BRP Care - Axle Torque Confirmation Please

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I just had my Tire replaced on Wednesday and asked the Tech who is well respected if he Uses the 166 He looked at me and said he torques them all at 140.

Maybe that's all the stronger his arm is!

[Peteoz]

I just had my Tire replaced on Wednesday and asked the Tech who is well respected if he Uses the 166 He looked at me and said he torques them all at 140.

Yeah, 140 isn’t too hard to achieve, AY. I torqued mine to BRP’s lower limit, which is around 150. That still required some strength. Did you ask him why he only went to 140? It would be interesting to know if was simply because of something simple like that’s as high as his torque wrench goes, or if it’s for a technical reason. It certainly shows that techs disregard BRP guidelines when they feel like it

Pete

[AY4B]

Yeah, 140 isn’t too hard to achieve, AY. I torqued mine to BRP’s lower limit, which is around 150. That still required some strength. Did you ask him why he only went to 140? It would be interesting to know if was simply because of something simple like that’s as high as his torque wrench goes, or if it’s for a technical reason. It certainly shows that techs disregard BRP guidelines when they feel like it

Pete

I did not ask him why, Just made mental note. He has all the tools to set it at whatever torque he wants to, and watching him work, he knows his ****. This is one of the few places that will install a car tire. I rode the extra distance with my Yokohama S drive strapped to the back of my spyder. He also gives the members of East Texas Spyder Ryders a 15% discount on all parts and labor. On top of that they provide a place for us to have quarterly meetings with free coffee and donuts. If anyone asks us where to take their Spyder for service we always point to them. They are Awesome. Who do you know that will hook up the BUDS computer to check out the system on a rear tire change, apply locktite and torque every bolt and double check the whole bike? His name is Chad and he is a credit to the Spyder community. If he says 140 PSI, he has good reason.
I own a torque wrench that will achieve 166 with little problem, It is about 2 foot long and what I use at home. Chad has tools that put mine to shame.

[AY4B]

Chad has an amazing way to install the wheel. He slips on the belt before he puts the axle, lowers the jack to the right height and holds the tire in place with his two feet while installing the axle with the belt on. It looks like a Yoga move. Also I never saw him removing the shock bolt.

[Madison Sully]

Here is the response direct from the "horses mouth" Winggirl. The problem is, does "since 2013" mean from the start of 2013, or end of 2013? I'll see if they can clarify......and yes, it appears there are a number of techs out there still torquing 2014/15/16/17s to the old 96ft/lbs figure, which is a worry......either they missed to BRP update or the didn't get one.

Hi Peter!

Since 2013, the torque spec for the rear axle nut has been increased to 166 lbs/ft on all models. So this is the value we should be using.

Pete

Interesting. Due to inclusion of the phrase "on all models" I would interpret this to mean:
At some point in the year 2013,
BRP decided to change the torque spec for the rear axle nut,
to 166 ft*lbs,
On all Can-Am Spyders of any year.

If it was just due to the new motor, it would be simple to say "Higher torque on rear tires with the new motor." Boom, end, clear, answered.

So question from me, being a new guy. Is there a design change in the axle/axle nut area since 2010? Same part numbers? If yes, then at least it should be considered mechanically safe to apply the higher torque to the older models, no?

[KX5062]

The only reason I see that makes sense to me is the lawyers made me do it thing. Ya' know the big "L" (liability).

Mechanically it makes no sense to me. The swing arms are just thin walled boxed sheet steel. The axle adjusters are cast pot metal. The axle is hollow with drawn not cut threads. Bearings are bearings. The only difference being a car type tire on the back, which would have additional forces applied due to the large contact patch. Otherwise, it's not much different than a belt drive Harley and arguably their design would allow for greater torque ratings, and they only torque to 95-105 lb ft.

Mind you, I'm not arguing with BRP, I'm just wondering aloud.

[Peteoz]

Madison, a couple of posts later I added further information from BRP where they stated that 166ft/lbs was to be applied to “including the 2013 models”. I don’t know when the 2013 models were first released.

Regarding your question, I’m sure if it was safe to apply 166ft/lbs to earlier than 2013 models, BRP would have said so in their communication. That’s going down a whole other rathole. I’m not quite sure where you are coming from though, as I find BRP’s communication has answered the question quite clearly.....166ft/lbs for 2013 and up, and 96ft/lbs for 2012 and below.

Pete

Interesting. Due to inclusion of the phrase "on all models" I would interpret this to mean:
At some point in the year 2013, BRP decided to change the torque spec for the rear axle nut,
to 166 ft*lbs, On all Can-Am Spyders of any year.

If it was just due to the new motor, it would be simple to say "Higher torque on rear tires with the new motor." Boom, end, clear, answered.

So question from me, being a new guy. Is there a design change in the axle/axle nut area since 2010? Same part numbers? If yes, then at least it should be considered mechanically safe to apply the higher torque to the older models, no?

[QuadRAGIN]

hi guys and gals

there seems to be some confusion among both brp techs and owners as to the correct torque specs for the rear axle nut for the rt and f3. It appears that it changed from 96ft/lbs to 166ft/lbs in around 2014 (perhaps to coincide with the 1330 motor?).

The trouble is, some brp techs are telling 2015/2016 owners that the axle torque should be 96ft/lbs and are setting the torque to that when they refit the rear wheel. I am not sure if they are doing that because 96ft/lbs is the torque they have always used and are unaware of a change, or if the 2015/16 service manuals are shows the wrong setting at 166ft/lbs.

Is it possible to get a clarification from "the horses mouth", so to speak as to the correct torque specs for the rt and f3 please and when (if?) it changed from 96 to 166ft/lbs? I am a bit worried that some are using 96 when we should be using 166, which may cause issues down the track.

Regards,
pete

It actually is 166Ft/LBS

[Peter Aawen]

don't do it you will strip your axle

Check the date Quad, you're replying to a thread that was started waaaayyyy back in 2017 & last posted to back in 2018! . Aaaand from fairly early on, the thread discussion back then proceeds to mention people choosing to use lower torque limits and lower torque anyway.... . So if anyone was ever gonna do it, their axle threads would've probably been stripped something like 3-4 years ago & we probably would've heard about it already!

So, note for the future - it always pays to read the date on the first post in a thread, then at least skim read thru the thread & check the date on the last few posts in it before even thinking about replying to or extending the discussion on the thread. . Besides, answering something that's already been discussed, answered, and acted upon some years/a long time ago isn't really all that likely to help the person who asked the question or too many of the original posters!

[Peteoz]

Yes, that issue is long past, Quad. Even techs with limited knowledge know about and are using the correct torque for the 14+ models…… p.s, just for someone who reads your comment above, it is actually 166 +/- 15

Pete

[CloverHillCrawler]

yea what they said...