Potential Oil Change Dilemma......

[newbert]

I just broke 1500 miles on my new 2016 F3-T. At the pace I'm racking up the miles, I expect to hit 3000 in mid-September or so. Riding season here goes into perhaps mid-November, and I could have over 4000 miles on it by then.

The first oil change/service is due at 3000 miles. I've also read that it's a good idea to change the oil just before winter storage (when I'll probably be at 4000-4500 miles). I really don't want to pay for two oil changes only 1500 miles apart. (I'm NOT a DIYer.)

So I'm open to recommendations on how to deal with this dilemma. When would you recommend that I get that first oil change/service?

Thanks!

[2dogs]

I just broke 1500 miles on my new 2016 F3-T. At the pace I'm racking up the miles, I expect to hit 3000 in mid-September or so. Riding season here goes into perhaps mid-November, and I could have over 4000 miles on it by then.

The first oil change/service is due at 3000 miles. I've also read that it's a good idea to change the oil just before winter storage (when I'll probably be at 4000-4500 miles). I really don't want to pay for two oil changes only 1500 miles apart. (I'm NOT a DIYer.)

So I'm open to recommendations on how to deal with this dilemma. When would you recommend that I get that first oil change/service?

Thanks!

Yes, do the 3k oil change like it calls for at 3k. There's a reason for that and you'll have many happy miles afterward.

[JayBros]

Have the dealership do the 3K service so all the other "new bike" checks can be done. Then play it by ear to see how much more riding you are going to get this year. If it turns out to be low mileage you could just change the oil before winter layup and don't worry about the filter. OTOH, if we're really headed to Pandemonium as some folks contend, you might be able to ride all winter. I personally would not want to lay up my Spyder for the winter without a fresh crankcase/oil tank full of oil. The calendar just hit you wrong this year in your hopefully long life as a Spyder owner.

[ARtraveler]

Good advice in post #3 above. With the 9,000 mile (or once a year) service intervals, I am thinking that after the 3,000 miles service--another service at 4,000 is not needed. But...if in doubt, change it out. No harm will be done except another $350 or so.

[JayBros]

But...if in doubt, change it out. No harm will be done except another $350 or so.

Egad! Is that Alaska price for an oil change?

If you have a T25 and a T45 Torx bit, a 6mm Allen wrench and large adjustable wrench or pair of channel lock pliers (a 36mm socket is the ideal tool) and two opposing thumbs you can do an oil change on an F3. Lamonster has a very concise short video on how to it.

[Bob Denman]

Do the oil change at 3,000 miles, and let it stay in the bike until the next suggested interval hits.
(One year, or 9,300 miles...)
It's not going to harm the engine a bit!

[ARtraveler]

Egad! Is that Alaska price for an oil change?

If you have a T25 and a T45 Torx bit, a 6mm Allen wrench and large adjustable wrench or pair of channel lock pliers (a 36mm socket is the ideal tool) and two opposing thumbs you can do an oil change on an F3. Lamonster has a very concise short video on how to it.

Unfortunately, yes. Oil change/filter and general checkover. The dealer is currently charging $110 an hour--down from $130 last year. My Vulcan was done by the same dealer for less than $100--oil and filter included. I used to change out the oil/filter on all my cars and motorcycles--but I cannot do that any more. I am at the "mercy" of the dealer now.

[JayBros]

I am at the "mercy" of the dealer now.

OUCH!!!

[BajaRon]

Do the oil change at 3,000 miles, and let it stay in the bike until the next suggested interval hits.
(One year, or 9,300 miles...)
It's not going to harm the engine a bit!

Believe me. I try not to agree with Bob anymore than absolutely necessary! It just encourages him!

But I have to say Bob gives good advise here. This is not your father's oil. Modern oils are just fine with the scenario you find yourself in.

[Bruiser37]

Have the dealership do the 3K service so all the other "new bike" checks can be done. Then play it by ear to see how much more riding you are going to get this year. If it turns out to be low mileage you could just change the oil before winter layup and don't worry about the filter. OTOH, if we're really headed to Pandemonium as some folks contend, you might be able to ride all winter. I personally would not want to lay up my Spyder for the winter without a fresh crankcase/oil tank full of oil. The calendar just hit you wrong this year in your hopefully long life as a Spyder owner.

Can Am recommends after normal first 3,000 break in miles oil & filter changes oil/filter change cycle jumps to ~ 9,300 miles. This is crap especially for a high rev Rotax 1,300 engine. High quality 100% synthetic oil, Amsoil, Mobile1 motorcycle, Castrol etc oil should be changed every 5,000 miles. I elected to pay for oil/filter changes and other Spyder recommended 9,300 mi service intervals. I do an in-between my self with Synthetic Amsoil oil change at every 5,000 mi. I would never go 10k between oil changes especially in high rev engines.

[Highwayman2013]

Can Am recommends after normal first 3,000 break in miles oil & filter changes oil/filter change cycle jumps to ~ 9,300 miles. This is crap especially for a high rev Rotax 1,300 engine. High quality 100% synthetic oil, Amsoil, Mobile1 motorcycle, Castrol etc oil should be changed every 5,000 miles. I elected to pay for oil/filter changes and other Spyder recommended 9,300 mi service intervals. I do an in-between my self with Synthetic Amsoil oil change at every 5,000 mi. I would never go 10k between oil changes especially in high rev engines.

I'm going to use oil analysis to determine when to change the oil in my F3L.

[newbert]

Do the oil change at 3,000 miles, and let it stay in the bike until the next suggested interval hits.
(One year, or 9,300 miles...)
It's not going to harm the engine a bit!

Hmmm... That goes against advice that some have posted here, but it would make things a bit easier, for sure.

On the question of winter storage, many here have also recommended applying a trickle charge to the battery while being stored over the winter. This will be my first winter as a Spyder owner, so this is all new to me. What do you recommend? (My Spyder will be in an un-heated garage.)

Thanks.

[Highwayman2013]

When I did winter storage, I checked the strength of the antifreeze, put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank(full), and hooked up a Battery Tender Junior.

[nhoj]

... On the question of winter storage, many here have also recommended applying a trickle charge to the battery while being stored over the winter. ... (My Spyder will be in an un-heated garage.)

Remove the battery and store it inside your home. Charge it 2 or 3 times over the winter. If you have to leave it in the Spyder disconnect the Negative terminal and charge it 2 or 3 times over the winter.

[Bob Denman]

Believe me. I try not to agree with Bob anymore than absolutely necessary! It just encourages him!

But I have to say Bob gives good advise here. This is not your father's oil. Modern oils are just fine with the scenario you find yourself in.

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[BajaRon]

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Sorry Bob. I experienced a cruel moment. It won't happen again.....