When I bought my '15 F3S, I thought long and hard about "settling" and going with the semi-automatic (a real downer for me.) The reason I did this is the extreme (compared to every 2-wheeler I've ever had) difficulty of pulling the shift level. It is just plain work and not worth the effort, even though the MT experience is SOOOO much more fun and makes you feel so much more a part of the vehicle. Oh well.....
So, I'm driving a semi-automatic but wishing BRP had made the MT even a bit easier to shift.
F3S Steel Black Metallic Former owner of '12 RT-S SE-5 and '09 GS SM5
They don't shift "on their own". If you don't upshift it: you'll stay in whatever gear you're in!
(But they WILL downshift, if they get the sense that the rpms are dropping too low...)
How are automatic downshifts not shifting "on their own?" That's exactly what bugs me. The transmission should either handle it all automatically, or let me handle gear changes. Don't make me select a gear and then veto my decision because I roll off the throttle.
2013 RS-S SM5 [His] • 2021 RT Base [Hers] • 1977 Bultaco custom roadster • 1974 Harley-Davidson/Aermacchi 350 SS
How are automatic downshifts not shifting "on their own?" That's exactly what bugs me. The transmission should either handle it all automatically, or let me handle gear changes. Don't make me select a gear and then veto my decision because I roll off the throttle.
The SE does not 'veto your decision when you roll off the throttle' It ONLY down shifts automatically when the rpms reach engine minimum, somewhere under 2k rpm.
How are automatic downshifts not shifting "on their own?" That's exactly what bugs me. The transmission should either handle it all automatically, or let me handle gear changes. Don't make me select a gear and then veto my decision because I roll off the throttle.
Are you saying you WANT to be able to make the engine lug and struggle to maintain speed when the RPM drops below the minimum design RPM for it to run smoothly and efficiently? The auto down shift is intended to prevent that, plus make sure you are always in 1st gear, not 6th, when you come to a stop. At speeds above the clutch engagement speed the engine RPM is controlled by the bike speed. Just because you roll off the throttle the bike does not downshift until the bike speed causes the engine speed to drop below the design minimum. If you want to manually downshift at a higher RPM you can.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Are you saying you WANT to be able to make the engine lug and struggle to maintain speed when the RPM drops below the minimum design RPM for it to run smoothly and efficiently? The auto down shift is intended to prevent that, plus make sure you are always in 1st gear, not 6th, when you come to a stop. At speeds above the clutch engagement speed the engine RPM is controlled by the bike speed. Just because you roll off the throttle the bike does not downshift until the bike speed causes the engine speed to drop below the design minimum. If you want to manually downshift at a higher RPM you can.
Of course I don't want to lug the engine. I do get what you're saying—sort of—but I manage to NOT lug the engine with a manual transmission just fine. Why is having a computer make a jerky downshift better than me just pulling in the clutch? At the other extreme, if it's smart enough to downshift on its own, why do I have to manually up-shift? Why not just make it fully automatic? I guess I just can't get my head around why the SE should behave the way it does. It seems like a solution in search of its own problems.
2013 RS-S SM5 [His] • 2021 RT Base [Hers] • 1977 Bultaco custom roadster • 1974 Harley-Davidson/Aermacchi 350 SS
Of course I don't want to lug the engine. I do get what you're saying—sort of—but I manage to NOT lug the engine with a manual transmission just fine. Why is having a computer make a jerky downshift better than me just pulling in the clutch? At the other extreme, if it's smart enough to downshift on its own, why do I have to manually up-shift? Why not just make it fully automatic? I guess I just can't get my head around why the SE should behave the way it does. It seems like a solution in search of its own problems.
I understand exactly where you are coming from. My first spyder was a 2014 RT SM6, and I loved it. My thoughts were, why pay more for something else that can break. Well, my next bike was a 2012 RSS SE5. It took some getting used to, but it started to grow on me. Then when I had trouble with the shifting and had to pay nearly $800 to get it fixed, I wanted nothing to do with another SE.
