Digital temp and fuel

[heyharris1]

So I read if I unplug the temp and fuel it will come up on the LCD screen. Why did they make it that way and not just make it an option to show both. So my next question then is it worth it to pull those gauges and add something useful like volt gauge and nave oil pressure or USB charging ports.

Jim

[ARtraveler]

The subject has come up a few times. When the gauges first came out 2010 (RT-uplines), the gas gauge needle would wobble all over the place. Had the same issue on the 2011.

The "fix" was to unplug and let the digital ones pop on. Since all Spyders were wired for digital, I guess it was easier for BRP to NOT undo the system. A serendipitous situation for those needing a fix. Many people then replaced the gas/temp gauges with something else.

My 2014, has the same gauges and the gas gauge is rock solid. Never felt the need to change that one out.

Now that you have the background, it's going to be your choice whether or not to change yours out.

Let us know.

[Chupaca]

They have improved on the guages but if you want additional guages or charging ports/power supply this is a great option. The digital guages are still better. Your call...

[Easy Rider]

So my next question then is it worth it to pull those gauges and add something useful like volt gauge and nave oil pressure or USB charging ports.

Most voltage gauges are useless; the analog ones with a needle, that is. To be useful, it needs to be digital with at least one digit after the decimal point.

USB ports can be put somewhere else......like in the trunk where there already is a 12 V socket (in some models).

I bet if you do a search on here for gauge or gauges, a lot of information and opinions will pop up.

[Bob Denman]

I guess that it comes down to what information you may want to add to your bike...
Perhaps in this day and age: a Digital Dow Jones Average LED graph could be useful...
And a warp speed indicator in the other pod!


(in all seriousness: a 12 volt power port in one, and a USB port in the other; would seem pretty useful!

[tnhoover]

So I have had the Gage's removed on my 2010 RTS for about 5 years now. I replaced both gauges with ram mounts, one for my phone and one for my GPS.

[Docster]

The subject has come up a few times. When the gauges first came out 2010 (RT-uplines), the gas gauge needle would wobble all over the place. Had the same issue on the 2011.

The "fix" was to unplug and let the digital ones pop on. Since all Spyders were wired for digital, I guess it was easier for BRP to NOT undo the system. A serendipitous situation for those needing a fix. Many people then replaced the gas/temp gauges with something else.

My 2014, has the same gauges and the gas gauge is rock solid. Never felt the need to change that one out.

Now that you have the background, it's going to be your choice whether or not to change yours out.

Let us know.

A FEW times??

I would encourage folks to first "Search" and read through the forums. Bookmark the 'How To" threads and videos creating a reference library for themselves

[Bob Denman]

If we can withstand all of the tire/oil/octane/helmet/speed limit/mesh jacket threads: what's wrong with one like this?
Lighten up! Your colon will thank you!

[ARtraveler]

A FEW times??

I would encourage folks to first "Search" and read through the forums. Bookmark the 'How To" threads and videos creating a reference library for themselves

I can understand where you are coming from. Not everyone new is aware of the vast search engine and the large library of subjects that have been accumulated over ten years plus.

I usually make mention of the above, but answer the persons question and try to be welcoming and friendly.

Sometimes, telling others to go search and not ask dumb questions, comes off as a bit harsh.

[11rtLTD]

So I have had the Gage's removed on my 2010 RTS for about 5 years now. I replaced both gauges with ram mounts, one for my phone and one for my GPS.

Do you have a link to the ram mount that fits in the gauge hole (stop laughing, I'm serious)

[tnhoover]

I couldn't find one so I made my own. Bought a RAM mount ball with a round bottom like this http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-202U. Then I cut 2 round pieces out of some metal flashing slightly bigger than the hole in the dash where I had removed the gage. If drilled 4 holes through the metal circles I had made that aligned with the holes in the RAM mount. I had the dash cover removed from the bike and I "sandwiched" the metal circles I had cut on each side over the hole where the gage was and ran 4 screws through the RAM mount and both pieces of metal put washers and bolts on the backside and applied some loc-tite. Put the dash cover back on the bike. Oh, I also spray painted the metal circle black before installing. Been holding up fine for 5+ years now. Wish I would have taken pics when I did it.

[Buckeye Bleau]

Your post states that you have a 2012, I have a 2013, we both have a very bad analog fuel guage. When I changed mine out to digital, I got a LOT more miles between fuel stops than before, it is by far the best thing I did for the Spyder. I bought a digital volt guage on EBay and put a dual USB on the other side.

Joe

[11rtLTD]

I couldn't find one so I made my own. Bought a RAM mount ball with a round bottom like this http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-202U. Then I cut 2 round pieces out of some metal flashing slightly bigger than the hole in the dash where I had removed the gage. If drilled 4 holes through the metal circles I had made that aligned with the holes in the RAM mount. I had the dash cover removed from the bike and I "sandwiched" the metal circles I had cut on each side over the hole where the gage was and ran 4 screws through the RAM mount and both pieces of metal put washers and bolts on the backside and applied some loc-tite. Put the dash cover back on the bike. Oh, I also spray painted the metal circle black before installing. Been holding up fine for 5+ years now. Wish I would have taken pics when I did it.

