changing spark plugs on 2014 rt limited

[2loves]

anyone have step by step procedure?

[Doc - Riverside]

Go to the link below and download the service manual for $24.50.


http://brpmanuals.com/canam-spyder-manual.htm

[2loves]

thanks i have the full service manual but unable to locate spark plug removal info.

[Bob Denman]

First:Get your tools together in one place:
Chainsaw
Flame-thrower
Jaws of LIfe
A pump-action 12 gauge
and a couple of kilos of C-4...

[JayBros]

Do not forget or neglect to use the heat-sink paste, PN 420897186 on the plugs except for on the first two threads.

[SteveLaoyster]

First:Get your tools together in one place:
Chainsaw
Flame-thrower
Jaws of LIfe
A pump-action 12 gauge
and a couple of kilos of C-4...

Bob, I think you forgot alcohol. A case or 2 should help. JD or JB will work just as well. Just don't set it too close to the flame-thrower!

[Bob Denman]

Bob, I think you forgot alcohol. A case or 2 should help. JD or JB will work just as well. Just don't set it too close to the flame-thrower!

I'll Drink To That.jpg

[SteveLaoyster]

thanks i have the full service manual but unable to locate spark plug removal info.

I found getting to the ignition coils under ignition system which is under electrical system in the service manual.

Of course once you get the coils out of the way the next step would be the spark plug.

As what Jaybros said don't forget the anti-seize & some dielectric grease on the ignition coil boot is also a good idea.

Make sure the boot isn't cracked either. You don't want those pesky electrons going where they are not wanted. Good luck!

Correction, you are not to use anti-seize on spark plugs. See BajaRon's post below.

[BajaRon]

I found getting to the ignition coils under ignition system which is under electrical system in the service manual.

Of course once you get the coils out of the way the next step would be the spark plug.

As what Jaybros said don't forget the anti-seize & some dielectric grease on the ignition coil boot is also a good idea.

Make sure the boot isn't cracked either. You don't want those pesky electrons going where they are not wanted. Good luck!

Do Not Use Anti-Seize! Anti-Seize is an insulator. It helps prevent heat from traveling from the spark plug to the head. This will tend to create a heat buildup in the spark plug encourage Pre-Ignition or Knock. A very bad thing. Of course your Spyder will not allow this because the on-board computer will retard the ignition which cools the spark plug and prevents Knock. But retarding ignition reduces power and fuel mileage. Not something that you want happening either.

You want Thermal Paste. The same thing that you put on the CPU of a computer. Thermal paste promotes the transfer of heat. This is very important to allow the spark plugs to operate at the correct temperature range. Your spark plugs will last longer and work better.

Thermal Paste - NOT Anti-Seize! Anyone who tells you they are the same thing does not know what they are talking about.

[pegasus1300]

Do Not Use Anti-Seize! Anti-Seize is an insulator. It helps prevent heat from traveling from the spark plug to the head. This will tend to create a heat buildup in the spark plug encourage Pre-Ignition or Knock. A very bad thing. Of course your Spyder will not allow this because the on-board computer will retard the ignition which cools the spark plug and prevents Knock. But retarding ignition reduces power and fuel mileage. Not something that you want happening either.

You want Thermal Paste. The same thing that you put on the CPU of a computer. Thermal paste promotes the transfer of heat. This is very important to allow the spark plugs to operate at the correct temperature range. Your spark plugs will last longer and work better.

Thermal Paste - NOT Anti-Seize! Anyone who tells you they are the same thing does not know what they are talking about.

And where would one find the wonderful concoction?

[Doc - Riverside]

thanks i have the full service manual but unable to locate spark plug removal info.

Go to the Electrical System section of the manual then to subsection Ignition System. On page 5 of this section is the Paragraph entitled Ignition Coil Access. This will have you remove panels and the air box. Procedures to remove said same are located in a different section of the manual. You will find that to do anything on the Spyder you have to jump all over the place in the manual to do the job. Once the Ignition Coils are removed the plugs are exposed.

