegs/floorboards is important, but maybe that's because I learned to ride horses using English saddles. You stand in the stirrups a bit when the horse gets busy. That likely colors my perspective, and in a free country I'm entitled to my opinion. And the original poster was asking why one might prefer the RT over the F3 ("I love the styling but the main issue is with the comfort compared to the RT's."). So I gave him my perspective.

    As for not understanding why I say you need to invest in a good seat if you buy a cruiser, that's a bit of snark. You *are* familiar with the concept of sarcastic humor, no? I can't help it if you take everything literally.

    And FWIW, I am considering an aftermarket seat for my RT, but that's largely based on my sense that the foam is packing down a bit with use over time.

  22. #22
    Very Active Member Peteoz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fat Baxter View Post
    Not being able to stand *is* a major factor with me. YMMV, but that's how I see it. And you mention an aftermarket set of floorboards -- that kinda makes my point. You have to modify the as-delivered bike.

    I think being able to stand up readily on the pegs/floorboards is important, but maybe that's because I learned to ride horses using English saddles. You stand in the stirrups a bit when the horse gets busy. That likely colors my perspective, and in a free country I'm entitled to my opinion. And the original poster was asking why one might prefer the RT over the F3 ("I love the styling but the main issue is with the comfort compared to the RT's."). So I gave him my perspective.

    As for not understanding why I say you need to invest in a good seat if you buy a cruiser, that's a bit of snark. You *are* familiar with the concept of sarcastic humor, no? I can't help it if you take everything literally.

    And FWIW, I am considering an aftermarket seat for my RT, but that's largely based on my sense that the foam is packing down a bit with use over time.
    No, aftermarket floorboards do not “make your point”, Fat. You do not have to alter the as-delivered F3 if standing for rail crossings is one of your major concerns. You simply have the stock boards positioned where you can stand on them. The mention of the aftermarket boards was to show that you can have the best of both worlds. The same as many people adding highway pegs to their RT provides them with the best of both worlds.

    I’m not quite sure how me offering an alternative point of view to your opinion is in any way interfering with you offering your opinion. It’s simply providing more input for consideration.

    Written sarcastic humour is great, but it is usually suffixed by an indication of emotion so that the reader can tell which part of the essay is serious and which part is sarcastic, since there is no face to face indication available......that must be why I missed it 😉

    Pete
    Harrington, Australia

    2021 RT Limited
    Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.

    HeliBars Handlebars
    Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
    Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
    Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
    Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
    Kenda Kanine rear.
    2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red

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