That is what I've been looking for! Perfect thing to replace those useless gauges! Thank you

[stevencovert]

The first thing I did on my new 2016 RTS was to pull the gauges and install one cigarette charger port and one dual USB from one of the site sponsors. Nice aluminum construction. There is no power up front to charge your phone, or plug helmets into for long rydes. Then I installed Pierres X-Grip (replacing one of the four handlebar screws) to hold my phone. I start up Prime Music and the GPS and I'm off. On the RT's - on the right side (as you sit on it) ties to the gas tank is an 1/8" jack for the GPS, I just ran an extension up to the little plastic cover on the handlebars to plug into the phone.

You can also get custom if you want, these are plastic fills that you can drill or cut to mount anything:
https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...FQYkhgodNA0PzA

They need a dab of silicon on the backside to stay seated well, as they are plastic.

[pegasus1300]

Pierre at Can Am Spyder Accessories also has a very nice dual USB port that fits in the empty hole where the switches are on the RT for heated grips,driving lights,etc. It goes right in the middle and I ran the power wires from the light power wire for the gas gauge to power it. Very simple installation.

[tnhoover]

That is what I've been looking for! Perfect thing to replace those useless gauges! Thank you

So if you do this don't be like me. Take pictures and share

[Bob231]

I have a 2013 RT in which I have replaced the analog gauges with a volt meter and a clock so I can utilize the digital temp and fuel gauges in the display. All was working fine fo the past six years until now. The top bar on the fuel gage which should indicate the tank is full no longer lights when the tank is full. Could this be a malfunctioning LED or fuel sensor? If there is a way to calibrate this gauge I can't find instructions on how do so.
Thanks

[Bangorbob]

Bob231, I have a 2016 RTS and have the same problem with the top bar on the fuel guage. I am going to assume (hate that word) that there is no real explanation, or at least no one has explained it.

Tnhoover, thanks for the info on the RAM mount. I am tired of my phone being scorched in the glove compartment.

[pegasus1300]

j as to the top bar on your gauge not working anymore that is probably your sending unit not working properly. I have the same issue on my 2012. I know it is there, I drive by my trip meter and the GPS fuel warning and don't worry about it. Probably more trouble then I want to go thru to fix it.

[Peter Aawen]

I have a 2013 RT in which I have replaced the analog gauges with a volt meter and a clock so I can utilize the digital temp and fuel gauges in the display. All was working fine fo the past six years until now. The top bar on the fuel gage which should indicate the tank is full no longer lights when the tank is full. Could this be a malfunctioning LED or fuel sensor? If there is a way to calibrate this gauge I can't find instructions on how do so.
Thanks

While it could be a malfunctioning LED, it's waaayyyyy more likely that it's a dodgy fuel sender unit - at best the 2013's & earlier had 'problematic & notoriously vague' fuel gauges & low fuel warning lights, largely courtesy of the dodgy fuel sender units; while at worst they weren't much real use at all! You've actually done really well if yours has worked even just sorta OK for the last 6 years, most didn't 'work well' EVER!!

There is no easy way to recalibrate the gauge, low fuel warning light, or the sender unit; and most efforts to fix this sort of problem usually end up requiring the fuel tank to be removed and the fuel sender to be repaired or replaced, neither of which are really easy tasks, and neither of which ever really produce lasting improvements if you use BRP replacement parts - altho some owners have reported much greater success by replacing the sender with an a/mkt unit! But the easiest 'fix' is to simply use the fuel gauge & the low fuel warning light as nothing more than 'vague indicators' of your fuel state, and instead rely on a trip meter reset every time you refill teamed with your ongoing calculations of how many miles per gallon you get in order to give yourself an idea of what range you might expect from each tank of gas! BUT, be warned, these engines with their modern fuel injection systems REALLY don't like being run too low on gas, let alone ever letting them run dry, as they use the gas left in the tank as both lubricant and cooling for the fuel pump and the entire injection system!

So you REALLY don't want to run out of gas or even let the tank get much lower than saaay, a half gallon or so at the very least remaining in the tank - any lower than that and you WILL be causing irreversible microscopic damage to the fuel pump &/or injectors/injection system - damage that may not cause any significant issues immediately; but once started, that damage is cumulative & irreversible, so eventually it will reveal itself in a loss of power, performance, &/or fuel economy, if not in a more catastrophic & potentially expensive failure.... so why risk it?!? Do what most motorcyclists have always done, simply use your trip meters, reset one every time you fe-fuel, work out your average gas milage, and try to ALWAYS leave yourself enough of a safety margin that you NEVER run too low on gas!