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Its Back!!!! Throttle body code
Went to fire up the spyder this morning for a ride to work and as soon as the key was turned I knew there was going to be problems. The engine and gas light were flashing together, fired it up and limp home came on. Checked the codes, P2620 and P1120.
Had it replaced in 2015 and have only put maybe 4,000 miles on it. I really hope I don't have to pay for this crap again. How many does it take before I won't have this problem?
2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Since the bike doesn't get ridden a lot: perhaps the throttle bodies just need a real good cleaning.
Check with your dealer; good luck!
Dealer is closed today but I'm going to check a few things when I get home. It's done it a few times since the replacement. But after it sat about 5 minutes it started up and ran ok. Not sure why they have those little quirks. I'll check the connections and try to clear the codes and see what happens.
2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series
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My 2010 was due for it's third set of throttle bodies; when I traded it in...
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2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Sorry...
The earliest of the "throttle by wire" bikes just seem to be plagued with this issue.
By the time they got to the 2013 model year: it had pretty much been resolved.
I mean what is the main issue? What was changed when the 2013's came out?
2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series
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Active Member
Hopefully I get my bike back tomorrow from my second throttle body replacement. The last one was last year July (circa 13K miles on the last replacement). The dealer says they are in revision 4 on the throttle body's.
Michael
W5MWI
USN Vet - RM1
Member: VFW & American Legion
2020 Spyder RT-L - Jupiter Metallic Blue Chrome
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Originally Posted by Bandera
Hopefully I get my bike back tomorrow from my second throttle body replacement. The last one was last year July (circa 13K miles on the last replacement). The dealer says they are in revision 4 on the throttle body's.
Michael
Did you have to pay to have this 2nd one installed? Would this new one be the latest revision of the throttle body?
2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series
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Very Active Member
Newest part number
The latest Throttle Body part number is 420686292. Do you know what the part numbers for your previous units were? I don't know exactly what the differences are.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
US Navy Veteran
SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
CNC Machine Service Technician
President: Rolling Thunder SC1
Member: Disabled American Veterans, Rock Hill, SC
Member: American Legion
Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!
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Originally Posted by Grandpot
The latest Throttle Body part number is 420686292. Do you know what the part numbers for your previous units were? I don't know exactly what the differences are.
No I don't have that information anymore. It was back in 2015 so I'm not too sure if they have revised since then or not. I know one thing, this is getting old. I really don't want to start over paying for a newer one but if i have to, to keep my sanity, I will.
2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series
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Very Active Member
I got the throttle body code one time on my 2013 RT. When I stopped at the next dealer I came to he checked things out. One of the repair instructions is clean the throttle body. Apparently gas leaves a coating in the throat that causes the butterfly valve to get stuck. After I got home the local dealer ran some Yamaha brand fuel injector/carburetor cleaner through it. The tech said they found the Yamaha cleaner to work really good for such things.
Try running some injector cleaner for a couple of tankfuls and see if that helps. For some reason I'm thinking the change from '10 to '13 involved a stronger solenoid to operate the butterfly valve. Even though the fuel ports are below the valve apparently there is enough vapor or spray thrown around that it helps.
Last edited by IdahoMtnSpyder; 09-18-2017 at 01:32 PM.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
I got the throttle body code one time on my 2013 RT. When I stopped at the next dealer I came to he checked things out. One of the repair instructions is clean the throttle body. Apparently gas leaves a coating in the throat that causes the butterfly valve to get stuck. After I got home the local dealer ran some Yamaha brand fuel injector/carburetor cleaner through it. The tech said they found the Yamaha cleaner to work really good for such things.
Try running some injector cleaner for a couple of tankfuls and see if that helps. For some reason I'm thinking the change from '10 to '13 involved a stronger solenoid to operate the butterfly valve. Even though the fuel ports are below the valve apparently there is enough vapor or spray thrown around that it helps.
