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  1. #1
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    Default Oil low dealer, closed, what engine oil can I use?

    Like to go for a ride today, but my oil is low and thedealer that I buy brp oil from is closed. Anybody know of a different brand of oilI can use for now?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Well....

    If you know what oil you have in the spyder , full synthetic or synthetic blend, then you can find a motorcycle oil at your autoparts or better at any bike shop. Your manual has the specs needed for your motor, trans and clutch...Good idea to have a quart on hand at al times just for such occasions. Be sure that you measured the oil level correctly....warm engine to operating temp get to a level location and then check oil. If 1330 they do not use oil if the 998 they do but as long as you are between the add and full your good to go....
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  3. #3
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    Default

    The manual says to use 5w-40 semi-synthetic, APi sl,sj,sh orsg. And not to use api sm but most of the oil I find has api sn what the heckis this.

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    Very Active Member BoilerAnimal's Avatar
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    Default

    Available at Walmart, Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, NAPA or other car parts stores. If you go to Walmart, most places have it in the motorcycle section, not with the other car oils.

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...Quart/16777818
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  5. #5
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    Looks like any oil that is the 5w-40 or 10w-40 synthetic, that is 4t and good for a wet clutch should be ok

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    Make sure you are properly checking the oil level. The engine must be at operating temperature to get an accurate reading. If you have a 1330 it would be unusual for it to be low on oil.
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  7. #7
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    Tell me about it, I have a 998 and I check the oil when itis cold , the oil just touches the dipstick. Then I went for a ride came back and check the dip stick on hot oil andit is at the full mark. This stuff really expands when it is hot. But back tothe oil problem I think I can use Castro power 1 rs racing 4t oil 5w - 40. I wouldlike to change from BRP to some other brand of oil. To me I think the BRP oilis not that good I look at my oil that has 4000 miles on it and it is darkbrown and dirty, maybe because it is a synthetic blend?

  8. #8
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default THE OIL YOU GOT

    Quote Originally Posted by Ubreal View Post
    Looks like any oil that is the 5w-40 or 10w-40 synthetic, that is 4t and good for a wet clutch should be ok
    I have used the Valvoline 4-Tstroke full syn. in my last three oil changes ... I like it ..... Mike
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 08-07-2017 at 07:22 AM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ubreal View Post
    This stuff really expands when it is hot.
    No actually it doesn't.
    The level changes that much because of the engine design and how the oil flows and where the measurement is taken.

    And you can't judge an oil by it's color after it heats and cools a few times; some get really dark and some don't.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member 4 MARIE's Avatar
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    you don't say what you are ryding. But something about the way you
    put this to us, makes me think you may not be following the right procedure
    to CHECK your oil ? Be really sure, because an overfill is an ugly thing.
    AND if it's a 1330, I would be very certain about how you read your oil level.
    If you are 100 miles away from an oil change, and it's a little low? (below add mark)
    how about a quart of any oil the correct weight, too get you to that oil change ? like what you already have on hand probably.
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  11. #11
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Default Actually Oil does expand substantially!

    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    No actually it doesn't.
    The level changes that much because of the engine design and how the oil flows and where the measurement is taken.

    And you can't judge an oil by it's color after it heats and cools a few times; some get really dark and some don't.
    While I expect that the procedure used to check the oil might be suspect, the expansion of lubrication oils is over 3 X (times) the rate of thermal expansion of water, and easily will be 7 to 10 percent expansion if you do the math. Since engines can cause a temperature rise in oil and water of over 100 degrees C, the expansion according to the table listed can produce a .07 or 7% expansion of motor oils compared to about 2.5% expansion of water (or coolant) at the same 100 C temperature rise. Thats usually what puts the oil in the airbox if you overfill, or sometimes spits water out the overflow if the pressurized cap is exceeded and the reservoir overflows. Headspace and the volumetric design of the system and reservoirs must allow for this expansion.

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  12. #12
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    Default Oil Level

    Hi, Being new to the "Y" factor, I asked questions about the oil level, from what I understand running the motor for 30 seconds before checking the level allows the pump to scavenge what is in the sump & return it to the oil tank. I think the previous owner of mine did not do this as I had to remove 1/2 litre to get the level right!
    Anything going on in Southern UK ????? Not seen another Spyder round here yet.

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  13. #13
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    Default Oil Level

    PPS. should be checked at operating temperature!
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4 MARIE View Post
    you don't say what you are ryding.

    how about a quart of any oil the correct weight, too get you to that oil change ? like what you already have on hand probably.
    I have a '17 RT with a 1330 but had the smaller engine before and the procedure for checking the oil was almost identical.

    AND......the manual says that the range from full to low on mine is ONLY 1/2 quart.
    Even if you checked it correctly, putting in a whole quart at the low mark would make it overfilled.

  15. #15
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    This is how I check the oil, I take the bike out for a ride.When I get back I park my bike on a level ground and check the oil when it ishot. The part about running the bike for30 sec. to get the oil out of the sump I am not to clear on, do I do this procedurewhen the bike is cold or hot?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easy Rider View Post
    I have a '17 RT with a 1330 but had the smaller engine before and the procedure for checking the oil was almost identical.

    AND......the manual says that the range from full to low on mine is ONLY 1/2 quart.
    Even if you checked it correctly, putting in a whole quart at the low mark would make it overfilled.
    MY BAD... I didn't mean add a quart. sorry, if you are adding over the "full mark" ? Come on...

    The ryder that talked about oil expansion rates, etc... that is probably true, but the ryder that talked about a dry sump engine really hit the nail on the head.
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  17. #17
    Very Active Member AeroPilot's Avatar
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    Default Since you just pulled in from your ride, let it run to scavenge the sumps at idle

    . "to get the oil out of the sump I am not to clear on, do I do this procedurewhen the bike is cold or hot?"

    While you dismount and take off your gear, and maybe get a cool one from the fridge, should be enough time for the radiator fans to cycle on and off twice, signaling it's time to shut it off and take the dipstick reading within a couple of minutes. It usually takes me that long to put up my helmet and jacket and get a paper towel to help with the reading of the dipstick.
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