Skip ahead 6 months and I decided to sell the RT, and trade in the RSS for a F3T. I chose a SE6 model for a couple of reasons:
1- Resale would be higher.
2- It was new and under warranty (probably will continue to be as long as I own it).
3- I was able to get it at a price that was the same as the SM6 model.
After driving my F3T SE6 for 5 months, I am a believer.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
Of course I don't want to lug the engine. I do get what you're saying—sort of—but I manage to NOT lug the engine with a manual transmission just fine. Why is having a computer make a jerky downshift better than me just pulling in the clutch? At the other extreme, if it's smart enough to downshift on its own, why do I have to manually up-shift? Why not just make it fully automatic? I guess I just can't get my head around why the SE should behave the way it does. It seems like a solution in search of its own problems.
I almost never experience any jerkiness with the auto shift while slowing down. Auto shifting down but not up makes sense. There are firm limits to the combined engine and road speed at the bottom end. There isn't at the top end. Manual up shifting gives you the freedom to choose what RPM, above the minimum, you want to shift all the way to red line. You also have the freedom to down shift at whatever RPM you want above the minimum, and many riders do to use compression to slow down. I manually downshift mostly while going downhill to hold my speed back at the speed limit.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Count me as a manual guy. Thought I'd have enough to 'learn' going from two wheels to three so figured the manual was one thing I wouldn't have to learn. In reality I acclimated much quicker than many have said it normally takes, so guess I could have gone with the SE.
On the other hand read a lot about the SE having shifting issues, clutch issues, stuck in gear issues and even emergency brake issues (which you HAVE to set with an SE, (so you are using it a lot more) you do not HAVE to on the SM (but should have you are on any kind of incline). So there is that.
Yet have to agree, resale value and resale pool of interested persons are both less.
It also depends on where you live I live at the only stoplight for 120 miles in 4 directions MT for me all the way if was riding in a city all the time SE. Resale should equal out less MT makes them rare and there are people that want them. Put an 04 dodge cummins 6 speed up for sale and they beat your door down to buy it
I almost never experience any jerkiness with the auto shift while slowing down. Auto shifting down but not up makes sense. There are firm limits to the combined engine and road speed at the bottom end. There isn't at the top end. Manual up shifting gives you the freedom to choose what RPM, above the minimum, you want to shift all the way to red line. You also have the freedom to down shift at whatever RPM you want above the minimum, and many riders do to use compression to slow down. I manually downshift mostly while going downhill to hold my speed back at the speed limit.
Well stated. I guess I simply haven't ridden an SE long enough to get used to it. I have no intention of giving up my RS-S SM5 anytime soon, so I guess it's all rather academic, really.
2013 RS-S SM5 [His] • 2021 RT Base [Hers] • 1977 Bultaco custom roadster • 1974 Harley-Davidson/Aermacchi 350 SS
Well stated. I guess I simply haven't ridden an SE long enough to get used to it.
Quite normal for anyone who hasn't used an electric shift previously. I found it easy to use because my Honda ATV has electric shift. The newer ATVs have auto shift up and down that works great. It can be turned off and on. My brother has one and really likes it. But ATV riding in the mountains ain't nowhere near what Spyder riding is on the highway!
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
I always see leftover SM6 RT's at the dealerships ,so I guess they looked at the numbers and it wasn't enough to keep them.
I have a RTS SM6 and I love it most of the time ,except when my Achilles tendon is acting up. I walk 9-12 miles a day at work and I should have bought a SE6 because I ride it nearly every day. The MT is better when I'm riding for fun.
2021 RTL Marsala Dark Edition 4.13.2021
Lamonster Riser
Spyder Extras Docking station
Zumo XT (my own Plug & Play cable)
WrapMySpyder Carbon fiber partial kit.