You don't understand, when these codes pop up it puts the machine in limp home mode. And when it's like that it either shuts off immediately shuts down or it will idle really rough for a few seconds and shut off. There is no running a few tanks through it with fuel cleaner. I run the highest octane available anyway, which is 93. And I use marine sta-bil every other tankful. So I don't think it's the fuel, it's the machine itself, either the throttlebody, TPS or one of the connectors for these parts.
2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series
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Active Member
Originally Posted by jroberts650
Did you have to pay to have this 2nd one installed? Would this new one be the latest revision of the throttle body?
I was at the Deadwood 3 wheeler rally last year and had it replaced up there, just under $1200. And no, this one I am paying for also at the local dealer circa $1350.
The original Throttle body lasted 25k miles and the first replacement last year circa 13k. Lets see how long this second replacement lasts.
Michael
W5MWI
USN Vet - RM1
Member: VFW & American Legion
2020 Spyder RT-L - Jupiter Metallic Blue Chrome
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Active Member
Originally Posted by jroberts650
Did you have to pay to have this 2nd one installed? Would this new one be the latest revision of the throttle body?
The throttle body part number for last years replacement was 420686292. Will have to wait for my bike to get back to see what part number they put on my bike this time.
Michael
W5MWI
USN Vet - RM1
Member: VFW & American Legion
2020 Spyder RT-L - Jupiter Metallic Blue Chrome
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Originally Posted by Bandera
I was at the Deadwood 3 wheeler rally last year and had it replaced up there, just under $1200. And no, this one I am paying for also at the local dealer circa $1350.
The original Throttle body lasted 25k miles and the first replacement last year circa 13k. Lets see how long this second replacement lasts.
Michael
I think that's ridiculous that you have to pay for the replacement when they know it's been a problem for so long. They covered the part on mine but I had to foot the labor. Which I didn't agree with but seeing it was the first time plus it was out of warranty, I sucked it up and paid. But if the replacements are defective, they should cover everything. To me that would be a good customer service move to keep a small customer base happy.
2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bandera
The throttle body part number for last years replacement was 420686292. Will have to wait for my bike to get back to see what part number they put on my bike this time.
That's the current part # being shown for 2010 to 2012. The newest part # is 420686290 and 420686291 for the 998 engine in the 2013 RT and 2015 RSS. Is the 2010 RT engine the 990 or 998? If it's the 990 then then the -292 part is probably it.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by jroberts650
You don't understand, when these codes pop up it puts the machine in limp home mode. And when it's like that it either shuts off immediately shuts down or it will idle really rough for a few seconds and shut off. There is no running a few tanks through it with fuel cleaner.
You're right. Now I remember when it happened to me my 2013 RT went into limp mode. Initially it wouldn't drop down to idle speed and I had trouble getting it into gear. I drove a few thousand feet and stopped to check the oil. I thought maybe it was low and was causing the shifting problem. When I restarted the limp home mode cleared and I was able to drive something like a hundred miles to the dealer. I never did get the TB code again. That's why I'm thinking you might be able to remedy the problem with fuel cleaner.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
spray - or - tank full
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
I got the throttle body code one time on my 2013 RT. When I stopped at the next dealer I came to he checked things out. One of the repair instructions is clean the throttle body. Apparently gas leaves a coating in the throat that causes the butterfly valve to get stuck. After I got home the local dealer ran some Yamaha brand fuel injector/carburetor cleaner through it. The tech said they found the Yamaha cleaner to work really good for such things.
Try running some injector cleaner for a couple of tankfuls and see if that helps. For some reason I'm thinking the change from '10 to '13 involved a stronger solenoid to operate the butterfly valve. Even though the fuel ports are below the valve apparently there is enough vapor or spray thrown around that it helps.
the Yamaha hualer carb cleaner , I wonder if they sprayed the carb injector area liberally cover the moving parts and cleaned then that way , or ran a container full through the gas tank ? { the service tech guy that is }
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Well I have a little good news, even though it's a little odd. I pulled the panels and started the bike, wiggled the wires and connections going to the throttle body and the idle evened out. I shut off the bike and also removed an aux cable that i use for my xm radio, it was routed above the throttle body, and when I restarted the idle was fine. The engine light flashed for a few seconds and then went off. The codes still displayed when I checked but no limp home and no engine light.
