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  1. #1
    Active Member Rohaianan's Avatar
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    Default Ideas for running without RT compresser and bag

    I read a lot about all the compresser and bag issues people are having. I don't want to go into the how's and why's. Is there anyone that has replaced the compresser and bag setup with anything else? If it is not used will it affect anything else? How about the set up in the base RT?

    i want to really believe that the Spyder products are reliable, and my 15 RT has been, but they are overly complicated and it seems the fixes by the company don't seem in many cases to fix the underlying problem. They seem to replace many items multiple times until they get a part that works.

    let's keep it civil, I'm not bashing the Spyder. I love mine.

  2. #2
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    Default My story & fix

    When my 2014 RTS compressor failed I could not ride double...The rear tire would rub inside the fender...When I manually air up the air bag with the valve under the seat the air would stay in overnight but as soon as I would start down the road it would unload the air from the bag and the tire would rub...I had to disconnect the dump valve wire for the air to stay in allowing me to ride double for two weeks until the dealer could replace the compressor...I now put a quick disconnect under the seat that goes to the dump valve...That way if I have a compressor failure on the road riding double and pulling a trailer I can just unplug the wire and manually air up the bag with my portable compressor...larryd

  3. #3
    Very Active Member eddieshep999's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rohaianan View Post
    I read a lot about all the compresser and bag issues people are having. I don't want to go into the how's and why's. Is there anyone that has replaced the compresser and bag setup with anything else? If it is not used will it affect anything else? How about the set up in the base RT?

    i want to really believe that the Spyder products are reliable, and my 15 RT has been, but they are overly complicated and it seems the fixes by the company don't seem in many cases to fix the underlying problem. They seem to replace many items multiple times until they get a part that works.

    let's keep it civil, I'm not bashing the Spyder. I love mine.
    Although I never had a problem with my compressor and bag on my 2010 RTS SE5
    When I upgraded to the RT SE6 (2015) I decided to go with the base model as I didn't think it was worth the extra expense of having the Compressor and some other items included
    It ment less items to maintain and replace should they fail
    I use the manual valve under the seat to adjust the air in the bag and so far I have had no issues with the loss of pressure and find once I have set it I don't change it
    I suppose should the compressor fail you could just leave it off and revert back to manual operation if this can be done
    Eddie Sheppard
    Poole Dorset UK

    Get a Spyder - See the World


  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddieshep999 View Post
    Although I never had a problem with my compressor and bag on my 2010 RTS SE5
    When I upgraded to the RT SE6 (2015) I decided to go with the base model as I didn't think it was worth the extra expense of having the Compressor and some other items included
    It ment less items to maintain and replace should they fail
    I use the manual valve under the seat to adjust the air in the bag and so far I have had no issues with the loss of pressure and find once I have set it I don't change it
    I suppose should the compressor fail you could just leave it off and revert back to manual operation if this can be done
    There was a post sometime ago with someone with a RTS or RTL that did some line changes at the failed compressor with a fitting or two that allowed them to manually air up the bag without the automatic discharge...Though, getting access to the compressor is a task in it self...larryd

  5. #5
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    That might have been Doc Humphreys...
    You could PM him, and ask...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  6. #6
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    Default I have a 14 RTS also with airbag problems.....

    Quote Originally Posted by larryd View Post
    When my 2014 RTS compressor failed I could not ride double...The rear tire would rub inside the fender...When I manually air up the air bag with the valve under the seat the air would stay in overnight but as soon as I would start down the road it would unload the air from the bag and the tire would rub...I had to disconnect the dump valve wire for the air to stay in allowing me to ride double for two weeks until the dealer could replace the compressor...I now put a quick disconnect under the seat that goes to the dump valve...That way if I have a compressor failure on the road riding double and pulling a trailer I can just unplug the wire and manually air up the bag with my portable compressor...larryd
    Can you tell me where that dump valve is located, and what it looks like so I can disconnect it when and if I need to? I'm having compressor/airbag issues and at some point I'm sure I'll find myself in your situation. Thanks......

  7. #7
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    I didn't care about any compressor.
    2012 Spyder RT SE5 Brake pedal mod

  8. #8
    Active Member Dmetcalf's Avatar
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    Default I'll be monitoring this post. I would like to know this as well

    It would be good to know how to bypass the dump valve if I had a compressor failure on the road ..!
    2016 RT-Ltd
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    with American and Texas flags
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    had my exhaust installed @ Spyder in the hills.

  9. #9
    Active Member Rohaianan's Avatar
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    Default Thanks for the responses.

    Well I guess if the compresser goes or the bag goes while on a trip it won't be an easy fix since it's not just a shock back there.