Baja Ron ultra performance sway bar and end links
2015 RTS SM6 Intense Red
born on date 3/2015 (mine on 9/12/15)
Sold on 4.13.2021 33k of fun.
Of course I don't want to lug the engine. I do get what you're saying—sort of—but I manage to NOT lug the engine with a manual transmission just fine. Why is having a computer make a jerky downshift better than me just pulling in the clutch? At the other extreme, if it's smart enough to downshift on its own, why do I have to manually up-shift? Why not just make it fully automatic? I guess I just can't get my head around why the SE should behave the way it does. It seems like a solution in search of its own problems.
I don't know about the others, but I control every shift on all of my rydes. Obviously I have to shift up, but, I do all of the downshifting a son well. On rare occasions I will allow the computer to drop into first gear as I come to a stop, but other than that I do it all. I don't have to mess with the clutch and the fun factor is still there!
White 2013 Spyder RT Limited. BajaRon Swaybar, Custom Dynamic Third Brake Light. Ultimate Custom Black and White seat with driver and passenger back rest. Gloryder Led Wheel lights.Custom Dynamics Led Bright sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright sides.
2016 F3 Limited Intense Red Pearl. Lidlox, BRP Driver Back Rest, BRP Passenger Back Rest,Fog Lights, GPS, Signature Light! Custom Dynamics LED Bright Sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright Sides.
How to drive a stick shift with written instructions.....
Seriously - - just read this and because it seems so ridiculous, it's actually true. It seems that FORD IS LEAVING A HANG TAG ON THE SHIFTER IN IT'S MANUAL TRANSMISSION FORD FIESTAS because so few people know how to drive a stick anymore. On the hang tag Ford has left these handy little tips:
* Before applying any gear, the clutch pedal must be fully pressed.
* Press the clutch completely to the floor to avoid unwanted noise during the shift.
* Pressing the clutch completely to the floor will also result in an improvement of the shift feel.
But my favorite has to be this one: BRING THE VEHICLE TO A COMPLETE STOP BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO SHIFT INTO REVERSE.
So if one ever wanted to make a compelling argument for the proliferation of automatic transmissions, I would think that just the fact that Ford feels it necessary to hang a tag WITH WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS AND AN ILLUSTRATION on it's gear shift just might do it. By the way, whatever happened to the days when your brother taught you to drive on a Saturday afternoon on a back road . . . .
He's on his RT She's on her F3
And the Keys to a Happy Marriage: Separate
Bathrooms, Individual Remote TV Clickers, and
His and Her Spyders.
"If there are no dogs in heaven, then when I die,
I want to go where they went." ~ ~ Will Rogers
"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few."
~ ~ Winston Churchill in his tribute to the RAF.
"I'd like to know why well-educated idiots keep apologizing for lazy and complaining
people who think the world owes them a living." ~ ~ John Wayne
But my favorite has to be this one: BRING THE VEHICLE TO A COMPLETE STOP BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO SHIFT INTO REVERSE...I would think that just the fact that Ford feels it necessary to hang a tag WITH WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
I don't think Ford 'feels' it is necessary. They've undoubtedly found that it IS necessary! As to stopping before putting it into reverse many people find it works just fine with an automatic to shift into reverse before coming to a complete stop. I do. If they have no experience with manual shifting why wouldn't they likely think the same about a standard transmission.
I think the tag is a good idea because of the absence of standard transmissions in the automobile world.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Really it is Fords Attorneys that feel it it necessary! Remember the contents of your coffee cup may be hot!
White 2013 Spyder RT Limited. BajaRon Swaybar, Custom Dynamic Third Brake Light. Ultimate Custom Black and White seat with driver and passenger back rest. Gloryder Led Wheel lights.Custom Dynamics Led Bright sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright sides.
2016 F3 Limited Intense Red Pearl. Lidlox, BRP Driver Back Rest, BRP Passenger Back Rest,Fog Lights, GPS, Signature Light! Custom Dynamics LED Bright Sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright Sides.