I also restarted and let it idle, revved it a few times and everything was back to normal. Maybe the aux cable? Maybe the connectors? I'll dig into it a little more as I have time this week. Maybe unplug the connectors, clean them and use some electrical grease.
2010 RT Audio and Convience SE5, wider vented windshield, XM radio, digital voltmeter, K&N filter, LED turn signal strips, ISCI floorboards, Lamonster LED Headlights and Fogs, Two Bros Black series
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Hello @jroberts650.
Just curious how this saga turned out for you.
I also have a 2010 I picked up last October. She was barely used with only 2700 miles on it. I put another 5300 on her this year and she's now in the shop for a new throttle body. Been researching this issue on this forum and am pretty sour'd on the Spyder after reading about how BRP isn't taking care of business by replacing a poorly made part with yet another poorly made part.
Since this post is 2 years old, I'd love to know how your ryde is faring.
I'm fairly surprised no one has ever organized a class action suit regarding this. It seems like it should have been an all-out recall but never reached that status either. I may just pursue this myself and will likely be polling this forum for interested potential class members.
TIA,
David
Originally Posted by jroberts650
Well I have a little good news, even though it's a little odd. I pulled the panels and started the bike, wiggled the wires and connections going to the throttle body and the idle evened out. I shut off the bike and also removed an aux cable that i use for my xm radio, it was routed above the throttle body, and when I restarted the idle was fine. The engine light flashed for a few seconds and then went off. The codes still displayed when I checked but no limp home and no engine light.
I also restarted and let it idle, revved it a few times and everything was back to normal. Maybe the aux cable? Maybe the connectors? I'll dig into it a little more as I have time this week. Maybe unplug the connectors, clean them and use some electrical grease.
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Very Active Member
There a few things that need to be looked at before replacing the Throttle Body.
1. There is a service bulletin that has you clean the Butterfly Shaft pivot points. I've never had one stick, but I do it as a regular maintenance.
2. If you have a code stating the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) needs to be replaced, you can do it without replacing the entire Throttle Body. It is very simple to do and costs around $80. You will need a BUDS system to sync it in.
3. Wiring from the TPS to the ECU is direct. There are no additional splices or terminals. Your most likely culprit is the connection at the TPS. That's most likely why jroberts650's unit started working again after shaking some wires. Next time you get a failure, remove and then insert the connector at the TPS without touching anything else. If it works, you found the problem. DO NOT put any Electrical Grease on those connections. This is a very sensitive 5 volt signal. Silicon grease will mess it up. Silicon grease works great on 12V lighting circuits, but not well on a 5V analog device.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
US Navy Veteran
SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
CNC Machine Service Technician
President: Rolling Thunder SC1
Member: Disabled American Veterans, Rock Hill, SC
Member: American Legion
Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!
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Very Active Member
Along with doing what Grandpot suggests you should also replace the MAP vacuum tubes with silicon tubes. The factory ones are prone to breaking down from heat and age. I got mine from NAPA.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
In the past, the owner of this website frowned on class action lawsuit discussions in the posts / topics, so any plans you might have may to discuss this with others here may be swept away in short time.
Accomplish the proper maintenance steps, then if the BRP recommended steps cure your issue realize you have a maintenance problem, or possibly a dealer problem. If the throttle body has truly been installed with known defects that warrants additional concerns. My opinion is you are seeing a owner maintenance / dealer issue, and once correctly diagnosed and maintained you should be reliably riding again, provided you correctly maintain the vehicle.
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