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Breaks
How quickly should my 2011 RSSE5 stop? Should I be able to lock up the tires when I press hard on the pedal? Is there pedal adjustment? I have Sealboards and when I press on the pedal I can bottom out without a lot of pressure.
Thanks for feed back!
Last edited by Paul A; 08-20-2017 at 04:16 PM.
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Very Active Member
You should be able to bring it to a stop probably quicker than anything behind you could stop! Also, shouldn't be able to lock the brakes because of the ABS system. Might need to have them checked.
On the road again...........and forever young!
2013 RT-S SE 5
Yesterday is a cancelled check.
Tomorrow is a promissory note.
Today is cash.......spend it wisely.
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Very Active Member
Hummmmmm..!
Now are we talking how fast it will stop for a break, or how fast it will stop when you hit the brakes... sorry...😔 ABS keeps you from locking up the brakes and going into a slide. You may feel some pulsing but you should stop very fast regardless. On occasion a tire may slide on a slick surface. Now if your foot is coming in contact with the floorboard you should adjust or block the lever. Some floorboard break away (drop down) to give you full range seal boards don't.
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Breaks
I'm concerned because I was following my wife the other day. She rides the Spyder I ride a cruiser. We were coming to a stop it didn't seem overly fast but wife felt like she wouldn't stop soon enough and took evasive action swerving into an open lane. I thought maybe I needed to replace the break pads but when I checked them they are about 3mm. Maybe I better have the shop look at it.just to be safe.
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Active Member
*BRAKES
Sorry but i just cant help myself. Brakes.
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Thanks!
Thanks, LOL I deserve that! Where's spell check when you need it!
I bit the bullet and replaced the rear pads. I used to do most of my own work on cars. It seems as I get older my confidence deserts me. I have to talk myself into things I used to run head first into. And damn the consequences.
My wife says that's wisdom. I'm surprised. The pads still had almost 3mm on them. But replacing them sure made a difference. I now have plenty of pedal, and when I mash on the brakes the nose goes down and she comes to a stop. I may have only needed to add brake fluid but now I know what a little bit of pad thickness can do. I did read that for the first few hundred stop go easy. The pads need to seat. Well next I'll do the front Pads.
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Active Member
I have seal boards on my 2012 rts. Mine bottom out and I cut a block from a 2by4 about 13/4 inches no more problem.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Paul A
Thanks, LOL I deserve that! Where's spell check when you need it!
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Paul, wrong answer. That's where you say......."gee, I'm going to have to turn off that bloody predictive text. Every time I type in "brak" it puts in "break"....
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
BRAKING ISSUE
Originally Posted by Paul A
Thanks, LOL I deserve that! Where's spell check when you need it!
I bit the bullet and replaced the rear pads. I used to do most of my own work on cars. It seems as I get older my confidence deserts me. I have to talk myself into things I used to run head first into. And damn the consequences.
My wife says that's wisdom. I'm surprised. The pads still had almost 3mm on them. But replacing them sure made a difference. I now have plenty of pedal, and when I mash on the brakes the nose goes down and she comes to a stop. I may have only needed to add brake fluid but now I know what a little bit of pad thickness can do. I did read that for the first few hundred stop go easy. The pads need to seat. Well next I'll do the front Pads.
As the pads wear down adding some fluid will compensate for this .... Do you think it's possible She just wasn't pressing down hard enough.............personally I don't think the Spyder pedal feel..... equals what my toyt feels like for the same braking force ..... Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 08-21-2017 at 06:29 AM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Paul A
How quickly should my 2011 RSSE5 stop? Should I be able to lock up the tires when I press hard on the pedal? Is there pedal adjustment? I have Sealboards and when I press on the pedal I can bottom out without a lot of pressure.
Thanks for feed back!
Your pedal should never bottom out. If you mean the sealboards stop the pedal from being fully depressed that is your problem. You need a spacer under your pedal to give you more room. I thought the sealboards came with one.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
As others have said. Your pedal should NEVER bottom out. That is a big hazard.
If you had 3mm of lining left, installing new pads should not have made any difference either in stopping distance or in pedal position (unless the pads were glazed). Glazed pads will not stop as well and require a lot more pressure to get less than desired results.
There are aftermarket brake pads and brake rotors that will improve stopping distance over the OEM components.
Last edited by BajaRon; 08-21-2017 at 08:44 AM.
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