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  1. #1
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    Default Best ECU flash results ever for me

    Iv'e been testing ECU reflashes for the 1330 motor and the finale product is complete. But I can't up load the video as it's not a compatible?

    Here is where the finale product is at for performance.
    1. Stock 1st gear 0 to 50 mph @ 6 seconds, Flash 0 to 63 mph @ 6 seconds
    2. Stock 2nd gear roll on at 35 mph @ 6 seconds = 63 mph. flash 35 mph to 83 mph 6 seconds
    3. Stock 3rd gear roll on at 45 mph @ 6 seconds = 73 mph. flash 45 mph to 96 mph 6 seconds

    I'm probably going to take some flack, but here it is. Monster Fuel injection out of Canada specializes in ALL THINGS BRP for flashing.
    https://monsterfuelinjection.com/
    I'm testing the finale flash and trying to get 500 miles on it. All that's left is to finalize the rev limit. My test ECU is at 9,200 rpm and my RT gets there really quickly, " about 10 seconds" in the first two gears. The Monster Fuel team is considering 8,800 rpm for the rev limit as that is slightly past peak power. There is a flash form on the web page.
    Here is what you need to know, premium gas only, works well with stock exhaust, no straight open exhaust, " you have to add a Big City Thunder sound insert or Lamont's cat delete with insert, Akrapovic or Two Brother exhaust with the P1 performance tip.
    Here is what you'll get. first the video looks and sounds like a NASCAR shot of the dash. The tack needle and digital speedo are just a blurr and the sound of shifting @ 9,200 is utterly amazing. We set the stock mapping to work below 60% throttle pull and the attack mapping above. For the RT owner you can choose to stay in the stock map all day, but, get to 5,000 rpm in any gear and you'll have fantastic two up power for passing. Dump your passenger and run with the big dogs. But the best is for the F3 owner. Open the throttle anytime past 60% and you'll first notice an uptick @ 4,000 rpm. At 5,400 rpm you'll have matched your stock peak performance. At 6,200 through 9,200 You'll be the Leader of the Pack.
    Last edited by Dennis in Lodi; 07-24-2017 at 04:18 PM. Reason: correction

  2. #2
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Interesting. Watching to see where this goes. If well, Id be interested in trying it out.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  3. #3
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    Please get the video stuff figured out so that we can see what's going on...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Very Active Member taxmyzer's Avatar
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    Default video

    Please . Would like video of before and after if possible. Sounds like shipping to Canada would be a lot easier than shipping to Australia or better yet one could ride or Drive to Ontario and have it done.

    Ride safe!
    2022 Sea-T0-Sky

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    Dennis,
    What can they do for you if you want to stay within the stock rpm parameters, and fuel octane requirements?
    (Other than killing off the DESS, and tinkering with Nanny's ability to shut down all of the fun?)
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  6. #6
    Very Active Member wmh9680's Avatar
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    VVEERRYY IINNTTEERREESSTTIINNGG remember the little guy on Laugh In

    Video please Mike
    2014 RT Limited Matte Silver, Belt Guard, RT Dash Mount, Show Chrome Can-Am Spyder RT Passenger Arm Rest, Show Chrome Full Size Brake Pedal,Best shop manual, Spyder keycover with hole, Utopia drivers backrest, Showchrome trailor hitch, ShowChrome Acc Trailer Acc Rack, 2014 CA Spyder RT-RTS Master Collection-HDSv5, Airhawk Cushion, Spyderpops bumpskid, Ipod cable, Led lights, Driver Hiway pegs, Shorty Antenna, Pin Striping, ECU flash, TriAx adjustible handlebars,
    Will it ever stop--NO

  7. #7
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    Default shipping options