  10. #10
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    Default Compressor

    Quote Originally Posted by larryd View Post
    When my 2014 RTS compressor failed I could not ride double...The rear tire would rub inside the fender...When I manually air up the air bag with the valve under the seat the air would stay in overnight but as soon as I would start down the road it would unload the air from the bag and the tire would rub...I had to disconnect the dump valve wire for the air to stay in allowing me to ride double for two weeks until the dealer could replace the compressor...I now put a quick disconnect under the seat that goes to the dump valve...That way if I have a compressor failure on the road riding double and pulling a trailer I can just unplug the wire and manually air up the bag with my portable compressor...larryd
    Hello larryd,

    Not sure if the 14 uses the same pump but you might want to check this idea out first.

    I have a 12 RT and the rear suspension stopped responding to the automatic leveling changes. The air bag lost the air, went flat and stayed there. I couldn't hear if the compressor was running over the bike noise by using the switch. What I did to verify that the compressor was at fault instead of something else was to hot wire the compressor motor first.
    The motor was running but there was no air being pushed out. The compressor has a cover that can be removed so I took it off. I found that the piston rod fell of the motor shaft. Put the shaft back on the motor, tightened the hell of the set screw and it's been working perfect ever since.

    Time and ingenuity might be all that is necessary for a free fix. Have at it.

    Clete

  11. #11
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Yes, it is possible to remove the air bladder and compressor completely. Elka makes an adjustable coil over shock that will work independently without the assistance of the air spring.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
    2015 F3S , Blue Flame

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Since I have tore into the air bag and compressor I can tell you that replacing it with a different style shock system would be very hard to do. The area where the bag fits is so small and the swing arm moves so close in there that an air bag is really the only thing that will work in there. Some people have upgraded the shock system so that it will be stronger and negate much of what the air bag does. Some problems with that is that if it set for 2 up it might be too stiff for single ryding or vice versa.
    We make a inexpensive alternative called a spring stiffener. It locks in between the coils and helps the spring to be stronger. It allows the airbag to not need to be set quite so firm and keeps some of the weight off of it. If the bag fails, it will also allow you to ryde the byke without bottoming out. (for being away from home this works well in case of an AB or compressor failure)
    It seems that a lot of OEM compressors go bad and rocks can collect around the base of the airbag on the swingarm and rub a hole in the airbag. That is what happened to our RT in early 2015. I had the dealer diagnose and replace the compressor under warranty and they missed the airbag leak (which happens a lot it seems). The new compressor lasted about 3 weeks and then quit. I then was told by the dealer that it would be 6 weeks minimum for the repair. I then decided to tackle it myself and did. I replaced the compressor with a $75 Viair 98C, which is an almost perfect match. I then used 4 oz of green slime poured into the top of the airbag (the hole was in the bottom) and then found and developed a tough rubber cup we call "Air Ryde Rock Armour" to fit on the bottom of the airbag between it and the swingarm to keep the rocks away. After putting everything back together it worked perfectly.
    That was in March 2015 and that has been 2 1/2 seasons' ago and 36,000 miles and the Viair and air bag are still working perfectly.
    We offer both the ARRA and spring stiffeners for sale on our website. Here is a link to some of the install videos.
    http://dochumphreys.wixsite.com/roadster/install

  13. #13
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    Default There are two #76 in picture below???...It is the lower one with the two wire plug...


  14. #14
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    Default Disconnect for dump valve

    Quote Originally Posted by Dmetcalf View Post
    It would be good to know how to bypass the dump valve if I had a compressor failure on the road ..!
    The dump valve is pictured in my previous post...The dump valve is on the right side of the bike under the center painted panel...It has two wires/one is ground...I cut the ground wire and put a quick disconnect under the seat...This disconnect is spliced inline using the ground wire...This can be done in less the 1/2 hour...Or you could remove the panel and unplug the dump valve if needed...larryd

  15. #15
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    Default Here is the post where I got the info from

    8-05-2016, 11:22 AM
    larryd

    Active Member Join Date Mar 2008 Location Hesston, PA Posts 304




    Originally Posted by Frank G
    Without looking at the actual setup, under the right side panel back by the compressor is the manifold that includes the solenoid valve that dumps the air. You should be able to unplug it, disabling the valve from dumping air. This is where you would disconnect the air line going to the air balder and connect it to the schrader valve to create a manual system.




    UPDATE!!! I unpluged the ACS solenoid valve and the air I put in the air bag manually STAYS in...I can now ride with my passenger until my air compressor is replaced on 8/10...

    Everyone may want to make a note of this temp. fix...I was able to unplug the solenoid on my lift, without a lift you would need to remove the right center panel...

    THANK YOU to everyone for you input...larryd






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