[hypurone]

And where would one find the wonderful concoction?

Post #5 has the part #....

[BajaRon]

And where would one find the wonderful concoction?

You can find small packets of Thermal paste at any computer or electronics store. Radio Shack, etc. A tiny bit is all you need. I don't know if automotive parts stores sell it now or not. Many manufacturers now call for thermal paste on spark plug threads. But most people interpret this to be anti-seize because that was the original recommendation when aluminum heads began to be used. But that was before all the high tech wizardry that now monitors virtually every aspect of the combustion process.

For those who have been wrenching for many years. You may remember all the issues we had with pre-ignition (KnocK) in days gone by. Much of it may have been because we used Anti-Seize on spark plug threads back then. Before it was figured out that anti-seize was not a good idea.

[SteveLaoyster]

Do Not Use Anti-Seize! Anti-Seize is an insulator. It helps prevent heat from traveling from the spark plug to the head. This will tend to create a heat buildup in the spark plug encourage Pre-Ignition or Knock. A very bad thing. Of course your Spyder will not allow this because the on-board computer will retard the ignition which cools the spark plug and prevents Knock. But retarding ignition reduces power and fuel mileage. Not something that you want happening either.

You want Thermal Paste. The same thing that you put on the CPU of a computer. Thermal paste promotes the transfer of heat. This is very important to allow the spark plugs to operate at the correct temperature range. Your spark plugs will last longer and work better.

Thermal Paste - NOT Anti-Seize! Anyone who tells you they are the same thing does not know what they are talking about.

Thing is, looking around on the internet I found that NGK recommends not using anything on their spark plugs because of the way they make them.

There are other arguments against using anything because of it affecting tightening torque.

I'll have get some of this special paste pn 420897186 since this is what BRP recommends. Didn't mean to mislead anyone.

Just ran across this & it makes a lot of sense.

Anti-seize compound is basically a mixture of grease and metal particles. Aluminum, copper, and zinc powders are commonly used. The way this works is that whenever you have two different metals, in this case the aluminum of the head and the steel of the spark plug shell, you can set up a battery action if there is an electrolyte between them. This is called a galvanic cell. What happens is that you get a transfer of metal that could cause the plug to effectively weld itself to the cylinder head. Putting the metal particles between the threads of the plug and the threads of the head gives the galvanic cell something to work on rather than the materials of either the head or the plug shell.

So anything that has any metal in it is not to be used. Thanks for the heads up.

[BajaRon]

Thing is, looking around on the internet I found that NGK recommends not using anything on their spark plugs because of the way they make them.

There are other arguments against using anything because of it affecting tightening torque.

I'll have get some of this special paste pn 420897186 since this is what BRP recommends. Didn't mean to mislead anyone.

I have heard the arguments against. And everyone has to decide. My feeling is that so many use Anti-Seize (which should not be used). Or, they use thermal paste but slather it on thinking more is better. (it should be a VERY thin, evenly spread application). Or, they are not careful and get it on the electrodes (which is not good). That is why BRP states not to apply the thermal paste past the last 2 threads (on the electrode end). Actually, it does not hurt to apply thermal past to every thread. But they are building in a safety factor here to be sure you don't get thermal paste on the electrode. But it's not rocket science. It is pretty easy to apply the thermal paste correctly if you just take a bit of care.

Because of these issues from those who don't know any better or are sloppy in their application. It is my opinion that NGK has decided it is better to put nothing on than to put the wrong thing on or the right thing on in a wrong way. I can imagine that KGK has gotten a great may complaints about their spark plugs when it isn't the spark plugs that are the problem.

While on the other hand. The manufacturer of the vehicle has designed the system to work most efficiently having things done a certain way. Not that I always do everything in the manner suggested by the manufacturer (if I think I can do it better) But in this case. I agree with BRP. That is why I supply both Dielectic Grease AND Thermal Paste with every Ignition Wire set (when spark plugs are purchased).