    Quote Originally Posted by taxmyzer View Post
    Please . Would like video of before and after if possible. Sounds like shipping to Canada would be a lot easier than shipping to Australia or better yet one could ride or Drive to Ontario and have it done.
    When a test ECU is mailed through Purolator to me in Wisconsin by 8 am, I have it in my hand the next day by 10 am. Boggles my mind. The fastest way for me has been Fed Ex ground and they have it on the 3rd day.
    As far as a video before, every stock owner has that. Just take your bike out, 3rd gear at 45 mph, open the throttle and count off six seconds as best you can Then see how fast you are going. Then compare it to my data for stock accuracy. I had to install an AFR gauge, but the times and speeds all show on the video clock for all to see.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis in Lodi View Post
    I know you're trying to sound informed. I fact, I told the owner of Monster Fuel that there will be three forum naysayers who will immediately jump on the thread. If anyone is not interested in improved performance they should stay stock. If you step up the game you have to expect to upgrade the fuel.
    Thanks!
    Since the 1330 is tuned for 91 octane, and I normally dump 93 into the tank: the fuel isn't a big issue.
    I'm on an RT, so I'm more interested in more roll-on performance. Can they tune to an intermediate level for the Touring rider?
    (Who are the three Nay-Sayers??)
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #9
    Active Member monkeyboymorton's Avatar
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    The standard mapping under 60% throttle is a good idea, that way you could use the ECO mode to always stay within normal parameters if wanted.

    I think 8800rpm sounds more than high enough and I would always want to err on the side of protecting the engine as opposed to maximium performance.
    | 2015 F3-S | Heated Grips | USB Ports | RAM X-Grip | RT Sway Bar | '2 Up' Rear Shock | SHAD Bag Kit | Oxford Aqua 50 Dry Bag | BRP Rider Backrest |

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    MBM,
    It sounds as if I might be just a bit more conservative than you are; but I feel that we're on the same page!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Interesting ....

  12. #12
    Very Active Member Rattlebars's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis in Lodi View Post
    . But I can't up load the video as it's not a compatible?

    Here is where the finale product is at for performance.
    1. Stock 1st gear 0 to 50 mph @ 6 seconds, Flash 0 to 63 mph @ 6 seconds
    2. Stock 2nd gear roll on at 35 mph @ 6 seconds = 63 mph. flash 35 mph to 83 mph 6 seconds
    3. Stock 3rd gear roll on at 45 mph @ 6 seconds = 73 mph. flash 45 mph to 96 mph 6 seconds

    What's not compatible? Upload to you tube & insert the video link into this button.


    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Rattlebars; 07-08-2017 at 12:23 PM.
    2016 F3-T SE6 Roadster , Extended brake pedal for which I drilled out the brake rod yolk to lower it and added spacers to lift it slightly Black/Grey

  13. #13
    Active Member nealperkins's Avatar
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    OK guys, who's first?
    It may work great, I've often wondered why my jetski had 255hp (now 300hp).
    2016 F3T Limited
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  14. #14
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    I don't understand.
    You say you need to modify the exhaust to reflash the ECU.
    How much of the performance enhancement is from the reflash, and how much is from the exhaust modifications ?

    Sounds a lot like diet pills. If you take diet pills and eat sensibly, you lose weight, but you also lose weight if you just eat sensibly.

    Speaking of eating sensibly, I think I'm off to Big W Roadside BBQ for some brisket. Can I get anybody something ?
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
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  15. #15
    Active Member nealperkins's Avatar
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    Yep. Pulled pork sandwich for me.
    2016 F3T Limited
    F4 Windshield, LaMonster backrest, headlights, foglights with rings, Long Horn mirror lights, saddle bag and fender lights, swaybar, cat bypass, Centrtonics balancers, Fobo, Baker hand and lower wings, laser alignment, Dual power plate,Givi E47 center bag, Sensa 20s, Pitbull highway riding pegs, Tricled highway lights, empty bank account

  16. #16
    Active Member nealperkins's Avatar
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    Well, that's some instant cred...
    2016 F3T Limited
    F4 Windshield, LaMonster backrest, headlights, foglights with rings, Long Horn mirror lights, saddle bag and fender lights, swaybar, cat bypass, Centrtonics balancers, Fobo, Baker hand and lower wings, laser alignment, Dual power plate,Givi E47 center bag, Sensa 20s, Pitbull highway riding pegs, Tricled highway lights, empty bank account

  17. #17
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    I'm growing more and more curious...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    I've got Monster Fuel's tuning sheet in front of me, and I've got a couple of questions:
    1.Torque Limiting & Detuning removed... does this refer to the changes that Nanny makes, or is it something else?
    2. Main Rev Limit... does this mean that we can specify exactly where we want it to be, or are there guidelines to be followed?
    3. Ignition Timing for a specified fuel octane... If I have it set for 91, and I get in a spot where only 87 is available: what happens?

