Rear wheel bearing

[Larry rt]

My bike is at dealer to replace rear wheel bearing on a 2013rt limited. They are telling me BRP does not stock them (even though their service bulletin says to change every 28,000 miles).
So they cannot give me a date of when part will be in. Does anyone know if this is true or is dealer blowing smoke up my , you know what.
I scheduled it three weeks out , so you would think they would of ordered them

[quasi]

NSK 6205 is the bearing #. very common bearing. no excuse for the shop not to have them on hand.

[Purple Guy]

I replaced all my bearings when I changed my tire, dealer had the 2 different bearings & seals in stock...
These are very common parts, if not in stock they should be able to get them in within 3 days.

[Bensonoid]

I just ordered rear wheel bearings on 9/10 from Elk Grove Power Sports thru BRP and received them yesterday 9/18. Your dealer probably didn't order them until they had yours apart and verified that they were bad.

[Firefly]

NSK 6205 is the bearing #. very common bearing. no excuse for the shop not to have them on hand.

True.. but the double row bearing isn't as common. You need 2 of the 6205 and one of the double row to do the job correctly.

Still should be able to get it from a dealer within 2-3 days. Mine has no problem getting them quickly.

[Chupaca]

They have to deal with BRP but you don't. Cheapcycleparts.com stocks oem parts and shipping is as fast as you want it. I always have a set on hand and they have much better prices...

[quasi]

True.. but the double row bearing isn't as common. You need 2 of the 6205 and one of the double row to do the job correctly.

Still should be able to get it from a dealer within 2-3 days. Mine has no problem getting them quickly.

yeah, I just changed mine a couple weeks ago. sourced mine off of amazon.

[quasi]

actually, the double row bearing in the hub is nothing special. it is a common a/c compressor clutch bearing . the part# is 30BD40DF2. should be on hand at about any parts store for about $20 bucks.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Both of the bearings and the all the seals are shown as available on the BRP parts page. Your dealer isn't blowing smoke up your rear. He's too lazy to do even that much!

[Larry rt]

Thanks for the input. Discovered this morning, bearings arrived yesterday. Looks like the parts guy did his job. But the service desk guy was smoking. The only issue I have now is they need to replace in his words parking brake motor, I told him it should be covered under warranty. They will let me know.

[Bob Denman]

If you've got the wheel off to change a tire: replace the bearings at the same time.
It is the handiest time to do it, and there's nothing wrong with being cautious with bearings!
(They never quit working at a convenient time anyway... )

[Firefly]

actually, the double row bearing in the hub is nothing special. it is a common a/c compressor clutch bearing . the part# is 30BD40DF2. should be on hand at about any parts store for about $20 bucks.

Right, but still not as common as the other. I also wouldn't trust just any brand from any parts place. If you use the one from BRP (around $22) then they can hardly place blame on you using a non-OEM bearing.

Years ago I looked into getting all these bearings for a better price than BRP.... and it was pretty much a wash as the BRP prices are not that bad.

[Buckeye Bleau]

Living in Canton, Ohio, I would have to insist on genuine Timken Bearings, there are none better. I know the company, I know their reputation and I know the people that make them.

Joe

[k7xi]

I have 21000 miles on my 2013 RT Ltd and just had --had-- to replace the bearings. The outer one on the right was only half there. Had a hell of a time getting that one out, finally took the whole hub to a local machine shop. Ended up calling 3 different spyder dealerships before I found a complete set of 3 bearings. (We can order all those for you, about 10 days or so....) I think for the price, I'll order a set to have on hand.

[gerald37]

I purchased a 2015 Can Am Spyder RT Roadster with 10,000 miles on it. It had had a tire replaced on it at about 7500 miles. I have put about 4,000 miles on it and plan to replace the rear tire with a Yokohama tire. When I first got it I checked the belt for alignment and found it seemed to me the tension was pretty tight. I did back it off a little. If it had been run with to much tension could that have any effect on the wheel bearings? When I do change the rear tire should the bearings be change with no more miles than it has?

I have found on cheapcycleparts.com three bearings 1 double Row #293350065, and 2- bearings #293350053, 2 Seals #293200094 and 1 O’ring #29330124. Is this all I would need to replace the bearing in the rear drive? And one other question is there any problem removing the bearings & seals to replace them. I usually but the bearings in a freezer over night before trying to press then in their holder.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

In over 40 years of playing with motorcycles I have never replaced a wheel bearing and several of my bikes had over 100,000 miles on them. I know the rear wheel on the Spyder takes a beating and the loads are different than a two wheeler, but after working with bearings in an industrial environment I also know there should be no need to worry about the rear bearings. Obviously one place Can Am chose to save a buck during production was wheel bearings. There are several quality "levels" of the same size bearing and motorcycle wheels use pretty much the lowest one. If I'm going to replace mine I will take them to a store where they sell industrial bearings and seals and get the highest quality item I can and probably still pay less than a dealer will charge for crap bearings. It doesn't matter whose name is on the bearing as all manufacturers make different precision levels of bearings. 99% of bearing failures begin at installation. A hammer, punch, and a wooden block are not proper tools for bearing installation. Motorcycle wheels actually turn very low RPM's and if our Spyders need new bearings at every tire change that to me is a design flaw.

, When you find the size ... please come back and post the brand & part # ........... Thanks from all of us ..... Mike