[n7wol]

Best place for thermal paste is......Radio Shack or any Electronics store. and you can get it in various sizes usually in an injector and a little goes a long long way

[Bob Denman]

bu it's getting tough to find Radio Shacks...

[BajaRon]

bu it's getting tough to find Radio Shacks...

True that! High prices and dwindling inventory are not the keys to success.

[PW2013STL]

I went to a dealer to purchase the paste and was told that it's a large tube that costs over $100. What the parts guy did was go back into the service area and he put some into a small plastic zip bag (4 changes worth) and gave that to me at no charge.

Ask your dealer if they will do that for you.

BTW the spark plugs are $20 each for a total of $60. My next change will be at 50,000 miles on the current plugs as the ones I changed at 40,000 looked great

[SteveLaoyster]

I know some thermal paste's, probably older stuff, use zinc oxide or some other oxide to help with heat transfer.

Does the stuff recommended by BRP have something like this or is it just silicon grease as I saw on ebay?

I'm just trying to see what thermal paste's can be used and trying to get educated on this up-to-date technology. Thanks.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ski-Doo-New-O...xXFU4a&vxp=mtr

[SteveLaoyster]

Best place for thermal paste is......Radio Shack or any Electronics store. and you can get it in various sizes usually in an injector and a little goes a long long way

You'll want to make sure it is capable of handling the high temperatures of the Rotax engine. The Radio Shack stuff probably isn't rated for it.

[BajaRon]

I know some thermal paste's, probably older stuff, use zinc oxide or some other oxide to help with heat transfer.

Does the stuff recommended by BRP have something like this or is it just silicon grease as I saw on ebay?

I'm just trying to see what thermal paste's can be used and trying to get educated on this up-to-date technology. Thanks.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ski-Doo-New-O...xXFU4a&vxp=mtr

Silicone grease is another name for Dielectric Grease. It goes on the spark plug boots to keep them from vulcanizing to the spark plug. Do not use this on the spark plug threads.

You'll want to make sure it is capable of handling the high temperatures of the Rotax engine. The Radio Shack stuff probably isn't rated for it.

Any decent thermal paste will work fine. Though it probably wouldn't hurt to get something like Artic Silver. It doesn't have to be special. You'd be surprised how hot CPU's get.

[Buckeye Chuck 54]

I'm an old gearhead who used to rebuild motorcycle engines. But health issues forced me to get into 3 wheels if I wanted to keep the wind in my face. I bought a BMW K1200LT that had a Hannigan trike conversion. I couldn't work on it, changing oil was about all I could do. The BMW dealer charged me over $1100 to service it. When BRP started using the 1330 engine on the RT's it was time for the change. Now I don't have to worry about adjusting valves or any other things that needed done. Although a chore, I can change my own oil, and air filter. As for spark plugs, I have no issue handing over my card and let the dealer do it for me. I have them changed every 50,000 miles or every spring, whichever comes first. These iridium plugs look new after I rode 49,000 last year. I'm thinking of increasing change intervals to 75,000. The dealer charges over $20 a plug and 2 hours labor, well worth it.
Buckeye Chuck

[2loves]

Have been messing with this challenge for days. AFTER I GET THIRD SPARK PLUG CHANGED NEVER EVER WILL I TAKE ON THIS TASK AGAIN. Old plugs didn't look all that bad after 30k.

[SteveLaoyster]

Have been messing with this challenge for days. AFTER I GET THIRD SPARK PLUG CHANGED NEVER EVER WILL I TAKE ON THIS TASK AGAIN. Old plugs didn't look all that bad after 30k.

That's not good that you had issues getting them changed out.

Did you use any of the suggestions made by me or Bob above?

The problem with our suggestions is that they probably would have made matters worse.