    Thanks!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  19. #19
    Active Member monkeyboymorton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post

    MBM,
    It sounds as if I might be just a bit more conservative than you are; but I feel that we're on the same page!
    To be honest Bob I can't see me ever getting to 8800rpm as I rarely rev beyond 7K now, but I'd want the limiter in place to make sure.

    I too had a look at the options page and had similar questions to you. This is clearly early days and expect the tuner to have standard packages available eventually. A kind of mild, medium, hot range so those of us with little know how can just select a desired level.
    | 2015 F3-S | Heated Grips | USB Ports | RAM X-Grip | RT Sway Bar | '2 Up' Rear Shock | SHAD Bag Kit | Oxford Aqua 50 Dry Bag | BRP Rider Backrest |

  20. #20
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    If it redlines at 8,100 rpm: I'd be hard-pressed to find that part of the tachometer.
    But a bit more power for coming out of corners, climbing steep hills, or merging into traffic; would always be welcome!
    Oh! Since I'm on an RT: racing seems out of the question. (Unless they have a class for "Short Buses! )
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  21. #21
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    Are You Serious.jpg
    I learned a long time ago, that when you're tinkering around with the output of an engine: you have better ask some good questions along the way.
    "Pick it apart"? Exactly what did I ask, that makes you think that?

    I have some very good reasons for asking questions:
    I once took a 65 horsepower 432cc piston-port snowmobile engine, and built it into a 107 horsepower 513cc powerhouse.
    It was :
    bored
    Stroked
    Piped
    Ported
    The 38 Mikunis were bored out to 39.5 mm.
    To deal with the huge power increase: it required clutching and gearing changes that went way beyond what might be expected.
    The Operations Changes:
    Engine rpm was only increased from 7,800 rpm, to 8,100...
    It had to drink at least 91 octane fuel: it didn't like 87 at all.
    I had to let the engine warm up completely; before trying to take off on the sled...

    Basically; the required changes were not psrticularly onerous, and I ran that sled for 15 years!
    But I had to ask a lot of questions about that build, and I had to learn even more to tune it so that it would run the way that I had hoped.
    Last edited by Bob Denman; 07-09-2017 at 11:45 AM.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    I've got Monster Fuel's tuning sheet in front of me, and I've got a couple of questions:
    1.Torque Limiting & Detuning removed... does this refer to the changes that Nanny makes, or is it something else?
    2. Main Rev Limit... does this mean that we can specify exactly where we want it to be, or are there guidelines to be followed?
    3. Ignition Timing for a specified fuel octane... If I have it set for 91, and I get in a spot where only 87 is available: what happens?

    Thanks!

    I can answer these. I am involved in this.
    1 - yes. Torque limiter is the so called "nanny". It can be reduced or removed. Normally only removed on off-road models. On-road still benefits from traction control.
    2 - yes. The only guidelines are that you will be warned, if the rpm request is too high for the engine. And questioned on what parts you will be using. Between 8100-8800 is perfectly safe. 9200 is about max. (without addressing piston, rings and valve springs)
    3 - Nothing. Its stock mapping at all lower throttle and load. 91 is recommended on the stock machine. But the ecu system has knock sensors which detect spark knock or detonation and pull timing, switch timing tables and close throttle. (steps in that order) So using less than ideal fuel is doable. Besides, damage on any engine based upon detonation will only ever occur at heavy loads / wide open throttle. If someone was to disregard there owners manual, disregard a reprogramming recommendation and run crap fuel and drive the hell out of their bike continuously.... they should not own one. If they follow the same logic as they do on a stock machine, there is no difference. But there is still the option to leave stock timing with moderate gains from everything else. Or receive best power. Or even setup for race fuel etc.
    Last edited by Spyd_Piper; 07-09-2017 at 05:17 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeyboymorton View Post
    To be honest Bob I can't see me ever getting to 8800rpm as I rarely rev beyond 7K now, but I'd want the limiter in place to make sure.

    I too had a look at the options page and had similar questions to you. This is clearly early days and expect the tuner to have standard packages available eventually. A kind of mild, medium, hot range so those of us with little know how can just select a desired level.
    Chatting with them. You give specific current modifications, what you will do in future and what fuel octane you want to run. And its custom set for your setup.
    Mild medium or hot? Not really understanding. Its common for Engine to be "so called" modified in stages. Like exhaust and filter is stage 1. Add intake system or pistons for stage 2. Cams for stage3. etc. But Monster Fi does not sell hard parts. And doesn't really believe in preset stuff. As everybody will always want or have something different. What they do is give a performance mode. They way it should be. Then will tailor it more to each user.
    Last edited by Spyd_Piper; 07-09-2017 at 05:18 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeWheels View Post
    I don't understand.
    You say you need to modify the exhaust to reflash the ECU.
    How much of the performance enhancement is from the reflash, and how much is from the exhaust modifications ?

    Sounds a lot like diet pills. If you take diet pills and eat sensibly, you lose weight, but you also lose weight if you just eat sensibly.

    Speaking of eating sensibly, I think I'm off to Big W Roadside BBQ for some brisket. Can I get anybody something ?

    I believe you mistook that. Ecu flash can be stock or modified exhaust.

    Exhaust will give you squat. You try to make more power out of the stock engine, and it will close throttle and allow the same power / torque to the rear wheel. System is a torque limiting setup. Any exhaust is just added noise. Once you allow more torque. (modify whats allowed) You first will gain what the stock engine has. And then, you will be able to make more power with hard parts / airflow modifications. .

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis in Lodi View Post
    The web page is not updated and very general to a range of products.
    The test bike is a 2015 RT with 23,000 miles on it. When I sport ride NOW I'm getting all the fun I need from 4,800 through 6,800. If your top shifting is around 7k now, You'll be matching that output power around 6k but only if you open the throttle above 60%. I can get my RT all the way up to interstate speeds just on the stock mapping. Nothing is lost and something for everyone.
    Bob, each question you asked I answered in the two different forum threads. Monster Fuel injection has built a wonderful flash and it meets the needs for all level of riding styles. You can certainly ask for custom options to tailor to you special riding styles. For me it is perfect, I can go slow and easy, set it up for a little more fun or get really crazy and blow off my friend on his Harley V-rod. .
    Now here's the info that I've been waiting for: THANKS!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Spyd_Piper View Post
    I can answer these. I am involved in this.
    1 - yes. Torque limiter is the so called "nanny". It can be reduced or removed. Normally only removed on off-road models. On-road still benefits from traction control.
    2 - yes. The only guidelines are that you will be warned, if the rpm request is too high for the engine. And questioned on what parts you will be using. Between 8100-8800 is perfectly safe. 9200 is about max. (without addressing piston, rings and valve springs)
    3 - Nothing. Its stock mapping at all lower throttle and load. 91 is recommended on the stock machine. But the ecu system has knock sensors which detect spark knock or detonation and pull timing, switch timing tables and close throttle. (steps in that order) So using less than ideal fuel is doable. Besides, damage on any engine based upon detonation will only ever occur at heavy loads / wide open throttle. If someone was to disregard there owners manual, disregard a reprogramming recommendation and run crap fuel and drive the hell out of their bike continuously.... they should not own one. If they follow the same logic as they do on a stock machine, there is no difference. But there is still the option to leave stock timing with moderate gains from everything else. Or receive best power. Or even setup for race fuel etc.
    I appreciate your VERY useful input to this discussion, and I'm REALLY starting to get interested in this product!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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